Filmmaking with the EM5 II and WorkSpace

Last Update: 17 May 2020

I recently asked the question, what happened to that great filmmaking spirit that motivated so many filmmakers of old. Home moviemakers spend hours filming the ocean, animals in the zoo, and pets playing. Did that all go away when the old film role went digital? That said, it is good to see our younger generation mastering digital video recording and video editing.

Homemade movie using simple movie-making techniques and three Olympus cameras

Many photographers and some previously enthusiast filmmakers say they do not know where to start. They feel intimidated with things like digital video formats, 8K, and supercharged PC's. Many are in the dark in terms of camera settings or what additional equipment they will need. Thinking back, my own experience was the same. It was more challenging to adapt to digital video than it was to change to digital photography.

This is not good. On the one hand forum "professionals" ask for more from manufacturers and on the other hand, potential home filmmakers feel more alienated. The question is, what can we do to help photographers enjoy video recording? I believe Olympus recognized this and that is why they added basic video recording features in their mirrorless cameras and WorkSpace.

In this article, we will take a look at video recording, video equipment, and how to set up the camera. We will study WorkSpace, and how to edit videos in WorkSpace. The aim is that readers learn the basics of how to create and edit videos for home use, YouTube, and Instagram?

What equipment do you need?

Looking at the Camera

Any of the current MFT cameras are good for video. The previous range is also good for video. This includes the EM1 II, EM5 II, Pen F, EM10 II, and the EPL8. That said one can go back to the Pen EP3, the EM5, and the EM1 and create great videos.

Any of the lenses below are good for video:-

• Olympus 12-50mm EZ Kit Lens - great for filming, benefit, the motorized zoom
• Olympus 14-42mm EZ Kit Lens - Small zoom range but with motorized zoom
• Olympus 30mm or 60mm Macro for close-ups or detail views
• Olympus 14-42mm Kit Lens - not EZ. The 2nd & 3rd generation MSC type
• Olympus Pancake Lenses - any of the fixed f1,8 focal length lenses are perfect
• Olympus 40-150mm or the 14-150mm general zoom lenses
• Any of the Olympus Pro lenses

You will need an ND filter. Variable ND filters are more practical than having two or three fixed value ND filters. Try and select lenses with the same filter diameter. The above list with lenses (Not the Pro) ranges from 46mm, 52mm, to 58mm filter diameters.

Video quality is not measured in "image sharpness". In fact, when recording at 24 frames per second the video flow has a slight blur effect. This slight blur is often named the Cinema effect. This is one of the reasons why videographers prefer lenses with a unique film look. There are several things to look for when searching for a new video lens and they are different from what photographers would look for. Videographers are more artistically inspired, probably more than photographers.

Smallrig flash mount filming handle with LED light and mic

What else will you need for video recording? The following items are practical items, but not must-have items:-

• Camera cage or camera handle that fits onto the hot shoe (see above)
• Portable (LED) light source
• An external microphone, or use a mobile phone as a recording device
• External monitor (not the recorder type)
• Tripods and reflectors

The Smallrig "Video" handle helps when filming from a lower position or when filming close to the ground. It's also good when doing unique camera movements. Used in combination with IBIS, the video handle enables the videographer to learn more complex camera movements.

I find the more I practice, the smoother my results. In fact, with a little practice and IBIS, the home moviemaker might never need a separate gimbal. Another benefit is, all the above video options will fit onto the video handle. This is great for changing the camera from video mode to photography or vice versa.

What camera settings are needed for video recording

I used an EM5 MKII for all my video recordings and the illustrations in this article. From the camera menu, select "I. Movie". See the images below and adjust your camera to mirror the settings in the pictures below.

The following is important:-

• Work with Mode-S - Shutter Priority for filmmaking (2nd image from the left)
• Set the Noise Filter to "Standard" (4th image from the left)
• Other settings - copy all the above settings to your camera
• Select the "Movie Specification Settings" menu - Press OK & copy the settings below
• Wind Noise Reduction - Always select the best option in windy conditions

In terms of image or movie sharpness, as said filmmaking is not like photography. Don't think of image sharpness when selecting video options, think data. The compression ratio determines how much data the camera records. Keep in mind the camera records 25 or 30 fully sized jpeg images per second.

The data transferred to the SD card is huge. This is why videographers use high-speed SD cards. For example, select F (above image) if you work with an older PC. In terms of SD cards, see the EM5 II specifications listed in the user manual. As long as you stay with 1080p, the EM5 MKII specification is all you will need for all the above Olympus cameras.

The basic setting selected up to this point is to prepare the camera for video recording. With the next step, we will determine the day to day video settings. Select "Movie Mode" on the camera mode dial and press OK. Next, you will see the "Live Control" below. Use the up/down arrows to scroll up or down to the video recording format. To change the video recording format, press "Info", and with the left and right keys to select the different options displayed in the image below. 

The above video format is perfect for home video recording. This video format determines:-

• The actual file compression rate SF or F (data compression or volume data)
• Frame rate (typically 25p for Europe and 30p for the US or cinema is 24p)
• Clip Recording Time (If you new to video, start with clips, its easy and works well)
• Slow-speed and high-speed recording is great for recording emotion
• Check the video format: 1080p and MOV (this should be visible in the selection)

Your camera is now ready for video recording. Similar to the SCP screen, "Live Control" offers quick access to important video settings. With Live Control, you can adjust the frame rate, change the clip recording time, select the recording speed (standard, slow or fast speed), and adjust the compression ratio from F to SF or vice versa. To disable the clips or slow/fast functions, select "Off".

Scroll up or down to activate or deactivate things like the microphone, and Picture Modes. Study the "video recording" screen below and you will see that Olympus added a few more interesting video effects at the bottom of the screen. You will find more on those in the user's manual.

Tip:- When using the camera digital zoom, change to MF. That will prevent the AF from hunting.

General video recording Tips and Techniques

A typical social media video should not be more than 4 minutes. In fact, one of the Instagram video options is only 60 seconds. People's average web attention span is between 2 and 5 minutes. In fact, I was watching a video and the presenter said the attention span is the swipe of a thumb, think of that! One can set the camera clip duration from 1, 2, 4, to 8 seconds. The aim is to record a collection of video clips related to the same storyline. The next step is to combine these clips in a storyline (video) with WorkSpace.

Press the Info button until you see the view below on your camera. Olympus cameras and WorkSpace offer basic "editing" functions. It's important to get the clip right in the camera. The first step is to set the shutter speed, to 1/50 or 1/60 depending on the frame rate (25p/24p or 30p). This is referred to as the 180-degree shutter angle. (Search my favorite videos page information on shutter angle)

With Shutter Priority selected, the camera is now in full Auto mode and will automatically select the aperture and ISO. When outside in sunny conditions, the camera will need higher shutter speeds. The challenge is the shutter speed should stay fixed at 1/50th or 1/60th. This is why we have ND filters. ND filters are used to control the amount of light reaching the sensor (exposure). Use the histogram and adjust the variable ND filter to control the final exposure.

To plan your movie or "walk my dog" report, see the points below:-

• Introduction - What can people expect (2 seconds Title or walking shoes & dog)
• The story - the story consisting of the different elements described below
• The closing - Text like "The End" or a short clip of the dog "resting" 

Use the following techniques to build the story:-

• Show an overview shot of the event, venue, or situation (slow panning movements)
• Find & record detail - zooming in, macro or close up's, focus on subjects or people
• Look for emotional moments - slow motion, close up facial shots, and/or animals

Tip:- Some Olympus cameras have a 120fps slow-motion option. Some are 720p and others 1080p. We selected 1080p for his article. That means the 720p options will not be a good fit.

See this interesting article with 7 tips on camera movements.

Additional comments and ideas

• Study YouTube videos for ideas on how to move the camera - practice & apply
• Configure the camera direction keys to control electric zoom on Oly EZ lenses
• Practice using the camera special effects (Picture Modes, Filters, Monochrome)
• Practice camera movements, working with/without the Camera Handle and IBIS
• Plan ahead, think what the final video/project will look like before recording
• Practice controlling available light using LED sources, reflectors, and flashes
• Home filmmakers do not really need Log Profiles and/or special flat profiles
• As you grow more advanced in editing, then 4K and Log Profiles are great
• Color Grading - when starting with video, Auto WB is perfectly OK and safe
• Study the Users Manual (P78-83) when it's your first Olympus video project

What you don't need

• Running in and out the camera screen to check your camera CAF
• 4K, 6K, or 8K to create great videos - 1080p or FHD is perfectly OK
• The lowest noise, highest DR, and fastest AF or the best EVF
• The best sharpest lens on the market - filming is not like photography
• Fact is, with practice Olympus cameras will deliver amazing recordings
• Panning the camera fast from left and right to test "Rolling Shutter" 

The GH1 is a classic and capable of producing great results - selling for +/- $65

Recording video clips and managing them in the camera

Follow the steps below when recording your first video clip:-

• Select the camera Movie Mode on the mode dial
• Use a storyline to help you identify which clips to record
• Fit a fixed or variable ND filter to the lens
• Set the shutter speed to 1/50th for 25p/24p or 1/60th for 30p
• Adjust the final exposure using the ND filter and check the histogram
• Select the "Clip" duration and recording speed
• Check IBIS plus digital stabilization for video is "ON" (MS1) 
• Press the "Red" recording button to start & stop the recording

While recording, you will see a small "clip" timer at the bottom right of the camera screen. When the clip is done the camera will automatically switch to the screen below.

Press the down button and follow the steps below. You can also press the Up button to review the clip. It's better to first go to the step below and review the clip later. The reason is when you review the clip first, you will not have an option to go back to the step below.

The above two images show the current projects and timelines in the camera. The first view you see is the view on the left after pressing the down arrow.

With the view on the left, you can remove clips from the timeline or start new projects. It's possible to work with multiple projects. One can move clips to the left or right on the timeline or up to "Create a New Project". One can also "Remove the Clip". The image on the right shows 2 projects. When done press OK.

Now you ready to record the next clip. Always check the clip recording time and recording speed before recording the next clip. If at any time you like to "edit" (shift clips on the timeline) while in the field, follow the steps below:-

Press the playback button to see the view on the above left. For more menu options press the OK button. This will open the menu on the right. This menu has no option to edit clips. To edit clips you need to press the Menu button to go back to the view on the left. Then turn the camera back dial one-click to the left to see the view below, on the left.

The above images show 3 steps. Follow these steps to edit or rearrange your project timeline. Press the buttons on the views in steps 1 & 2 (see the arrows). This will take you to step 3. In step 3, you select the clip you like to "edit" and press OK. This will take you to the view on the bottom left.

From the menu, select "Rearrange Order" and press OK. This will open the image on the right. Now you can move the clip to the "New" tab. You can also remove the clip. When done press OK. This will take you back to step 3. Select the next clip you like to move and press OK. Continue to apply the same sequence while editing the timeline. When done press the shutter button halfway to go back to video recording mode.

Below is an alternative method to edit the timeline.

To export the final video directly from the camera, press the image review button, and select "Export My Clips". Keep in mind exporting clips directly from the camera takes battery power and it can take a while.

When exporting the video with the camera, you need to check the following:

• Clip effects - Select one of six effects
• Transitions - Select "Fade" or "None".
• BGM - Background Music - the EM5 II has one melody pre-installed
• Clip Volume - Adjust the clip playback volume

The short video below was prepared with the EM5 MKII. When I exported the video, I selected no transitions, the Light Tone picture mode, and BGM (Back Ground Music). When uploading the video to YouTube, it is safer to upload the video in MP4 format.

In this project we selected MOV. To change the video format, open the video with Workspace and exported it again as an MP4 file. For more, see further down.

All video clips recorded with the EM5 II and the video was rendered in the EM5

Download clips from the SD card & editing in WorkSpace

Workspace has basic but functional video editing tools for beginners. They are similar to what you will see in advanced editing environments.

Please study the image below.

Workspace offers 4 easy steps to edit and prepare videos:-

1. Prepare and trim the clips with the Clip Trimming tool (Step 1)
2. Build the Timeline with the Merge Frames tool (Step 2)
3. Add external audio or music to your project
4. Export or render the final video

Follow steps 1 and 2 (see above image). If you need more information on WorkSpace, go to the help menu and download the pdf version of the WorkSpace User Manual. The image below shows how to organize your clips, where to file your "edited" clips, and how to save your final video.

Import the video clips from the SD card to the Video folder and the edited clips to the Projects folder. Give the edited clips descriptive file names and give each clip a "scene" number. When working with many clips it's important to clearly mark each clip. Study the example below.

I did not test the "add audio" or external music function on WorkSpace. Workspace does not have an audio editor. If you like to prepare separate audio files with music and sounds from the clips look for a separate audio editor you can use with your Mobile Phone.

The final step is to export your video. See the image below for more details. I used the MP4 format. When uploading MOV files to YouTube, they will be compressed and the results are not good. The export function (image below) is also a great tool to convert video formats. Open the video in WorkSpace and export it again with the new format.

Congratulations, you completed your first video project. Have fun, produce many videos, and show your grandchildren how it's done on Instagram...

Below is a video my wife recorded with her EM10 MKIII fitted with the 14-150mm. She uses full Auto Mode with no ND filters. She edits her clips in iMovie. This an example of not applying the basic video principles we covered in this article. It also shows that anything is possible.

Video clips recorded with the EM5 II and the video was prepared in WorkSpace

Final Thoughts and Q&A

How does one add Titles in WorkSpace

Olympus Workspace or the camera cannot add text to images or videos. One could prepare the text separately in Powerpoint. The idea is to then film a clip with the title:-

• Print the Powerpoint or Keynote page and film a 2s clip of the title
• For example:- Record a 2-sec clip of a black screen and then a 2-sec title clip
• The timeline will then have a 2-sec black, then the title, and then the video...
• You could also film the title clip directly from the PC screen (using a presentation)
• On my Mac, I have a screen recorder. (It records what is happening on the screen)
• With something like iMovie, text, titles, and openings are all done in iMovie

How to create separate Audio Tracks

Workspace has a basic Audio Editor but it does have the option to add separate audio tracks to the video. If you like to create a music track with a combination of sounds from your clips, try this:-

• Play the edited and ready timeline on your PC
• Simultaneously play a separate music track on your home stereo
• Adjusting the volume on these 2 tracks, use your mobile to record the final audio track
• Link the final audio track to your video with WorkSpace
• With a different editor like iMovie, this process is all done in iMovie

The above method might look like a strange technique but keep in mind it works. Add a bit of flair and creativity and you will have the necessary tools to create great video projects in WorkSpace.

How should I manage my web presence?

At the moment, much is written about vlogging and video reporting. Many photographers are discovering the power of video and people like to create holiday or event videos.

There are basically two on-line options, one is live streaming and the other is to first build the video from different clips. The first is a live event and for experienced presenters and vloggers. The second is great for storytelling and for those who prefer to control and select their best clips first and then edit a final movie. For those who are starting with a video and those who like to start a web presence, see the steps below:-

• Open a Google account which will give you access to YouTube
• Go to Google and YouTube Training Center and search for how-to videos
• The first step is to upload edited videos to YouTube
• From YouTube, share the links with friends and family
• Create an Instagram account
• Search the web for info, how to prepare images and videos for Instagram
• The final step is, be active, comment on others work, and follow people

What is the next step?

This is an open question. The options and variations to this question are endless. Keeping it simple, my advice is the following:

• Shoot longer clips to cut/edit shorter clips (from the same recording or clip).
• Move to more powerful video editing software, the options are:-
• Various iPad options of which one is iMovie
• iMovie for Mac is simple and easy to learn plus it's powerful
• I used Adobe Premiere Elements for years - great for video editing
• I stopped using Premiere Elements because it had a problem with Mac's
• I use Apple's Final Cut Pro, a professional video editing package
• Davinci from Black Magic is free for personal use and it's easy to learn
• Adding monitors, gimbals, microphones, and a camera cage
• Join groups or training courses to improve your video editing skills
• Join local clubs that do video as a hobby - its great for support

It is important to ask questions before buying new video gear. There are many great toys but chances are you will never use them.

Photoshop, PhotoLab, Luminar & WorkSpace

Last Update: 28th Nov 2020

Most photographers are familiar with Photoshop, PhotoLab 3, Luminar 4, and WorkSpace. Others use image editors like Lightroom, ON1, Capture One, or Topaz. In 2005, when I bought my first digital camera, I learned all about image editing with Photoshop Elements 2 and Paint Shop Pro.

With this article, we will take a quick look at Photoshop CC, PhotoLab 3, WorkSpace, and Luminar 4. We discuss some of the strengths and weaknesses of these editors and how they complement each other when used together in post-processing.

Olympus XZ-1 - edited with PhotoLab 3 and Luminar 4 (Sky was replaced with Luminar)

When evaluating different cameras, it is always important to rate them on how edit-friendly each camera's images are. You probably think, why do that? Some brands are just more flexible during post-processing. For example, Panasonic is known for its sharp images. That said, older Panasonics had color issues with especially skin tones, greens, and blue skies. It was difficult to correct these colors. More recent models like the GH4, GH5, and the G9 is much better.

In terms of color and image editing, my favorite brands were always Olympus and Canon. The flexibility these brands have is just great. When Olympus launched the original EM5, it felt as if the dynamic range never stopped, especially when compared to the older EP3 or the Canon 700D, which I used at the time.

Paging through my EM5 image collection and studying the images, I was happy I always selected jpeg + raw files. If you ever wondered about raw files, my advice is to start as soon as you can. The reason simply is, raw editors continue to improve every year...

Olympus EM5 w 12mm f2 Jpeg file,  ISO200, f5.6, 1/1000 (No editing - as-is from the camera)

The above image is not really great but interesting in terms of post-processing. The reason is the sky was not clear and the position of the sun not good. My camera default profile settings were set to neutral. The best would have been to take the image in the early morning or late afternoon. The reason for selecting this image was, I wanted to push it a little and study how it reacts with the different image editors. See the descriptions below each image for more information on how I edited them.

The raw file - edited with WorkSpace

Raw file - edited with DXO PhotoLab 3

Raw file - edited with Photoshop CC

Raw file - edited with Luminar 4

The above images were all taken in Lucerne, Switzerland. As you have seen in the descriptions I edited the same raw file with different image editors. If you spend enough time editing the different images, it is possible to get them to look the same. The approach will be different for each editor, but with a little patience, you will see the results you looking for.

Having said that, working with the different image editors, you also learn the strengths and weaknesses of each of these image/raw editors. If you prefer more creative freedom I think Luminar is currently the most exciting option. On the other hand, PhotoLab 3 is very true and capable, especially when combined with DXO filters like FilmPack 5 or the Nik Pro collection.

Raw file - edited with PS then opened in Luminar as a filter - EM5 w 12mm f2.0 - ISO200, F6.7, 1/1000

That said, you should not underestimate Photoshop. It does everything these different editors specialize in. The main plus something like PhotoLab 3 or Luminar 4 offer, is the low cost, ease of use, and the fun factor. I also like how DXO does its lab tests, to measure camera, and lens data. They then use this data to improve the results from PhotoLab and Filmpack. This is especially interesting for Olympus.

Olympus XZ-1, ISO100, f2.8, 1/800 (jpeg)

The above image was taken in 2012 when my wife and I visited Paris. You will see this is again not a great image because I did all the mistakes one should avoid making. For example, I pointed the camera to the sky, and the camera then exposed for the clouds. The street-level was underexposed with increased shadow noise. The little Olympus XZ-1 is way more capable when exposed correctly. 

You will see from the other examples below, I again used different editing styles with these images. Some I edited like I did with the above examples and the final image, I opened the raw file in PhotoLab, then transferred the result to Photoshop. From Photoshop I used Luminar as a filter to replace the sky. This enabled me to apply and combine the unique strengths of each editor in one editing session.

Olympus XZ-1 - raw file edited in PhotoLab 3

Below you see the different image editors I used and the order in which I spend time with each:-

1. Photoshop CC (My main creative and complete image editor plus raw converter)
2. DxO PhotoLab 3 (Probably the best raw editor, especially for Olympus)
3. Olympus WorkSpace (Excellent raw and basic jpeg editor, free for Olympus owners)
4. Luminar 4 (The AI functions are truly amazing plus layers make it a more complete editor)

I also use Aurora and DxO FilmPack 5. Years back I started with Adobe Photoshop Elements and through the years I kept an updated copy of Elements. If Adobe added curves to Elements, I would cancel my subscription and only used Elements.

Olympus XZ-1 - raw file edited in WorkSpace

When you click on the above image it will open in the web viewer. Scrolling through the different images you will see the image cropping and keystone results are different for each editor. No real reason other than I should have done a little more effort with each.

My typical raw file editing sequence looks something like this:-

1. In some cases, I open and edit in WorkSpace, then export to PS
2. More difficult scenes with image noise I edit in DXO PhotoLab 3 then export to PS
3. In most cases, I start with the raw file in PS and also complete it in PS

I prefer to have Luminar 4 and FilmPack 5 as Photoshop filters. I seldom work with Luminar 4 in standalone mode. The reason is the included image organizer. This is also the reason I do not use Lightroom... It will be so much better if Luminar and Adobe gave us the option to stop/cancel the organizer. I have a great system that works well for me and never saw the benefits of changing.

XZ-1 - edited in PhotoLab, Photoshop & Luminar 4

Different editing styles will apply to different applications. When editing for prints I am much more conservative and I will focus on colors and details aimed at printing. Editing for the web is different and more fun or experimental.

Taken with the Olympus EM5 with 14-150mm lens - ISO200, f9, 1/400 (Edited and prepared in Photoshop)

Photoshop is by far the best tool to prepare and edit panoramas. The above image consisted of 6 raw files. Photoshop compiled the final panorama in raw and I was able to do my normal raw routine with Photoshop. Interesting with Photoshop is the Content-Aware tool and how it fills in the edges in the final panorama.

Above image edited in Luminar as Photoshop filter, changed the sky, and applied various AI settings

The above panorama and the next 3 images were all taken in Miami. Using Luminar, I replaced the sky in the panorama. The sky replacement was not perfect because the replacement sky was sized for a single image and not a 6 part panorama. The raw post-processing with the next 3 images started in PhotoLab 3, then exported to Photoshop. From Photoshop I used Luminar 4 as a filter to edited any special effects.

Olympus EM5 w 14-50mm, ISO200, f7.2, 1/640 (PhotoLab 3 plus Photoshop plus Luminar - no sky replacement)

Olympus EM5 w 14-150mm, ISO200, f6.3, 1/800 (PhotoLab 3 plus Photoshop plus Luminar - no sky replacement)

Taken with the EM5, raw file edited - I let you guess what was done with this image...

The next two images were taken in Germany in a lovely village close to Frankfurt. You can literally spend weeks in this village and create many masterpieces...

Olympus EM5 with 14mm f2.5 - ISO800, f3.5, 1/60 (Raw edited in PhotoLab 3 and completed in Photoshop)

The same image edited in Luminar - sky replacement, added glow, and a few other AI adjustments

The next two images were taken in 2007 when I visited Nürnberg. The images were taken with the G7 and the E410. The E410 was in raw format and the G7 in jpeg format. When comparing these results with those I edited in 2007, the difference is day and night. One can literally spend hours going back a few years and re-process raw files...

Olympus E410 with 14-42mm Kit Lens, ISO100 - Edited with PhotoLab 3 and Photoshop

Canon Powershot G7 - ISO80, f4.0, 1/500 - Edited with PhotoLab 3, Photoshop, and Luminar 4

The time I spend editing the different images in this article was less than 5 minutes each. Normally I spend more time per image. The fun factor of working with these different editors is huge. One of my next projects will be to take more and exciting skies for Luminar 4. This is probably the most fun aspect of Luminar 4.

Do you need to have all these different editing tools? Anyone of the editors discussed in this article is great and more than enough. If I had to recommend an editor or filter option, my choice would be Luminar 4. WorkSpace combined with Luminar 4 is more than enough and really powerful.

Olympus EM5 with 12mm f2.0 - ISO200, f9.5, 1/500 - (Raw file edited in PhotoLab 3)

Edited in PhotoLab 3, then transferred to Photoshop and sky replacement in Luminar 4

When you study the above image you will see I replaced the sky. Can you see the mistake? This is an important question because the final result should always look realistic... See my Instagram account for more examples. (TIP:- look at the sun)

The images below were all taken in different locations like South Africa, Switzerland, and Sardinian. I used different editing combinations with different editors...

Panasonic LX100 - ISO640, f5.6, 1/60 - Raw file edited with PhotoLab 3

Olympus EM5 II with 14-150mm MKII - f5.6, 1/640 - Raw file edited with PhotoLab 3

Olympus EM5 II with 12-50mm - ISO200, f5, 1/200 - Raw edited with Photoshop and refined in Luminar 4

Olympus EM5 II with 17mm f1.8 - ISO200, f4.5, 1/1000 (ETTR +0.7EV) - Raw edited with PS and Luminar 4

Oly E-620 with 18-180mm - ISO100, f11, 1/100 - Raw edited with PS, then edited in Luminar 4 (no sky replacement)

Auto-Focus Techniques and Focussing Points

Last Updated:- 15th December 2021

Introduction

In this short article, we will study the image look at different focus points, focal lengths, and apertures. How does the focus point influence the look of the image and what happens if we change the aperture, focus point, or the size of the sensor?

For example, if you are looking for a new lens and the salesman mentions Depth Of Field or Hyperfocal Length, are you OK with these terms? In this short article, we will also look at how to select a new lens and why it's a good idea to select a lens for the right application.

Let's look at a definition for Depth-Of-Field (DOF) so that we are all on the same page. See the definition from Wikipedia below:

For most cameras, depth of field (DOF) is the distance 

between the nearest and the farthest objects that 

are acceptably sharp in an image.

Why would photographers want background blur or a nice bokeh? Why would they isolate subjects from the background? What is the so-called cinematic look? How does videography impact the use of depth of field or what do videographers want from the various focusing techniques?

Over the past 10 years, we saw how photographers progressively gave away more control to the camera. Automated functions became increasingly more dominant each year and in the process, photographers even started to question proven photography principles. 

Mirrorless cameras now apply built-in lens corrections and mobiles phones made it possible for anyone to now isolate subjects with a simple App. Do we still need to consider old-school photography techniques or should we only rely on the digital camera?

Canon 650D with 15-85mm - f9, 1/125, ISO200 (Used Kodak Porta film simulation with DXO FilmPack 5)

Let's ignore AI for a moment, mobile phones, and things like sensor size, dynamic range, and Auto Focus (Contrast/Phase Detect). Step back 50 years and let's look at photographers from that era. I bet, they will challenge us with questions like:-

• What criteria will you use when you select and purchase your next lens?
• Hyperfocal distance, Depth of Field, acceptable sharpness, circles of confusion
• Focus twice the distance to the nearest subject or focus one third into the scene
• Lens design, number of lens elements, lens groups, and how it impacts the lens?
• Testing your lenses, how to determine your lens sweet spot and diffraction point?
• Video recording introduced new rules with new lens variables, or are they new?
• Start using full Manual Exposure or continue using Auto Mode in A or S-Mode.
• Did you ask yourself, why does the Olympus wide-angle 12mm lens have f2?
• What about the backlighting or from the side, how does it impact your image
• How about the right lens, focal length, and using infinity FL on your lens

Those, not 100% familiar with Depth of Field (DOF), HyperFocal distance, or Circles of Confusion, or the infinity method, please have a quick look at the articles below:

Link 1:- A great article about sharpness, lens sweet spot, and the App we will discuss...
Link 2:- A great article about focusing techniques, all you need to know about focus...
Link 3:- A quick and simple technique to determine Hyper Focal Distance... great article
Link 4:- An article discussing how to use Hyperfocal distance for landscape photography
Link 5:- The App (OptimumCS-Pro) we will be discussing in this article... pls study
Link 6:- One final idea and a great practical example using the CS Pro App... a great read

Link 7:- Great presentation on infinity focusing techniques at Photography on Line...

Olympus EM1 with 60mm f2.8 Macro Lens - f7.1, 1/125, ISO100 - (Fuji Velvia film simulation with DXO FilmPack 5)

Here is a short summary of the key points in the above articles:

• Top lens sharpness (sweet spot) is typically +2 stops above the widest aperture
• Lens sharpness is determined by the aperture de-focus blur or its diffraction blur
• A long focal length offers a better illusion compression than a wide-angle lens
• Wide-angle lenses are more effective when used with large depth-of-field applications
• Large sensors need a smaller aperture for the equivalent DOF as smaller sensors

Different focusing features and techniques with MF and AF:

• Use full Auto Mode, AF (SAF or CAF) when doing street or landscape photography
• Selecting the focus point at double the distance from the closest "sharp" subject
• Thirds focussing rule, for max DOF, select a point one third into the scene and focus
• Using the camera preview button, available on most OMD cameras - see Link 3
• Manual Focus - various MF assist features like Pre-MF, magnify, and peaking
• Selecting the right lens and infinity focusing technique to ensure an infinite DOF

The OptimumCS-Pro and Simple DoF Applications

A quick look at the OptimumCS-Pro App. I trust you studied the information in the above articles and are familiar with the CS Pro App. Did you install the above Apps on your mobile phone?

When we photograph at a too wide aperture, we could lose image resolution because of defocusing (the blurring of objects in the front and back of the focus point); and vice versa with a too narrow aperture, we could lose sharpness due to diffraction. So we always need to think about the optimum aperture setting and focusing distance. The CS-Pro application can help us with that.

How does this app work? The app looks at sensor size, focal length, distance from the closest point to the furthest point that needs to be in focus. It then calculates the aperture and the focus point at double the distance from the closest focus point.

The Simple DoF App is free and easy to use. It calculates the hyper-focal distance for each lens, focal length, distance, and aperture. For those new to the App, it's important to practice first, before using it on critical projects. Having had the app on my phone for several months, I do use it from time to time but I found it's more valuable for learning purposes than my day-to-day photography.

Let's try the App and see what we learn about the Olympus 17mm f1,8 and the 12mm f2,0 fixed focal length lenses. Which apertures and what focus distance will work best to achieve an acceptable depth of field? I noticed that the lens data you will use with the App is those displayed on the lens and not the full-frame equivalent.

There are basically 4 ways to select a focus point:

1. Using full Auto (A-Mode) and focussing on the far distance using f5,6 to f8.0
2. Use mobile phone apps like simple DOF and CS Pro app, to calculate camera settings
3. Select the closest focus point in the scene and set the focus point at double that distance 
4. Select an appropriate aperture and then use the rule of 3rds to determine the focus point

Pen F w Lumix 14-140mm - ISO200, f5,6 1/200

1. Using full auto A-Mode, AF, and f5,6 to f8

To use this method it is important to have a good understanding of what lens to select for every scene or photo application. The ideal is you tried and tested all your lenses, you know the best aperture (sweet spot) for each lens and you experimented with selecting different apertures for street, landscape, product, and portrait applications. When you apply these rules you will find they become second nature. Let's have a quick look at the following lenses:

Olympus 17mm f1,8

For example, we know when doing street photography in crowded areas, the camera will select an AF point reasonably close to the camera. Let's see if that will support a preferred DOF from 1,5m to 30m. Using the Simple DOF and the OptimumCS-Pro applications, we see when selecting an aperture from f6,3 to f7,1 and a focal distance starting from 2,7m to 4m, the DOF will be from 2m to infinity.

Testing the 17mm f1,8 you will find its sharpest aperture is between f4 and f7,1. With a little practice, you will see that you can safely dial in an aperture of f7,1 for both street and landscape photography. For portraits, you will typically work with apertures ranging from f1,8 to f4.

Olympus 17mm f1,8 best DOF settings

Olympus 12mm f2,0

Peter Forsgård proposed using a wide-angle lens with apertures f5,6 to f8 for one month. Using the above applications, we see the advantage of WA lenses is the closer in-focus distance to the camera, and the wide-angle lens DOF characteristics tend to benefit a wider range of photography applications.

Studying the above examples we see the 17mm f1,8 hyper-focal distance was 1,4m. The CS-Pro App proposed a focal length of 4m. This is important when you need the foreground sharp. The general habit of focussing on a far distant point is therefore not ideal.

Repeating the above exercise with lenses like the Olympus 12mm, 17mm, and 25mm, you will find they are all great for street or landscape photography. The 45mm, 60mm, and 75mm lenses lean more towards portrait or product photography. Applying the same process you will see the 9-18mm f4 or the 12-50mm kit lenses are great for a wide range of applications.

To set up the camera so you can safely focus at any point, then lift your camera, reframe the image and take the shot, see this article. Look for - "Customizing the camera AEL and AFL"

2. Hyperfocal Distance Method

(Using only the Simple DOF App)

Looking at a hyperfocal distance I wanted to see the results when using the settings suggested by the App. I also selected to use a fixed MF distance. See the calculated results from the app below. See if you get the same results I did.

Olympus MFT lens 12mm f2,0

- Using f7,1 everything from 1.2m to infinity will be in focus
- Set the camera FL to 2m (MF or SAF)
- Hyperfocal distance is 1.4m

Olympus MFT lens 17mm f1,8

- Using f8 everything from 1.7m to infinity will be in focus
- Set the camera FL to 3m (MF or SAF)
- Hyperfocal distance is 2.4m

Sony A7 III lens 34mm f2,8

- Using f8 everything from 2.5m to infinity will be in focus
- Set the camera FL to 5m (MF or AFS)
- Hyperfocal distance is 4.9m

Pen F w Lumix 14-140mm - ISO200 f5,6 1/400

3. Using the OptimumCS-Pro App

With this example, I again selected MF to test what the results will look like when using the settings suggested by the CS-Pro app. See the results below. Again see if you get the same results I did.

Olympus MFT lens 12mm f2,0

- Using f7,1 everything from 1m to infinity will be in focus
- Set Focal Length to 2m (MF or SAF)

Olympus MFT lens 17mm f1,8

- Using f7,1 everything from 2m to infinity will be in focus
- Set Focal Length to 4m (MF or SAF)

Sony A7 III lens 34mm f2,8

- Using f13 everything from 2.5m to infinity will be in focus
- Set Focal Length to 5m (MF or SAF)

What's really interesting about using this method was finding the right focus point. I ended up using another app on my phone that only measures distance. When the app recommended a focus point of 2 meters, I used the other app to measure that distance so I could mark a focus point. I would then manually focus on that point.

Another interesting thing I noticed was the camera reacts differently in Manual Mode and Auto Exposure. The camera seems to "automatically" optimize the DOF when in Auto Mode. When in Manual Mode this was not the case. This happened with both the A7 III and the EM1 II.

4. Using the thirds and doubling subject distance, focussing methods

Considering what we learned, I see this final method as a practical example as it summarizes what experienced photographers have been doing for years.

Setting up a home studio

Let's look at how to set up a home studio for a new YouTube channel. We will look at the lens and the position of the camera in relation to the target. What focusing method will you use?

We often see camera reviewers walking around in a video to test and demonstrate the camera's CAF abilities. Do we really need this kind of CAF capability when setting up a simple home studio? Let's assume your home study consist of a desk, a chair, and something like a green backdrop. Considering what we discussed, we can now calculate the preferred aperture and focusing distances. This enables us to use older cameras like the Panasonic GH4, the EM10 II with MF, and save money.

You can select any focal length ranging from 12mm to 25mm. I used the 17mm f1,8 and the Olympus 25mm f1,8 for this example.

• Olympus 17mm f1,8 is camera A
• Olympus 25mm f1,8 is camera B and C (One could also a 45mm f1,8 for C)

I like to have a DOF from the center of the table to +2m behind the chair. See the CS Pro results below.

With a single camera set-up, you will select either camera A fitted with the 17mm lens or camera B with the 25mm lens. The key is the lens FOV (Field of View). If you prefer an upper body with a face view, the 25mm will work well, and if you prefer to have part of the desk included you will select the 17mm. This example is not an exact design, you still need to calculate the details. Camera C is meant for product views, that is if you like to have detailed product views in your presentation video.

Selecting an aperture and focus point for landscape images

One can use any application to calculate the best focal distance for a landscape. As said, it is key you practice with your camera. The practical experience provides a good feel for what works best for you. My personal lens preference for landscape photography is 9mm to 25mm. I test each of my lenses and then record the results in my aperture "sweet spot" notes book. My preferred landscape apertures range from f5,6 to f7,1, and in some cases, I will go up to f8.

The key is not to focus on the far distance but to select the "best" focus point. I prefer to use the rule of thirds to determine my focus point. I will then use SAF in Mode 2. This is similar to the back focus technique and enables me to select a focus point, move the camera, reframe, and take the image. See this article for more on this focussing technique.

The thirds method works on the principle that the distance from your camera to the focal point should be a thirds distance into the scene. That means everything twice that distance behind the focal point will be in focus. The closest in-focus point will depend on the lens aperture and the lens FL. This is the reason we prefer to focus on the first thirds when doing landscape photography. Again, you need to practice this method and experiment until you are comfortable with the results and your camera.

One more focusing method - Focus Stacking

In more serious cases photographers prefer to use focus stacking. Some Olympus cameras do this all automatically inside the camera. Others will take the stacked images and as explained in this video, create the final image in Photoshop. When watching the video, think of where you will select the different focal points for each stacked image. In other words, break each stacked scene up into thirds and select the focal point on the first third. (What camera did the presenter use, a crop sensor, or a FF camera?)

My final thoughts

Preparing for this article I spend a lot of time and I took many images while testing the two Apps. I was trying different focussing techniques like MF, SAF, and CAF. I was looking at what works best, a single AF point, 9 group AF points, and more. Each time I came back to the single AF point placed in the center of the camera screen. I also preferred MF or SAF depending on the situation.

I often used my EM1 II together with my A7 III. Interestingly, the A7 III images are more detailed than the EM1 II and one would expect that (24MP versus 20MP). That said, the closer I get to my camera/lens combination "perfect" settings, the smaller these differences are. Practicing with your camera and finding those sweet spots and best settings will result in significant image quality improvements.

The worst thing you can do is buy a lens, have no sweet spot or preferred aperture strategy, focus in the far distance, and expect great results...