Auto-Focus Techniques and Focussing Points

Last Updated:- 15th December 2021

Introduction

In this short article, we will study the image look at different focus points, focal lengths, and apertures. How does the focus point influence the look of the image and what happens if we change the aperture, focus point, or the size of the sensor?

For example, if you are looking for a new lens and the salesman mentions Depth Of Field or Hyperfocal Length, are you OK with these terms? In this short article, we will also look at how to select a new lens and why it's a good idea to select a lens for the right application.

Let's look at a definition for Depth-Of-Field (DOF) so that we are all on the same page. See the definition from Wikipedia below:

For most cameras, depth of field (DOF) is the distance 

between the nearest and the farthest objects that 

are acceptably sharp in an image.

Why would photographers want background blur or a nice bokeh? Why would they isolate subjects from the background? What is the so-called cinematic look? How does videography impact the use of depth of field or what do videographers want from the various focusing techniques?

Over the past 10 years, we saw how photographers progressively gave away more control to the camera. Automated functions became increasingly more dominant each year and in the process, photographers even started to question proven photography principles. 

Mirrorless cameras now apply built-in lens corrections and mobiles phones made it possible for anyone to now isolate subjects with a simple App. Do we still need to consider old-school photography techniques or should we only rely on the digital camera?

Canon 650D with 15-85mm - f9, 1/125, ISO200 (Used Kodak Porta film simulation with DXO FilmPack 5)

Let's ignore AI for a moment, mobile phones, and things like sensor size, dynamic range, and Auto Focus (Contrast/Phase Detect). Step back 50 years and let's look at photographers from that era. I bet, they will challenge us with questions like:-

• What criteria will you use when you select and purchase your next lens?
• Hyperfocal distance, Depth of Field, acceptable sharpness, circles of confusion
• Focus twice the distance to the nearest subject or focus one third into the scene
• Lens design, number of lens elements, lens groups, and how it impacts the lens?
• Testing your lenses, how to determine your lens sweet spot and diffraction point?
• Video recording introduced new rules with new lens variables, or are they new?
• Start using full Manual Exposure or continue using Auto Mode in A or S-Mode.
• Did you ask yourself, why does the Olympus wide-angle 12mm lens have f2?
• What about the backlighting or from the side, how does it impact your image
• How about the right lens, focal length, and using infinity FL on your lens

Those, not 100% familiar with Depth of Field (DOF), HyperFocal distance, or Circles of Confusion, or the infinity method, please have a quick look at the articles below:

Link 1:- A great article about sharpness, lens sweet spot, and the App we will discuss...
Link 2:- A great article about focusing techniques, all you need to know about focus...
Link 3:- A quick and simple technique to determine Hyper Focal Distance... great article
Link 4:- An article discussing how to use Hyperfocal distance for landscape photography
Link 5:- The App (OptimumCS-Pro) we will be discussing in this article... pls study
Link 6:- One final idea and a great practical example using the CS Pro App... a great read

Link 7:- Great presentation on infinity focusing techniques at Photography on Line...

Olympus EM1 with 60mm f2.8 Macro Lens - f7.1, 1/125, ISO100 - (Fuji Velvia film simulation with DXO FilmPack 5)

Here is a short summary of the key points in the above articles:

• Top lens sharpness (sweet spot) is typically +2 stops above the widest aperture
• Lens sharpness is determined by the aperture de-focus blur or its diffraction blur
• A long focal length offers a better illusion compression than a wide-angle lens
• Wide-angle lenses are more effective when used with large depth-of-field applications
• Large sensors need a smaller aperture for the equivalent DOF as smaller sensors

Different focusing features and techniques with MF and AF:

• Use full Auto Mode, AF (SAF or CAF) when doing street or landscape photography
• Selecting the focus point at double the distance from the closest "sharp" subject
• Thirds focussing rule, for max DOF, select a point one third into the scene and focus
• Using the camera preview button, available on most OMD cameras - see Link 3
• Manual Focus - various MF assist features like Pre-MF, magnify, and peaking
• Selecting the right lens and infinity focusing technique to ensure an infinite DOF

The OptimumCS-Pro and Simple DoF Applications

A quick look at the OptimumCS-Pro App. I trust you studied the information in the above articles and are familiar with the CS Pro App. Did you install the above Apps on your mobile phone?

When we photograph at a too wide aperture, we could lose image resolution because of defocusing (the blurring of objects in the front and back of the focus point); and vice versa with a too narrow aperture, we could lose sharpness due to diffraction. So we always need to think about the optimum aperture setting and focusing distance. The CS-Pro application can help us with that.

How does this app work? The app looks at sensor size, focal length, distance from the closest point to the furthest point that needs to be in focus. It then calculates the aperture and the focus point at double the distance from the closest focus point.

The Simple DoF App is free and easy to use. It calculates the hyper-focal distance for each lens, focal length, distance, and aperture. For those new to the App, it's important to practice first, before using it on critical projects. Having had the app on my phone for several months, I do use it from time to time but I found it's more valuable for learning purposes than my day-to-day photography.

Let's try the App and see what we learn about the Olympus 17mm f1,8 and the 12mm f2,0 fixed focal length lenses. Which apertures and what focus distance will work best to achieve an acceptable depth of field? I noticed that the lens data you will use with the App is those displayed on the lens and not the full-frame equivalent.

There are basically 4 ways to select a focus point:

1. Using full Auto (A-Mode) and focussing on the far distance using f5,6 to f8.0
2. Use mobile phone apps like simple DOF and CS Pro app, to calculate camera settings
3. Select the closest focus point in the scene and set the focus point at double that distance 
4. Select an appropriate aperture and then use the rule of 3rds to determine the focus point

Pen F w Lumix 14-140mm - ISO200, f5,6 1/200

1. Using full auto A-Mode, AF, and f5,6 to f8

To use this method it is important to have a good understanding of what lens to select for every scene or photo application. The ideal is you tried and tested all your lenses, you know the best aperture (sweet spot) for each lens and you experimented with selecting different apertures for street, landscape, product, and portrait applications. When you apply these rules you will find they become second nature. Let's have a quick look at the following lenses:

Olympus 17mm f1,8

For example, we know when doing street photography in crowded areas, the camera will select an AF point reasonably close to the camera. Let's see if that will support a preferred DOF from 1,5m to 30m. Using the Simple DOF and the OptimumCS-Pro applications, we see when selecting an aperture from f6,3 to f7,1 and a focal distance starting from 2,7m to 4m, the DOF will be from 2m to infinity.

Testing the 17mm f1,8 you will find its sharpest aperture is between f4 and f7,1. With a little practice, you will see that you can safely dial in an aperture of f7,1 for both street and landscape photography. For portraits, you will typically work with apertures ranging from f1,8 to f4.

Olympus 17mm f1,8 best DOF settings

Olympus 12mm f2,0

Peter Forsgård proposed using a wide-angle lens with apertures f5,6 to f8 for one month. Using the above applications, we see the advantage of WA lenses is the closer in-focus distance to the camera, and the wide-angle lens DOF characteristics tend to benefit a wider range of photography applications.

Studying the above examples we see the 17mm f1,8 hyper-focal distance was 1,4m. The CS-Pro App proposed a focal length of 4m. This is important when you need the foreground sharp. The general habit of focussing on a far distant point is therefore not ideal.

Repeating the above exercise with lenses like the Olympus 12mm, 17mm, and 25mm, you will find they are all great for street or landscape photography. The 45mm, 60mm, and 75mm lenses lean more towards portrait or product photography. Applying the same process you will see the 9-18mm f4 or the 12-50mm kit lenses are great for a wide range of applications.

To set up the camera so you can safely focus at any point, then lift your camera, reframe the image and take the shot, see this article. Look for - "Customizing the camera AEL and AFL"

2. Hyperfocal Distance Method

(Using only the Simple DOF App)

Looking at a hyperfocal distance I wanted to see the results when using the settings suggested by the App. I also selected to use a fixed MF distance. See the calculated results from the app below. See if you get the same results I did.

Olympus MFT lens 12mm f2,0

- Using f7,1 everything from 1.2m to infinity will be in focus
- Set the camera FL to 2m (MF or SAF)
- Hyperfocal distance is 1.4m

Olympus MFT lens 17mm f1,8

- Using f8 everything from 1.7m to infinity will be in focus
- Set the camera FL to 3m (MF or SAF)
- Hyperfocal distance is 2.4m

Sony A7 III lens 34mm f2,8

- Using f8 everything from 2.5m to infinity will be in focus
- Set the camera FL to 5m (MF or AFS)
- Hyperfocal distance is 4.9m

Pen F w Lumix 14-140mm - ISO200 f5,6 1/400

3. Using the OptimumCS-Pro App

With this example, I again selected MF to test what the results will look like when using the settings suggested by the CS-Pro app. See the results below. Again see if you get the same results I did.

Olympus MFT lens 12mm f2,0

- Using f7,1 everything from 1m to infinity will be in focus
- Set Focal Length to 2m (MF or SAF)

Olympus MFT lens 17mm f1,8

- Using f7,1 everything from 2m to infinity will be in focus
- Set Focal Length to 4m (MF or SAF)

Sony A7 III lens 34mm f2,8

- Using f13 everything from 2.5m to infinity will be in focus
- Set Focal Length to 5m (MF or SAF)

What's really interesting about using this method was finding the right focus point. I ended up using another app on my phone that only measures distance. When the app recommended a focus point of 2 meters, I used the other app to measure that distance so I could mark a focus point. I would then manually focus on that point.

Another interesting thing I noticed was the camera reacts differently in Manual Mode and Auto Exposure. The camera seems to "automatically" optimize the DOF when in Auto Mode. When in Manual Mode this was not the case. This happened with both the A7 III and the EM1 II.

4. Using the thirds and doubling subject distance, focussing methods

Considering what we learned, I see this final method as a practical example as it summarizes what experienced photographers have been doing for years.

Setting up a home studio

Let's look at how to set up a home studio for a new YouTube channel. We will look at the lens and the position of the camera in relation to the target. What focusing method will you use?

We often see camera reviewers walking around in a video to test and demonstrate the camera's CAF abilities. Do we really need this kind of CAF capability when setting up a simple home studio? Let's assume your home study consist of a desk, a chair, and something like a green backdrop. Considering what we discussed, we can now calculate the preferred aperture and focusing distances. This enables us to use older cameras like the Panasonic GH4, the EM10 II with MF, and save money.

You can select any focal length ranging from 12mm to 25mm. I used the 17mm f1,8 and the Olympus 25mm f1,8 for this example.

• Olympus 17mm f1,8 is camera A
• Olympus 25mm f1,8 is camera B and C (One could also a 45mm f1,8 for C)

I like to have a DOF from the center of the table to +2m behind the chair. See the CS Pro results below.

With a single camera set-up, you will select either camera A fitted with the 17mm lens or camera B with the 25mm lens. The key is the lens FOV (Field of View). If you prefer an upper body with a face view, the 25mm will work well, and if you prefer to have part of the desk included you will select the 17mm. This example is not an exact design, you still need to calculate the details. Camera C is meant for product views, that is if you like to have detailed product views in your presentation video.

Selecting an aperture and focus point for landscape images

One can use any application to calculate the best focal distance for a landscape. As said, it is key you practice with your camera. The practical experience provides a good feel for what works best for you. My personal lens preference for landscape photography is 9mm to 25mm. I test each of my lenses and then record the results in my aperture "sweet spot" notes book. My preferred landscape apertures range from f5,6 to f7,1, and in some cases, I will go up to f8.

The key is not to focus on the far distance but to select the "best" focus point. I prefer to use the rule of thirds to determine my focus point. I will then use SAF in Mode 2. This is similar to the back focus technique and enables me to select a focus point, move the camera, reframe, and take the image. See this article for more on this focussing technique.

The thirds method works on the principle that the distance from your camera to the focal point should be a thirds distance into the scene. That means everything twice that distance behind the focal point will be in focus. The closest in-focus point will depend on the lens aperture and the lens FL. This is the reason we prefer to focus on the first thirds when doing landscape photography. Again, you need to practice this method and experiment until you are comfortable with the results and your camera.

One more focusing method - Focus Stacking

In more serious cases photographers prefer to use focus stacking. Some Olympus cameras do this all automatically inside the camera. Others will take the stacked images and as explained in this video, create the final image in Photoshop. When watching the video, think of where you will select the different focal points for each stacked image. In other words, break each stacked scene up into thirds and select the focal point on the first third. (What camera did the presenter use, a crop sensor, or a FF camera?)

My final thoughts

Preparing for this article I spend a lot of time and I took many images while testing the two Apps. I was trying different focussing techniques like MF, SAF, and CAF. I was looking at what works best, a single AF point, 9 group AF points, and more. Each time I came back to the single AF point placed in the center of the camera screen. I also preferred MF or SAF depending on the situation.

I often used my EM1 II together with my A7 III. Interestingly, the A7 III images are more detailed than the EM1 II and one would expect that (24MP versus 20MP). That said, the closer I get to my camera/lens combination "perfect" settings, the smaller these differences are. Practicing with your camera and finding those sweet spots and best settings will result in significant image quality improvements.

The worst thing you can do is buy a lens, have no sweet spot or preferred aperture strategy, focus in the far distance, and expect great results...

Editing images with your Olympus Camera

Last Update: 27 April 2020

Olympus Pen F with Lumix 14-140mm f3,5-5,6 @ ISO200, f7,1, and 1/400 shutter speed (Exposed for optimum Dynamic Range)

Experienced photographers rely on their equipment and experience when preparing for that winning image. Most photographers are familiar with image editing with Lightroom or Photoshop. The question is, how does one personalize your images in the camera?

Most say, everything starts with good image quality, that is the reason why we purchase expensive camera gear. To record great image quality, we know we need to consider the following:-

• Make sure you selected optimum Exposure (Aperture and shutter speed + ETTR)
• Set the camera White Balance - This will improve the IMG color accuracy and IQ
• ISO impacts dynamic range and image noise, keep the ISO as low as possible

See these articles for information on how to improve your image quality

• My articles on Olympus Creative Color - Series
• How to Improve image quality and reduce noise

This article is applicable to the following Olympus cameras:

• All Olympus OMD bodies
• Olympus Pen cameras, EPL5/6/7/8/9/10 plus the Pen F

This article has 3 parts:

• Discuss general but important camera settings and techniques
• How-to prepare and edit raw or jpeg files in your camera
• How to personalize your images with the Olympus OI Share App

General camera settings

The settings I discuss in this section will improve your general experience with your camera. If you are familiar with these settings, please scroll to the next section.

I used my Pen F and the EM5 II to prepare the different images and illustrations for this article. I will not discuss all the camera settings available with your camera, please refer to your User Manual.

Image Quality

Shooting Menu 1:- Always select the RAW+JPEG option. This allows you to save your raw files for future use. Raw files do not change when editing your images in the camera. All edited images are saved as jpeg files in the camera. The RAW+JPEG option enables photographers.

Use your camera SCP as a window into which image settings are available with each Picture Mode. For example, use the camera SCP to check the jpeg file quality. You want your jpeg files set to LSF (Large Super Fine) to have more image data. If you need web-ready files, use smaller file sizes like Medium or Small. No matter what file size you select, always use SF (Super Fine). To change the image quality, go to the Custom Menu "G", and select "IQ Set". Follow the steps below:-

Image Aspect Ratio

Image aspect ratios are a personal choice and part of creating a unique personal style. The Micro Four Thirds sensor has a native ratio of 4:3. Raw files have a ratio of 4:3 with the full 16 or 20MP capacity. Photographers are generally comfortable using image ratios of 3:2 because that is the native ratio for APC and full-frame sensors. The image at the top of this article has a 4:3 ratio. This ratio is unique and a first step in differentiating yourself...

Customizing AFL and AEL

Mode 2 is a great choice when using SAF (Single Auto Focus). Think of a portrait photo with the model not in the center of the frame. Mode 2 enables you to point the camera to the subject, focus, and keep the shutter halfway while reframing and taking the image. The camera will measure the exposure when you press the shutter all the way.

"S-AF AEL/AFL" - Mode 2 is therefore good for static scenes. It's perfect for photographers using hyper-focal distances when doing street or landscape photography. Mode 2 is also great for weddings or portrait photography.

Mode 1 (camera default) is general and suitable for both moving and static subjects. When selecting Mode 1 you will not focus and reframe like you did with Mode 2. You will basically focus and take the image in one movement. The reason is Mode 1 measures and locks both AE and AF when you take the image.

Configure your camera for ETTR

Those not familiar with ETTR (Exposing to the Right), see this article. My preferred camera settings for ETTR are the following:-

• I always set my OMD back dial for exposure compensation. (Not the Pen F)
• I use the following exposure Info settings, Highlights, Shadows, and Histogram
• Camera Histogram set the over/under-exposure warnings limits to 254 and one
• Set the exposure (EV) steps to 1/3 EV steps and the ISO (Auto) steps to 1/3 EV
• Set Noise Reduction to Auto
• Noise Filter to "Low" (You can always change this when editing the raw file)
• ISO high limit to 1000 and the low limit to 200 (Rely on IBIS and not high ISO's)
• Depending on the scene, use full ESP or center-weighted exposure metering

Why do we use ETTR? The main reasons for using ETTR are:

• Recording more tonal data (image data)
• Improve image quality
• Reduce shadow noise

See this interesting article (7 Tips for getting better results with your Olympus Camera)

Olympus has an interesting function, Exposure Shift. It's important you first read the user manual. Using the exposure shift function, dial in an auto-exposure compensation of +3/6 (+.05EV).

One of the challenges in applying ETTR manually is the photographer needs a good understanding of exposure and the role of ISO. When using the Exposure Shift function it all is a little easier. My Pen F reacts a little differently than my EM5 II. You need to practice using this technique.

Select your preference AF configuration

For accurate focusing, select the center group or the single frame AF option. Olympus cameras have two single AF frame options. The small AF frame (image on the right) is more accurate and perfect for macro photography. Using all the focus points is not always the most effective way to apply your camera autofocus. Selecting the single AF frame option will offer several advantages:

• The center AF point is almost typically a cross-type focus point
• Its fast and the camera will focus accurately in various situations
• It complements the AF Mode 2 (AEL and AFL) we discussed above
• The photographer is in charge and not some eye-tracking or AI protocol
• This is a great strategy for repeatedly having the same result

Personalizing your images in the camera

There are basically three ways to create our own personalized images in the camera:-

1. Do not be afraid to select and experiment with the "standard" Picture Modes
2. Experiment with the Creative Color functions like Curves and the Color Creator
3. Create your own custom profiles or presets (Camera, WorkSpace, and OI Share)

Using Olympus picture modes

In my Creative Color series, I said it's important to make small adjustments when changing contrast, saturation, or sharpness. Apply one click at a time and test the effect for a few days until you find a combination that works well for you. I used the following Pen F settings for all the images below:-

• Picture Mode (Vivid)
• Contrast (+1)
• Saturation (-1)
• Graduation (See image notes)
• Curves

I then used different Curves settings on the image in the middle and the image on the right. I used the following settings for the image in the middle:-

• Shadows (-2)
• Mid tones (-3)
• Highlights (+1)
• Graduation (Normal)

With the image on the right, I activated Graduation which lifts the shadows and balances highlights and mid-tones. Besides, I used the following curves settings:-

• Shadows (-4)
• Mid Tones (-3)
• Highlights (-4)
• Graduation (Auto)

The curves function is great for adding that unique image look or when "pulling back" the excess brightness you get from ETTR. Here are a few curves adjustments (profiles) you can use and practice with:

• Add contrast - Highlights (+1) and Shadows (-1) - for more contrast, Shadows (-2)
• ETTR images - Pull back the Mid Tones while checking the histogram
• Misty look - Highlights (-2), Mid Tones (+2), Shadows (+3), and Contrast (-2)
• Experiment with the camera curves function, it's a powerful creative tool...

Olympus creative color functions

With the OMD EM5 II Olympus took the bold step and introduced the Color Creator. The Color Creator introduced Olympus owners to the artist's Color Wheel and color concepts like opposite or complementary colors. The Pen F took this to the next level by introducing the Color Profile and the MonoChrome Profile tools. The Pen F inspired me to write a 6 Part Creative Color series. 

You will find Part 6 here.

Olympus Scene Modes and Art Filters offer creative photographers more creative options. The key is to practice using SCP. The SCP will show you when curves are available and when not. Curves are available with ART filters and not with SCN modes. The steps below demonstrate how to activate the SCP for the different camera Modes.

Many Olympus owners do not know it's possible to fine-tune ART filters with curves. You can now select any ART filter and fine-tune that ART filter to create the image look you prefer. See the example below or at the bottom of this article:-

Another option I discovered with B/W ART filters, is the option to apply color filters and/or change monochrome base colors. See the SCP or ART filter menus below.

These color options are available with the:

• Dramatic Tone II
• Grainy Film 1
• Grainy Film II

Another option is Photo Story. Photo Story has different in-camera image templates. Each template has different options to finish the final Photo Story look and feel. This is a great way of creating your own unique Instagram presentation...

Photo Story Template

Instagram images have an image ratio of 4:5 or 8:5. The 2nd ratio is more complex because it's best done in Photoshop with the slice tool. You can prepare your 4:5 ratio in the camera or with the OI Share app. Before uploading your image to Instagram resize the image vertical to 1350. See the example below...

Editing your raw files in the camera

I never used this function. I was pleasantly surprised to see just how much one can do in the camera. With your Olympus camera, you can edit raw files and jpeg files separately. The raw editor is more flexible and powerful than the jpeg editor.

Follow the steps below to open the camera raw editor:-

Step 1 - From the "Playback" menu select "Edit"
Step 2 - Select "Sel. Image"
Step 3 - Scroll through your images until you find the image you like to edit, press "OK"
Step 4 - Select "RAW Data Edit"
Step 5 - Next you will select how you will edit your raw file, see the descriptions below

Option 1 - "Current"

The camera will take the current camera configuration and apply that to the raw file. You need to prepare any special settings before opening the editor.

Option 2&3 - "Custom" 1&2

Here you have two options:-

Option 1

Select Custom 1 or Custom 2 and press OK. The camera will use the previously used Custom adjustments. Think of Custom 1 or 2 as "editing" profiles.

Option 2

Select Custom 1 or Custom 2 and press the right arrow. Next, you will see the raw editor. See the images below.

Scroll through the different raw settings to edit/adjust your camera raw file. The settings you use will become part of the Custom "profile". Next time you select the Custom option and press "OK", these settings will be applied to your raw file.

When done press "OK" and then "Yes". The edited raw file is now saved onto the memory card. Next press "No" and you will be able to select the next image...

I did not discuss all the different editing functions separately, we will do that in the next article. You could also try the jpeg editor. You will see the raw editor has more editing functions.

Olympus OI Share and OI Track

Most Olympus cameras have a Wi-Fi function and some of the later models have Bluetooth. This makes it possible for you to track your location, control your camera, upload images, and edit images with your mobile phone. This is great news for those traveling.

See the Olympus OI Share Page
See the Olympus OI Track Page

How-to connect to these applications? I first connected my OI Share app with my camera (EM5 II) and next I connected the OI Track app. It's easy to do the connection, press the WiFi logo on the back of your camera screen, and follow the steps below...

Now you are ready to start using your Olympus App with your camera. See the images below showing some of the editing screens available with the OI Share Application.

The image on the left is the application "Control Center" from where you have access to all the App settings and functions. In my follow-up articles, I will discuss more.

The interesting part is, that as you get used to working with WorkSpace, the different camera functions, and the mobile phone application, you will find all use the same look and feel. You basically familiarize yourself with one set of tools with which you can do most of your cataloging, image editing, editing on the go, and image sharing...

Olympus Color and Creative Photography - Part 6

Last Updated: 28the July 2023

Introduction.

The Pen-F continues to be an excellent camera in 2023. This is the third iteration of this article. I added a brief overview of the Olympus Color and Creative Photography program and an example of a Fuji film profile for Olympus cameras. The OMD EM5 II was the first Olympus hybrid camera with the full Color and Creative Photography package from Olympus. The Olympus Pen-F and E-M1 II introduced the new Enhanced Raw Format and Olympus Workspace.

The original design of digital cameras is based on the core elements of analog photography. The focus was photography, sensor types, manual or autofocus, and exchangeable lenses. These core elements have improved over the past 20 years, and modern digital cameras generally produce good image quality. The only negative is the price/performance ratio became worse each year.

Olympus recognized this in the 1990s and added more core elements to its strategy. They introduced the first version of the Color and Creative Photography concept with the E-30, and the original OMD EM5 was the first Olympus camera with the LIVE COMP feature. This was also the first Computational Feature from Olympus. Interestingly, competitors and reviewers ignored this development until more recently. The OMD EM-5 II and the Pen-F introduced the next generation of this strategy.

It all started with this camera in 2015. They continue to deliver exceptional value and can be found for less than $400.

We will discuss the following in this article:-

1. Introduction
2. A brief overview of Olympus M43 cameras
3. The differences between Fuji and Olympus
4. Olympus Color and Monochrome Profiles
5. Conclusion

2. A brief overview of Olympus cameras

Imagine that Canon launched the EOS 760D, Nikon the D7200, Sony the A7 II, Fuji the XT10, and Panasonic the G7 when Olympus launched the OMD EM5 MKII. Forum "experts" and reviewers raved about the Canon and Nikon DSLRs in 2015 because they had more megapixels, dual autofocus, and Live View. At the same time, Olympus unveiled its new Color and Creative Photography concept with the EM5 II. It took most competitors 8+ years to fully compete with the EM5 II...

I update my articles as I learn more about the Olympus Color and Creative Photography strategy. This includes technical updates, general information, and more about the Olympus Live MOS sensor. Did you know Olympus identified and perfected new technologies up to a decade before its competitors introduced anything similar? The Olympus version of IBIS is an excellent example of this...

Olympus EM5 II with 60mm f2.8 macro lens - High-Resolution Mode, Color Creator, edited in Workspace.

A short summary of the Color and Creative Photography concept from Olympus:-

1. The 1st camera that introduced the unique Color Creator was the OMD EM1.  
2. The Olympus Pen-F introduced Color Profiles and MonoChrome Profiles
3. The ability to tweak the camera's Gamma Curve started with:
1. Highlights/Shadows (EM1) and the Midtones EM5 II)
2. The "Auto" Gradation option in the Olympus E520 DSLR
3. The Tone Curve function in Viewer and later Workspace
4. Great features like Live Composite and Live Time are unique to Olympus
5. The Olympus iEnhance Picture Mode plus Color Filters (basic color filters)
6. The Olympus SCN modes and ART filters improved with new cameras - EP7
7. Olympus replaced Viewer 3 with WorkSpace with more advanced integration
8. Workspace introduced the Enhanced Raw Format that is unique for Olympus
9. For example, WS has the same Image Processing environment as its cameras
10. I discovered Workspace simulates "Live View" after hours of editing with WS
11. Then we have the "old-school" saturation, contrast, and sharpness (all brands)
12. Features - Pro-Capture, High-Resolution mode, Live ND, and Focus Stacking
13. Olympus designed and added a new core element with powerful creative features

Why call it Color and Creative Photography? It's an expression of how M43 photographers see the world. Forum experts and reviewers pixel-peep or say the High-Resolution function is limited to static scenes. M43 photographers embrace new technologies like the High-Resolution function. They view food, products, sunrise or sunset, and landscape photography like high-resolution options. They will use the High-Resolution function as an ND filter for moving water and street photography. They know High-Resolution applications improve the camera's dynamic range and visible noise. Creative M43 photographers understand high-megapixel applications and celebrate new features...

Olympus EM5 II with 12-200mm Lens ISO200, f6.3, 1/650 - Enhanced Raw converted in WS - Color Creator.

Only some photographers realized what happened when Olympus introduced the new Pen-F. We can compare the Olympus Color and Creative Photography concept with IBIS. It took Olympus 13 years to create a perfect IBIS solution and introduce 7.5 stops of in-body image stabilization for the Olympus EM1 III. Promoters spend hours distracting M43 photographers by claiming Olympus didn't invent IBIS. Canon likes you to believe they did more in 1 year than Olympus did in 12 years.

While being an exciting creative camera, the Pen-F always felt like an experiment. Was this a strategic decision from Olympus to test their advanced Art Processing capabilities in the Pen F? At the same time, camera reviewers and forum promoters complained about the placement of the Creative Dial as they wisely labeled it a marketing gimmick? They also pushed for full-frame DSLRs, more megapixels, 4K video, Live View for DSLRs, Mic inputs, and headphone outputs? 

The Pen-F Press Release notice continues to be a good read in 2023.

Press release summary: The Monochrome and Color features of the Pen-F started a new era for creative photography. It allows us to apply a new color and monochrome concept, plus the ability to follow any changes in the camera with Workspace and Live View. The Pen-F and the EP-7 are the best choices for photographers wanting advanced Color and Creative Photography features.

Olympus Pen-F with 17mm f1.8 lens - ISO500, f4.5, 1/60 - Enhanced raw file edited in Workspace - Color Creator.

3. Color Profiles and the differences between Fuji and Olympus

This is a great subject and could fill many pages of a separate article. I have been using Fuji for more than 2 years. The reason I bought the X-T4/5 is the ongoing uncertainty about OMS. OM-System did a great job launching the Olympus OM-1 and deserves positive feedback. I prefer Olympus used cameras like the EM5 II/III, Pen F and EP-7, OMD EM1 I/II/III, and the Olympus OM-1.

I prefer to support manufacturers with a history in the photography segment. Fujifilm is one of those companies. I bought my Fuji X-T5 shortly after it was introduced. The Fuji X-T5, Olympus EM1 III, and Pen F are great examples. The long-term viability and future of OM-System continue to be an open question. See my thoughts on the new O-M5, the OM1 II, and the lack of a Pen F II.

3.1 What's the difference between Olympus Color Profiles and Fuji

The difference is X-Trans sensors and the Color Filter Array. Don't let reviewers or forum promoters tell you it's Fuji marketing like they did with Olympus. Fuji is a market leader in traditional analog photography and how to integrate that experience in its modern X-Trans image sensors. Do your own research by starting with the above Fuji information.

Source: Fujifilm X-T5

Fuji cameras come with a selection of up to 18 film simulations like Provia (standard), Velvia (Vivid), Astia (soft), and several B&W and monochrome options. Each has a unique description to guide the photographer when selecting a film simulation. I never saw similar film simulations for Olympus or any other camera brand. One can add a Color Chrome Effect to these film simulations and the blue skies. The color chrome effect reminds me of the Color Creator from Olympus.

Study this link about the Fuji X-T5 and go down to the film simulations. The biggest strengths of Fuji and Olympus cameras are color, image quality, and the option of having the final image in the camera. The Fuji film simulations and JPEG files are superior to any other brand, and the Olympus Color and Creative Photography concept is better than anything else in this segment...

Fujix Weekly developed a unique community of Fuji owners. They created film filters like the one below. These filters are based on standard Fuji film Simulations with simple variations of basic camera settings. See the example below.

A new color Color Filter for the X-T5.

How to copy Fuji's film simulations for Olympus:-

• Fuji Film Simulations - The Pen-F and E-P7 are the only cameras that can do this
• Fuji Film Simulations - Workspace compliments the Pen-F and the E-P7 functions
• Clarity and Color Chrome - Use Clarity in WS and the Color Creator = Chrome Effect
• DR100%, DR200% - this is a clever feature from Fuji (See this article for more info)

EM5 II with the Lumix 35-100mm f2.8 lens - ISO200, f5.6, 1/250 - Raw file converted in WS - I added a Chrome effect with the Color Creator.

Is it possible to use Fujix Weekly Color Filters with the EM5 III? We first need to study the Fuji Film Simulations and their descriptions. The next step is to replicate Fuji Film Simulations for the EM5 III. Some presenters say it's possible with the OMD and PEN cameras. I found these Fuji film simulations are too complex for OMD cameras. Only the Pen-F, E-P7, or Workspace will replicate them.

For example, the Classic Chrome Simulation description says, "slightly desaturated colors (reds and greens) with stronger shadow contrasts for dramatic lighting, retro-style subjects, and reportage projects." It's a safe place to start replicating these Classic Chrome Film attributes with something like the Olympus EM10 II or the EM5 II. These are the settings I used:

• Desaturated Colors - Select the Muted Picture Mode plus A -2 and G -2 (SCP)
• Desaturated Colors - Go to the SCP and set the RGB setting to -2
• Harder Shadow Contrasts - Select Highlights +2, Shadows -3, and mid-tones -2
• We can do more with the Pen-F because it's better at adjusting individual colors.

The above settings replicate only the Classic Chrome Film Simulation. The Kodachrome 64 Filter settings have to be added on top of that. This is a process of working on the different parameters until you reach the right look. I tested the above profile with my EM5 II against the XT-5. I could only get approximately 85% of the Classic Chrome simulation with my EM5 II. I also used the Color Creator to create a Chrome effect with the following settings: Color = 2 and Vividness = -2.

Fuji X-T5 with 27mm f2.8 lens - ISO400, f5.6, 1/1100 (Provia/Standard).

Olympus EM5 II Kodachrome 64 Profile

• Picture Mode: Muted (See this video)
• Grain Effect: Set the max ISO to ISO1600
• Color Chrome: Use the Color Creator (See this article)
• White Balance "Daylight": (A 0) and (G -7)
• Highlight: +2
• Shadow: -3
• Midtones: -2 (Adjust between -1 to -2)
• Gradation: Normal
• Color: -1 (RGB)
• Sharpness: +1
• Noise Reduction: None
• Clarity: Can be added in Workspace (Enhanced Raw File)
• Auto ISO up to ISO2000 (fixed)
• Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 EV

The main difference between Olympus and other cameras is the Pen F and the Pen E-P7. The "Color Adjust" and Monochrome Profile functions are far superior. I am not planning to copy more Fuji film simulations or Fujix Weekly Filters for Olympus cameras. Your best option is to buy a secondhand Fuji camera like the XT-20/30 if you like to try Film simulations or Fujix Filters...

Olympus EM5 II with Lumix 12-35mm f2.8 lens - ISO200, f6.3, 1/400 - Raw edited in WS with Color Creator.

4. Color and Monochrome Profiles

This is the final article in this 6-part series discussing Color and Creative Photography. Did you know all the color settings on your Olympus camera are available in Workspace and the Enhanced Raw Format? It's possible to tweak your Color Creator, Color Profiles, and Monochrome Profiles in Workspace. It's the only raw converter that accesses the camera's Art Processor.

I decided to rewrite this section and focus on one question only. What do we need to develop profiles, and what are the main steps when creating color or monochrome profiles?

I did only a few color profiles because I prefer how photographers benefit from learning to work with color. I hate to be the reason why photographers accept things like the "size and capture" theory. Some of the most critical skills in the modern age are critical thinking and a creative mind...

4.1 The Color Wheel

The Color Creator, the Adjust Color, and the Monochrome Profile functions are all based on the RGB Color Wheel. I created the one below as I studied my new Pen-F. I learned much from designing the color wheel and adding the specific Olympus information on the Color Wheel.

Do we need a Color Wheel like this? We don't need one because the Color Creator, the Adjust Color, and Monochrome Color Wheels are similar. These functions can be used to make quick decisions, like finding opposite colors or color harmonies. See this article for more about the Color Wheel, Opposite Colors, and Color Harmonies.

Opposite Colors are critical for Olympus. For example, how does one adjust the White Balance setting with the Green and Amber options in the SCP? Cameras like Fuji or Panasonic use a nifty color matrix function to fine-tune the WB. It relies on Opposite Colors and the Color Wheel. I added the Olympus WB adjust sliders to the Color Wheel. The opposite of amber is blue, and green is magenta. Positive values change the colors amber and green, and negative values are magenta and blue. Study the WB adjust sliders on the color wheel. Also, study the WB sliders in Workspace.

4.2 What do we need for Color Profiles?

Practice with the Color and Creative Photography functions as much as possible. Master your Olympus camera functions and Workspace. For example, do you visualize concepts like the SNR to ISO ratio or any adjustments for the Color Creator? Do you use the Color Creator?

The following illustration summarizes the Color and Creative Photography features of Olympus. We can create Color Monochrome Profiles in the camera or with Workspace. The Enhanced RAW Format helps us to test our profiles on our PCs. The only differences between Olympus cameras and Workspace are Tone Curves adjustments and the Hue and Brightness sliders for the Color Adjust function in Workspace. Only Workspace will combine multiple options like ART and Color Filters. 

The video below discusses Color and Creative editing examples. Also, see this video on how to edit your images in Workspace. These two videos give a good introduction and advanced overview of Workspace. The secret is to spend time and do lots of editing and practicing with Workspace. YouTube selected a lower resolution for this video. Goto settings and set the resolution to 1080p.

The following YouTube Video gives a short introduction and overview of FujiFilm X Raw Studio. The information will help you to see the differences. The sound is not OK. I am planning to do more recordings on Fuji.

5. Conclusion

My goal was to assist readers in learning more about the Color and Creative Photography features of Olympus. Yes, we can get similar results with Lightroom or Photoshop, but having your camera settings available in Workspace is super special. Workspace, therefore, requires a different editing style that needs time to practice and master. Workspace also works best for photographers who do things right with their cameras. Workspace is NOT a rescue package for incorrectly exposed images...

The benefit of regularly working with Workspace is your editing skills and ability to develop color profiles improve. See this article (Technique 19) for more on Workspace and working in Live View. 

It's becoming more difficult to find secondhand Pen-F cameras in excellent condition. Get yourself a Pen-F or the EP-7 if you find one in good condition. These cameras will continue to be the ultimate creative color tools for Photographers. The E-P7 and its excellent image quality are a good choice.

Here are the first 5 articles in this series below:-

• A new color strategy from Olympus, Part 1 - link
• Digital Cameras and Color Accuracy, Part 2 - link
• Color Wheel and Olympus Color Creator, Part 3 - link
• The Color Profile function in WorkSpace, Part 4 - link
• Using your camera and editing in WorkSpace, Part 5 - link