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Feb 3, 2021

High detail images and HDR variants

 Last Updated:- 20th August 2022

Introduction

Take a moment and think about the 2-Step-Exposure-Technique. As you know the 2nd step allows us to optimize our exposure settings and the performance of the image sensor. We also discussed how shifting the histogram to the right (ETTR) increases the recorded tonal data.

You will find more about the 2-Step-Exposure-Technique here.

In one of my previous articles, an EM5 III owner asked how to improve shadow details and whether HDR is a viable option. Thinking about HDR, we know the Olympus HDR function uses stacked images as is Adobe Photoshop. Stacked images generally help us to improve Image NoiseDynamic Range, and the Tonal Data of the final image. 

You will find more about the EM5 III article here.

How to create a detailed 32-bit image in Photoshop

Another way of increasing our tonal data is the Merge to HDR Pro feature in Photoshop. This feature combines two or more bracketed images into one detailed 32-bit image. This function is great for product photography or landscapes. It can be compared to the Hi-Res mode from Olympus.

I did a quick search of my image collection and found 3 bracketed shots. I used the Photoshop Merge to HDR Pro function to merge these images. See the final result below.


Taken with my Canon 350D in 2004


Here are the histograms of the 3 bracketed images. I did not know anything about optimizing the image sensor or how to record better tonal data when I took these images. I basically applied what forum experts or photography magazines said and took the three +/-1EV bracket images.




Which starting exposure is best for an HDR sequence? Is it better to expose the first image normally or should we shift the exposure for more shadow or highlight details? One method is to simply optimize the sensor for the first image. The two bracketed images at +/-1EV should be enough to have a good balance between the shadows, mid-tones, and highlights. 

It shouldn't be necessary to shift your initial exposure in a bracketed sequence. It's best to experiment if you need to improve the shadows or the highlights. The final step is to determine the difference between the lowest and highest exposures. This will determine if you select 1/3, 1/2, or 1-Stop increments for your bracketed sequence or whether you will use 3, 5, or 7 bracketed images.

Another interesting method is the Exposure Blending function in Photoshop. It blends 3 bracketed images into separate layers with a mask for each. This enables photographers to see which parts of each image are selected by Photoshop for the final image. The photographer can then edit the separate masks to focus more on specifics like image data and shadow details.

My advice is to practice and experiment with your camera and the histogram until you find the best combination that works for your photography style. The presenter in the video below used 2 bracketed images to explain the Merge to HDR Pro technique in Photoshop.




What about the HDR function in OMD cameras?


The Olympus HDR function is one of the most underestimated features from Olympus. It is available with most Olympus cameras and is generally in the Shooting 2 menu. The secret to using the Olympus HDR function is Manual Mode and not one of the Auto or semi-Auto Modes.

Use HDR1 or HDR2 on your Olympus and follow the basic principles discussed in the 2 Step Exposure Technique. You will see the camera automatically goes to ISO200 which means you might need a tripod in low light conditions. The base or starting exposure will determine if your focus is shadows or highlights. Use ETTR or target the shadows to improve the tonal data. You can also use the Olympus HDR function in normal daylight. 

Conclusion

While studying the above histograms, you will see the base exposure was perfect. My old Canon 350D did a great job of selecting the base exposure. This is not always the case. Practice makes perfect and I can only recommend that you use your camera as frequently as possible. Create your own opportunities and projects to practice these and other techniques with your Olympus.


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