Editing images with your Olympus Camera

Last Update: 27 April 2020

Experienced photographers rely on their equipment and experience when preparing for that winning image. Most photographers are familiar with image editing with Lightroom or Photoshop. The question is, how does one personalize your images in the camera?

Olympus Pen F with Lumix 14-140mm f3,5-5,6 @ ISO200, f7,1, and 1/400 shutter speed (Exposed for optimum Dynamic Range)

Most say, everything starts with good image quality, that is the reason why we purchase expensive camera gear. To record great image quality, we know we need to consider the following:-

• Make sure you selected optimum Exposure (Aperture and shutter speed + ETTR)
• Set the camera White Balance - This will improve the IMG color accuracy and IQ
• ISO impacts dynamic range and image noise, keep the ISO as low as possible

See these articles for information on how to improve your image quality

• My articles on the Olympus Creative Color - Series
• How to Improve image quality and reduce noise

This article applies to the following Olympus cameras:

• All Olympus OMD bodies
• Olympus Pen cameras, EPL5/6/7/8/9/10 plus the Pen F

This article has 3 parts:

• Discuss general but important camera settings and techniques
• How to prepare and edit raw or jpeg files in your camera
• How to personalize your images with the Olympus OI Share App

General camera settings

The settings I discuss in this section will improve your general experience with your camera. If you are familiar with these settings, please scroll to the next section.

I used my Pen F and the EM5 II to prepare the different images and illustrations for this article. I will not discuss all the camera settings available with your camera, please refer to your User Manual.

Image Quality

Shooting Menu 1:- Always select the RAW+JPEG option. This allows you to save your raw files for future use. Raw files do not change when editing your images in the camera. All edited images are saved as JPEG files in the camera. The RAW+JPEG option enables photographers.

Use your camera SCP as a window into which image settings are available with each Picture Mode. For example, use the camera SCP to check the jpeg file quality. You want your jpeg files set to LSF (Large Super Fine) to have more image data. If you need web-ready files, use smaller file sizes like Medium or Small. No matter what file size you select, always use SF (Super Fine). To change the image quality, go to the Custom Menu "G", and select "IQ Set". Follow the steps below:-

Image Aspect Ratio

Image aspect ratios are a personal choice and part of creating a unique personal style. The Micro Four Thirds sensor has a native ratio of 4:3. Raw files have a ratio of 4:3 with the full 16 or 20MP capacity. Photographers are generally comfortable using image ratios of 3:2 because that is the native ratio for APC and full-frame sensors. The image at the top of this article has a 4:3 ratio. This ratio is unique and a first step in differentiating yourself...

Customizing AFL and AEL

Mode 2 is a great choice when using SAF (Single Auto Focus). Think of a portrait photo with the model not in the center of the frame. Mode 2 enables you to point the camera to the subject, focus, and keep the shutter halfway while reframing and taking the image. The camera will measure the exposure when you press the shutter all the way.

"S-AF AEL/AFL" - Mode 2 is therefore good for static scenes. It's perfect for photographers using hyper-focal distances when doing street or landscape photography. Mode 2 is also great for weddings or portrait photography.

Mode 1 (camera default) is general and suitable for both moving and static subjects. When selecting Mode 1 you will not focus and reframe like you did with Mode 2. You will basically focus and take the image in one movement. The reason is Mode 1 measures and locks both AE and AF when you take the image.

Configure your camera for ETTR

Those not familiar with ETTR (Exposing to the Right), see this article. My preferred camera settings for ETTR are the following:-

• I always set my OMD back dial for exposure compensation. (Not the Pen F)
• I use the following exposure Info settings, Highlights, Shadows, and Histogram
• Camera Histogram set the over/under-exposure warnings limits to 254 and one
• Set the exposure (EV) steps to 1/3 EV steps and the ISO (Auto) steps to 1/3 EV
• Set Noise Reduction to Auto
• Noise Filter to "Low" (You can always change this when editing the raw file)
• ISO high limit to 1000 and the low limit to 200 (Rely on IBIS and not high ISO's)
• Depending on the scene, use full ESP or center-weighted exposure metering

Why do we use ETTR? The main reasons for using ETTR are:

• Recording more tonal data (image data)
• Improve image quality
• Reduce shadow noise

See this interesting article (7 Tips for getting better results with your Olympus Camera)

Olympus has an interesting function, Exposure Shift. It's important you first read the user manual. Using the exposure shift function, dial in an auto-exposure compensation of +3/6 (+.05EV).

One of the challenges in applying ETTR manually is the photographer needs a good understanding of exposure and the role of ISO. When using the Exposure Shift function it all is a little easier. My Pen F reacts a little differently than my EM5 II. You need to practice using this technique.

Select your preference AF configuration

For accurate focusing, select the center group or the single frame AF option. Olympus cameras have two single AF frame options. The small AF frame (image on the right) is more accurate and perfect for macro photography. Using all the focus points is not always the most effective way to apply your camera autofocus. Selecting the single AF frame option will offer several advantages:

• The center AF point is almost typically a cross-type focus point
• It is fast and the camera will focus accurately in various situations
• It complements the AF Mode 2 (AEL and AFL) we discussed above
• The photographer is in charge and not some eye-tracking or AI protocol
• This is a great strategy for repeatedly having the same result

Personalizing your images in the camera

There are basically three ways to create our own personalized images in the camera:-

1. Do not be afraid to select and experiment with the "standard" Picture Modes
2. Experiment with the Creative Color functions like Curves and the Color Creator
3. Create your own custom profiles or presets (Camera, WorkSpace, and OI Share)

Using Olympus picture modes

In my Creative Color series, I said it's important to make small adjustments when changing contrast, saturation, or sharpness. Apply one click at a time and test the effect for a few days until you find a combination that works well for you. I used the following Pen F settings for all the images below:-

• Picture Mode (Vivid)
• Contrast (+1)
• Saturation (-1)
• Graduation (See image notes)
• Curves

I then used different tonal (curve) settings on the image in the middle and the image on the right. I used the following settings for the image in the middle:-

• Shadows (-2)
• Mid tones (-3)
• Highlights (+1)
• Graduation (Normal)

With the image on the right, I activated Graduation which lifts the shadows and balances highlights and mid-tones. Besides, I used the following tonal settings:-

• Shadows (-4)
• Mid Tones (-3)
• Highlights (-4)
• Graduation (Auto)

The tonal (curve) function is great for adding that unique image look or when "pulling back" the excess brightness you get from ETTR. Here are a few curve adjustments (profiles) you can use and practice with:

• Add contrast - Highlights (+1) and Shadows (-1) - for more contrast, Shadows (-2)
• ETTR images - Pull back the Mid Tones while checking the histogram
• Misty look - Highlights (-2), Mid Tones (+2), Shadows (+3), and Contrast (-2)
• Experiment with the camera curves function, it's a powerful creative tool...

Olympus creative color functions

With the OMD EM5 II Olympus took the bold step and introduced the Color Creator. The Color Creator introduced Olympus owners to the artist's Color Wheel and color concepts like opposite or complementary colors. The Pen F took this to the next level by introducing the Color Profile and the MonoChrome Profile tools. The Pen F inspired me to write a 6 Part Creative Color series. 

You will find Part 6 here.

Olympus Scene Modes and Art Filters offer creative photographers more creative options. The key is to practice using SCP. The SCP will show you when curves are available and when not. Curves are available with ART filters and not with SCN modes. The steps below demonstrate how to activate the SCP for the different camera Modes.

Many Olympus owners do not know it's possible to fine-tune ART filters with curves. You can now select any ART filter and fine-tune that ART filter to create the image look you prefer. See the example below or at the bottom of this article:-

Another option I discovered with B/W ART filters, is the option to apply color filters and/or change monochrome base colors. See the SCP or ART filter menus below.

These color options are available with the:

• Dramatic Tone II
• Grainy Film 1
• Grainy Film II

Another option is Photo Story. Photo Story has different in-camera image templates. Each template has different options to finish the final Photo Story look and feel. This is a great way of creating your own unique Instagram presentation...

Photo Story Template

Instagram images have an image ratio of 4:5 or 8:5. The 2nd ratio is more complex because it's best done in Photoshop with the slice tool. You can prepare your 4:5 ratio in the camera or with the OI Share app. Before uploading your image to Instagram resize the image vertical to 1350. See the example below...

Editing your raw files in the camera

I never used this function. I was pleasantly surprised to see just how much one can do with the camera. With your Olympus camera, you can edit raw files and JPEG files separately. The raw editor is more flexible and powerful than the jpeg editor.

Follow the steps below to open the camera raw editor:-

Step 1 - From the "Playback" menu select "Edit"
Step 2 - Select "Sel. Image"
Step 3 - Scroll through your images until you find the image you like to edit, press "OK"
Step 4 - Select "RAW Data Edit"
Step 5 - Next you will select how you will edit your raw file, see the descriptions below

Option 1 - "Current"

The camera will take the current camera configuration and apply that to the raw file. You need to prepare any special settings before opening the editor.

Option 2&3 - "Custom" 1&2

Here you have two options:-

Option 1

Select Custom 1 or Custom 2 and press OK. The camera will use the previously used Custom adjustments. Think of Custom 1 or 2 as "editing" profiles.

Option 2

Select Custom 1 or Custom 2 and press the right arrow. Next, you will see the raw editor. See the images below.

Scroll through the different raw settings to edit/adjust your camera raw file. The settings you use will become part of the Custom "profile". Next time you select the Custom option and press "OK", these settings will be applied to your raw file.

When done press "OK" and then "Yes". The edited raw file is now saved onto the memory card. Next press "No" and you will be able to select the next image...

I did not discuss all the different editing functions separately, we will do that in the next article. You could also try the jpeg editor. You will see the raw editor has more editing functions.

Olympus OI Share and OI Track

Most Olympus cameras have a Wi-Fi function and some of the later models have Bluetooth. This makes it possible for you to track your location, control your camera, upload images, and edit images with your mobile phone. This is great news for those traveling.

See the Olympus OI Share Page
See the Olympus OI Track Page

How-to connect to these applications? I first connected my OI Share app with my camera (EM5 II) and next, I connected the OI Track app. It's easy to make the connection, press the WiFi logo on the back of your camera screen, and follow the steps below...

Now you are ready to start using your Olympus App with your camera. See the images below showing some of the editing screens available with the OI Share Application.

The image on the left is the application "Control Center" from where you have access to all the App settings and functions. In my follow-up articles, I will discuss more.

The interesting part is, that as you get used to working with WorkSpace, the different camera functions, and the mobile phone application, you will find all use the same look and feel. You basically familiarize yourself with one set of tools with which you can do most of your cataloging, image editing, editing on the go, and image sharing...

Olympus Color and Creative Photography - Part 6

Last Updated: 28the July 2023

Introduction.

The Pen-F continues to be an excellent camera in 2023. This is the third iteration of this article. I added a brief overview of the Olympus Color and Creative Photography program and an example of a Fuji film profile for Olympus cameras. The OMD EM5 II was the first Olympus hybrid camera with the full Color and Creative Photography package from Olympus. The Olympus Pen-F and E-M1 II introduced the new Enhanced Raw Format and Olympus Workspace.

The original design of digital cameras is based on the core elements of analog photography. The focus was photography, sensor types, manual or autofocus, and exchangeable lenses. These core elements have improved over the past 20 years, and modern digital cameras generally produce good image quality. The only negative is the price/performance ratio became worse each year.

Olympus recognized this in the 1990s and added more core elements to its strategy. They introduced the first version of the Color and Creative Photography concept with the E-30, and the original OMD EM5 was the first Olympus camera with the LIVE COMP feature. This was also the first Computational Feature from Olympus. Interestingly, competitors and reviewers ignored this development until more recently. The OMD EM-5 II and the Pen-F introduced the next generation of this strategy.

It all started with this camera in 2015. They continue to deliver exceptional value and can be found for less than $400.

We will discuss the following in this article:-

1. Introduction
2. A brief overview of Olympus M43 cameras
3. The differences between Fuji and Olympus
4. Olympus Color and Monochrome Profiles
5. Conclusion

2. A brief overview of Olympus cameras

Imagine that Canon launched the EOS 760D, Nikon the D7200, Sony the A7 II, Fuji the XT10, and Panasonic the G7 when Olympus launched the OMD EM5 MKII. Forum "experts" and reviewers raved about the Canon and Nikon DSLRs in 2015 because they had more megapixels, dual autofocus, and Live View. At the same time, Olympus unveiled its new Color and Creative Photography concept with the EM5 II. It took most competitors 8+ years to fully compete with the EM5 II...

I update my articles as I learn more about the Olympus Color and Creative Photography strategy. This includes technical updates, general information, and more about the Olympus Live MOS sensor. Did you know Olympus identified and perfected new technologies up to a decade before its competitors introduced anything similar? The Olympus version of IBIS is an excellent example of this...

Olympus EM5 II with 60mm f2.8 macro lens - High-Resolution Mode, Color Creator, edited in Workspace.

A short summary of the Color and Creative Photography concept from Olympus:-

1. The 1st camera that introduced the unique Color Creator was the OMD EM1.  
2. The Olympus Pen-F introduced Color Profiles and MonoChrome Profiles
3. The ability to tweak the camera's Gamma Curve started with:
1. Highlights/Shadows (EM1) and the Midtones EM5 II)
2. The "Auto" Gradation option in the Olympus E520 DSLR
3. The Tone Curve function in Viewer and later Workspace
4. Great features like Live Composite and Live Time are unique to Olympus
5. The Olympus iEnhance Picture Mode plus Color Filters (basic color filters)
6. The Olympus SCN modes and ART filters improved with new cameras - EP7
7. Olympus replaced Viewer 3 with WorkSpace with more advanced integration
8. Workspace introduced the Enhanced Raw Format that is unique for Olympus
9. For example, WS has the same Image Processing environment as its cameras
10. I discovered Workspace simulates "Live View" after hours of editing with WS
11. Then we have the "old-school" saturation, contrast, and sharpness (all brands)
12. Features - Pro-Capture, High-Resolution mode, Live ND, and Focus Stacking
13. Olympus designed and added a new core element with powerful creative features

Why call it Color and Creative Photography? It's an expression of how M43 photographers see the world. Forum experts and reviewers pixel-peep or say the High-Resolution function is limited to static scenes. M43 photographers embrace new technologies like the High-Resolution function. They view food, products, sunrise or sunset, and landscape photography like high-resolution options. They will use the High-Resolution function as an ND filter for moving water and street photography. They know High-Resolution applications improve the camera's dynamic range and visible noise. Creative M43 photographers understand high-megapixel applications and celebrate new features...

Olympus EM5 II with 12-200mm Lens ISO200, f6.3, 1/650 - Enhanced Raw converted in WS - Color Creator.

Only some photographers realized what happened when Olympus introduced the new Pen-F. We can compare the Olympus Color and Creative Photography concept with IBIS. It took Olympus 13 years to create a perfect IBIS solution and introduce 7.5 stops of in-body image stabilization for the Olympus EM1 III. Promoters spend hours distracting M43 photographers by claiming Olympus didn't invent IBIS. Canon likes you to believe they did more in 1 year than Olympus did in 12 years.

While being an exciting creative camera, the Pen-F always felt like an experiment. Was this a strategic decision from Olympus to test their advanced Art Processing capabilities in the Pen F? At the same time, camera reviewers and forum promoters complained about the placement of the Creative Dial as they wisely labeled it a marketing gimmick? They also pushed for full-frame DSLRs, more megapixels, 4K video, Live View for DSLRs, Mic inputs, and headphone outputs? 

The Pen-F Press Release notice continues to be a good read in 2023.

Press release summary: The Monochrome and Color features of the Pen-F started a new era for creative photography. It allows us to apply a new color and monochrome concept, plus the ability to follow any changes in the camera with Workspace and Live View. The Pen-F and the EP-7 are the best choices for photographers wanting advanced Color and Creative Photography features.

Olympus Pen-F with 17mm f1.8 lens - ISO500, f4.5, 1/60 - Enhanced raw file edited in Workspace - Color Creator.

3. Color Profiles and the differences between Fuji and Olympus

This is a great subject and could fill many pages of a separate article. I have been using Fuji for more than 2 years. The reason I bought the X-T4/5 is the ongoing uncertainty about OMS. OM-System did a great job launching the Olympus OM-1 and deserves positive feedback. I prefer Olympus used cameras like the EM5 II/III, Pen F and EP-7, OMD EM1 I/II/III, and the Olympus OM-1.

I prefer to support manufacturers with a history in the photography segment. Fujifilm is one of those companies. I bought my Fuji X-T5 shortly after it was introduced. The Fuji X-T5, Olympus EM1 III, and Pen F are great examples. The long-term viability and future of OM-System continue to be an open question. See my thoughts on the new O-M5, the OM1 II, and the lack of a Pen F II.

3.1 What's the difference between Olympus Color Profiles and Fuji

The difference is X-Trans sensors and the Color Filter Array. Don't let reviewers or forum promoters tell you it's Fuji marketing like they did with Olympus. Fuji is a market leader in traditional analog photography and how to integrate that experience in its modern X-Trans image sensors. Do your own research by starting with the above Fuji information.

Source: Fujifilm X-T5

Fuji cameras come with a selection of up to 18 film simulations like Provia (standard), Velvia (Vivid), Astia (soft), and several B&W and monochrome options. Each has a unique description to guide the photographer when selecting a film simulation. I never saw similar film simulations for Olympus or any other camera brand. One can add a Color Chrome Effect to these film simulations and the blue skies. The color chrome effect reminds me of the Color Creator from Olympus.

Study this link about the Fuji X-T5 and go down to the film simulations. The biggest strengths of Fuji and Olympus cameras are color, image quality, and the option of having the final image in the camera. The Fuji film simulations and JPEG files are superior to any other brand, and the Olympus Color and Creative Photography concept is better than anything else in this segment...

Fujix Weekly developed a unique community of Fuji owners. They created film filters like the one below. These filters are based on standard Fuji film Simulations with simple variations of basic camera settings. See the example below.

A new color Color Filter for the X-T5.

How to copy Fuji's film simulations for Olympus:-

• Fuji Film Simulations - The Pen-F and E-P7 are the only cameras that can do this
• Fuji Film Simulations - Workspace compliments the Pen-F and the E-P7 functions
• Clarity and Color Chrome - Use Clarity in WS and the Color Creator = Chrome Effect
• DR100%, DR200% - this is a clever feature from Fuji (See this article for more info)

EM5 II with the Lumix 35-100mm f2.8 lens - ISO200, f5.6, 1/250 - Raw file converted in WS - I added a Chrome effect with the Color Creator.

Is it possible to use Fujix Weekly Color Filters with the EM5 III? We first need to study the Fuji Film Simulations and their descriptions. The next step is to replicate Fuji Film Simulations for the EM5 III. Some presenters say it's possible with the OMD and PEN cameras. I found these Fuji film simulations are too complex for OMD cameras. Only the Pen-F, E-P7, or Workspace will replicate them.

For example, the Classic Chrome Simulation description says, "slightly desaturated colors (reds and greens) with stronger shadow contrasts for dramatic lighting, retro-style subjects, and reportage projects." It's a safe place to start replicating these Classic Chrome Film attributes with something like the Olympus EM10 II or the EM5 II. These are the settings I used:

• Desaturated Colors - Select the Muted Picture Mode plus A -2 and G -2 (SCP)
• Desaturated Colors - Go to the SCP and set the RGB setting to -2
• Harder Shadow Contrasts - Select Highlights +2, Shadows -3, and mid-tones -2
• We can do more with the Pen-F because it's better at adjusting individual colors.

The above settings replicate only the Classic Chrome Film Simulation. The Kodachrome 64 Filter settings have to be added on top of that. This is a process of working on the different parameters until you reach the right look. I tested the above profile with my EM5 II against the XT-5. I could only get approximately 85% of the Classic Chrome simulation with my EM5 II. I also used the Color Creator to create a Chrome effect with the following settings: Color = 2 and Vividness = -2.

Fuji X-T5 with 27mm f2.8 lens - ISO400, f5.6, 1/1100 (Provia/Standard).

Olympus EM5 II Kodachrome 64 Profile

• Picture Mode: Muted (See this video)
• Grain Effect: Set the max ISO to ISO1600
• Color Chrome: Use the Color Creator (See this article)
• White Balance "Daylight": (A 0) and (G -7)
• Highlight: +2
• Shadow: -3
• Midtones: -2 (Adjust between -1 to -2)
• Gradation: Normal
• Color: -1 (RGB)
• Sharpness: +1
• Noise Reduction: None
• Clarity: Can be added in Workspace (Enhanced Raw File)
• Auto ISO up to ISO2000 (fixed)
• Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 EV

The main difference between Olympus and other cameras is the Pen F and the Pen E-P7. The "Color Adjust" and Monochrome Profile functions are far superior. I am not planning to copy more Fuji film simulations or Fujix Weekly Filters for Olympus cameras. Your best option is to buy a secondhand Fuji camera like the XT-20/30 if you like to try Film simulations or Fujix Filters...

Olympus EM5 II with Lumix 12-35mm f2.8 lens - ISO200, f6.3, 1/400 - Raw edited in WS with Color Creator.

4. Color and Monochrome Profiles

This is the final article in this 6-part series discussing Color and Creative Photography. Did you know all the color settings on your Olympus camera are available in Workspace and the Enhanced Raw Format? It's possible to tweak your Color Creator, Color Profiles, and Monochrome Profiles in Workspace. It's the only raw converter that accesses the camera's Art Processor.

I decided to rewrite this section and focus on one question only. What do we need to develop profiles, and what are the main steps when creating color or monochrome profiles?

I did only a few color profiles because I prefer how photographers benefit from learning to work with color. I hate to be the reason why photographers accept things like the "size and capture" theory. Some of the most critical skills in the modern age are critical thinking and a creative mind...

4.1 The Color Wheel

The Color Creator, the Adjust Color, and the Monochrome Profile functions are all based on the RGB Color Wheel. I created the one below as I studied my new Pen-F. I learned much from designing the color wheel and adding the specific Olympus information on the Color Wheel.

Do we need a Color Wheel like this? We don't need one because the Color Creator, the Adjust Color, and Monochrome Color Wheels are similar. These functions can be used to make quick decisions, like finding opposite colors or color harmonies. See this article for more about the Color Wheel, Opposite Colors, and Color Harmonies.

Opposite Colors are critical for Olympus. For example, how does one adjust the White Balance setting with the Green and Amber options in the SCP? Cameras like Fuji or Panasonic use a nifty color matrix function to fine-tune the WB. It relies on Opposite Colors and the Color Wheel. I added the Olympus WB adjust sliders to the Color Wheel. The opposite of amber is blue, and green is magenta. Positive values change the colors amber and green, and negative values are magenta and blue. Study the WB adjust sliders on the color wheel. Also, study the WB sliders in Workspace.

4.2 What do we need for Color Profiles?

Practice with the Color and Creative Photography functions as much as possible. Master your Olympus camera functions and Workspace. For example, do you visualize concepts like the SNR to ISO ratio or any adjustments for the Color Creator? Do you use the Color Creator?

The following illustration summarizes the Color and Creative Photography features of Olympus. We can create Color Monochrome Profiles in the camera or with Workspace. The Enhanced RAW Format helps us to test our profiles on our PCs. The only differences between Olympus cameras and Workspace are Tone Curves adjustments and the Hue and Brightness sliders for the Color Adjust function in Workspace. Only Workspace will combine multiple options like ART and Color Filters. 

The video below discusses Color and Creative editing examples. Also, see this video on how to edit your images in Workspace. These two videos give a good introduction and advanced overview of Workspace. The secret is to spend time and do lots of editing and practicing with Workspace. YouTube selected a lower resolution for this video. Goto settings and set the resolution to 1080p.

The following YouTube Video gives a short introduction and overview of FujiFilm X Raw Studio. The information will help you to see the differences. The sound is not OK. I am planning to do more recordings on Fuji.

5. Conclusion

My goal was to assist readers in learning more about the Color and Creative Photography features of Olympus. Yes, we can get similar results with Lightroom or Photoshop, but having your camera settings available in Workspace is super special. Workspace, therefore, requires a different editing style that needs time to practice and master. Workspace also works best for photographers who do things right with their cameras. Workspace is NOT a rescue package for incorrectly exposed images...

The benefit of regularly working with Workspace is your editing skills and ability to develop color profiles improve. See this article (Technique 19) for more on Workspace and working in Live View. 

It's becoming more difficult to find secondhand Pen-F cameras in excellent condition. Get yourself a Pen-F or the EP-7 if you find one in good condition. These cameras will continue to be the ultimate creative color tools for Photographers. The E-P7 and its excellent image quality are a good choice.

Here are the first 5 articles in this series below:-

• A new color strategy from Olympus, Part 1 - link
• Digital Cameras and Color Accuracy, Part 2 - link
• Color Wheel and Olympus Color Creator, Part 3 - link
• The Color Profile function in WorkSpace, Part 4 - link
• Using your camera and editing in WorkSpace, Part 5 - link

Pen F Profiles with DXO FilmPack 5

Last Update: 7th Aug 2021

Introduction

Ever wondered what it's like to work with Fuji film simulations on your Olympus camera? Do you like to have more flexibility or are you happy with the standard camera adjustments, like sharpness, saturation, and the WB sliders? With the Olympus Pen-F and E-P7, it's possible to create Color and Monochrome Profiles in the camera.

For example, I was curious about these film simulations in Fuji cameras, so I tried the Fuji XT-10. The Fuji simulations are interesting and they are fun to use. The downside, it's not possible to fine-tune these profiles. You literally end up with the same look as any other Fuji photographer. The benefit of using Fuji film simulations, these are complex profiles and ready to use.

It is possible to create similarly complex film simulations in WorkSpace because the Color Creator in WorkSpace allows the photographer to set the saturation, hue, and brightness. With the Pen-F and the E-P7, it's only possible to adjust saturation with the Color Creator. 

See this article for more on Enhanced Raw files...

This article describes a unique method to create your own color profiles. I created different color cards with DxO FilmPak 5, and each of these color cards represents a different film simulation. Included is a standard "neutral" color card with no film look.

Probably the most important piece of advice I could pass on is to allow yourself lots of time. If you are new to creative color concepts, allow yourself lots of time and practice. It literally took me months of studying, practicing, going back to articles I read before, and to keep trying. The same is true for WorkSpace. It's a remarkable piece of software once you master it. I can only encourage readers to keep on studying my article and to keep on practicing. It's so much fun when you win...

Why create Fuji or Kodak film simulations for the Pen F?

DxO claims that..... "DxO FilmPack 5, faithfully applies legendary color-negatives, black and white film presets or slide film presets for digital images."

FilmPack 5 has different Kodak, Agfa, and Fuji film presets. The user can further modify these presets and save them as personalized profiles. If you asked me, I personally prefer working with FilmPack 5. The only reason I develop my own "scaled-down" Pen F profiles is the fun aspect and to have my own profiles when I am out photographing.

How to Create your own Profiles?

The secret with the Pen F is to know that you cannot simulate a film look as accurately as you would with DxO FimPack 5 or WorkSpace. Always use the raw + jpeg option on your camera so that you have the ability to edit your "Enhanced Raw" files in WorkSpace.

Further down in this article I created 5 image groups. Each group has a set of images with a master (neutral) on the left and a film simulation on the right. The process of creating your own profiles is simple. As you studying the film simulation, adjust the master until they look the same.

The final group of images is the same film simulations but now they are applied to a Spider Color Checker. You can download the master (neutral) color checker and the different film simulations here. I matched the colors on the Color Checker to colors on the Color Creator in WS. See my WS how-to page for more info on the V1.5 update and the new color additions.

Olympus WorkSpace

DxO film simulation and master color card opened in WorkSpace

To create your own profiles, open both the film simulation and the master copy in WorkSpace. The film simulation is your master and your aim is to apply the colors in the film simulation to the master copy with the WS color creator. This really is an advanced method of creating profiles and requires lots of practice. See the steps below and see if they work for you:-

• Before adjusting the master, study the 2 templates. Summarize all the differences
• Identify the dominant colors or any specific look like pastel and write it all down
• The numbers on the color card correspond with the numbers on the color creator
• It works well to start with RGB colors, followed by CMY colors, then adjust the rest
• List the steps and color sequence you think you need to follow when creating the profile
• These first few steps are important because its a process you develop and improve on
• Start with RGB colors adjusting saturation, hue & luminance, then CMY and others
• Adjust small steps at a time, finish one color before moving to the next
• Some colors have more than one number - it takes a little more time to master
• Make regular breaks - after 15 minutes they all look the same...
• The final step is to test your profiles and to compare them with the profile images
• I strongly recommend you get DXO Filmpack 5. These are still the best profiles

The best way to develop your own profiles is practice. As I listed above starting with RGB colors is one way of progressing when building your profiles. Another method that works well is, follow the above steps analyzing and prepping your new profile. Instead of starting with RGB colors, follow these steps:-

• Select "All Colors" on the creator and test if a "global" saturation change is required
• Deselect the "All Colors" and target individual colors following the next 3 steps below
• Next target all the single-digit colors and adjust them (Example is the colors marked "1")
• Next adjust colors with double numbers, where one of the numbers were one of the above
• You will see very few numbers are left to adjust after following the above sequence
• Testing and fine-tuning your new profile is critical - this takes time and patients

Keep in mind the Color Creator in WorkSpace is more powerful than the Color Creator in your Pen F. You will typically build separate profiles, one for WorkSpace using the 3 color profile options Hue, Saturation, and Brightness, and a separately simplified profile for the Pen F using only saturation.

Color Profile in WorkSpace

As said, it is a little more challenging to create profiles for the Pen F because the Pen F color profile will mainly have saturation changes. Think of combining the color creator with curves and contrast adjustments, or in special cases fine-tune the camera WB sliders to get a final look. I mostly develop my Pen F profiles with WorkSpace. When done, I enter the profile manually into my Pen F.

I keep a list of all my profiles information on my mobile phone. For more information on how to save your Pen F profiles to your PC, see my WorkSpace, how-to page (Technique #7).

The image below is from this Olympus website.

Image pulled from the web with Exif data of the profile used

See my Creative Color series Part 6, discussing how to work with color in WorkSpace. You could also consider downloading a test version of DxO FilmPack 5.

Use the master color checker to copy Fuji profiles or any other profiles you like to use as inspiration. Always have a separate master copy ready and use a "working" master to photograph or apply software profiles as inspiration when creating new profiles.

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Color Checker Group