Let's talk about OM-System and the OM-1 II

Last update:- 14th February 2024

Introduction. 

How do you rate the past 3 years with OM-System? For example, do you expect to find engine parts in the Doctor's consulting room or a history lesson in math class? What do you like to see as you walk through the offices at OM-System? How will it compare to the previous Imaging Activity at Olympus? Do you expect to see a proper R&D facility or a marketing office with software experts? Considering the latest deliverables from camera manufacturers like FujiFilm, Sony, Nikon, and Canon, did your experience with or perception of OM-System change over the past 12 months? 

Did AI create a reasonable reality of a typical marketing area for cameras..?

I have no inside knowledge of OM-System or whether their employees prefer Olympus or OM-System cameras. For example, should we view OM-System as a global distributor of photography gear, or do they share similar technology KPIs as the previous Imaging Business from Olympus? Shouldn't that be our top-of-mind awareness as we navigate and review different camera manufacturers?

Why the OM-System label on Olympus cameras?

It's uncomfortable to think of future OM-System products and questions like, why is your priority an OMS label on Olympus products? Didn't you negotiate brand equity and transitions from short-, mid-, to long-term? I also question the 25% premium customers will incur when selling their cameras for the new OM-1 II. Does the new price plus 25% justify the OM1 II  "improvements" and new label?

It reminds me of the iconic Olympus 12-40mm and 40-150mm f2.8 Pro lenses. It took one decision from OM-System to lose 20-30% of its resale value. Why not a simple strategy of adding a premium to the improved dust and splashproof ratings of the "new" OM-System lenses?

I also smiled when I saw the new 150 to 600mm f5.6-6.3 lens. Social media experts couldn't wait to remind us the full-frame version of this Sigma lens is 45% less expensive. Why is the OM-System version more expensive? Did OM-System request a series of obstructions inside the OM-System version because M43 lenses deliver less light to the sensor than FF lenses?😏

Imagine the counter-marketing dollars that will be spent on this beauty...

Why don't FF promoters see the benefits? Because it's time to have a new conversation about sensor formats. Olympus photographers with the EM1 II/III, EM1X, and OM-1s get an equivalent reach of 1200mm at f6.3 and up to 8.5EV camera/lens stabilization. Compare this to FF cameras and the ISOs plus cropping in post-processing to capture wildlife and birds at 1200mm. Chances are they will have more image noise with less than 20MP after cropping to an equivalent M43 view...

Fuji is a strong competitor with a long history in photography...

What about the OM-System 9-18mm f4.0-5.6 MZuiko lens? It's good to inject new life into this lens. However, there must be a reason why it received so much social media criticism. Full-frame competitors seemed OK with a Micro Four Thirds offer for bird and wildlife photography. Loyal "size and capture" consumers seem happy to spend thousands on huge FF lenses. Was the risk higher if FF consumers compared the tiny 9-18mm M43 lens to its full-frame relatives? How does one recognize a fanboy or promoter? They ALL repeat phrases with "cropping" or "it's a Kit" lens...

Study the types of lens elements Olympus used for this absolute gem...

One of the risks OM-System created is a small bird and wildlife segment. While the unique benefits of M43 lenses are undisputed, will the OM-1 II be as popular amongst influencers, events, street, travel, landscape, and portrait photographers? What if OM-System did the anticipated firmware update on the Olympus OM-1? Wouldn't that free their R&D team to design a new OM-System camera? These are valid concerns because traditional M43 or Olympus photographers increasingly purchase full-frame and APC cameras. That simply means OM-System gave other brands a huge opportunity...

Graduated ND filters and the new OM-1 II. Those working with gradients in Photoshop will appreciate my concern. Photographers do not want dark mountain tops, trees, buildings, or strange halos. This is why Adobe created better ways of separating critical objects from the sky. Why not GND filters or bracketing, advanced AI selections, and the final image in the OM-1 or Workspace?

Olympus EM1 III with 12-45mm f4.0 lens - ISO200, f6.3, 1/640. I applied my new Fuji Color Chrome effect to the Enhanced Raw File.

What could a real OM-System camera be like?

OM-System should assume a leading role and exit the sensor size and autofocus cycle. The new OMS camera should be like the Pen F, EP-7, and Fuji X100V with a new User Interface and a 20MP high-sensitivity BSI MOS sensor with the smallest M43 noise floor. The target segment should be street, family, travel, event, and hobby photographers. Focus on creative AI features versus AF AI. The new camera's AF system should be a clever derivative of the EM1 III (OM-5) AF system.

See this article for more about a new OM-System camera.

The focus should be creativity, flexibility, IQ, profiles, and a Workspace App for tablets and Mobiles. Study the unique needs of the target segment with new AI, computational, and creative features. You will be surprised to see which of my articles are most popular and by what margin...

Olympus EM1 II with 12-40mm f2.8 Pro lens - ISO200, f7.1, 1/800. My new Fuji Color and FX-Blue Chrome effect with the Enhanced Raw Format.

There is no reason why OM-System shouldn't excel...

Olympus EM-1 MKI with 60mm f2.8 macro lens - ISO100, f10, 1/50. My new Fuji Color Chrome effect with the Enhanced Raw Format.

Let's talk history and compare older OMDs to the OM-1 II.

Most of the features manufacturers rave about are unused statistics for most. For example, many don't care if the camera does 120fps with C-AF or videos in 6K 10-bit for more than 30 minutes. These features are designed for niche applications like Pro Photographers and Videographers working for corporate clients, and only promoters like reviewers track a bird's eye hiding in the trees.

I posted many examples in the past showcasing the high levels of unique and creative freedoms older OM-D and PEN cameras offer street, hobby, and travel photographers in 2024. Study examples like the EM10 II and EM1 MKI with the Enhanced Raw Format. That's not even mentioning the EM5 II or Pen-F. Just imagine the loyalty OM-System would enjoy if they celebrated the Olympus label.

With the correct pricing, which of the Professional cameras below matches your needs for 2024..?

Olympus OM-D E-M1 MK3

I never considered the MKIII being influenced to think it's a minor upgrade. I used my MKII for +4 years before reacting to a special on the MKIII. What a surprise when I learned just how different it was. It felt like Olympus guarded this BIG surprise until the improved features and IQ of the EM1 III.

I updated this OM-System slide for the Olympus EM1 III.

Olympus OM-1

The Olympus OM-1 was the final building block or R&D achievement of the Olympus Imaging Business. It reminds me of top designs like the EM5s, EM1, EM1 II/III, and Pen-F. It takes an effort to go back in time and remind myself how Canon and Nikon continued to sell DSLRs. Olympus assumed a winning role, became a trendsetter, and achieved fascinating mirrorless results in a DLSR world. 

It took large sums of counter-marketing dollars to smear these achievements.

OM-System used these slides during the launch of the Olympus OM-1 in 2023.

OM-System OM-1 MKII

Should one expect similar functional and IQ gains as the previous EM1 III? You won't find honest and factual information about the OM-1 II on social media. For example, I am so grateful that all my Oly lenses are "good copies."😏 According to social media experts, having 3 Olympus lenses without one flawed copy is nearly impossible. Guess what the first OM-1 II AF videos will be like? 

This is one of the best video presentations on the OM-1 II. It's in German but worth watching for our English-speaking friends because the presenter used OM-System slides. The OM-1 II improvements might be similar to the Olympus EM1 III in overall performance and Image Quality..?

This is the slide OM-System Ambassadors used for the OM-1 II launch.

Conclusion

One of the more troubling changes in the past years is dishonest marketing. This has become one of the most rewarding research activities for those seeking accurate info. How should one navigate this landscape? The best option is to question social media statements, learn more about the subject, and create personal references like testing products before buying them.

All the above slides are copies except for the EM1 III slide. I created it for this article. This OM-1 II presentation (12:15) from OMS showed 7EV IBIS for the OM-1. The original slide from 2023 shows 8EV. Here is the original 2023 OM-System video (3.54). The OM-1 specs confirmed 8EV...

Best Regards

Siegfried

Color and FX-Blue Chrome effect for Olympus

Last Updated:- 3rd February 2024

Introduction

The illustration below is a screen copy of my Workspace "before/after" display. Study the links below for a description of the Fuji Color and FX-Blue Chrome effects. I combined these descriptions into one beta Chrome Effect for Olympus. The Fuji Color Chrome effects work for all Fuji "Picture Modes," whereas the Olympus Color Adjust function only works in the "Natural" Picture Mode. The final Fuji Chrome Series for Olympus cameras could be 3 chrome profiles. (Color, blue, and combined)

This short article discusses two processes for developing a new profile. Why are the Olympus EP-7 and Pen-F so different? All digital cameras work with global adjustments like saturation, color filters, and White Balance. They require a good understanding of working with Opposite Colors. For example, the Olympus Color Creator and White Balance functions use analogous and/or opposite colors. Only the Color Adjust Tool of Workspace, Pen-F, and EP-7 target specific colors in the image.

Fujifilm Color-Chrome Effect - link

Fujifilm FX-Blue Chrome Effect - link

Olympus Pen F with beta Chrome profile.

Fuji Color and FX-Blue Chrome Effect - Version 1

The unique aspect of this Chrome effect is the steps I used to create the profile. The profile is my reaction to the two articles discussing the Fuji Color and FX-Blue Chrome effects. This can happen to anyone seeing or learning something new and like to express that experience in a color profile.

Download this 1st beta "Color and FX-Blue Chrome.oes" profile. Use the Batch tool in Workspace to open and save the profile on your PC. See my Workspace How-to page for more...

Fuji Color and FX-Blue Chrome Profile.

The Fuji Color plus FX-Blue Chrome Profile is designed for the Pen-F, EP-7, and compatible OMDs. For example, I successfully tried the profile on Raw files from my EM10 II and the original EM-1. Only the Pen F and EP-7 have the Color Adjust function and will accept Color Profiles. The alternative is to apply these profiles via the Enhanced Raw Format to compatible Pen and OMD cameras.

Study the above profile data (summary) and the steps below to tweak the profile:

1. Use the "Auto" option for your WB, or select a unique WB. (Critical step) 
2. Use Exposure compensation and the histogram to set the ISO brightness.
3. Use the different Tone Adjustments to tweak the camera's Gamma Curve.
4. Some Olympus cameras, like the EM10 II, do not have a Midtones Slider.
5. Use Exposure Compensation for those cameras lacking a Midtones Slider.
6. The Auto or Normal Gradation option varies your final Tone Curve shape.

Olympus EM1 II with 18mm f1.8 lens - ISO200, f7.1, 1/800. The Enhanced Raw File was converted with the Fuji Chrome Profile.

The Tonal Adjustments in the Camera and Workspace are Gradation, Shadows/Midtones/Highlights, and the Workspace Tone Curve option. Why do we need ISO brightness (EC) and separate Tonal Data Adjustments? Workspace and the camera's Gamma Curve convert the sensor's linear raw data to a human (JPEG) format. Tonal adjustments let us tweak the Gamma Curve in the camera and Workspace. Exposure Compensation (ISO) is part of the camera's Exposure Formula.

Study this article for more on exposure compensation, image brightness, and ISO.

Olympus E-P7 with 17mm f1.8 lens - ISO100, f8.0, 1/200. The enhanced Raw File was converted with the Fuji Chrome Profile.

Use the Color Adjust tool of Workspace to tweak the Chrome effect. I studied the above information from Fuji and converted +/-50 Enhanced Raw Files to create this Beta profile. What is the next step? The next version of the Fuji Color Chrome effect will be based on Color Cards and Test Images from my Fuji XT-5 and the Olympus Pen-F. Mail me your feedback or input for the 2nd version.

An example of using multiple steps. 1. Tweak the Natural Picture Mode. 2. Tweak the Color Style. 3. Image jpeg adjustments.

One could also use multiple steps to create a unique image look. This is a more advanced option because the different steps happen simultaneously. We can add another level with the Luminance and Hue options of the Color Adjust tool. The Pen F and EP-7 do not have these options. The first step is global adjustments (opposite colors), and the second is specific colors. (Adjust Color Function)

For example:

1. Tweak the Picture Mode via Color Filters and the White Balance.
2. Tweak the colors in the Color Style with the Adjust Color function.
3. Jpeg adjustments like Contrast, Saturation, Clarity, Dehaze, and Sharpness. 

Olympus Pen-F with the 9-18mm f4-5.6 lens - ISO200, f4.5, 1/1250 - Version 2 of the Color Chrome effect.

Fuji Color and FX-Blue Chrome Effect - Version 2

I used a "controlled" studio, standard camera settings, and Color Cards. Both cameras were in Manual Mode, with the XT-5 at ISO125 and the Pen F at ISO200. That meant I needed to correct the ISO brightness of the XT-5's raw sample in Fuji's X Raw Studio. I exported the different raw images as 16-bit Tiffs. That meant the color samples were ready for Workspace and the Adjust Color tool.

I used these 16-bit samples in the "Compare Multiple Images" display of Workspace. This enabled me to copy the XT-5 "chrome effect" and transfer it to the Pen F color card. The illustration below shows the original and the new Adjust Color Style for my Fuji Color and FX-Blue Chrome effect. 

You are welcome to download the new version here. - link

What is the main difference between these profiles? The Color Cards allowed me to create a more accurate version of the Fuji Color and FX-Blue Chrome effect. Only the Adjust Color tool has the new Color Style values. None of the other functions were used to create the new Color Style. This allowed me to use default values for the remaining Camera and Workspace settings. Verify that only the Adjust Color tool was adjusted before you continue to edit the profile in Workspace.

The previous version of the Fuji Chrome Profile was created from the information I found. The profile consisted of a combination of the Adjust Color function and other image settings. As can be seen, this method is not necessarily incorrect. It's simply a creative reaction to general information. The second method is more reliable because I used a different Color Card for each camera.

The new Fuji Color and FX-Blue Chrome effect has a specific Color Style. We only need the color style to apply the new profile. Any other image tweaks, like Tonal Adjustments, are unique to the scene. This makes the new profile very unique. It lets users develop a basic step-by-step process for using the profile and editing images with the new Fuji Color and FX-Blue Chrome effect.

Olympus OM10 II with 17mm f1.8 lens - ISO200, f3.2, 1/2500. Workspace with Version 2 of the Fuji Chrome effect.

More info on the Fuji V2 Chrome Effect? The final profile is not only more accurate, but it is also more user-friendly. How could that be? Workspace has become my default raw converter and editor in the past two years. Workspace and Photoshop cover +95% of my editing needs. I export my converted 16-bit Tiff files to Photoshop. Like everything, the more we use it, the more we learn.

The new profile highlights one of the main differences between Olympus and other brands. Almost all brands use global adjustments, whereas Workspace, the Pen-f, and the E-P7 allow us to adjust global and targetted colors. Targeted colors are unique for Workspace, Pen-F, and the EP-7. What makes it different is that the camera's Adjust Color Style is part of the Enhanced Raw Format.

Olympus Pen-F with 17mm f1.8 and the new Fuji Color Chrome effect.

It's critical to master the main difference between targeted and global settings. The Color Creator is an example of using Global Settings. The Color Creator, White Balance, and Color Filters change the selected and opposite colors. Color profiles created with Global Adjustments need additional steps, like tweaking the Image jpeg Settings. Targeted color profiles are only done in the Adjust Color tool. The resulting configuration defines the new Color Style. That means more freedom to edit and tweak the remaining image (scene) settings because the Color Style stays fixed.

How to use the new Fuji Color Chrome Profile? The first step is studying the above chart. The next step is downloading the new profile. Save it in your Workspace profile folder.

Do the following steps to open and edit your Fuji Color Chrome effect in Workspace:

• Open any Pen-F or EM1 Raw file and select the "Load Batch Processing file" option.
• View the camera settings in Workspace. You will see only the Adjust Color was used.
• The Adjust Color settings show the Color Style. That means you have the right profile.
• Study the above chart for tips to tweak and edit your image. Apply small adjustments.
• You can apply the following editing steps in Workspace:-
• Focus on the critical Raw settings like (ISO) Exposure Compensation and WB.
• The next step is to tweak the Gamma Curve with different Tonal Adjustments.
• The final step is typical Jpeg Image Adjustments and the Noise Filter selection.
• Adjust the Fuji Color Chrome effect (Weak/Strong) with the Adjust Color function.

Olympus Pen-F with 9-18mm F4 lens - ISO200, f4, 1/1000. The Pen-F with the Fuji Color and FX-Blue Chrome effect.

Everyone should try the color samples below to create a Fuji Color Chrome effect. For example, I only used saturation with the Adjust Color function. You could add Hue and Luminance adjustments for a more accurate profile. I used saturation adjustments in Workspace because I wanted the new Fuji Color Chrome Profile ready for my Olympus Pen-F and the EP-7.

Conclusion

The next step is taking a few images with my Fuji XT-5 and Olympus Pen-F. This is the best way to test the new Fuji Color and FX-Blue Chrome effect for Olympus. The challenge is the winter season, with poor conditions and cold photo walks. That means my final testing will wait a while...

Best Regards

Siegfried

Olympus EP-7 with 17mm f2.8 lens - ISO200, f5, 1/200. The EP-7 image with the Fuji Color and FX-Blue Chrome effect.

Use these Color Samples and Workspace to create your Chrome Profile.

The 4 things that could improve your Image Quality

Last update:- 22nd January 2024

Introduction

Many social media presenters introduced 2024 with a list of photography essentials. While having good intentions, it's surprising to see how well-known influencers repeat incorrect information.

This inspired me to review the following talking points and introduce a new technique:

1. "Focus" on the subject, and don't let the background or DR distract you.
2. Exposure Triangle - Replace "ISO Sensitivity" with "Image Brightness."
3. Discard all "size and capture" theorists explaining image sensors/cameras.
4. Knowledge and regular practice are +50% of what makes photography fun.

EM1 III w Lumix 35-100mm f2.8 - ISO200 (400), f8, 1/640. ISO400 plus ETTR (+1EV) gave me a +/-2EV brightness variation. See the article.

Imagine you are photographing a blue hour or city scene at night, and it's possible to adjust the image brightness just enough to get more details from street lamps and/or restaurant/shop windows...

How did I take the images below? I used a technique that control the sensor and ISO separately. That means I independently manage my sensor's saturation and the ISO (image brightness).

Figure 1.

1. Focus on your subject, and don't let the background distract you

I am a keen follower of the Danish photographer Thorsten Overgaard. I like his work, enthusiasm for Leica cameras, and passion for photography. Thorsten discusses 4 essentials that could improve your photography in 2024. Many presenters and photographers assume the ISO function on digital cameras is similar to film cameras. Folks, the ISO function does not adjust the sensor's sensitivity.

Watch Thorsten's video for more on his 4 essentials, like focusing on the subject...

2. Remove ISO Sensitivity from the Exposure Triangle

The best way to think of your ISO function is to view it as an in-camera brightness slider. The image sensor and ISO amplifier are separate components. The sensor's sensitivity is measured and adjusted at the factory. This is a once-off and permanent adjustment that prepares the image sensor for use with digital cameras. The ISO function simply amplifies the image signal from the sensor...

Study this article for more details.

Why is the "Digital Exposure Triangle" different? It allows us to improve our tonal (image) data. The ISO "sensitivity" theory limits our ability to manage the sensor's saturation. This and a lower Dynamic Range are why "experts" say ETTR isn't safe at higher ISOs. This article focuses on the benefits of having a saturated sensor and using the ISO as a brightness slider (image signal amplifier).

See this video I recently did on more advanced exposure techniques...

EM5 II & 7-14mm f2.8 lens - ISO800, f2.8, 1/250. The Advanced Raw File was converted in WS. The new ISO technique will benefit this photo...

The information below applies to all digital cameras:

1. The Shutter and Aperture are responsible for exposing the sensor.
2. The ISO function only amplifies the image signal from the sensor.
3. This doesn't mean the ISO is not part of the camera's exposure calc.

Consider this when you set your camera's exposure with the Digital Exposure Triangle:

• Reflected light (Shutter Speed and Aperture) controls the sensor's saturation level.
• More reflected light saturates the sensor. This improves the SNR, which decreases noise.
• Less reflected light decreases the Saturation/SNR. A smaller SNR increases visible noise.
• Study the Photons to Electrons conversion graph in one of my previous articles - link.

This brief summary explains why ALL digital cameras have visible noise at lower SNR values...

EM1 MKI & 12mm f2 lens - ISO1250, f2.0, 1/25. The Enhanced Raw File was converted in WS. These scenes benefit from the ISO technique.

3. Avoid any "size and capture" theorists explaining digital cameras

The left photo in Figure 1 is the JPEG from the EM5 II, and the one on the right is the converted and adjusted raw file. They're an expression of knowing your camera and Workspace. They are NOT the result of AI, computational photography, a LUT, or advanced image editing. Photographers in Group A will typically complain about the EM5's small sensor and its low dynamic range, and those in Group (image) B will discuss new ideas to improve their knowledge and technique?

Olympus EM5 II & 12-200mm f3.5-6.3 Lens - ISO200, f7.1, 1/500. The new ISO technique lets us control any highlights in the above scene.

4. Knowledge and practice are +50% of what makes photography fun

How did I create Image B (Figure 1)? I separately optimized the sensor from my ISO. Image quality is a function of sensor saturation, and image brightness is a function of the ISO, Gamma Curve (camera and WS), and Workspace (Exposure Compensation). The EM5 II is known for its image quality and the sensor's smaller noise floor. The DxOMark "Low-Light ISO" rating gives us a safe range to tweak our highlights in the camera and Workspace (WS). (1 to 2 stops are all we need)

This new technique consists of a few basic steps. The Image brightness can be adjusted in the camera or Workspace while the sensor is saturated. We can also use Gradation, Highlights/Shadows, and/or the WS Tone Curve to tweak the Enhanced Raw File's Gamma Curve in the camera or Workspace.

Olympus E620 w 12-60mm f2.8 Lens - ISO100, f8.0, 1Sec. 3 AE bracketed raw files were converted and edited (HDR) in Photoshop.

Are there other ways to create Photo B? Absolutely. I used this method to show the camera's sensor and ISO function. Some will say the EM5 II is ISO Invariant. Folks, the "size and capture" theory and "ISO Invariance" are marketing theories. Those pushing them can't clearly explain the origins of image noise (SNR), the sensor's noise floor, or why only "some" sensors are "ISO Invariant."

Here are the steps I used to create Image B:

1. Image A. The sensor was exposed (f4.0 and 1/25) at its base ISO200 (Auto Exposure).
2. The DxOMark "Low Light" Sports rating showed I could safely vary the ISO with +/- 2EV.
3. That meant the camera's "highlight" exposure settings should be f4 and 1/100 at ISO800.
4. I manually used ISO200, f4, and 1/80th shutter speed @ 20% ETTR (+/- 2EV highlights).
5. ISO200 gave me control over any clipping highlights with the camera and Workspace.
6. I applied my final ISO (brightness) adjustments via the Enhanced Raw File & Workspace.
7. With regular practice, it's also possible to edit the Gamma & brightness in the camera.

Olympus E410 w 14-42mm lens - ISO400, f13, 13 Sec. The highlights and general IQ of the E-410 will benefit from this ISO technique.

It takes time to visualize and create new techniques. It improves our experience in problem-solving, Olympus Cameras, and Workspace. For example, the concept of ALL sensors having a noise floor is part of this technique. It's only possible to control any clipping highlights with an optimally exposed sensor. I experienced no increase in noise for Photo B (ISO200, -2EV image) or the image below.

Here is another method to create Photo B (Fig. 1). Olympus cameras automatically vary the sensor's saturation level with AE Bracketing. That means the camera doesn't change the ISO in AE bracketing mode. Use ISO800 and the "2f 1.0EV" bracketing option to take 2 photos. Manually take another image at ISO200 (-2EV) and the 20% ETTR aperture and shutter values. Do your final Gamma Curve and image brightness adjustments in the camera or Workspace.

Olympus EM5 II w 7-14mm f2.8 lens - ISO64, f7.1, 1/125. ISO64 helped me to up the SNR and saturate the sensor.

Conclusion

Modern digital cameras and mobile phones are great products with excellent Image Quality. While AI re-uses (copies) almost anything someone else puts on the web, the difference is those who step away from reckless marketing theories, master their digital cameras and practice frequently.

This article showed the value of knowing your digital camera. It enabled me to control the clipping highlights while managing the sensor's SNR independently. This ISO technique is designed to benefit from the DxOMark "Acceptable Image Quality" rating, meaning I will have a minimum Color Depth of 18, a DR of 9EV, and an SNR of 30db (no ETTR) at ISO800. My ability to prioritize and select/edit older RAW files benefited from my ISO, Sensor Saturation, and SNR (visible image noise) knowledge...

One final example of timing, compositions, and complex exposures.

Alex Nail is a great landscape photographer. He took a group of photographers into the Drakensberg mountains. The vegetation in this mountainous region brought back memories of my Heimat, South Africa. Image quality is not only a function of your camera because all digital cameras have unique strengths and weaknesses. The joy of photography is mastering your camera's limitations...