Advanced Exposure Techniques and Workspace

Last updated:- 17th March 2024

Introduction

I lost my left arm in a motorcar accident and have been on pain medication ever since. It's difficult to say which is worse, losing my left arm or the opioid-based pain medication. My wife and I worked hard to reduce my pain medication, and we reached the point of cutting it completely. Those who followed my blog know how it benefitted me personally and my ability to write better articles.

I bought my first digital camera in 1998, which also started my craving for that perfect digital camera promoted by camera reviewers and social media experts. Breaking free from commercially biased theories, repetition, and the collective social media influence is similar to walking away from addictive medication. I can write a book about these processes and the similarities...

Olympus EM5 II with 25mm f1.4 Leica - ISO800, f3.2, 1/25 - Enhanced Raw File converted in WS. I used my ISO to control the highlights.

I use a simple strategy or rule when studying technical info. I reject any "interesting" information that does not improve my photography. My understanding and articles about digital cameras focus on information that improves the average photographer's image quality. My regular readers appreciate the benefits of marketing free camera knowledge. This is an ongoing learning experience...

The technical aspects of cameras interest me the most. My wife and I enjoy taking photos and using them in different projects. We love photography and regard ourselves as hobby photographers.

Fuji FinePix A201 (2MP) compact camera. ISO100, f4.5, 1/45 seconds. Slightly edited in Photoshop.

My focus in 2024 and onward...

The challenge of learning and growing the MyOlympuOMD blog impacted my recovery positively. I will continue to develop the blog and plan to focus on used Olympus cameras while we are waiting for a real OM-System camera. This includes exploring unique cameras like the Fuji XT-5, the Sony ZV-E1, the Panasonic GM-1, and the EP-7. I also plan to create more YouTube videos in 2024. 

My focus will be the following subjects for this blog and YouTube:

• Videography with basic principles, casual videos, and documentaries
• Digital camera knowledge and techniques improving our photography
• OM Workspace, the Enhanced Raw Format, and general photo editing
• I am planning to write informative articles on older Olympus cameras

My first two videos for 2024

I uploaded 2 YouTube videos over the past 8 days. They give an overview of my articles on exposure and Workspace and will benefit those who prefer watching a video. I will create shorter videos in the future that will focus on specifics. I am working on my sound quality and will have a solution for my next video. Please subscribe to my YouTube channel and post your thoughts in the comments.

Color and FX-Blue Chrome effect for Olympus

Last Updated:- 3rd February 2024

Introduction

The illustration below is a screen copy of my Workspace "before/after" display. Study the links below for a description of the Fuji Color and FX-Blue Chrome effects. I combined these descriptions into one beta Chrome Effect for Olympus. The Fuji Color Chrome effects work for all Fuji "Picture Modes," whereas the Olympus Color Adjust function only works in the "Natural" Picture Mode. The final Fuji Chrome Series for Olympus cameras could be 3 chrome profiles. (Color, blue, and combined)

This short article discusses two processes for developing a new profile. Why are the Olympus EP-7 and Pen-F so different? All digital cameras work with global adjustments like saturation, color filters, and White Balance. They require a good understanding of working with Opposite Colors. For example, the Olympus Color Creator and White Balance functions use analogous and/or opposite colors. Only the Color Adjust Tool of Workspace, Pen-F, and EP-7 target specific colors in the image.

Fujifilm Color-Chrome Effect - link

Fujifilm FX-Blue Chrome Effect - link

Olympus Pen F with beta Chrome profile.

Fuji Color and FX-Blue Chrome Effect - Version 1

The unique aspect of this Chrome effect is the steps I used to create the profile. The profile is my reaction to the two articles discussing the Fuji Color and FX-Blue Chrome effects. This can happen to anyone seeing or learning something new and like to express that experience in a color profile.

Download this 1st beta "Color and FX-Blue Chrome.oes" profile. Use the Batch tool in Workspace to open and save the profile on your PC. See my Workspace How-to page for more...

Fuji Color and FX-Blue Chrome Profile.

The Fuji Color plus FX-Blue Chrome Profile is designed for the Pen-F, EP-7, and compatible OMDs. For example, I successfully tried the profile on Raw files from my EM10 II and the original EM-1. Only the Pen F and EP-7 have the Color Adjust function and will accept Color Profiles. The alternative is to apply these profiles via the Enhanced Raw Format to compatible Pen and OMD cameras.

Study the above profile data (summary) and the steps below to tweak the profile:

1. Use the "Auto" option for your WB, or select a unique WB. (Critical step) 
2. Use Exposure compensation and the histogram to set the ISO brightness.
3. Use the different Tone Adjustments to tweak the camera's Gamma Curve.
4. Some Olympus cameras, like the EM10 II, do not have a Midtones Slider.
5. Use Exposure Compensation for those cameras lacking a Midtones Slider.
6. The Auto or Normal Gradation option varies your final Tone Curve shape.

Olympus EM1 II with 18mm f1.8 lens - ISO200, f7.1, 1/800. The Enhanced Raw File was converted with the Fuji Chrome Profile.

The Tonal Adjustments in the Camera and Workspace are Gradation, Shadows/Midtones/Highlights, and the Workspace Tone Curve option. Why do we need ISO brightness (EC) and separate Tonal Data Adjustments? Workspace and the camera's Gamma Curve convert the sensor's linear raw data to a human (JPEG) format. Tonal adjustments let us tweak the Gamma Curve in the camera and Workspace. Exposure Compensation (ISO) is part of the camera's Exposure Formula.

Study this article for more on exposure compensation, image brightness, and ISO.

Olympus E-P7 with 17mm f1.8 lens - ISO100, f8.0, 1/200. The enhanced Raw File was converted with the Fuji Chrome Profile.

Use the Color Adjust tool of Workspace to tweak the Chrome effect. I studied the above information from Fuji and converted +/-50 Enhanced Raw Files to create this Beta profile. What is the next step? The next version of the Fuji Color Chrome effect will be based on Color Cards and Test Images from my Fuji XT-5 and the Olympus Pen-F. Mail me your feedback or input for the 2nd version.

An example of using multiple steps. 1. Tweak the Natural Picture Mode. 2. Tweak the Color Style. 3. Image jpeg adjustments.

One could also use multiple steps to create a unique image look. This is a more advanced option because the different steps happen simultaneously. We can add another level with the Luminance and Hue options of the Color Adjust tool. The Pen F and EP-7 do not have these options. The first step is global adjustments (opposite colors), and the second is specific colors. (Adjust Color Function)

For example:

1. Tweak the Picture Mode via Color Filters and the White Balance.
2. Tweak the colors in the Color Style with the Adjust Color function.
3. Jpeg adjustments like Contrast, Saturation, Clarity, Dehaze, and Sharpness. 

Olympus Pen-F with the 9-18mm f4-5.6 lens - ISO200, f4.5, 1/1250 - Version 2 of the Color Chrome effect.

Fuji Color and FX-Blue Chrome Effect - Version 2

I used a "controlled" studio, standard camera settings, and Color Cards. Both cameras were in Manual Mode, with the XT-5 at ISO125 and the Pen F at ISO200. That meant I needed to correct the ISO brightness of the XT-5's raw sample in Fuji's X Raw Studio. I exported the different raw images as 16-bit Tiffs. That meant the color samples were ready for Workspace and the Adjust Color tool.

I used these 16-bit samples in the "Compare Multiple Images" display of Workspace. This enabled me to copy the XT-5 "chrome effect" and transfer it to the Pen F color card. The illustration below shows the original and the new Adjust Color Style for my Fuji Color and FX-Blue Chrome effect. 

You are welcome to download the new version here. - link

What is the main difference between these profiles? The Color Cards allowed me to create a more accurate version of the Fuji Color and FX-Blue Chrome effect. Only the Adjust Color tool has the new Color Style values. None of the other functions were used to create the new Color Style. This allowed me to use default values for the remaining Camera and Workspace settings. Verify that only the Adjust Color tool was adjusted before you continue to edit the profile in Workspace.

The previous version of the Fuji Chrome Profile was created from the information I found. The profile consisted of a combination of the Adjust Color function and other image settings. As can be seen, this method is not necessarily incorrect. It's simply a creative reaction to general information. The second method is more reliable because I used a different Color Card for each camera.

The new Fuji Color and FX-Blue Chrome effect has a specific Color Style. We only need the color style to apply the new profile. Any other image tweaks, like Tonal Adjustments, are unique to the scene. This makes the new profile very unique. It lets users develop a basic step-by-step process for using the profile and editing images with the new Fuji Color and FX-Blue Chrome effect.

Olympus OM10 II with 17mm f1.8 lens - ISO200, f3.2, 1/2500. Workspace with Version 2 of the Fuji Chrome effect.

More info on the Fuji V2 Chrome Effect? The final profile is not only more accurate, but it is also more user-friendly. How could that be? Workspace has become my default raw converter and editor in the past two years. Workspace and Photoshop cover +95% of my editing needs. I export my converted 16-bit Tiff files to Photoshop. Like everything, the more we use it, the more we learn.

The new profile highlights one of the main differences between Olympus and other brands. Almost all brands use global adjustments, whereas Workspace, the Pen-f, and the E-P7 allow us to adjust global and targetted colors. Targeted colors are unique for Workspace, Pen-F, and the EP-7. What makes it different is that the camera's Adjust Color Style is part of the Enhanced Raw Format.

Olympus Pen-F with 17mm f1.8 and the new Fuji Color Chrome effect.

It's critical to master the main difference between targeted and global settings. The Color Creator is an example of using Global Settings. The Color Creator, White Balance, and Color Filters change the selected and opposite colors. Color profiles created with Global Adjustments need additional steps, like tweaking the Image jpeg Settings. Targeted color profiles are only done in the Adjust Color tool. The resulting configuration defines the new Color Style. That means more freedom to edit and tweak the remaining image (scene) settings because the Color Style stays fixed.

How to use the new Fuji Color Chrome Profile? The first step is studying the above chart. The next step is downloading the new profile. Save it in your Workspace profile folder.

Do the following steps to open and edit your Fuji Color Chrome effect in Workspace:

• Open any Pen-F or EM1 Raw file and select the "Load Batch Processing file" option.
• View the camera settings in Workspace. You will see only the Adjust Color was used.
• The Adjust Color settings show the Color Style. That means you have the right profile.
• Study the above chart for tips to tweak and edit your image. Apply small adjustments.
• You can apply the following editing steps in Workspace:-
• Focus on the critical Raw settings like (ISO) Exposure Compensation and WB.
• The next step is to tweak the Gamma Curve with different Tonal Adjustments.
• The final step is typical Jpeg Image Adjustments and the Noise Filter selection.
• Adjust the Fuji Color Chrome effect (Weak/Strong) with the Adjust Color function.

Olympus Pen-F with 9-18mm F4 lens - ISO200, f4, 1/1000. The Pen-F with the Fuji Color and FX-Blue Chrome effect.

Everyone should try the color samples below to create a Fuji Color Chrome effect. For example, I only used saturation with the Adjust Color function. You could add Hue and Luminance adjustments for a more accurate profile. I used saturation adjustments in Workspace because I wanted the new Fuji Color Chrome Profile ready for my Olympus Pen-F and the EP-7.

Conclusion

The next step is taking a few images with my Fuji XT-5 and Olympus Pen-F. This is the best way to test the new Fuji Color and FX-Blue Chrome effect for Olympus. The challenge is the winter season, with poor conditions and cold photo walks. That means my final testing will wait a while...

Best Regards

Siegfried

Olympus EP-7 with 17mm f2.8 lens - ISO200, f5, 1/200. The EP-7 image with the Fuji Color and FX-Blue Chrome effect.

Use these Color Samples and Workspace to create your Chrome Profile.

Top Intel iMacs for Photographers...

Last updated:- 15th September 2023

The kind of iMac and processing power you need are regulated by the software applications plus AI features you have. See this article and my Workspace Update Page (firmware) discussing why I upgraded my iMac. Being in the market for a new PC, I quickly realized I needed more time to find the right photography solution. It's impossible to configure a good photography solution with the technical and advertising information from Apple. I used this website as a technical reference. 

Apple upgraded their iMacs in 2014, 2015, 2017, 2019 and onwards. After much research, I decided to look for an Intel 4-Core i7 (4.2GHz), 5K display 27", 64GB (2666MHz DDR4) RAM, AMD Radeon Pro 580 Graphics (8GB), an SSD hard drive, and similar ports as my old iMac. I learned how secondhand iMacs are the best way to find a photography configuration for under $900.

Higher rating i5 or i7 Processors with 4GB and higher graphic cards are enough for most photography applications. It was expensive to increase the RAM memory when these iMacs were new. For example, users could add more RAM memory on pre-2017 models after receiving the iMac. These RAM modules are now available at a fraction of the original Apple pricing.

Used iMacs are great business opportunities for those trading in secondhand computers, and patience is the best advice for those purchasing a used iMac. The safest option is to work with official Apple dealers or target the owners directly. Apple has excellent info on its support site. For example, what should one verify when buying a used iMac? I created a list of questions I asked before making an offer. This made it possible to cancel if I found any issues while collecting a used iMac.

What about 4K video editing and converting large numbers of RAW files? Each photographer needs to be specific on what they need. For example, you don't need 4K editing if you are new to video. As high as 95% of homemade videos are perfectly good at 1080P. My "new" iMac edits and renders 4K videos. Processing 4K videos versus 1080p means significant performance increases. 4K videos also use 4 times the pixels as 1080p recordings, and most viewers won't spot the difference...

Buying a secondhand iMac was a process of making compromises. For example, the 2020 Intel i9 Pro iMac is great if you are ready for the expense, whereas the costs decrease on older iMacs, while the risk of a burned-in display increases. These older Intel iMacs are excellent PCs and perfect for those on a budget. The key is preparation and patience when buying or collecting a used iMac.

Any of the above examples are excellent photography solutions, and the i5 iMacs with 4GB graphic cards are great photography alternatives. For example, the 2015/17 (i5/i7) iMacs with 4GB or 8GB graphic cards became my Performance/Cost favorites. Study the i5 details right above the i7 line on this website. This site has more technical information to help you specify your used iMac.

Conclusion

Why not a 24" iMac with an M1 or M2 Apple Processor? I bought the 2017 Intel iMac (above spec), which consistently outperforms my Macbook Pro M1 with 16GB RAM. I photograph almost every day in the summer, and I have been editing my Enhanced Raw Files on my Intel iMac and Macbook M1 Pro. Interestingly, the older i7 Processor outperforms the M1 Processor with Workspace, Photoshop CC, iMovie, Final Cut Pro, PhotoLab 6, and the different office applications I have...

The 27" display is also fantastic for video or photo editing. I often process the same images on my iMac and Macbook Pro. The MacBook Pro cannot compete with the larger display of the iMac. My wife tried my 27" iMac 2013 but preferred her 2012 Mac Mini with the 24" Apple Cinema Display. The final PC configuration you select should work for YOU...

What about Workspace? I am satisfied because the "new" iMac made a huge difference. Workspace, Photoshop, and Photolab are quick, and I experienced no negatives. My only concern is the high level of access some applications request during the installation. Fortunately, it's possible to manage the level of access these software applications receive. It pays to carefully configure your iMac...

Don't let promoters confuse you to spend way too much...

Best

Siegfried

Photographing the city of Prague with my EM5 II...

 Last update:- 22nd August 2023

Specifying a new PC, social media feedback, and finding information felt like a sailboat tacking back and forth to its destination. Knowledge and experience helped me to spec my "photography" iMac and create a basic diagram to help me evaluate the different iMac options and configurations.

I also benchmarked my existing iMac to my Mackbook Pro M1 while editing some of my images and video clips of Prague. My current iMac is 10 years old and the same one I used to process my Prague photos in 2015. I am preparing a new article to review the process of upgrading my iMac. This article focuses on Prague and the software I used to re-edit my Enhanced Raw Files in 2023...

The images in this article were taken with the Olympus EM-5 II and the MZuiko 12-50mm f3.5 - 6.3 EZ kit lens.

I was stunned by the added flexibility of processing my EM5 II raw files in 2023. I recall editing them in 2015 and the frustration of having reasonable results. The question is, what changed in 2023? Did Workspace, the Enhanced Raw Format, or editing software like Photoshop and PhotoLab improve enough to make a difference? How much was my personal growth over the past 8 years?

This is the jpeg image from my Olympus EM5 II with the Pop ART II filter.

Are 10 years of editing enough to bridge the hardware limitations of my iMac? I never experienced my iMac as outdated because it worked well every day. The most recent update to Workspace V2,2 reminded me that my iMac was 10 years old. What followed were questions like, should I consider a new iMac for the next 5 or 10 years, and should I get a new or secondhand iMac...

I couldn't stop thinking about these raw files and the good results of the past two weeks. How did the EM5 II manage this level of data with an older sensor? The low noise levels of the night or blue-hour scenes surprised me the most. Are these levels of image quality possible with an older M43 camera or a reason why the EM5 II continues to be an excellent mirrorless camera in 2023?

My Exif data showed I used an exposure shift and/or compensation of up to +0.6EV. This benefitted the saturation level of the EM5 sensor. More Exif data revealed that my ISO was often at ISO200. I recalled having a tripod ready when I discussed this with my wife. This explains the good EM5 II results. I used a steady tripod platform, and ISO200 helped me to saturate the sensor. The only thing left was to purposely improve the tonal data of my images. If I only knew more in 2015...

Saturating the sensor simply means flooding the sensor with light...

For more on this subject, study this article.

Live COMP, BULB, or COMP would have been interesting for this scene...

My knowledge of digital cameras was limited to a short list of marketing filters in 2015. For example, I never tried to improve the tonal data of my recordings and never used the High-Resolution function of the EM5 II. Just imagine I had 40MP available and never used it...

Editing the Enhanced Raw Files from Prague left such a positive impression that I decided to spend more time with my EM5 II. Yes, my focus is shifting back to older Olympus cameras...

The above image is an example of three bracketed raw files. I benefitted from having a steady tripod platform and processing my HDR shots with Photoshop. See this interesting article...

Workspace works best with accurate WB and Exposure measurements. My editing sequence starts by converting my Enhanced Raw Files with Workspace and editing the converted 16-bit Tiff files with Photoshop. I use PhotoLab for the more challenging cases and Photoshop for my HDR or final editing steps. I applied all these editing options in this short article about my photos of Prague.

An example of replacing the sky with the 2022 version of Photoshop CC.

The combination of Workspace and skilled photographers is powerful. No other editing software uses the same Image Processing as your Olympus camera or enables us to edit our camera settings. This is why the combination of Olympus cameras and Workspace is so fascinating. I still have some older Four-Thirds E-Series cameras from Olympus, and they all benefit from Workspace and the Enhanced Raw Format. This is one of the biggest unknowns of OM-System and its future vision...

I remember being a little frustrated as we landed in Prague. The skies were filled with clouds, and I typically avoid diffused conditions like this. I didn't know much about managing my image sensor's performance and decided to use ART Filters in Prague. The disadvantage of diffused conditions is having weaker shadows. I like the 3D effect one gets from stronger shadow contrasts.

It was a pleasant experience to re-edit these Enhanced Raw Files in 2023. The Enhanced Raw Format enabled me to deselect the Pop Art Filter in Workspace. The rest was a simple process of re-living my stay in Prague and converting my raw files to the way I remembered the city of Prague.

Another sky replacement with Photoshop...

I converted the 3 raw photos below with PhotoLab 6. DxO PhotoLab is one of the best applications for rescuing difficult or incorrectly exposed raw files. Workspace is not a recovery service. 

XXX