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Feb 19, 2021

Do I need to personalise my image style?

Last Update: 31st July 2023

Are you ready to create camera profiles with Workspace? Our ability to trace the image signal from the subject to the SD card improved over the past 3 years. This knowledge lets us do more with our Olympus cameras and WorkSpace. Let's discuss the benefits of knowing your camera and what we should know when photographing with Olympus cameras and editing with Workspace.


2MP FinepixA201 from 2002. Edited with Photoshop.

The Content:-

  1. Introduction
  2. Considering extremes and having a personalized style
  3. How do we pre-edit what we see in Live View
  4. A different way of creating your own image style
  5. What does a personal image style look like?
  6. Interesting editing Tips...
  7. Conclusion
Also, see my other articles about WorkSpace:-

- The Enhanced Raw Format and Live View - link
- WorkSpace, the new Olympus image editor - link
- Workspace how-to page - Tips and tricks for WS - link
- Image editing with Olympus cameras and WS - link
- Olympus Pen F color and monochrome profiles - link
- Olympus Color and Creative Photography - Part 6 - link
- Filmmaking with the EM5 II and WorkSpace - link

1. Introduction

Digital cameras didn't cope well with fine details and delicate color nuances in the past. Many couldn't set the exposure or measure the white balance well, and technologies like anti-aliasing and noise reduction removed most of the fine details. Lenses designed for digital cameras were in short supply, and many photographers settled on a solution with adapters. Photographers accepted that digital cameras were a compromise, and image editors like Photoshop formed the bridge between the image captured with the camera and the final edited photo.

Did image editing hold its position as an enabler for digital photography? Some photographers find it rewarding to create the final image in the camera. Should photographers have the skills to create their own image style in the camera? What do people see when they study your photos?


Olympus EM5 II with Lumix 35-100mm f2.8 - ISO200, f5.6, 1/250 (Un-edited EM5 II jpeg )

Each photographer needs a unique photography style and brand. With photography style, I mean both the image from the camera and any raw conversion or image editing. This is one of the best ways to differentiate your photography from others. Your photography style will become the link between the results with your camera and your unique image editing style with Workspace.

Cameras are designed to provide neutral colors. For example, digital cameras use a standard Gamma curve, fixed White Balance options, and neutral contrast and saturation values. Many photographers think they capture neutral photos with these default "settings." This is not 100% correct because they are designed to give an average or neutral output for a wide range of applications.

Analog photography is similar. I used to give my personal preferences to the developers when I gave them my film roles. They would apply my "Photoshop" adjustments in the machine that developed my film roles. The result was my analog photos had my own unique style...



Which of the above images is correctly exposed? I did nothing special because the camera was set to automatically select these exposures. Did the camera use the best choice for each photo? I simply tilted the camera up and down to get these 3 exposures. My 17mm f1.8 lens will give 3 more exposure values. How does this example influence my sensor's saturation and ISO-to-SNR ratio? Take a moment and study this article about the Olympus Gradation Function.

We learn the following from this example. Knowledge is an enabler and allows us to manage the sensor and the camera's performance. The camera's focus point (tilt) and the FL of the lens influence the camera's exposure measurements. It's possible to capture these photos without clipping the highs or lows. The first step is to master your WB and exposure values and personalize your image style.

2. Considering extremes and having a personalized style

The following image was well-exposed. That means it's possible to recover the highlights and shadows. My aim was maximum image information. The result is a "flat" image which is not a truthful replica of the original scene. The advantage of using Olympus cameras is that Workspace uses the same settings as the camera. This allows us to tweak our camera setting with Workspace.

Many photographers will push the shadows and highlight sliders for more image details. Their goal is maximum dynamic range versus a truthful replica of the original scene. The result is a "flat" looking image. One of the best-kept secrets of using Olympus is to have it right the first time.


The Enhanced Raw file was converted in Workspace, and the 16-Bit Tiff file was prepped in Photoshop.

The illustration below shows the camera jpeg and the converted and edited raw file. I pushed the highlights and shadows hard to get more image details. You will see this image style does not have natural contrasts. Residential photographers typically need more highlight and shadow details and will push harder if clients ask for more image information.

The ongoing dynamic range debate and camera reviews challenge photographers unnecessarily. For example, social media creators are some of the most sensitive audiences. Do you remember the flat or "pastel" looking images that were popular with pink or orange overlays on Instagram?



3. How to pre-edit what you see in the WorkSpace Live View mode

It's good to consider the following as your own image style develops. We learned Olympus cameras and WorkSpace use the same image-processing engine. This enables us to create and test image profiles with WorkSpace.

We also learned the final camera Live View display is replicated in WorkSpace when we activate our camera setting in Workspace. WorkSpace uses our camera settings when we convert the Enhanced Raw File. This enables us to check and change our camera settings with Workspace. This is different from randomly adjusting random sliders in Lightroom or Photoshop... 


This "processed" jpeg file is directly from the EM5 II (see my camera settings below). It's possible to edit these settings in WS.


Here are the "image profile" that I used in the above EM5 II image:-

  • Exposure compensation +2/3 EV (ETTR)
  • Shadows set to -1 (curves)
  • Highlights to -2 (curves)
  • The contrast was set to +1
  • Picture Mode was i-Enhance
  • Gradation was set to Auto

The older EM5 and the EM10 II do not have the same Mid-Tones slider as newer Olympus cameras. I used exposure compensation for 2 reasons. One is ETTR, and the other adjusted my mid-tones.

4. A different way of creating your own image style

Below are two examples, one pushing for maximum shadow details plus a more balanced image. Both started with the same series of bracketed images but with different editing styles. I also used this high-detail HDR technique in Photoshop. 

You will have a more natural 3D look when you study images with a balanced shadow and highlight look. Shadows and highlights enable us to create more truthful landscapes. The sun's direction is also critical, and the camera focus points are key. Also, use leading lines and reference points.

Your client may prefer "hard" shadows or blacks. Theoretically, this was not possible with the older E3. That said, one can create clean shadows and highlight details with the Photoshop 32bit HDR technique. Here is another way of working with shadows and highlights.



I purposely distanced myself from getting the "perfect" image look as I started to refocus on contrasts and image style. I still work with highlights and shadows but with a different purpose. You may be forced to push the shadows or the highlights in Adobe Raw. This makes it difficult to create natural contrasts. Try this technique in those cases.

Study the example below. The converted RAW file's foreground visibility increased while maintaining a distinct contrast to the foreground, the water, and the mountains in the back. It would have been too easy to simply "flatten" the image by pulling the shadows up...



5. Examples of what a personalized image style looks like

All the images below were edited with distinct contrasts. What is your preferred image style? You will discover a natural feeling of depth if you evaluate the image below versus the original jpeg. I converted the Enhanced Raw File in WS and prepped it for the web in PS. This image stretched the EM5 II's raw file. Three +/-1EV bracketed files will give better results. Something interesting, I focused on the trees and any patterns in the background, not the details or counting leaves. 


The Enhanced Raw file was converted and edited in WS. The 16-Bit Tiff file was prepped in Photoshop.


The raw file was edited in WorkSpace, and the final steps with Photoshop.

The raw file below was edited in PhotoLab 4 and finished in Photoshop. Folks, PhotoLab 4 is the best raw converter for recovering images, plus it looks like a perfect match for Olympus.

As you study the image below, you will see the shadows on the left could have noise. The sensor is not saturated in the shadow areas, and we can expect less tonal data and more shadow noise. In fact, if you study the histogram, you will see the shadows are all the way to the left.

It was possible to capture a more detailed look by shifting the histogram to the right. If I were on holiday and wanted a quick photo for social media, then the EM5 II HDR function is enough.


Olympus EM5 II with Lumix 7-14mm - ISO200, f5.6, 1/400.

Panasonic LX100 12MP - ISO640, f2.8, 1/30 (RAW file edited with Photoshop w strong contrasts).

Olympus EM5 MKII with Lumix 12-35mm f2.8 - ISO400, f7.1, 1/400.

The final example represents a "new" image style I created in WorkSpace and added to my Pen F. I tested it with my late afternoon walks. 


I used the Color Creator to get a warmer-looking result. I also tweaked the white balance a little. Here are my camera settings:-

- Color Creator - Color 1, Vivid -1
- White Balance (Amber) -1
- Curves Mid Point -2
- Curves high +1
- Curves low -1


Select the correct scenes for your photography walk if you plan new profiles in WorkSpace. You can also use an image from the same camera in WS. 

Wait for WorkSpace to apply the changes after each adjustment. Take your time and check the before and after results. Carefully evaluate each adjustment before making another adjustment. Take full advantage of Workspace and your bigger PC screen when developing profiles.

6. Interesting editing Tips...


Only consider your photo session complete if your camera adjustments are verified in Workspace. This is made possible by the unique relationship between Workspace and Olympus cameras. Any camera will deliver good image quality if the sensor's saturation and the white balance adjustments are optimum. I did several articles in 2023 explaining this unique relationship between the sensor's saturation level and how well we expose the image sensor.

Workspace is not designed as a recovery service for incorrectly exposed images. It's also better with global adjustments. The most effective strategy is to convert your Enhanced Raw Files with Workspace and plan any advanced editing techniques with photo editors like Photoshop.

Here are a few videos for all photographers:-

- My most recent videos on Workspace.
- An interesting video on partial editing.
- Here are a must-see video on Photoshop.
- Here are a great video on colors and tones.


Olympus EM1 III with the 12-40mm f2.8 Pro lens. The Enhanced Raw File of this High Ress shot was converted and edited with Workspace.

7. Conclusion


Olympus cameras and Workspace offer much value and the ability to present any scene as accurately as possible. The most valuable advice I can give any Olympus photographer is to improve your knowledge of digital photography and cameras plus practice, practice, and more practice.


Pen F w 17mm f1.8 compact. Raw edited in PhotoLab 3, Adjusted contrasts & dark (black) shadows.


Feb 10, 2021

Should I create my own Olympus Color Profile?

14th September 2021 

I have been having this question for weeks. I have a few older E-Series Olympus cameras and I thought why not? I read newer M43 models do not use these famous Olympus colors, they have been toned down with more neutral color profiles. I guess the question is, are they really different?

General notes or comments:-

  1. Below you see the 4 different E-Series cameras with an image taken with the listed cameras. What do you think, is it possible to build a traditional "Olympus Color Profile" for my Pen F? 
  2. I will not be able to test the final profiles at the moment because we have boring winter weather, and you need rich colors. This final testing for the profile might take a bit...
  3. Does any of you have one of these E-series cameras plus a Pen F and are willing to try beta profiles...?
  4. Are you ready for a challenge to develop your own "Olympus Color Profile," let me know...
  5. I had an E1 but sold it. The E1 does have a unique JPEG look when you study the images. You can easily use the E1 jpeg straight out of the camera. 
  6. Do you think there is a difference between the cameras having a Kodak CCD sensor and the newer models with CMOS sensors?
  7. Some say there is a difference between the Kodak and CMOS sensors. Must say when I study the images I have from my E400 (10MP Kodak CCD), then I find the jpegs are really good. Interesting, the E400 was never really popular?
  8. I have an idea for how I will prepare the color checker images to have a muster I can work from. I will do a short video explaining how I do the profile and color checker images soon...
  9. For anyone interested see this interesting discussion on Flickr about the E5 and others...
Here are the 1st images you can study. I obviously have to do more work on my lighting, the jump from RC on my Pen F to the slave flash mode on the E330, E400, and E500 did not work so well. Still, the colors seem really interesting...

14th September update: I have been working on, and testing my new E-Series color profile. It's basically done and I am happy with the result. See the brief description below.

Also, see my Pen F and E-P7 Color Profile Page.

Additional notes:-
  • Use Auto WB or use the gray card option
  • Use the Highlights/Shadows (Curves) to fine-tune the profile look
  • Do not use the saturation or contrast sliders



Different E-Series cameras and images as a reference...







Olympus E500

Olympus E-330 - 7.5MP Live MOS (NMOS) Sensor

Olympus E-400 - 10MP CCD Sensor (the only Olympus 10MP CCD sensor)

Olympus E500 - 8MP (FFT) CCD Sensor (The Kodak Sensor)

Olympus E-520 - 10MP Live MOS CMOS Sensor

Olympus Pen-F - 20MP Live MOS CMOS Sensor


Feb 3, 2021

High detail images and HDR variants

 Last Updated:- 20th August 2022

Introduction

Take a moment and think about the 2-Step-Exposure-Technique. As you know the 2nd step allows us to optimize our exposure settings and the performance of the image sensor. We also discussed how shifting the histogram to the right (ETTR) increases the recorded tonal data.

You will find more about the 2-Step-Exposure-Technique here.

In one of my previous articles, an EM5 III owner asked how to improve shadow details and whether HDR is a viable option. Thinking about HDR, we know the Olympus HDR function uses stacked images as is Adobe Photoshop. Stacked images generally help us to improve Image NoiseDynamic Range, and the Tonal Data of the final image. 

You will find more about the EM5 III article here.

How to create a detailed 32-bit image in Photoshop

Another way of increasing our tonal data is the Merge to HDR Pro feature in Photoshop. This feature combines two or more bracketed images into one detailed 32-bit image. This function is great for product photography or landscapes. It can be compared to the Hi-Res mode from Olympus.

I did a quick search of my image collection and found 3 bracketed shots. I used the Photoshop Merge to HDR Pro function to merge these images. See the final result below.


Taken with my Canon 350D in 2004


Here are the histograms of the 3 bracketed images. I did not know anything about optimizing the image sensor or how to record better tonal data when I took these images. I basically applied what forum experts or photography magazines said and took the three +/-1EV bracket images.




Which starting exposure is best for an HDR sequence? Is it better to expose the first image normally or should we shift the exposure for more shadow or highlight details? One method is to simply optimize the sensor for the first image. The two bracketed images at +/-1EV should be enough to have a good balance between the shadows, mid-tones, and highlights. 

It shouldn't be necessary to shift your initial exposure in a bracketed sequence. It's best to experiment if you need to improve the shadows or the highlights. The final step is to determine the difference between the lowest and highest exposures. This will determine if you select 1/3, 1/2, or 1-Stop increments for your bracketed sequence or whether you will use 3, 5, or 7 bracketed images.

Another interesting method is the Exposure Blending function in Photoshop. It blends 3 bracketed images into separate layers with a mask for each. This enables photographers to see which parts of each image are selected by Photoshop for the final image. The photographer can then edit the separate masks to focus more on specifics like image data and shadow details.

My advice is to practice and experiment with your camera and the histogram until you find the best combination that works for your photography style. The presenter in the video below used 2 bracketed images to explain the Merge to HDR Pro technique in Photoshop.




What about the HDR function in OMD cameras?


The Olympus HDR function is one of the most underestimated features from Olympus. It is available with most Olympus cameras and is generally in the Shooting 2 menu. The secret to using the Olympus HDR function is Manual Mode and not one of the Auto or semi-Auto Modes.

Use HDR1 or HDR2 on your Olympus and follow the basic principles discussed in the 2 Step Exposure Technique. You will see the camera automatically goes to ISO200 which means you might need a tripod in low light conditions. The base or starting exposure will determine if your focus is shadows or highlights. Use ETTR or target the shadows to improve the tonal data. You can also use the Olympus HDR function in normal daylight. 

Conclusion

While studying the above histograms, you will see the base exposure was perfect. My old Canon 350D did a great job of selecting the base exposure. This is not always the case. Practice makes perfect and I can only recommend that you use your camera as frequently as possible. Create your own opportunities and projects to practice these and other techniques with your Olympus.


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