ETTR summary plus a real example

Last Update: 21 January 2023

Much is said and written about ETTR (Exposing to the Right). Enough to believe most photographers see the value of using ETTR. Unfortunately, this is not the case. The challenge is YouTube talking heads and forum experts continuously promote wild statements, resulting in a powerful technique being lost in a cloud of confusion. See this article for more about modern marketing.

We are looking at an example of using ETTR in this article. If you like to see more information, go to this article. Also, see this article discussing the 2-Step Exposure Technique.

Olympus EM1 II with Leica 25mm f1.4 lens - ISO6400 f7.1 1/13Sec w ETTR - Raw file converted in WorkSpace and edited in Photoshop

Think of ETTR as a process of determining the best possible exposure. We know fast shutter speeds are used for sports photography and large apertures for isolating subjects. Sports photographers prefer good light and/or higher ISOs. We also know an underexposed sensor means more image noise.

The key to top image quality is a Saturated Sensor and

ETTR is one of many exposure techniques.

What is Exposing to the Right (ETTR)?

ETTR is a basic process of adjusting the shutter speed and aperture to ensure more reflected light on the image sensor. The key is the sensor. The ISO setting does not control the reflected light reaching the sensor. We know camera sensors perform best when fully exposed. See this article for an illustration showing the different terminologies like luminance and reflected light.

What is the role of the ISO function?

The ISO function is another variable in the exposure formula used in the camera. It's important to remember the ISO setting does not control the reflected light reaching the image sensor. Use Auto ISO for general use and Manual ISO for critical applications. Use a fixed ISO for challenging applications and the shutter speed and aperture to control the reflected light to the sensor. 

For example, select an appropriate ISO for use with the ambient light in buildings and adjust the shutter speed and aperture to find the correct exposure settings for the sensor. Study this article for more information about the ISO function, shutter speed, and aperture.

The most important technique for improving image quality is to know the ISO. 
Avoid the auto ISO setting and learn how to manually set the ISO.

What are the benefits of ETTR?

When you clear away the talk about photons, pixels, and sensor size, then one fact remains. The average consumer camera is designed to record more tonal data in the highlights. That means the camera captures 2x more tonal data for each +1EV of ETTR. The image signal SNR improves with a more saturated image sensor. Image noise increases with an underexposed sensor.

How does one apply ETTR?

ETTR is not meant for every situation. For example, I often use an Exposure Shift of +0.3EV to increase my average exposure. I prefer Aperture Mode and a fixed ISO of 64 or 100 during the day. I will up my exposure settings with another stop in the late afternoon or blue-hour photography.

Assume you have a critical shot and like to have top image quality. The first step is to manually select the ISO. Use the histogram and increase your exposure with the Aperture and shutter Speed.

Tip:- Keep the ISO fixed

Olympus EM1 II screen

Olympus cameras use an Exposure Headroom of up to 1EV. This is why the histogram is less than optimally exposed in Auto Mode. The exposure meter is linked to the exposure headroom. ETTR helps us to manually bridge this exposure headroom. It is critical to practice with your exposure settings. For example, one can increase the exposure by up to 2EV in a blue sky behind the subject. In other situations, it's only possible to safely increase the exposure with 0.5EV. The camera's exposure meter will show an overexposure with ETTR, and the histogram will simply move to the right.

Study the image below. I upped the exposure with 1EV. There was enough dynamic range headroom available to increase the exposure. This is how much the camera meter underexposed the sensor.

Olympus EM1 II screen

General comments

Photographers are told ETTR is only applicable to the camera's base ISO. This is incorrect because the sensor is designed to capture more tonal data in the highlights, irrespective of the ISO value. Promoters will say the dynamic range decreases at higher ISO values. The solution is to use your histogram, the exposure meter, and other visual features to prevent unwanted clipping.

Tip:- The ISO effectively adjusts image brightness and not exposure.

In terms of exposure, the following is critical:-

• Only the Shutter and Aperture determine the reflected light reaching the sensor
• The ISO function only amplifies the image signal coming from the image sensor

The samples and the info below were taken from the first image in the article:-

Conclusion

Olympus cameras generally underexpose the sensor. This is the main reason for the loss of image details and more shadow noise at higher ISOs. Knowing Olympus cameras, we know it's OK to overexpose the sensor with up to 1EV. The key is to monitor your histogram at higher ISOs and shutter speeds, no matter what ISO you need for that next winning image...

How does ISO invariance impact ETTR? Not much because consumer cameras are designed to capture more image data in the highlights. This will not change shortly.

For more on ISO Invariance, read this article.

Below is a description of how to use ETTR

To optimize your camera exposure, apply this simple method:-

1. Fix the ISO to the value you need (Go to the SCP and select the ISO)
2. Confirm the ISO is fixed in M-Mode. The next step is to set the exposure
3. Select your aperture or shutter speed (A or S mode) and check the exposure meter
4. Follow the histogram with the exposure meter on 0EV (this is 18% gray exposure)
5. The camera "auto" mode will generally select a safe or conservative exposure
6. When you see free space to the right of the histogram, increase the exposure
7. Check the histogram as the histogram moves to the right. (Do not go too far)
8. The exposure meter will show you are overexposing by a 1/3, 2/3, or 1EV
9. It's done when you are satisfied with the histogram and the exposure meter... 
10. You can now safely take your image

Your image will be overexposed. This is easy to correct in the camera or Workspace. The result is an image with less noise and more image data to work with in post-processing.

Sony A7 III with 50mm, f1.8 - ISO25600, f7.1, 1/30sec w ETTR - Raw file edited in PhotoLab 3 using PhotoLab 3 noise reduction

See this helpful video from Ron Trek. Rob has a great YouTube channel with lots of information on Olympus cameras. In this video, Rob discusses the Olympus exposure meter, the histogram, and what features we have with Olympus cameras.

Filmmaking with the EM5 II and WorkSpace

Last Update: 17 May 2020

I recently asked the question, what happened to that great filmmaking spirit that motivated so many filmmakers of old. Home moviemakers spend hours filming the ocean, animals in the zoo, and pets playing. Did that all go away when the old film role went digital? That said, it is good to see our younger generation mastering digital video recording and video editing.

Homemade movie using simple movie-making techniques and three Olympus cameras

Many photographers and some previously enthusiast filmmakers say they do not know where to start. They feel intimidated with things like digital video formats, 8K, and supercharged PC's. Many are in the dark in terms of camera settings or what additional equipment they will need. Thinking back, my own experience was the same. It was more challenging to adapt to digital video than it was to change to digital photography.

This is not good. On the one hand forum "professionals" ask for more from manufacturers and on the other hand, potential home filmmakers feel more alienated. The question is, what can we do to help photographers enjoy video recording? I believe Olympus recognized this and that is why they added basic video recording features in their mirrorless cameras and WorkSpace.

In this article, we will take a look at video recording, video equipment, and how to set up the camera. We will study WorkSpace, and how to edit videos in WorkSpace. The aim is that readers learn the basics of how to create and edit videos for home use, YouTube, and Instagram?

What equipment do you need?

Looking at the Camera

Any of the current MFT cameras are good for video. The previous range is also good for video. This includes the EM1 II, EM5 II, Pen F, EM10 II, and the EPL8. That said one can go back to the Pen EP3, the EM5, and the EM1 and create great videos.

Any of the lenses below are good for video:-

• Olympus 12-50mm EZ Kit Lens - great for filming, benefit, the motorized zoom
• Olympus 14-42mm EZ Kit Lens - Small zoom range but with motorized zoom
• Olympus 30mm or 60mm Macro for close-ups or detail views
• Olympus 14-42mm Kit Lens - not EZ. The 2nd & 3rd generation MSC type
• Olympus Pancake Lenses - any of the fixed f1,8 focal length lenses are perfect
• Olympus 40-150mm or the 14-150mm general zoom lenses
• Any of the Olympus Pro lenses

You will need an ND filter. Variable ND filters are more practical than having two or three fixed value ND filters. Try and select lenses with the same filter diameter. The above list with lenses (Not the Pro) ranges from 46mm, 52mm, to 58mm filter diameters.

Video quality is not measured in "image sharpness". In fact, when recording at 24 frames per second the video flow has a slight blur effect. This slight blur is often named the Cinema effect. This is one of the reasons why videographers prefer lenses with a unique film look. There are several things to look for when searching for a new video lens and they are different from what photographers would look for. Videographers are more artistically inspired, probably more than photographers.

Smallrig flash mount filming handle with LED light and mic

What else will you need for video recording? The following items are practical items, but not must-have items:-

• Camera cage or camera handle that fits onto the hot shoe (see above)
• Portable (LED) light source
• An external microphone, or use a mobile phone as a recording device
• External monitor (not the recorder type)
• Tripods and reflectors

The Smallrig "Video" handle helps when filming from a lower position or when filming close to the ground. It's also good when doing unique camera movements. Used in combination with IBIS, the video handle enables the videographer to learn more complex camera movements.

I find the more I practice, the smoother my results. In fact, with a little practice and IBIS, the home moviemaker might never need a separate gimbal. Another benefit is, all the above video options will fit onto the video handle. This is great for changing the camera from video mode to photography or vice versa.

What camera settings are needed for video recording

I used an EM5 MKII for all my video recordings and the illustrations in this article. From the camera menu, select "I. Movie". See the images below and adjust your camera to mirror the settings in the pictures below.

The following is important:-

• Work with Mode-S - Shutter Priority for filmmaking (2nd image from the left)
• Set the Noise Filter to "Standard" (4th image from the left)
• Other settings - copy all the above settings to your camera
• Select the "Movie Specification Settings" menu - Press OK & copy the settings below
• Wind Noise Reduction - Always select the best option in windy conditions

In terms of image or movie sharpness, as said filmmaking is not like photography. Don't think of image sharpness when selecting video options, think data. The compression ratio determines how much data the camera records. Keep in mind the camera records 25 or 30 fully sized jpeg images per second.

The data transferred to the SD card is huge. This is why videographers use high-speed SD cards. For example, select F (above image) if you work with an older PC. In terms of SD cards, see the EM5 II specifications listed in the user manual. As long as you stay with 1080p, the EM5 MKII specification is all you will need for all the above Olympus cameras.

The basic setting selected up to this point is to prepare the camera for video recording. With the next step, we will determine the day to day video settings. Select "Movie Mode" on the camera mode dial and press OK. Next, you will see the "Live Control" below. Use the up/down arrows to scroll up or down to the video recording format. To change the video recording format, press "Info", and with the left and right keys to select the different options displayed in the image below. 

The above video format is perfect for home video recording. This video format determines:-

• The actual file compression rate SF or F (data compression or volume data)
• Frame rate (typically 25p for Europe and 30p for the US or cinema is 24p)
• Clip Recording Time (If you new to video, start with clips, its easy and works well)
• Slow-speed and high-speed recording is great for recording emotion
• Check the video format: 1080p and MOV (this should be visible in the selection)

Your camera is now ready for video recording. Similar to the SCP screen, "Live Control" offers quick access to important video settings. With Live Control, you can adjust the frame rate, change the clip recording time, select the recording speed (standard, slow or fast speed), and adjust the compression ratio from F to SF or vice versa. To disable the clips or slow/fast functions, select "Off".

Scroll up or down to activate or deactivate things like the microphone, and Picture Modes. Study the "video recording" screen below and you will see that Olympus added a few more interesting video effects at the bottom of the screen. You will find more on those in the user's manual.

Tip:- When using the camera digital zoom, change to MF. That will prevent the AF from hunting.

General video recording Tips and Techniques

A typical social media video should not be more than 4 minutes. In fact, one of the Instagram video options is only 60 seconds. People's average web attention span is between 2 and 5 minutes. In fact, I was watching a video and the presenter said the attention span is the swipe of a thumb, think of that! One can set the camera clip duration from 1, 2, 4, to 8 seconds. The aim is to record a collection of video clips related to the same storyline. The next step is to combine these clips in a storyline (video) with WorkSpace.

Press the Info button until you see the view below on your camera. Olympus cameras and WorkSpace offer basic "editing" functions. It's important to get the clip right in the camera. The first step is to set the shutter speed, to 1/50 or 1/60 depending on the frame rate (25p/24p or 30p). This is referred to as the 180-degree shutter angle. (Search my favorite videos page information on shutter angle)

With Shutter Priority selected, the camera is now in full Auto mode and will automatically select the aperture and ISO. When outside in sunny conditions, the camera will need higher shutter speeds. The challenge is the shutter speed should stay fixed at 1/50th or 1/60th. This is why we have ND filters. ND filters are used to control the amount of light reaching the sensor (exposure). Use the histogram and adjust the variable ND filter to control the final exposure.

To plan your movie or "walk my dog" report, see the points below:-

• Introduction - What can people expect (2 seconds Title or walking shoes & dog)
• The story - the story consisting of the different elements described below
• The closing - Text like "The End" or a short clip of the dog "resting" 

Use the following techniques to build the story:-

• Show an overview shot of the event, venue, or situation (slow panning movements)
• Find & record detail - zooming in, macro or close up's, focus on subjects or people
• Look for emotional moments - slow motion, close up facial shots, and/or animals

Tip:- Some Olympus cameras have a 120fps slow-motion option. Some are 720p and others 1080p. We selected 1080p for his article. That means the 720p options will not be a good fit.

See this interesting article with 7 tips on camera movements.

Additional comments and ideas

• Study YouTube videos for ideas on how to move the camera - practice & apply
• Configure the camera direction keys to control electric zoom on Oly EZ lenses
• Practice using the camera special effects (Picture Modes, Filters, Monochrome)
• Practice camera movements, working with/without the Camera Handle and IBIS
• Plan ahead, think what the final video/project will look like before recording
• Practice controlling available light using LED sources, reflectors, and flashes
• Home filmmakers do not really need Log Profiles and/or special flat profiles
• As you grow more advanced in editing, then 4K and Log Profiles are great
• Color Grading - when starting with video, Auto WB is perfectly OK and safe
• Study the Users Manual (P78-83) when it's your first Olympus video project

What you don't need

• Running in and out the camera screen to check your camera CAF
• 4K, 6K, or 8K to create great videos - 1080p or FHD is perfectly OK
• The lowest noise, highest DR, and fastest AF or the best EVF
• The best sharpest lens on the market - filming is not like photography
• Fact is, with practice Olympus cameras will deliver amazing recordings
• Panning the camera fast from left and right to test "Rolling Shutter" 

The GH1 is a classic and capable of producing great results - selling for +/- $65

Recording video clips and managing them in the camera

Follow the steps below when recording your first video clip:-

• Select the camera Movie Mode on the mode dial
• Use a storyline to help you identify which clips to record
• Fit a fixed or variable ND filter to the lens
• Set the shutter speed to 1/50th for 25p/24p or 1/60th for 30p
• Adjust the final exposure using the ND filter and check the histogram
• Select the "Clip" duration and recording speed
• Check IBIS plus digital stabilization for video is "ON" (MS1) 
• Press the "Red" recording button to start & stop the recording

While recording, you will see a small "clip" timer at the bottom right of the camera screen. When the clip is done the camera will automatically switch to the screen below.

Press the down button and follow the steps below. You can also press the Up button to review the clip. It's better to first go to the step below and review the clip later. The reason is when you review the clip first, you will not have an option to go back to the step below.

The above two images show the current projects and timelines in the camera. The first view you see is the view on the left after pressing the down arrow.

With the view on the left, you can remove clips from the timeline or start new projects. It's possible to work with multiple projects. One can move clips to the left or right on the timeline or up to "Create a New Project". One can also "Remove the Clip". The image on the right shows 2 projects. When done press OK.

Now you ready to record the next clip. Always check the clip recording time and recording speed before recording the next clip. If at any time you like to "edit" (shift clips on the timeline) while in the field, follow the steps below:-

Press the playback button to see the view on the above left. For more menu options press the OK button. This will open the menu on the right. This menu has no option to edit clips. To edit clips you need to press the Menu button to go back to the view on the left. Then turn the camera back dial one-click to the left to see the view below, on the left.

The above images show 3 steps. Follow these steps to edit or rearrange your project timeline. Press the buttons on the views in steps 1 & 2 (see the arrows). This will take you to step 3. In step 3, you select the clip you like to "edit" and press OK. This will take you to the view on the bottom left.

From the menu, select "Rearrange Order" and press OK. This will open the image on the right. Now you can move the clip to the "New" tab. You can also remove the clip. When done press OK. This will take you back to step 3. Select the next clip you like to move and press OK. Continue to apply the same sequence while editing the timeline. When done press the shutter button halfway to go back to video recording mode.

Below is an alternative method to edit the timeline.

To export the final video directly from the camera, press the image review button, and select "Export My Clips". Keep in mind exporting clips directly from the camera takes battery power and it can take a while.

When exporting the video with the camera, you need to check the following:

• Clip effects - Select one of six effects
• Transitions - Select "Fade" or "None".
• BGM - Background Music - the EM5 II has one melody pre-installed
• Clip Volume - Adjust the clip playback volume

The short video below was prepared with the EM5 MKII. When I exported the video, I selected no transitions, the Light Tone picture mode, and BGM (Back Ground Music). When uploading the video to YouTube, it is safer to upload the video in MP4 format.

In this project we selected MOV. To change the video format, open the video with Workspace and exported it again as an MP4 file. For more, see further down.

All video clips recorded with the EM5 II and the video was rendered in the EM5

Download clips from the SD card & editing in WorkSpace

Workspace has basic but functional video editing tools for beginners. They are similar to what you will see in advanced editing environments.

Please study the image below.

Workspace offers 4 easy steps to edit and prepare videos:-

1. Prepare and trim the clips with the Clip Trimming tool (Step 1)
2. Build the Timeline with the Merge Frames tool (Step 2)
3. Add external audio or music to your project
4. Export or render the final video

Follow steps 1 and 2 (see above image). If you need more information on WorkSpace, go to the help menu and download the pdf version of the WorkSpace User Manual. The image below shows how to organize your clips, where to file your "edited" clips, and how to save your final video.

Import the video clips from the SD card to the Video folder and the edited clips to the Projects folder. Give the edited clips descriptive file names and give each clip a "scene" number. When working with many clips it's important to clearly mark each clip. Study the example below.

I did not test the "add audio" or external music function on WorkSpace. Workspace does not have an audio editor. If you like to prepare separate audio files with music and sounds from the clips look for a separate audio editor you can use with your Mobile Phone.

The final step is to export your video. See the image below for more details. I used the MP4 format. When uploading MOV files to YouTube, they will be compressed and the results are not good. The export function (image below) is also a great tool to convert video formats. Open the video in WorkSpace and export it again with the new format.

Congratulations, you completed your first video project. Have fun, produce many videos, and show your grandchildren how it's done on Instagram...

Below is a video my wife recorded with her EM10 MKIII fitted with the 14-150mm. She uses full Auto Mode with no ND filters. She edits her clips in iMovie. This an example of not applying the basic video principles we covered in this article. It also shows that anything is possible.

Video clips recorded with the EM5 II and the video was prepared in WorkSpace

Final Thoughts and Q&A

How does one add Titles in WorkSpace

Olympus Workspace or the camera cannot add text to images or videos. One could prepare the text separately in Powerpoint. The idea is to then film a clip with the title:-

• Print the Powerpoint or Keynote page and film a 2s clip of the title
• For example:- Record a 2-sec clip of a black screen and then a 2-sec title clip
• The timeline will then have a 2-sec black, then the title, and then the video...
• You could also film the title clip directly from the PC screen (using a presentation)
• On my Mac, I have a screen recorder. (It records what is happening on the screen)
• With something like iMovie, text, titles, and openings are all done in iMovie

How to create separate Audio Tracks

Workspace has a basic Audio Editor but it does have the option to add separate audio tracks to the video. If you like to create a music track with a combination of sounds from your clips, try this:-

• Play the edited and ready timeline on your PC
• Simultaneously play a separate music track on your home stereo
• Adjusting the volume on these 2 tracks, use your mobile to record the final audio track
• Link the final audio track to your video with WorkSpace
• With a different editor like iMovie, this process is all done in iMovie

The above method might look like a strange technique but keep in mind it works. Add a bit of flair and creativity and you will have the necessary tools to create great video projects in WorkSpace.

How should I manage my web presence?

At the moment, much is written about vlogging and video reporting. Many photographers are discovering the power of video and people like to create holiday or event videos.

There are basically two on-line options, one is live streaming and the other is to first build the video from different clips. The first is a live event and for experienced presenters and vloggers. The second is great for storytelling and for those who prefer to control and select their best clips first and then edit a final movie. For those who are starting with a video and those who like to start a web presence, see the steps below:-

• Open a Google account which will give you access to YouTube
• Go to Google and YouTube Training Center and search for how-to videos
• The first step is to upload edited videos to YouTube
• From YouTube, share the links with friends and family
• Create an Instagram account
• Search the web for info, how to prepare images and videos for Instagram
• The final step is, be active, comment on others work, and follow people

What is the next step?

This is an open question. The options and variations to this question are endless. Keeping it simple, my advice is the following:

• Shoot longer clips to cut/edit shorter clips (from the same recording or clip).
• Move to more powerful video editing software, the options are:-
• Various iPad options of which one is iMovie
• iMovie for Mac is simple and easy to learn plus it's powerful
• I used Adobe Premiere Elements for years - great for video editing
• I stopped using Premiere Elements because it had a problem with Mac's
• I use Apple's Final Cut Pro, a professional video editing package
• Davinci from Black Magic is free for personal use and it's easy to learn
• Adding monitors, gimbals, microphones, and a camera cage
• Join groups or training courses to improve your video editing skills
• Join local clubs that do video as a hobby - its great for support

It is important to ask questions before buying new video gear. There are many great toys but chances are you will never use them.

Photoshop, PhotoLab, Luminar & WorkSpace

Last Update: 28th Nov 2020

Most photographers are familiar with Photoshop, PhotoLab 3, Luminar 4, and WorkSpace. Others use image editors like Lightroom, ON1, Capture One, or Topaz. In 2005, when I bought my first digital camera, I learned all about image editing with Photoshop Elements 2 and Paint Shop Pro.

With this article, we will take a quick look at Photoshop CC, PhotoLab 3, WorkSpace, and Luminar 4. We discuss some of the strengths and weaknesses of these editors and how they complement each other when used together in post-processing.

Olympus XZ-1 - edited with PhotoLab 3 and Luminar 4 (Sky was replaced with Luminar)

When evaluating different cameras, it is always important to rate them on how edit-friendly each camera's images are. You probably think, why do that? Some brands are just more flexible during post-processing. For example, Panasonic is known for its sharp images. That said, older Panasonics had color issues with especially skin tones, greens, and blue skies. It was difficult to correct these colors. More recent models like the GH4, GH5, and the G9 is much better.

In terms of color and image editing, my favorite brands were always Olympus and Canon. The flexibility these brands have is just great. When Olympus launched the original EM5, it felt as if the dynamic range never stopped, especially when compared to the older EP3 or the Canon 700D, which I used at the time.

Paging through my EM5 image collection and studying the images, I was happy I always selected jpeg + raw files. If you ever wondered about raw files, my advice is to start as soon as you can. The reason simply is, raw editors continue to improve every year...

Olympus EM5 w 12mm f2 Jpeg file,  ISO200, f5.6, 1/1000 (No editing - as-is from the camera)

The above image is not really great but interesting in terms of post-processing. The reason is the sky was not clear and the position of the sun not good. My camera default profile settings were set to neutral. The best would have been to take the image in the early morning or late afternoon. The reason for selecting this image was, I wanted to push it a little and study how it reacts with the different image editors. See the descriptions below each image for more information on how I edited them.

The raw file - edited with WorkSpace

Raw file - edited with DXO PhotoLab 3

Raw file - edited with Photoshop CC

Raw file - edited with Luminar 4

The above images were all taken in Lucerne, Switzerland. As you have seen in the descriptions I edited the same raw file with different image editors. If you spend enough time editing the different images, it is possible to get them to look the same. The approach will be different for each editor, but with a little patience, you will see the results you looking for.

Having said that, working with the different image editors, you also learn the strengths and weaknesses of each of these image/raw editors. If you prefer more creative freedom I think Luminar is currently the most exciting option. On the other hand, PhotoLab 3 is very true and capable, especially when combined with DXO filters like FilmPack 5 or the Nik Pro collection.

Raw file - edited with PS then opened in Luminar as a filter - EM5 w 12mm f2.0 - ISO200, F6.7, 1/1000

That said, you should not underestimate Photoshop. It does everything these different editors specialize in. The main plus something like PhotoLab 3 or Luminar 4 offer, is the low cost, ease of use, and the fun factor. I also like how DXO does its lab tests, to measure camera, and lens data. They then use this data to improve the results from PhotoLab and Filmpack. This is especially interesting for Olympus.

Olympus XZ-1, ISO100, f2.8, 1/800 (jpeg)

The above image was taken in 2012 when my wife and I visited Paris. You will see this is again not a great image because I did all the mistakes one should avoid making. For example, I pointed the camera to the sky, and the camera then exposed for the clouds. The street-level was underexposed with increased shadow noise. The little Olympus XZ-1 is way more capable when exposed correctly. 

You will see from the other examples below, I again used different editing styles with these images. Some I edited like I did with the above examples and the final image, I opened the raw file in PhotoLab, then transferred the result to Photoshop. From Photoshop I used Luminar as a filter to replace the sky. This enabled me to apply and combine the unique strengths of each editor in one editing session.

Olympus XZ-1 - raw file edited in PhotoLab 3

Below you see the different image editors I used and the order in which I spend time with each:-

1. Photoshop CC (My main creative and complete image editor plus raw converter)
2. DxO PhotoLab 3 (Probably the best raw editor, especially for Olympus)
3. Olympus WorkSpace (Excellent raw and basic jpeg editor, free for Olympus owners)
4. Luminar 4 (The AI functions are truly amazing plus layers make it a more complete editor)

I also use Aurora and DxO FilmPack 5. Years back I started with Adobe Photoshop Elements and through the years I kept an updated copy of Elements. If Adobe added curves to Elements, I would cancel my subscription and only used Elements.

Olympus XZ-1 - raw file edited in WorkSpace

When you click on the above image it will open in the web viewer. Scrolling through the different images you will see the image cropping and keystone results are different for each editor. No real reason other than I should have done a little more effort with each.

My typical raw file editing sequence looks something like this:-

1. In some cases, I open and edit in WorkSpace, then export to PS
2. More difficult scenes with image noise I edit in DXO PhotoLab 3 then export to PS
3. In most cases, I start with the raw file in PS and also complete it in PS

I prefer to have Luminar 4 and FilmPack 5 as Photoshop filters. I seldom work with Luminar 4 in standalone mode. The reason is the included image organizer. This is also the reason I do not use Lightroom... It will be so much better if Luminar and Adobe gave us the option to stop/cancel the organizer. I have a great system that works well for me and never saw the benefits of changing.

XZ-1 - edited in PhotoLab, Photoshop & Luminar 4

Different editing styles will apply to different applications. When editing for prints I am much more conservative and I will focus on colors and details aimed at printing. Editing for the web is different and more fun or experimental.

Taken with the Olympus EM5 with 14-150mm lens - ISO200, f9, 1/400 (Edited and prepared in Photoshop)

Photoshop is by far the best tool to prepare and edit panoramas. The above image consisted of 6 raw files. Photoshop compiled the final panorama in raw and I was able to do my normal raw routine with Photoshop. Interesting with Photoshop is the Content-Aware tool and how it fills in the edges in the final panorama.

Above image edited in Luminar as Photoshop filter, changed the sky, and applied various AI settings

The above panorama and the next 3 images were all taken in Miami. Using Luminar, I replaced the sky in the panorama. The sky replacement was not perfect because the replacement sky was sized for a single image and not a 6 part panorama. The raw post-processing with the next 3 images started in PhotoLab 3, then exported to Photoshop. From Photoshop I used Luminar 4 as a filter to edited any special effects.

Olympus EM5 w 14-50mm, ISO200, f7.2, 1/640 (PhotoLab 3 plus Photoshop plus Luminar - no sky replacement)

Olympus EM5 w 14-150mm, ISO200, f6.3, 1/800 (PhotoLab 3 plus Photoshop plus Luminar - no sky replacement)

Taken with the EM5, raw file edited - I let you guess what was done with this image...

The next two images were taken in Germany in a lovely village close to Frankfurt. You can literally spend weeks in this village and create many masterpieces...

Olympus EM5 with 14mm f2.5 - ISO800, f3.5, 1/60 (Raw edited in PhotoLab 3 and completed in Photoshop)

The same image edited in Luminar - sky replacement, added glow, and a few other AI adjustments

The next two images were taken in 2007 when I visited Nürnberg. The images were taken with the G7 and the E410. The E410 was in raw format and the G7 in jpeg format. When comparing these results with those I edited in 2007, the difference is day and night. One can literally spend hours going back a few years and re-process raw files...

Olympus E410 with 14-42mm Kit Lens, ISO100 - Edited with PhotoLab 3 and Photoshop

Canon Powershot G7 - ISO80, f4.0, 1/500 - Edited with PhotoLab 3, Photoshop, and Luminar 4

The time I spend editing the different images in this article was less than 5 minutes each. Normally I spend more time per image. The fun factor of working with these different editors is huge. One of my next projects will be to take more and exciting skies for Luminar 4. This is probably the most fun aspect of Luminar 4.

Do you need to have all these different editing tools? Anyone of the editors discussed in this article is great and more than enough. If I had to recommend an editor or filter option, my choice would be Luminar 4. WorkSpace combined with Luminar 4 is more than enough and really powerful.

Olympus EM5 with 12mm f2.0 - ISO200, f9.5, 1/500 - (Raw file edited in PhotoLab 3)

Edited in PhotoLab 3, then transferred to Photoshop and sky replacement in Luminar 4

When you study the above image you will see I replaced the sky. Can you see the mistake? This is an important question because the final result should always look realistic... See my Instagram account for more examples. (TIP:- look at the sun)

The images below were all taken in different locations like South Africa, Switzerland, and Sardinian. I used different editing combinations with different editors...

Panasonic LX100 - ISO640, f5.6, 1/60 - Raw file edited with PhotoLab 3

Olympus EM5 II with 14-150mm MKII - f5.6, 1/640 - Raw file edited with PhotoLab 3

Olympus EM5 II with 12-50mm - ISO200, f5, 1/200 - Raw edited with Photoshop and refined in Luminar 4

Olympus EM5 II with 17mm f1.8 - ISO200, f4.5, 1/1000 (ETTR +0.7EV) - Raw edited with PS and Luminar 4

Oly E-620 with 18-180mm - ISO100, f11, 1/100 - Raw edited with PS, then edited in Luminar 4 (no sky replacement)