VideoPic Blog

Jun 21, 2023

How to create unique portrait photos?

Last Updated:- 22nd July 2023

Writing this article, I thought about the importance of background blur and how often we need it. For example, I never saw a movie with every scene against a creamy background blur. We always see good subject separation with enough background information to define the setting or location. Most of the portrait photos in this article were taken with my older Olympus EM-1 MKI and the EM-5 II. These two cameras continue to deliver excellent results for 2023.

I was interested to see what's possible with M43 cameras and if it's correct to say we can't create a background blur or subject separation with M43 cameras? For example, I used the Color Creator and Color Filters with light and a slight foreground blur to guide the viewer into the following scene. My 11-year-old EM1 MKI with the Enhanced Raw Format and Workspace made this possible.

The original EM1 MKI with the 45-175mm Lumix lens. ISO250, f5.6, 1/200 - Enhanced Raw File edited in WS.

Some questions, techniques, or lenses I used:-

Did I edit my subjects and the backgrounds separately?
Did I focus more on the f1.8 or f1.2 lenses from Olympus?
Do I prefer M43 macro, fixed focal length, or zoom lenses?
Do I use Standard, Premium, or Pro Zuiko lenses, and which ones?
Do these images look more like the results of a Lumix or Leica lens?
Which is more critical, the camera-to-subject distance or the background?

Hint:- I used a different lens each day we walked the dog. Before you read my image descriptions, take a moment and guess how I planned and took each image and what lens I used...

The EM1 with 12-200mm lens - ISO640, f6.3, 1/320, FL 200. I edited the jpeg file with ON1.

I prefer landscape, flower, street or city, and product photography. My wife agreed to be my model for our daily walks. You are welcome to guess what she said after each portrait photo..:-)

My advice to M43 photographers is to plan and grow your portrait experience. Keep notes of your camera settings or the lenses you used, any scene specifics, and the optimum "blur" distances from your subject to the background. Experiment with background types and describe those that work for your camera/lens combination. Each portrait shoot should be a fun event. Portrait shoots take planning, talking, and specific scene and camera settings. Portrait images tell stories with different surroundings, backgrounds, and a unique portrait focus...

How NOT to do portrait photography...

The Vlogger or YouTube Look. (FL=12mm).

How often does one see this "YouTube look" from vloggers with the wrong lens? Why don't salespeople advise their clients? A focal length of 25mm or less is best for vlogging. The ideal Prime Lenses for this article were the 25mm f1.4, 45mm f1.8, and 75mm f1.8 lenses. The 12-200mm, 45-175mm, 35-100mm f2.8, and 40-150mm Pro f2.8 lenses were also great for portrait photos.

The next step is selecting the Shutter Speed and Aperture. The goal is to freeze any movements with portrait photography. The best option is Manual Mode. Start with lower aperture values and target shutter speeds of 1/400 or higher. Fix the ISO and monitor the SNR to ISO ratio or shadow noise. A shutter speed of 1/400 works for Shutter Priority. (Difficult to manage sensor saturation)

The E-P3 with 75mm f1.8 lens - ISO200, f5.6, 1/200 - Edited with ON1.

Consider these points when you are doing portrait photography:-

The distance between your subject and the background is important
The photographer's distance from the subject is unique for each lens
Each lens has an optimum distance from the subject & the background
Carefully prepare and select your portrait locations and backgrounds
Select the right focal length and move up and close to your subject
Don't hesitate to use higher ISOs to keep your shutter speed above 1/300
Use large apertures, soft light, and the right time of day (morning/afternoon)
Kit lenses like the Lumix 45-175mm or Olympus 40-150mm work well
Try fixed focal length lenses 25mm, 45mm, 75mm @ f1.2, f1.4, or f1.8
See this page from OM-System explaining a background blur and bokeh
Follow me on my Instagram page and learn more about my daily photos
See this article I wrote about wildlife photography and background info

EM1 III with the amazing 40-150mm f2.8 Pro lens. ISO200, f2.8, 1/20, FL125. I used 2 Rotolight Neo 1s + Tin Foil to create this bokeh...

The tiny sensor of the Fuji Finepix FX600EXR

Another great project with my grandson and his Fuji compact...

Here is a short summary of the lenses I used:-

The Olympus 12-200mm lens. This lens does well with a background blur or bokeh.
The Olympus 75 - 300mm f4.8-6.7 lens. This is a unique lens when applied creatively.
The Panasonic 45-175mm lens. A fantastic lens for creating a creamy background blur.
The Panasonic 35-100mm f2.8. Expect excellent IQ & results from this 70-200mm f2.8.
The Olympus 40-150mm f2.8 Pro lens. The ultimate M32 lens for creative backgrounds.
The Olympus 12-45mm f4.0 Pro lens. My favorite. It's fantastic for subject separation.
The Olympus 75mm f1.8. Top IQ & perfect for subject separation and background blur.
The Panasonic 25mm f1.4 Leica lens. Super fast & great subject separation with top IQ.
The Olympus 17mm f1.2 Pro lens. Fantastic lens but not a good choice for portrait blur.

Portrait Image - Day 1.

EM-5 II with Lumix 45-175mm lens - ISO200, f5.6, 1/320, FL=175mm. Raw file converted and edited with WS.

Day 2.

EM-1 with 12-200mm lens - ISO320, f6.3, 1/320, FL=137mm. Enhanced Raw File converted and edited with WS.

Day 3.

Olympus EM-5 II with 75mm f1.8 lens - ISO200, f1.8, 1/800. Camera jpeg converted to BW & edited with WS.

Day 4.

Olympus EM1 with the Lumix 35-100mm f2.8 lens - ISO400, f2.8, 1/200, FL = 100mm - (Not the best background).

Day 5.

Olympus EM-1 with Lumix 45-175mm lens - ISO100, f5.6, 1/80, FL=136mm. (Awesome, small, fast, internal zoom)

Day 6

EM1 III with Leica 25mm f1.4 lens - ISO200, f1.4, 1/2000. Raw converted and edited with WS. (Stunning lens)

Day 7

EM1 MKI with the 45-175mm lens. ISO640, f5.6, 1/400 - I converted and edited the Enhanced Raw File with WS.

Day 8

EM1 with 17mm f1.2 Pro lens - ISO100, f6.3, 1/100 - Raw converted & edited in WS - Excellent subject separation.

A friend of mine asked if we could do a few portrait photos of him. I used my EM1 III with the 75mm f1.8 and the 12-45mm f4.0 Pro lens. I like the AI mask function of Photoshop because it lets me edit the background and subject separately. I noticed Workspace is slower on my older iMac after the recent V2.2 upgrade. I did a factory reset on my iMac and re-installed V2.1.1 of Workspace.

See my Workspace Software update page for more information.

Applications like PhotoLab 5, ON1 2023.5, Workspace V1.5 or 2.11, Viewer 3, Photoshop 2022, PS Elements, Final Cut Pro, Luminar 4, and others work well on my older iMac. I am working on an article to discuss different PC options, photo editing options, and trends like AI...

This is an example of a complete edit in WS. I used the Monochrome Profile tool. I also used an ETTR of +1EV.

I converted and edited my friend's portrait photos with Workspace. Olympus cameras and Workspace use the same image processing. The difference in using Workspace is advanced AI noise reduction, plus "Olympus" colors with the same image quality technology as your Olympus camera. The edited IQ differences can be significant between Workspace and editors like Photoshop or ON1.

Day 9

Olympus EM-1 III with 75mm f1.8 lens - ISO800, f1.8, 1/5000. (Creative and informative background)

EM1 III with 12-45mm Pro - ISO400, f6.3, 1/1000, FL 40 (Informative background, subject separation, movie look).

EM1 III with 12-45mm f4.4 Pro Lens - ISO800, f7.1, 1/320, FL36mm - ETTR of +0.7EV, raw done in WS.

Olympus EM1 III with 12-45mm f1.4 Pro lens - ISO400, f6.3, 1/100, FL50. (The background is part of the story)

Conclusion

As illustrated in this article, there is no such thing as some cameras cannot do this or that. Some are only better at specific applications. It's all about perspective and planning. For example, many photographers are overwhelmed by the shallow Depth of Field (DOF) of full-frame cameras and others with the native (deeper) DOF of Micro Four Thirds cameras. My advice is to ignore full-frame advocates and simply take a step closer to your subject and use the right lens for M43 photography...

Whether you do weddings or sporting events, each portrait photo tells a story. Blurred backgrounds are used with weddings to place the focus on the subject, whereas wildlife and sports photography benefit from having background information. See this video about wildlife photography in Botswana and how the photographers applied the techniques discussed in this article. Also, see this article.

One of the strong points of Olympus cameras is creative photography. Olympus specializes in features like the Color Creator, LIVE Composite, LIVE Time, ART filters, and the option to tweak the camera's Tone (Gamma) Curve. Olympus also created a fantastic range of "creative" M43 lenses. The only thing standing between you and your creative photography are those you listen to...

EM1 III with 75-300mm MZuiko lens - ISO200, f5.6, 1/200, FL150 - Enhanced Raw File converted/edited in WS + Color Creator (2:0) & Tone Curves.

This is an example of using the lens and background information to create a bokeh effect. The light shining through the trees in the background made it possible to create this lovely bokeh. I used the same technique on another image with my 45mm f1.8 MZuiko lens to create a bokeh. Study the descriptions for more information about the differences between these images...

Raw file converted and edited with Photoshop. The subject and background were separately converted with PS.

Random Images...

EM1 MKI with 12-200mm lens - ISO200, f6.3, 1/320, FL200 - Raw converted and edited with WS (Color Creator)

Should we use Olympus Pro or F1.2 lenses:-

The Olympus Pro lenses are prime lenses with exceptional image quality.
Olympus Pro lenses are fast lenses that make more applications possible.
Their capturing of fine details, color, and image sharpness is unmatched...
F1.2 primes are excellent. The 25mm and 45mm are great portrait lenses.
The IQ differences between Zuiko Standard, Prime, and Pro lenses are tiny.
Weather sealing and ruggedness are critical differences for Zuiko lenses.
M43 lenses are application sensitive. Find & use the right lens for the job.

Have you ever wondered why those pushing M43 lens diffraction, dynamic range, or image noise promote the Olympus 12-100 f4.0 Pro Lens? Did you see the size and weight of this lens? These forums, reviewers, and "friendly" experts (promoters) should not be on anyone's radar list...

Here is a summary of the photography styles I used:-

One with background information. The background is part of your storytelling.
One with good subject separation. Focus on the subject with background info.
Creating a creamy background blur. An atmosphere and popular wedding look.
Creating a creamy bokeh background. Very creative and specific image look.
Background blur, bokeh, and subject separation are techniques to tell a story...

I am so excited about the techniques we discussed in this article that it will not surprise me if this article benefits my own photography. Thinking about Lensbaby lenses, I asked myself if the above photography styles were the first step that inspired the creation of Lensbaby lenses?

EM5 II with the 45mm f1.8 lens - Enhanced Raw File converted & edited (Color Creator & Color Filter) in WS.

The most important thing about this article is the creative aspects of background blur, bokeh, or subject isolation. I will be using these lenses and techniques more in my own photography.

The above image and the one below are the same scene.

They are different and tell different stories...

EM5 II with the 45mm f1.8 lens - ISO640, f14.0, 1/100 - Enhanced Raw File converted & edited in WS.

EM1 with 17mm f1.2 Pro lens - ISO100, f1.2, 1/800 - F1.2 Pro lenses offer a narrow DOF - All in WS + Color Creator.

Olympus EM-5 II with 45mm f1.8 lens - ISO100, f1.8, 1/1250 - Raw file edited with PhotoLab 6.

EM1 with Lumix 45-175mm PZ lens - ISO100, f5.6, 1/200, FL 175 - Enhanced Raw converted in WS and edited with ON1.

Original EM1 with 75mm f1.8 lens - ISO200, f1.8, 1/1250 - Converted in WS and edited with ON1.

Original EM1 with 75mm f1.8 - ISO640, f5.6, 1/160 - This image is leaning towards a bokeh.

EM1 MKI with 12-200mm lens - ISO320, f6.3, 1/320, FL200 - Raw converted and edited in WS. (Color Creator & Color Filters)

EM1 MKI with 12-200mm lens - ISO200, f6.3, 1/320, FL200 - Raw converted and edited with WS. (Color Creator & Color Filter)

Apr 30, 2023

How to use the Olympus Gradation Function?

Last Update:- 12th June 2023

1. Introduction

The computational features from Olympus are well regarded by those who use them. Unfortunately, many Olympus photographers will never experience the benefits of computational photography or the broader application of functions like High-Resolution Imaging and the Gradation function. The main reason is cleverly designed counter-marketing filters.

It doesn't need much to see the Engineering Team at the old Olympus Imaging Business was at least 10 years ahead of its competitors. The EM-5 MKI is a 2nd generation mirrorless camera with a 5-Axis IBIS solution for both stills and video. Canon and Nikon designed and sold DSLRs like the 60D, 5D3, D800, and D5200 when Olympus introduced the EM-5 with more Creative Color features.

Olympus EP-7 with the 45mm f1.8 lens, Gradation = "Auto." These Enhanced Raw Files were converted and edited in Workspace.

We reviewed the importance of SNR and sensor saturation. For example, how do we get more light onto the image sensor? Should we increase the ISO, use a flash, or adjust the Aperture/Shutter? We discussed ISO amplification and the role of the Aperture and Shutter. We will use this information to learn more about Olympus cameras and the Gradation function.

TIP: View the images on a large screen and study the descriptions...

EM1 III with the 12 - 45mm f4.0 Pro lens - ISO200, f5.6, 1/1.16Sec, +0.7EV - The focus stacked OOC image was edited in Workspace.

My lovely wife bought flowers, and I created a small studio for my EM1 III, tripod, large diffuser, and Rotolight Neo 2. Did you know the Gradation function changes your exposure values? Experiment with the 4 Gradation options and watch your camera's auto-exposure values change.

A focus-stacked ISO3200 example. I used 4 (bracketed) Enhanced Raw Files and applied the AI noise filter before stacking them in Workspace.

I will discuss the following:

Introduction
Why is the Gradation High option interesting for ETTR?
The three reasons why photographers use ETTR in 2023
Practical discussion on using ETTR with Olympus cameras
A brief overview of noise and the Olympus Noise Filter...
Conclusion (See my thoughts about the EM1 III and XT-5)

The Pen F and 17mm f1.8 lens (Edited version). I selected Gradation High in my Pen F and Normal to "color grade" the Enhanced Raw File.

2. Why is the Gradation HIGH option interesting for ETTR?

The Gradation function has 4 tone curves (Normal, Auto, Low, and High). The EM1 III U/M says it makes tiny adjustments to the camera's tones. See the user's manual for a description of each.

I have been using the Gradation function more frequently over the past year. For example, the Auto option is used to edit the image (raw + jpeg) with the camera or Workspace. I also use the Highlights & Shadows sliders to fine-tune the camera's Tone Curve. It's possible to simulate these "camera" settings in Workspace? In a previous article, I said the Gradation function should be great for ETTR. This article explores the Gradation High option for ETTR.

I often experience the WOW factor as I learn more about the Computational Features from Olympus. We can compare the Gradation "High" option with a V-Log profile and "Normal" to Color Grading. I tested this on my EM1 III with the Gradation "High" option and "color grading" via the Enhanced Raw File and Workspace. It's now possible to use ETTR without much effort.

Why do I use Midtones to adjust the final brightness of my image? Because it preserves my Neutral Gray values. Neutral (18%) gray mean the camera's colors are accurate. The exposure compensation slider adjusts the camera's Neutral Gray values. (Ref. the Zone System) This is why it's good to use the exposure and mid-tone adjustments separately. Does this also apply to ETTR? Yes, it's best to correct any ETTR over-exposures with the exposure compensation slider...

Did Olympus improve the Gradation function (Tone Curves) over the years? They said they did in the EM-5 launch documents. I didn't verify the more recent cameras...

The unedited OOC jpeg version of the above image with Gradation set to High. I used the Gradation function for ETTR.

3. The three reasons for using ETTR in 2023

Here are the 3 main reasons for using ETTR:-

Cameras do not saturate the sensor in Auto Exposure mode

The reason is a built-in DR safety margin for Auto users...
These safety margins impact your shadow details & noise
ETTR enables photographers to saturate the image sensor
How did I learn this? Knowledge and an unfiltered mindset

ETTR helps us to improve the sensor's Signal to Noise ratio (SNR)

The visibility of the sensor's noise floor increases at lower SNRs
Upping the SNR means the sensor's noise floor becomes less visible
ETTR is especially effective in the shadow areas of the image

ETTR improves our tonal data in the shadow areas of the image

Sensors are linear devices with less tonal data in the shadows
ETTR shifts the tone curves to the right to record more data

See this article about exposure, gamma curves, and tonal data...

4. Practical discussion on ETTR and Olympus

The Gradation function is one of the several computational functions from Olympus and a powerful option for ETTR. The HIGH option automatically saturates the sensor without clipping the highlights (EM5 Press Release). That means Workspace, the Enhanced Raw Format, and the Gradation High option let us increase the SNR, saturate the sensor, and shift the camera's tone curve to the right. We reset (color grade) the HIGH option with the Gradation NORMAL option in Workspace.

The resulting 16-Bit Tiff file from Workspace has a higher SNR, more tonal data, looks like a regular image, and offers more flexibility when we edit the converted 16-bit Tiff file in Photoshop.

Here are a few practical Tips:

Our goal is more light on the sensor (camera settings, time of day, and flash)
It's critical to be clear about the ISO's role versus the Aperture/Shutter Speed.
Use a fixed ISO value to prevent the camera from amplifying the image signal
Never disregard the importance of using a flash to add more light to the sensor
It's always good to set your White Balance manually. (Not critical for ETTR)
It helps to create a flat profile with Highlights/Shadows for Gradation High...
Experiment with your Histogram Settings and use the Histogram with ETTR.

Olympus Pen F with 45mm f1.8 lens - ISO1600, f7.1, 1/8 Sec - Converted and "color graded" in Workspace, no noise reduction.

Experiment with the Gradation High and Highlight/Shadows functions to create your "ETTR" camera profiles. A flat Tone Curve means negative values for Highlights and positive for Shadows, like Highlights -3 and Shadows +4. Always use the same principle of creating a Tone Curve in the camera and "Color Grading" (resetting) in Workspace and the Enhanced Raw File. "Color grading" Olympus Tone Curves do not mean opposite values like we typically do with V-Log Profiles. It simply means returning the camera's settings to their default values. The Enhanced Raw File allows us to reset the image to Neutral Gray in Workspace.

Raw Converters use a fixed Gamma curve (profile) to enable us to view the data. The older software Viewer 3, had a Gamma setting to change the profile's shadows, midrange, and highlights. Consider the Gradation and Highlights/Shadow adjustments as "Pre-Gamma" or Tone Curve adjustments in the camera. It's possible to Color-Grade or use them as Pre-Gamma adjustments.

The Gradation and highlight/shadow functions let us create flat tone curves or edit the image look. Always ask yourself, how can I get more light on my sensor, and what should my final image (jpeg) look like? This is why we use the aperture/shutter or exposure compensation to adjust the exposure (light) and the mid-tone function to adjust the look of the image with Workspace or the camera? The Enhanced Raw Format allows us to access almost any camera setting in Workspace.

The Olympus FL300R needs almost no space.

Does Color Grading change any of the ETTR benefits? No, the recording happens in the camera, and the ETTR benefits are part of the final image. Workspace does not add or remove any light from the sensor. That's why it's only possible to simulate the ETTR function in Workspace.

"Color Grading" means the camera values are zero in Workspace. That means we will change the camera settings, Shadows +5 and Highlight -5 (flat tone curve), to zero in Workspace. Experiment by applying "ETTR" with the camera and Color-Grading the Tone Curve in Workspace. Take the time to practice using your camera's Exposure Meter and the feedback from the Histogram.

Did the noise disappear in the above illustration? No, the size of the sensor's noise floor stays the same. We only improved the SNR, which means the noise floor became less visible. Should reviewers say smaller sensors have more noise? Absolutely not... ALL sensors have a noise floor...

The Olympus XZ-2 is a great compact camera. I prefer to get my info from manufacturers and don't trust camera reviewers or photography forum experts. My research and knowledge of digital cameras are also a great help. Discovering the XZ-2 and the satisfaction of using great oldies like the XZ-1 and the XZ-2 is exhilarating. The XZ-2 uses a BSI sensor, and the XZ-1 a CCD sensor.

Olympus Stylus XZ-2 - ISO100, f4.0, 1/500 - The Gradation Auto option in the camera and color-graded in Workspace.

The EP-3 is another oldie and an excellent camera. I took my EP-3 with my 12-50mm lens for a late afternoon walk with the dog. The XZ-2 and the EP-3 are compatible with the VF-4 Electronic View Finder. My XZ-2 was set to Auto Gradation in the above image.

I typically use 2-steps to convert and edit my Enhanced Raw Files. I select and edit my camera settings in Workspace for step 1, and the focus is specific or advanced image editing in step 2. Advanced editing can be done in Workspace or something like Photoshop. For example, I used the Gradation Auto option, Highlights/Shadows, and Tone Curves to edit the image below. We only need Step 1 or the converted 16-Bit Tiff file to post-process the image in Photoshop.

The EP-3 and the 12-50mm lens - ISO3200, f5.2, 1/80 - I converted the Enhanced Raw File with WS (Noise Filter = Low) and tweaked it in Photoshop.

The EP3 raw file was converted with PhotoLab 5, and I used DeepPrime (AI Noise Filter). The final image was edited with Photoshop.

5. A brief overview of image noise and the Olympus Noise Filter

Olympus photographers should experiment more with the Olympus Noise Filter. The main reason newer camera models have less noise is a smaller noise floor in modern sensors, more sensitive sensors, and more processing power like the Pen EP-3 and EM1 III. DxO PhotoLab became my benchmark to rate the Noise Filter in Olympus cameras and Workspace. The PhotoLab "Prime" option is enough for my general photography needs with the PEN, OMD, and XZ-2. I only use DeepPrime for extreme cases. It's possible to cancel the Olympus Noise Filter in favor of the PhotoLab noise filter...

Olympus cameras and Workspace use excellent Noise Filters. The Workspace AI option is enough for any challenging situation with the EM1 II/III or the OM-1. The default Olympus Noise Filter setting is "Normal." I prefer the "Low" option for my Olympus cameras. One can always use the Enhanced Raw Format to select the Standard or High options in Workspace. I rarely use the additional two sliders in the Workspace. Study this article for more on image noise and image sensors.

I used the Gradation "Auto" and Noise Filter "Low" options in the image below. I was surprised by the excellent DR and IQ of my Pen EP-3 and the XZ-2. The Pen EP-3 is a surprisingly good camera with all the marketing filters removed. For example, always start with the Official News Releases from Olympus if you like to learn more about Olympus cameras. See the Stylus XZ-2 News Release.

The reason for the little shadow noise (image below) must be a small noise floor in the XZ-2, plus the SNR was high at ISO100. Shadow Noise, or the visibility of the noise floor, increases at ISO800. The size of the sensor is irrelevant when I use my camera. I am only thinking about the available light at the sensor, any Tone Curves I like to use, and optimizing the SNR of my image signal...

Olympus XZ-2 - ISO100, f4.0, 1/400 - ND filter ON.

6. Conclusion

Marketers mislead photographers with statements like "Workspace is just another raw converter." Why shouldn't we compare Workspace, Lightroom, ON1, and Capture One to Workspace? Because these Raw Converters cannot simulate your Olympus camera settings. It's not the first time Marketers used false information to distract photographers. Micro Four Third cameras are some of the most filtered products in 2023. How many photographers are familiar with the Color and Creative Strategy from Olympus and how Olympus showcased it with the E30, EM5 MKII, and Pen F?

Folks, we don't need ETTR for good results with M43 cameras. Knowledge gives us an overview of photography. Knowledge empowers photographers to improve their image quality, and knowledge is a light casting different perspectives on the misleading filters from marketers...

I am working on an article for the EM1 III and the Fuji XT-5. Do we compare only IQ, or should we do more? For example, while focus-stacking with my EM1 III, I tried computational ETTR techniques plus processing an 80MP High-Ressolution image in the camera.

Considering this unique level of computational flexibility from my Olympus EM1 III, Workspace, and the Enhanced Raw Format, how should I plan a balanced and factual comparison between the EM1 III and something like the Fuji XT-5? Both these cameras are good but also radically different...

For more on Creative Color and Computational Photography, see this article.

Take care and God's Bless

Best

Siegfried

A few casual images while walking the dog...

The images below are from my Pen EP-3 and the 75mm f1.8 lens. I didn't do anything special for my camera settings. The images benefited from converting the Enhanced Raw Files in Workspace. I used the adjustments below on all the raw files and exported them as 16-bit Tiff files to Photoshop.

Older 12MP sensors have more noise (large noise floor) than newer M43 sensors. The skies were known for visible noise from these older cameras. The Noise Filter "Low" option was enough to clean the skies without losing details. It helps to manage older sensors with the SNR-to-ISO ratio.