Olympus Pen-F color and monochrome

Last Update: 7th September 2021

In this article, we will take a look at the different Color and Creative Photography features available with the Olympus Pen F. I will also discuss the new functions Olympus added to the Monochrome, the Color Profile, and the Color Creator functions with the latest V3 firmware upgrade. We will study the Pen-F integration with WorkSpace and how one can share and upload profiles. We will discuss how to create and change profiles and finally, we will have a look at the new Pen F gallery on the official Olympus website.

These images were part of the ad campaign introducing the Pen F as a definition of style and substance in 2016

The Pen-F is one of the most radical and elegant mirrorless cameras ever designed. That said, it was received amidst "unexpected" hostility as most reviewers and forum experts immediately complained about the menu, and then demanded an OMD type "Pen F". These M43 experts also rejected the Pen F, claiming the Creative Dial had no real purpose, it's in the wrong location, and the Creative Dial and ART Filters have no place in modern digital photography. 

Search "Pen F" on the DPReview and the Mu-43 forums and you will be blown away by the negative reactions and the gossip from Olympus and M43 photographers. The most surprising was that none of these "experts" figured out that Olympus was really in the process of introducing a completely new and future Color and Creative Photography concept.

We also saw how the Pen F enabled street photographers and how they welcomed the EVF placement. The unique MonoChrome and Color features made the Pen F special and one of a kind. They could simply select from a list of up to 32 different Color and Monochrome Profiles without having to spend the time on location to select individual camera settings.

Something I discuss in my WorkSpace "how-to" article, is the unique Live View feature of WorkSpace. This feature enables photographers to develop their Color and Monochrome Profiles on any WorkSpace "Live View" display. Photographers can now develop and test their new profiles before entering them into the Pen F. Also see Part 6 in my Color and Creative Photography series.

See this launch video of the Pen-F (less than 5 minutes)

Street Photography with the Olympus Pen-F

The interesting Pen-F video with the POV Photo Guy (Highly Recommended)

The Pen F had two firmware updates, see the details below:-

• Olympus added the "Bleech Bypass film" ART filter to the Pen F
• Custom settings C1 to C4 are now included when saving the camera configuration
• This makes it possible to share Pen F configurations with C1 to C4 with friends
• The ability to extract color and monochrome profiles from jpeg images
• You can now share color or monochrome profiles by sharing your jpeg files
• Shading effects have been added to the color profile and the color creator
• The ISO auto settings have been expanded and are the same as the EM1 II
• The monitor AF Targetting Pad performance has been improved
• ART filter selection and the touch function operation have been improved

Below is the User Manual (V3.1) page #, and the related creative Pen F functions:-

• Page 38 - Creative Dial operation
• Page 39 - The Color Profile Tool
• Page 40 - Monochrome Profile Control
• Page 66 - Monochrome Profile Grain filter
• Page 41 - The Color Creator
• Page 42 - Art Filters
• Page 67 - Color filter effects to the Monochrome Picture Mode
• Page 116 - Assigning photo story to C3 and SCN modes to C4
• Page 116 - Photo Story
• Page 118 - SCN Modes
• Page 33, 88 - How to set up Custom Modes
• Page 179 - 182 - A summary of the Firmware updates V2 & V3

I wrote a 6 part color and creative photography series. Please go see parts 3 & 6 if you are new to the color wheel, color harmonies, and how to work with color and your Olympus camera. Also, see my article on how to use the Color Creator.

Setting up the Pen F to its full creative flexibility?

Your Pen F should always be ready for maximum creative use. It's really a mistake to wish the Pen F was some kind of OMD camera. For example, camera manufacturers will carefully select the image sensor for each camera to match the camera concept. This is why Olympus selected a different image sensor for the Pen F and not the same sensor found in the EM1 II. The EM1 II was designed for high performance and speed, whereas the Pen F was designed for street photography and ultimate creativity. The EM1 II and the Pen F are completely different cameras and together they cover a wide range of photography applications.

A = Creative Dial / B = Mode Dial (Custom Modes) / C = Lever

The Mode Dial on the Pen F is different from the EM5 II, the EPL9, or the EM1 II. For example, you will not find Photo Story or SCN Modes on the Pen F. You need to first configure the Custom Modes C3 and C4 for Photo Story and SCN Modes before you can use these features on the Pen F. See the above user manual summary and the relevant pages in the user manual. That leaves C1 and C2 open to save your preferred camera configurations and any additional color and monochrome profiles. This enables you to save up to 9 additional colors and 9 additional monochrome profiles.

Tip:- If you like to save new color or monochrome profiles to the custom modes C1 and C2, start by selecting your preferred exposure mode like Aperture Mode (A-Mode).  Now you can configure the Pen F as you like, plus the 3 Color or the 3 MonoChrome Profiles. When done save the configuration to C1 or C2. It is not possible to save a new configuration directly to C1 or C2.

The Olympus Pen-F main creative modes?

It's sometimes difficult to picture the complete creative magnitude of Olympus cameras and especially, the Pen F. The reason is the different creative features and options are linked to more than one function. For example, looking at ART filters you might say no they are not that interesting. 

It's only when you select ART filters that you see that each ART filter has several more options. Some of these options you will also see when you work with the Color or Monochrome Profile. You could be in a situation where you quickly want to record a series of images with Photo-Story. You do not want to edit the Photo-Story images when back home, so you decide to use a Pop ART filter with Photo-Story. As you can see these cameras are truly creative masterpieces.

One can summarize the Pen-F creative modes in 6 groups:-

1. The Color Creator
2. The Color Profile (One can save up to 9 profiles in C1 & C2)
3. The Monochrome Profile (One can save 9 profiles in C1 & C2)
4. Monotone "Picture Mode" (different from the monochrome profile)
5. ART Filters, SCN Modes, Photo Story, and HDR
6. Live Composite, Live Time, Panorama, Stacking, Timelapse

Each of these creative groups has access to more options like curves, grain filters, color filters, and shading to assist the photographer to create the perfect image look and feel in the camera.

The Color Profile Tool

A = You can select 1 of 3 factory set Profiles (Profile 1 is neutral)

Olympus describes the above color profile presets as:

"Of the three color profile presets, Colour Profile 2: Chrome Film Rich Colour provides rich, deep tones, and Colour Profile 3: Chrome Film VS gives rich film colors with high levels of saturation. You can make adjustments to these two presets, or you can create your own color profile from scratch using the Colour Profile 1 preset."

The first color profile (Profile 1) is neutral and available to the user. Profiles 2 & 3 are factory preset color profiles. If you assigned your preferred camera configuration to custom modes C1 and C2, you have 6 (3+3) more options for saving your own profiles. Set up your different color profiles for C1 and C2 and you will have a total of 8 preset color profiles and profile 1 for unique situations. I keep a summary of all my profiles on my mobile phone with a brief description of each profile.

The following variables are included and saved with color profiles:

• Color Profile tool with 12 different color selection
• The Shading function
• The Highlight/Shadow & Midtone function (Curves)
• Sharpness and contrast settings (See the SCP)
• Exposure compensation (Exposure Comp dial on the Pen F)

These are the main settings when creating your own color profiles. Keep profile 1 at the factory setting so that you can quickly adapt colors when out doing photography. Save your own or any shared profiles in the Picture Modes C1 and C2 (6x Profiles in total). Always practice your color awareness. 

For example, practice your color awareness by doing the following:-

• Practice scanning your surroundings, identify colors and build color harmonies
• When paging through a magazine identify the main colors and the color harmonies
• Be aware of the people's clothes (colors) and check their selection of colors
• Practice using different color harmonies (Complementary, Analogous, and Triadic)
• In time you will find your color awareness and creating harmonies will improve
• See this interesting photographer and his article on working with color - link

With practice, it will become second nature to scan your surroundings, select colors, and build harmonies. Adjust your target colors with profile 1 using the Color Profil. The more you do this the easier it gets. The secret is to apply small adjustments at a time. In most cases, subtle chances are more effective than extreme color effects.

For example, you are out visiting a historic city with the family. Your partner is dressed in a bright yellow shirt with jeans. The sky is clear so you decide to focus on the complementary colors yellow and blue. You like these colors to stand out with the blue skies above the buildings. Highlighting these complementary colors, you can increase the vividness of yellow and blue with +2. Next, you will reduce the vividness of all the other colors with -2. Next, you will increase the contrast with the curves function, and in the final step, you can create a slight pinhole look with the shading function.

Monochrome Profile

A = Monochrome Profiles / B = Grain filter setting or selection

Olympus describes the above monochrome profile presets as:

"Of the three monochrome profile presets, Monochrome Profile 2: Classic Film B&W provides a grainy monochrome look, and Monochrome Profile 3: Classic Film IR emphasizes red color filter effects for the look of infrared film. You can make adjustments to these two presets, or you can create your own monochrome profile from scratch using the Monochrome Profile 1 preset."

The first Monochrome Profile (Profile 1) is neutral and available to the user. Profiles 2 and 3 are factory preset monochrome profiles. If you assigned your preferred camera configuration to custom modes C1 and C2 you have 6 (3+3) more options for saving your own profiles. Set up your different monochrome profiles for C1 & C2 and you will a total of 8 preset monochrome profiles and profile 1 for unique situations. I keep a summary of all my profiles on my mobile phone with a brief description of each profile. All said, with a little practice it's often faster to evaluate the scene and adapt Profile 1.

The following parameters are saved with each monochrome profile:

• The Monochrome Profile with 9 target colors with 3 levels each
• The Shading function settings
• Highlight/Shadow & Midtone settings (Curves)
• Sharpness and contrast (SCP adjustments)
• Film Grain Effect in the (See the SCP)
• The Monochrome base color (found in the SCP)
• Exposure compensation (Exp Comp dial on the Pen F)

When creating your own monochrome profiles follow the steps below:-

• Like with color profiles, be aware of your surroundings and dominant colors
• With monochrome, you only focus on the target color and the opposite color
• When adjusting the blues in the sky, blue will darken and yellow will brighten
• With landscapes, one typically targets the sky, clouds, trees, fields, or structures
• With monochrome or black & white scenes, focus and work on strong contrasts
• The first step is to select your target color and adjust it with the profile tool
• The next step is to activate the SCP
• Select a monochrome base color (T) or leave the base color neutral
• From the SCP you can also select black & white or monochrome grain settings
• Finally use curves to add more contrast and the shading function as required

See the examples below:

Original image on the left and the Monochrome profile using a yellow base color on the right

Again the original image w a color profile, then a monochrome only profile, and finally adding a base color

The monochrome profile tool is not the only monochrome or monotone option on the Pen F. All Olympus cameras have the monochrome picture mode. To activate the monochrome picture mode, turn the creative dial to the "OFF" position and press the OK button to activate the SCP. Move the cursor to picture modes and turn the front dial until you see monochrome. The different monochrome options will be available in the SCP.

Olympus Pen F with 50mm f1.8 - ISO200, f4.5, 1/800 (MonoChrome Profile plus a little Photoshop)

How to create/manage and share your color or monochrome profiles?

See my WorkSpace, how-to page here. Go to how-to technique #7 for a detailed explanation of how to manage your profiles. Olympus added a new gallery with color and monochrome images created by different Olympus visionaries. You will find the collection here. Each image can be downloaded and the Exif data is included. Each image also has additional information about the profile. This is a great resource for Pen F photographers looking for ideas and inspiration... 

You can now lift any of these profiles with WorkSpace and transfer them to your camera. You can also open the image in WorkSpace, open the Exif Info, and manually transfer the settings to your Pen F.

Part of the Olympus Pen F collection of color and monochrome profile images

The available information for each image in the gallery

A more advanced technique for developing profiles is described in this article.

For example, it is possible to use color cards to copy and create your own profiles. I created a series of color cards with different DXO film profiles applied to them. Each image has another DXO film profile applied to the color card. This is a little more advanced and you need to be patient and ready to practice. The color cards are also a great help to develop a feel for color and to identify what the other person did when creating profiles.

Then finally visit my Pen F Profile page where I regularly add new profiles I developed or profiles I see on the web. You are also welcome to let me know when you developed a new profile you like to share with others...

I have added a few videos below. They offer more information on additional Pen F creative functions. Sometimes it's enough to apply a basic ART filter, it's not always necessary to look for complex solutions. Unfortunately, I had to remove several links, it seems Olympus is deleting videos from YouTube, I do not know if it is linked to Olympus selling the camera business.

Live Composite

See this link for 7 interesting TIPS on how you can use the Live Composite function. You can also subscribe to this Olympus webpage.

Photo Story

Rob Trek showing how to enter a version of the Kodak 25 profile

Photowalk and 2-Step Exposure Technique

Last Update: 9 October 2020

My wife and I were driving past the old town Rapperswil at the far end of Lake Zürich. Returning from our appointment, we decided to stop over at Rapperswil and spend an hour or two in this lovely old town. My wife with her EM10 III and myself with my Pen F with my 12-50mm lens.

I also wanted to test the Gossen light meter. The idea was to try the Gossen with more demanding exposure settings like ETTR for street/city photography. (Walimex is a Gossen)

Olympus EM1 II w 30mm Macro, 2x FL600, mini studio, RC Mode set-up the w Gossen

Regular visitors to my blog will know that I have been on a journey studying exposure, the image sensor, and focusing techniques.

While I was searching for information on my Gossen, one thing led to the next and I came across the Sekonic YouTube presenter, Joe Brady. In his videos, Joe demonstrated the benefits of using external light meters with modern cameras. Joe convinced me to add the Gossen to my exposure toolbox.

In the past, my Gossen was tucked away in my photography "to-do" box. This was until I saw Joe's videos. The video below is the first in a 4-part series.

It is now 3 years since I started researching the image sensor. In that time I studied different articles on DPReview and I participated in various (some heated) forum discussions. I always compared the information I learned with theoretical and technical articles published by schools, image sensor manufacturers, the European Machine and Vision Association, and other enthusiast websites. 

Like in all situations, to get to that one thing that matters most, you need to first remove all the smoke and talking. Without getting too much into the sensor size debate, those who did consider changing from one camera system to another, know its way more than sensor size. Three basic factors to consider are buying/selling costs, the size/weight of equipment, and the available lens range.

Pointing out that one thing, I discovered the key to optimum image quality is to operate the image sensor at its ideal SNR. (Figure 1) It was clear, the digital camera is not an artistic paintbrush. The ideal SNR is specific and it happens in a small operating window only. This moved me to re-adjust my artistic expectation of the digital camera. The artistic part of digital photography can be considered as the pre-recording and the post-processing phases of creating the final digital image. 

The image recording phase is simply a data collecting phase and nothing more. The goal is to select the "right" exposure settings that will push the sensor to its ideal performance. This "ideal" performance happens at the sensor full SNR or full Saturation point. (See Figure 1) At full saturation, the sensor will record maximum tonal data at the lowest noise levels.

Even though I like to write more about all the benefits of recording more tonal data, the challenge is, it will quickly grow into a full separate article. (See this article I wrote)

Figure 1

Traditionally I prefer to use Aperture Priority Mode. That said, our photo walk in Rapperswil took about 2 hours. Based on the conditions I knew it was safe to manually select ISO200. Next, I will select my "starting" aperture. For this kind of city scenes, I used f5,6. From here on I will carefully select my focus points, always check the histogram, up the exposure compensation if needed, and then take the image. This is a quick process that will literally take seconds. As you learn more about the 2-step Exposure Technique discussed in this article, the question is, is there any benefit changing to Manual or Shutter Priority Mode?

Olympus Pen F with 12-50mm f5.0, ISO200, 1/500 - Raw file edited in PS (only basic settings)

The above image was taken using my Gossen exposure readout. See the histogram. The Gossen exposure reading was the equivalent of the camera reading plus 0,3EV. The dynamic range the camera will "see" is influenced by the percentage of clouds in the frame. For example, pointing the camera up a little will increase the percentage clouds in the frame and vice versa. When the camera exposure reading is weighted more towards the clouds, the street level shadows and noise will increase. 

Not that shadows generates more noise, what happens is less exposure (image signal) results in a smaller SNR, a drop in tonal data, and more noise. Interestingly, my Gossen was less impacted by how much clouds were in the "frame" and capable of measuring the overall exposure more accurately. 

This is the same image edited in Luminar 4 - As you can see the camera handled the DR well

The above image is an edited version of the RAW file. While editing the RAW file in Photoshop, I knew the RAW file had maximum tonal data, enabling me to push the RAW file a little harder. 

I increased the exposure by applying the aperture "gain" principle with the image below. As the exposure increased, I monitoring the histogram shifting to the right plus how the image brightness increased at the tree and street level. The final exposure compensation I selected was +1(EV).

When you move the histogram to the right, the darker areas also benefit from recording more tonal data. An increase in tonal data does not only happen in the highlights. If you think about it, this is one of the reasons why it's so interesting to work with HDR. I also used the camera over/underexpose warning system to check for any clipping. The sky had a few warnings (red spots), which was OK. 

I am rarely aiming for no clipping. In this example, the clouds did clip a little in some of the white areas. I was OK with that. I will do the same when I have dark shadows. When having no choice, I found it's better to clip select dark shadows to black and prevent having non-critical dark "details" with noise. This is a simple technique Panasonic has been applying to video recording. Below you see the jpeg, directly from the camera. 

This is what the jpeg looks like when applying an ETTR of +1EV

The image below is the edited RAW version of the above jpeg image. I knew the RAW image had maximum tonal data which was reassuring when editing the RAW file.

For those preferring their jpeg files ready out the camera, read the following. The secret is to treat the RAW and the jpeg files differently. The RAW file can be pushed to record maximum tonal data and the jpeg readjusted to mimic the scene. To get a better jpeg result, you might have to tap down the ETTR to +0,3 or +0,5EV. Keep in mind, using a smaller ETTR will give a smaller SNR, and risking more shadow noise. Tip:- Check out the exposure shift function on Olympus.

The next settings will help you "prepare" a jpeg profile for your camera. Use mid-tones (camera curves) to pull back the ETTR compensation (effect). Set your Picture Mode to i-Enhance (not the Mode Dial, leave that on Aperture Priority). You could also add a "safe" contrast using an S-Curve. (Highlights +1 and shadows -1 or -2) The key is to experiment. One will obviously NOT get the same results in the camera as in Photoshop.

Olympus Pen F with 12-50mm f5.7, ISO200, 1/250 (+1EV) - Raw file edited in PS and Luminar 4

Final thoughts on pushing the image sensor and the 2-Step Exposure Technique

If you want to learn more about the basics of ETTR or what "flooding" the sensor is, see this article. When you study the 2-Step Exposure Technique, the first step setting up your camera exposure is to select the right depth-of-field (DOF) and shutter speed in terms of aperture and movement. The second step is to optimize the exposure you selected in step 1. When you completed step 1, you will see the settings below, displayed on your camera:

• ISO200 (Manual setting - see intro text))
• Shutter speed of 1/400 (Aperture-Mode - shutter speed selected by the camera)
• An aperture of f5,6 (Selected by the photographer in Aperture Mode)
• With this example, the Gossen showed +0,5EV "ETTR" for max SNR
• My histogram confirmed that it is safe to shift the histogram with +0,5EV
• Finally, I use the under/overexposure warning function on the camera

In the second step, you will focus on the actual image signal reaching the image sensor. The aim is to expose the sensor optimally using techniques like ETTR. Which one of the above settings will you adjust if you do not want to impact the DOF and shutter speed you selected in the first step? As you know, I manually set the ISO to 200. We also know that ISO does not control the amount of image signal reaching the sensor. The next 2 options are to increase the shutter speed or the aperture.

Something we haven't discussed much is to 

think of aperture as gain.

When you adjust the aperture as "gain", you specifically targeting exposure and not DOF. When you increase the aperture with 1 stop, you basically doubling the exposure on the sensor. This is seriously exposing (flooding) the sensor. The question is, how will this affect the DOF you selected in step 1. Something not talked about much is the flexibility M43 cameras enjoy in terms of DOF. 

When your "starting" aperture (DOF) has been set for city scenes, it's safe to 

slightly increase the aperture "gain" to expose the sensor more. 

An interesting analogy of the camera DOF is the motorcar steering. The "full-frame" steering is direct while the "M43" steering is indirect. We know this M43 flexibility varies from application to application, think of macro or insect photography. Always experiment and compare your own unique photography style first. 

M43 photographers tend to select higher aperture values than necessary. Instead of selecting f5.6 for a landscape, they will select f7.1 or higher. The difference between f5,6 and f7,1 or higher is the "indirect" steering flexibility I am referring too.

Pen F with 12-50mm, ISO200, f5.1, 1/200 and +0.3EV (ETTR)

The same advantage full-frame photographers enjoy on background blur, they lack on DOF. We know Full-frame owners will strongly disagree on forums, while it's nothing new to see serious full-frame photographers use focus stacking on critical DOF applications like with macro or landscape photography.

When you break free from "background blur", you will learn the M43 aperture is one of Micro Four-Thirds cameras' most exciting strengths. The key to unlocking this benefit is to re-think how you work with aperture when using crop sensor cameras. The depth of field you will have at f4,5 is enough for most landscapes, the key is to select the right focusing point. See this article.

This means it was safe to open the aperture with a half-stop in my first image of Rapperswil. This brightened the image plus added 50% more image signal (exposure) onto the sensor without affecting my original DOF (acceptable sharpness).

Take a moment and think about this, for years full-frame marketers successfully distracted photographers by focussing on equivalence and background blur. In the process, they effectively distracted crop sensor Photographers from exploring this exciting DOF versus "gain" technique.

If you really want to see the full impact of using gain to impact sensor performance, apply this technique on small sensor cameras like the Olympus Stylus 1.

The takeaway is to think of aperture not only as DOF but as both DOF and gain. When you expose to the right (ETTR) use aperture (gain), especially in poor light conditions when you already using slower shutter speeds or higher ISO settings. You need as little as half a stop to "flood" the sensor. A full stop gain will seriously flood the sensor. A better-exposed sensor results in a higher SNR, more tonal data, and less noise. This explains why it's so important to also think in terms of gain.

When you practice this simple 2-step exposure technique, it will quickly become second nature. Once you master this concept of working the M43 aperture setting as gain plus DOF, your photography and especially low light photography will improve.

It is a good idea to start practicing with older 12 or 16MP MFT or compact cameras. The benefits are more visible with older image sensors plus it will help you to master the DOF versus gain principle. 

Will the latest and greatest 20MP cameras also benefit from this technique? Absolutely, the only difference is the visible benefits will be less obvious. On some more recent OMD's, like the EM1 III, the camera auto-exposure appears to automatically measure for maximum SNR.

The possible expiry date

Yes, it is correct, the 2-step exposure technique does have an expiry date. The reason is simple, as more M43 photographers learn how to select the right aperture, the window for flooding the sensor will disappear. That means if you currently use f8 for your landscape images, you have a large window for using this gain benefit technique. If you typically using f4,5 with your landscape images, you have no gain window available. That said you could always decide to create this "gain" window for yourself by selecting f6,3 in step 1 of the 2-Step Exposure Technique. The advantage with crop sensor cameras is they have this unique "build-in" DOF flexibility and this has no expiry date.

I posted a brief summary of the new 2-Step Exposure Technique over at the Mu-43 forum trusting that M43 photographers will appreciate any new information that will help them improve their M43 image quality. I am a little surprised by the aggressive response. You will find it here. It makes you wonder who is really interested in helping other M43 photographers get great results.

Pen F with 12-50mm, ISO200, f5.0, 1/350 and +0.3EV (ETTR)

ETTR summary plus a real example

Last Update: 21 January 2023

Much is said and written about ETTR (Exposing to the Right). Enough to believe most photographers see the value of using ETTR. Unfortunately, this is not the case. The challenge is YouTube talking heads and forum experts continuously promote wild statements, resulting in a powerful technique being lost in a cloud of confusion. See this article for more about modern marketing.

We are looking at an example of using ETTR in this article. If you like to see more information, go to this article. Also, see this article discussing the 2-Step Exposure Technique.

Olympus EM1 II with Leica 25mm f1.4 lens - ISO6400 f7.1 1/13Sec w ETTR - Raw file converted in WorkSpace and edited in Photoshop

Think of ETTR as a process of determining the best possible exposure. We know fast shutter speeds are used for sports photography and large apertures for isolating subjects. Sports photographers prefer good light and/or higher ISOs. We also know an underexposed sensor means more image noise.

The key to top image quality is a Saturated Sensor and

ETTR is one of many exposure techniques.

What is Exposing to the Right (ETTR)?

ETTR is a basic process of adjusting the shutter speed and aperture to ensure more reflected light on the image sensor. The key is the sensor. The ISO setting does not control the reflected light reaching the sensor. We know camera sensors perform best when fully exposed. See this article for an illustration showing the different terminologies like luminance and reflected light.

What is the role of the ISO function?

The ISO function is another variable in the exposure formula used in the camera. It's important to remember the ISO setting does not control the reflected light reaching the image sensor. Use Auto ISO for general use and Manual ISO for critical applications. Use a fixed ISO for challenging applications and the shutter speed and aperture to control the reflected light to the sensor. 

For example, select an appropriate ISO for use with the ambient light in buildings and adjust the shutter speed and aperture to find the correct exposure settings for the sensor. Study this article for more information about the ISO function, shutter speed, and aperture.

The most important technique for improving image quality is to know the ISO. 
Avoid the auto ISO setting and learn how to manually set the ISO.

What are the benefits of ETTR?

When you clear away the talk about photons, pixels, and sensor size, then one fact remains. The average consumer camera is designed to record more tonal data in the highlights. That means the camera captures 2x more tonal data for each +1EV of ETTR. The image signal SNR improves with a more saturated image sensor. Image noise increases with an underexposed sensor.

How does one apply ETTR?

ETTR is not meant for every situation. For example, I often use an Exposure Shift of +0.3EV to increase my average exposure. I prefer Aperture Mode and a fixed ISO of 64 or 100 during the day. I will up my exposure settings with another stop in the late afternoon or blue-hour photography.

Assume you have a critical shot and like to have top image quality. The first step is to manually select the ISO. Use the histogram and increase your exposure with the Aperture and shutter Speed.

Tip:- Keep the ISO fixed

Olympus EM1 II screen

Olympus cameras use an Exposure Headroom of up to 1EV. This is why the histogram is less than optimally exposed in Auto Mode. The exposure meter is linked to the exposure headroom. ETTR helps us to manually bridge this exposure headroom. It is critical to practice with your exposure settings. For example, one can increase the exposure by up to 2EV in a blue sky behind the subject. In other situations, it's only possible to safely increase the exposure with 0.5EV. The camera's exposure meter will show an overexposure with ETTR, and the histogram will simply move to the right.

Study the image below. I upped the exposure with 1EV. There was enough dynamic range headroom available to increase the exposure. This is how much the camera meter underexposed the sensor.

Olympus EM1 II screen

General comments

Photographers are told ETTR is only applicable to the camera's base ISO. This is incorrect because the sensor is designed to capture more tonal data in the highlights, irrespective of the ISO value. Promoters will say the dynamic range decreases at higher ISO values. The solution is to use your histogram, the exposure meter, and other visual features to prevent unwanted clipping.

Tip:- The ISO effectively adjusts image brightness and not exposure.

In terms of exposure, the following is critical:-

• Only the Shutter and Aperture determine the reflected light reaching the sensor
• The ISO function only amplifies the image signal coming from the image sensor

The samples and the info below were taken from the first image in the article:-

Conclusion

Olympus cameras generally underexpose the sensor. This is the main reason for the loss of image details and more shadow noise at higher ISOs. Knowing Olympus cameras, we know it's OK to overexpose the sensor with up to 1EV. The key is to monitor your histogram at higher ISOs and shutter speeds, no matter what ISO you need for that next winning image...

How does ISO invariance impact ETTR? Not much because consumer cameras are designed to capture more image data in the highlights. This will not change shortly.

For more on ISO Invariance, read this article.

Below is a description of how to use ETTR

To optimize your camera exposure, apply this simple method:-

1. Fix the ISO to the value you need (Go to the SCP and select the ISO)
2. Confirm the ISO is fixed in M-Mode. The next step is to set the exposure
3. Select your aperture or shutter speed (A or S mode) and check the exposure meter
4. Follow the histogram with the exposure meter on 0EV (this is 18% gray exposure)
5. The camera "auto" mode will generally select a safe or conservative exposure
6. When you see free space to the right of the histogram, increase the exposure
7. Check the histogram as the histogram moves to the right. (Do not go too far)
8. The exposure meter will show you are overexposing by a 1/3, 2/3, or 1EV
9. It's done when you are satisfied with the histogram and the exposure meter... 
10. You can now safely take your image

Your image will be overexposed. This is easy to correct in the camera or Workspace. The result is an image with less noise and more image data to work with in post-processing.

Sony A7 III with 50mm, f1.8 - ISO25600, f7.1, 1/30sec w ETTR - Raw file edited in PhotoLab 3 using PhotoLab 3 noise reduction

See this helpful video from Ron Trek. Rob has a great YouTube channel with lots of information on Olympus cameras. In this video, Rob discusses the Olympus exposure meter, the histogram, and what features we have with Olympus cameras.

Filmmaking with the EM5 II and WorkSpace

Last Update: 17 May 2020

I recently asked the question, what happened to that great filmmaking spirit that motivated so many filmmakers of old. Home moviemakers spend hours filming the ocean, animals in the zoo, and pets playing. Did that all go away when the old film role went digital? That said, it is good to see our younger generation mastering digital video recording and video editing.

Homemade movie using simple movie-making techniques and three Olympus cameras

Many photographers and some previously enthusiast filmmakers say they do not know where to start. They feel intimidated with things like digital video formats, 8K, and supercharged PC's. Many are in the dark in terms of camera settings or what additional equipment they will need. Thinking back, my own experience was the same. It was more challenging to adapt to digital video than it was to change to digital photography.

This is not good. On the one hand forum "professionals" ask for more from manufacturers and on the other hand, potential home filmmakers feel more alienated. The question is, what can we do to help photographers enjoy video recording? I believe Olympus recognized this and that is why they added basic video recording features in their mirrorless cameras and WorkSpace.

In this article, we will take a look at video recording, video equipment, and how to set up the camera. We will study WorkSpace, and how to edit videos in WorkSpace. The aim is that readers learn the basics of how to create and edit videos for home use, YouTube, and Instagram?

What equipment do you need?

Looking at the Camera

Any of the current MFT cameras are good for video. The previous range is also good for video. This includes the EM1 II, EM5 II, Pen F, EM10 II, and the EPL8. That said one can go back to the Pen EP3, the EM5, and the EM1 and create great videos.

Any of the lenses below are good for video:-

• Olympus 12-50mm EZ Kit Lens - great for filming, benefit, the motorized zoom
• Olympus 14-42mm EZ Kit Lens - Small zoom range but with motorized zoom
• Olympus 30mm or 60mm Macro for close-ups or detail views
• Olympus 14-42mm Kit Lens - not EZ. The 2nd & 3rd generation MSC type
• Olympus Pancake Lenses - any of the fixed f1,8 focal length lenses are perfect
• Olympus 40-150mm or the 14-150mm general zoom lenses
• Any of the Olympus Pro lenses

You will need an ND filter. Variable ND filters are more practical than having two or three fixed value ND filters. Try and select lenses with the same filter diameter. The above list with lenses (Not the Pro) ranges from 46mm, 52mm, to 58mm filter diameters.

Video quality is not measured in "image sharpness". In fact, when recording at 24 frames per second the video flow has a slight blur effect. This slight blur is often named the Cinema effect. This is one of the reasons why videographers prefer lenses with a unique film look. There are several things to look for when searching for a new video lens and they are different from what photographers would look for. Videographers are more artistically inspired, probably more than photographers.

Smallrig flash mount filming handle with LED light and mic

What else will you need for video recording? The following items are practical items, but not must-have items:-

• Camera cage or camera handle that fits onto the hot shoe (see above)
• Portable (LED) light source
• An external microphone, or use a mobile phone as a recording device
• External monitor (not the recorder type)
• Tripods and reflectors

The Smallrig "Video" handle helps when filming from a lower position or when filming close to the ground. It's also good when doing unique camera movements. Used in combination with IBIS, the video handle enables the videographer to learn more complex camera movements.

I find the more I practice, the smoother my results. In fact, with a little practice and IBIS, the home moviemaker might never need a separate gimbal. Another benefit is, all the above video options will fit onto the video handle. This is great for changing the camera from video mode to photography or vice versa.

What camera settings are needed for video recording

I used an EM5 MKII for all my video recordings and the illustrations in this article. From the camera menu, select "I. Movie". See the images below and adjust your camera to mirror the settings in the pictures below.

The following is important:-

• Work with Mode-S - Shutter Priority for filmmaking (2nd image from the left)
• Set the Noise Filter to "Standard" (4th image from the left)
• Other settings - copy all the above settings to your camera
• Select the "Movie Specification Settings" menu - Press OK & copy the settings below
• Wind Noise Reduction - Always select the best option in windy conditions

In terms of image or movie sharpness, as said filmmaking is not like photography. Don't think of image sharpness when selecting video options, think data. The compression ratio determines how much data the camera records. Keep in mind the camera records 25 or 30 fully sized jpeg images per second.

The data transferred to the SD card is huge. This is why videographers use high-speed SD cards. For example, select F (above image) if you work with an older PC. In terms of SD cards, see the EM5 II specifications listed in the user manual. As long as you stay with 1080p, the EM5 MKII specification is all you will need for all the above Olympus cameras.

The basic setting selected up to this point is to prepare the camera for video recording. With the next step, we will determine the day to day video settings. Select "Movie Mode" on the camera mode dial and press OK. Next, you will see the "Live Control" below. Use the up/down arrows to scroll up or down to the video recording format. To change the video recording format, press "Info", and with the left and right keys to select the different options displayed in the image below. 

The above video format is perfect for home video recording. This video format determines:-

• The actual file compression rate SF or F (data compression or volume data)
• Frame rate (typically 25p for Europe and 30p for the US or cinema is 24p)
• Clip Recording Time (If you new to video, start with clips, its easy and works well)
• Slow-speed and high-speed recording is great for recording emotion
• Check the video format: 1080p and MOV (this should be visible in the selection)

Your camera is now ready for video recording. Similar to the SCP screen, "Live Control" offers quick access to important video settings. With Live Control, you can adjust the frame rate, change the clip recording time, select the recording speed (standard, slow or fast speed), and adjust the compression ratio from F to SF or vice versa. To disable the clips or slow/fast functions, select "Off".

Scroll up or down to activate or deactivate things like the microphone, and Picture Modes. Study the "video recording" screen below and you will see that Olympus added a few more interesting video effects at the bottom of the screen. You will find more on those in the user's manual.

Tip:- When using the camera digital zoom, change to MF. That will prevent the AF from hunting.

General video recording Tips and Techniques

A typical social media video should not be more than 4 minutes. In fact, one of the Instagram video options is only 60 seconds. People's average web attention span is between 2 and 5 minutes. In fact, I was watching a video and the presenter said the attention span is the swipe of a thumb, think of that! One can set the camera clip duration from 1, 2, 4, to 8 seconds. The aim is to record a collection of video clips related to the same storyline. The next step is to combine these clips in a storyline (video) with WorkSpace.

Press the Info button until you see the view below on your camera. Olympus cameras and WorkSpace offer basic "editing" functions. It's important to get the clip right in the camera. The first step is to set the shutter speed, to 1/50 or 1/60 depending on the frame rate (25p/24p or 30p). This is referred to as the 180-degree shutter angle. (Search my favorite videos page information on shutter angle)

With Shutter Priority selected, the camera is now in full Auto mode and will automatically select the aperture and ISO. When outside in sunny conditions, the camera will need higher shutter speeds. The challenge is the shutter speed should stay fixed at 1/50th or 1/60th. This is why we have ND filters. ND filters are used to control the amount of light reaching the sensor (exposure). Use the histogram and adjust the variable ND filter to control the final exposure.

To plan your movie or "walk my dog" report, see the points below:-

• Introduction - What can people expect (2 seconds Title or walking shoes & dog)
• The story - the story consisting of the different elements described below
• The closing - Text like "The End" or a short clip of the dog "resting" 

Use the following techniques to build the story:-

• Show an overview shot of the event, venue, or situation (slow panning movements)
• Find & record detail - zooming in, macro or close up's, focus on subjects or people
• Look for emotional moments - slow motion, close up facial shots, and/or animals

Tip:- Some Olympus cameras have a 120fps slow-motion option. Some are 720p and others 1080p. We selected 1080p for his article. That means the 720p options will not be a good fit.

See this interesting article with 7 tips on camera movements.

Additional comments and ideas

• Study YouTube videos for ideas on how to move the camera - practice & apply
• Configure the camera direction keys to control electric zoom on Oly EZ lenses
• Practice using the camera special effects (Picture Modes, Filters, Monochrome)
• Practice camera movements, working with/without the Camera Handle and IBIS
• Plan ahead, think what the final video/project will look like before recording
• Practice controlling available light using LED sources, reflectors, and flashes
• Home filmmakers do not really need Log Profiles and/or special flat profiles
• As you grow more advanced in editing, then 4K and Log Profiles are great
• Color Grading - when starting with video, Auto WB is perfectly OK and safe
• Study the Users Manual (P78-83) when it's your first Olympus video project

What you don't need

• Running in and out the camera screen to check your camera CAF
• 4K, 6K, or 8K to create great videos - 1080p or FHD is perfectly OK
• The lowest noise, highest DR, and fastest AF or the best EVF
• The best sharpest lens on the market - filming is not like photography
• Fact is, with practice Olympus cameras will deliver amazing recordings
• Panning the camera fast from left and right to test "Rolling Shutter" 

The GH1 is a classic and capable of producing great results - selling for +/- $65

Recording video clips and managing them in the camera

Follow the steps below when recording your first video clip:-

• Select the camera Movie Mode on the mode dial
• Use a storyline to help you identify which clips to record
• Fit a fixed or variable ND filter to the lens
• Set the shutter speed to 1/50th for 25p/24p or 1/60th for 30p
• Adjust the final exposure using the ND filter and check the histogram
• Select the "Clip" duration and recording speed
• Check IBIS plus digital stabilization for video is "ON" (MS1) 
• Press the "Red" recording button to start & stop the recording

While recording, you will see a small "clip" timer at the bottom right of the camera screen. When the clip is done the camera will automatically switch to the screen below.

Press the down button and follow the steps below. You can also press the Up button to review the clip. It's better to first go to the step below and review the clip later. The reason is when you review the clip first, you will not have an option to go back to the step below.

The above two images show the current projects and timelines in the camera. The first view you see is the view on the left after pressing the down arrow.

With the view on the left, you can remove clips from the timeline or start new projects. It's possible to work with multiple projects. One can move clips to the left or right on the timeline or up to "Create a New Project". One can also "Remove the Clip". The image on the right shows 2 projects. When done press OK.

Now you ready to record the next clip. Always check the clip recording time and recording speed before recording the next clip. If at any time you like to "edit" (shift clips on the timeline) while in the field, follow the steps below:-

Press the playback button to see the view on the above left. For more menu options press the OK button. This will open the menu on the right. This menu has no option to edit clips. To edit clips you need to press the Menu button to go back to the view on the left. Then turn the camera back dial one-click to the left to see the view below, on the left.

The above images show 3 steps. Follow these steps to edit or rearrange your project timeline. Press the buttons on the views in steps 1 & 2 (see the arrows). This will take you to step 3. In step 3, you select the clip you like to "edit" and press OK. This will take you to the view on the bottom left.

From the menu, select "Rearrange Order" and press OK. This will open the image on the right. Now you can move the clip to the "New" tab. You can also remove the clip. When done press OK. This will take you back to step 3. Select the next clip you like to move and press OK. Continue to apply the same sequence while editing the timeline. When done press the shutter button halfway to go back to video recording mode.

Below is an alternative method to edit the timeline.

To export the final video directly from the camera, press the image review button, and select "Export My Clips". Keep in mind exporting clips directly from the camera takes battery power and it can take a while.

When exporting the video with the camera, you need to check the following:

• Clip effects - Select one of six effects
• Transitions - Select "Fade" or "None".
• BGM - Background Music - the EM5 II has one melody pre-installed
• Clip Volume - Adjust the clip playback volume

The short video below was prepared with the EM5 MKII. When I exported the video, I selected no transitions, the Light Tone picture mode, and BGM (Back Ground Music). When uploading the video to YouTube, it is safer to upload the video in MP4 format.

In this project we selected MOV. To change the video format, open the video with Workspace and exported it again as an MP4 file. For more, see further down.

All video clips recorded with the EM5 II and the video was rendered in the EM5

Download clips from the SD card & editing in WorkSpace

Workspace has basic but functional video editing tools for beginners. They are similar to what you will see in advanced editing environments.

Please study the image below.

Workspace offers 4 easy steps to edit and prepare videos:-

1. Prepare and trim the clips with the Clip Trimming tool (Step 1)
2. Build the Timeline with the Merge Frames tool (Step 2)
3. Add external audio or music to your project
4. Export or render the final video

Follow steps 1 and 2 (see above image). If you need more information on WorkSpace, go to the help menu and download the pdf version of the WorkSpace User Manual. The image below shows how to organize your clips, where to file your "edited" clips, and how to save your final video.

Import the video clips from the SD card to the Video folder and the edited clips to the Projects folder. Give the edited clips descriptive file names and give each clip a "scene" number. When working with many clips it's important to clearly mark each clip. Study the example below.

I did not test the "add audio" or external music function on WorkSpace. Workspace does not have an audio editor. If you like to prepare separate audio files with music and sounds from the clips look for a separate audio editor you can use with your Mobile Phone.

The final step is to export your video. See the image below for more details. I used the MP4 format. When uploading MOV files to YouTube, they will be compressed and the results are not good. The export function (image below) is also a great tool to convert video formats. Open the video in WorkSpace and export it again with the new format.

Congratulations, you completed your first video project. Have fun, produce many videos, and show your grandchildren how it's done on Instagram...

Below is a video my wife recorded with her EM10 MKIII fitted with the 14-150mm. She uses full Auto Mode with no ND filters. She edits her clips in iMovie. This an example of not applying the basic video principles we covered in this article. It also shows that anything is possible.

Video clips recorded with the EM5 II and the video was prepared in WorkSpace

Final Thoughts and Q&A

How does one add Titles in WorkSpace

Olympus Workspace or the camera cannot add text to images or videos. One could prepare the text separately in Powerpoint. The idea is to then film a clip with the title:-

• Print the Powerpoint or Keynote page and film a 2s clip of the title
• For example:- Record a 2-sec clip of a black screen and then a 2-sec title clip
• The timeline will then have a 2-sec black, then the title, and then the video...
• You could also film the title clip directly from the PC screen (using a presentation)
• On my Mac, I have a screen recorder. (It records what is happening on the screen)
• With something like iMovie, text, titles, and openings are all done in iMovie

How to create separate Audio Tracks

Workspace has a basic Audio Editor but it does have the option to add separate audio tracks to the video. If you like to create a music track with a combination of sounds from your clips, try this:-

• Play the edited and ready timeline on your PC
• Simultaneously play a separate music track on your home stereo
• Adjusting the volume on these 2 tracks, use your mobile to record the final audio track
• Link the final audio track to your video with WorkSpace
• With a different editor like iMovie, this process is all done in iMovie

The above method might look like a strange technique but keep in mind it works. Add a bit of flair and creativity and you will have the necessary tools to create great video projects in WorkSpace.

How should I manage my web presence?

At the moment, much is written about vlogging and video reporting. Many photographers are discovering the power of video and people like to create holiday or event videos.

There are basically two on-line options, one is live streaming and the other is to first build the video from different clips. The first is a live event and for experienced presenters and vloggers. The second is great for storytelling and for those who prefer to control and select their best clips first and then edit a final movie. For those who are starting with a video and those who like to start a web presence, see the steps below:-

• Open a Google account which will give you access to YouTube
• Go to Google and YouTube Training Center and search for how-to videos
• The first step is to upload edited videos to YouTube
• From YouTube, share the links with friends and family
• Create an Instagram account
• Search the web for info, how to prepare images and videos for Instagram
• The final step is, be active, comment on others work, and follow people

What is the next step?

This is an open question. The options and variations to this question are endless. Keeping it simple, my advice is the following:

• Shoot longer clips to cut/edit shorter clips (from the same recording or clip).
• Move to more powerful video editing software, the options are:-
• Various iPad options of which one is iMovie
• iMovie for Mac is simple and easy to learn plus it's powerful
• I used Adobe Premiere Elements for years - great for video editing
• I stopped using Premiere Elements because it had a problem with Mac's
• I use Apple's Final Cut Pro, a professional video editing package
• Davinci from Black Magic is free for personal use and it's easy to learn
• Adding monitors, gimbals, microphones, and a camera cage
• Join groups or training courses to improve your video editing skills
• Join local clubs that do video as a hobby - its great for support

It is important to ask questions before buying new video gear. There are many great toys but chances are you will never use them.