Photoshop, PhotoLab, Luminar & WorkSpace

Last Update: 28th Nov 2020

Most photographers are familiar with Photoshop, PhotoLab 3, Luminar 4, and WorkSpace. Others use image editors like Lightroom, ON1, Capture One, or Topaz. In 2005, when I bought my first digital camera, I learned all about image editing with Photoshop Elements 2 and Paint Shop Pro.

With this article, we will take a quick look at Photoshop CC, PhotoLab 3, WorkSpace, and Luminar 4. We discuss some of the strengths and weaknesses of these editors and how they complement each other when used together in post-processing.

Olympus XZ-1 - edited with PhotoLab 3 and Luminar 4 (Sky was replaced with Luminar)

When evaluating different cameras, it is always important to rate them on how edit-friendly each camera's images are. You probably think, why do that? Some brands are just more flexible during post-processing. For example, Panasonic is known for its sharp images. That said, older Panasonics had color issues like skin tones, greens, and blue skies. It was difficult to correct these faulty colors. More recent models like the GH4, GH5, and the G9 improved significantly.

In terms of color and editing, my favorite brands were Olympus and Canon. The editing flexibility of these brands is excellent. When Olympus launched the EM5 MKI, it felt like the dynamic range was infinite, especially when compared to the older EP3 or the Canon 700D, which I also used at the time.

Paging through my EM5 image collection and studying them, I was glad that I always used the JPEG + RAW option. If you ever considered using raw files, my advice is to start as soon as you can. The reason simply is, that raw editors continue to improve every year...

Olympus EM5 w 12mm f2 Jpeg file,  ISO200, f5.6, 1/1000 (No editing - as-is from the camera)

The above image is not really great but interesting in terms of post-processing. The reason is the sky was not clear and the position of the sun was not good. My camera's default profile settings were set to neutral. The best would have been to take the image in the early morning or late afternoon. The reason for selecting this image was, that I wanted to push it a little and study how it reacts with the different image editors. See the descriptions below each image for more information on how I edited them.

The raw file - edited with WorkSpace

Raw file - edited with DXO PhotoLab 3

Raw file - edited with Photoshop CC

Raw file - edited with Luminar 4

The above images were all taken in Lucerne, Switzerland. As you have seen in the descriptions I edited the same raw file with different image editors. If you spend enough time editing the different images, it is possible to get them to look the same. The approach will be different for each editor, but with a little patience, you will see the results you looking for.

Having said that, working with the different image editors, you also learn the strengths and weaknesses of each of these image/raw editors. If you prefer more creative freedom I think Luminar is currently the most exciting option. On the other hand, PhotoLab 3 is very true and capable, especially when combined with DXO filters like FilmPack 5 or the Nik Pro collection.

Raw file - edited with PS then opened in Luminar as a filter - EM5 w 12mm f2.0 - ISO200, F6.7, 1/1000

That said, you should not underestimate Photoshop. It does everything these different editors specialize in. The main plus something like PhotoLab 3 or Luminar 4 offer, is the low cost, ease of use, and the fun factor. I also like how DXO does its lab tests, to measure camera and lens data. They then use this data to improve the results from PhotoLab and Filmpack. This is especially interesting for Olympus.

Olympus XZ-1, ISO100, f2.8, 1/800 (jpeg)

The above image was taken in 2012 when my wife and I visited Paris. You will see this is again not a great image because I made all the mistakes one should avoid making. For example, I pointed the camera to the sky, and the camera then focussed (exposed) on the clouds. The street level was underexposed with more shadow noise. The little Olympus XZ-1 is way more capable when exposed correctly. 

You will see from the other examples, and how I applied different editing styles. Some I edited like I did with the above examples and the final image, I opened the raw file in PhotoLab and then transferred the result to Photoshop. From Photoshop I used Luminar as a filter to replace the sky. This enabled me to apply and combine the unique strengths of each editor in one editing session.

Olympus XZ-1 - raw file edited in PhotoLab 3

Below you see the different image editors I used and the order in which I spent time with each:-

1. Photoshop CC (My main creative and complete image editor plus raw converter)
2. DxO PhotoLab 3 (Probably the best raw editor, especially for Olympus)
3. Olympus WorkSpace (Excellent raw and basic jpeg editor, free for Olympus owners)
4. Luminar 4 (The AI functions are truly amazing plus layers make it a more complete editor)

I also use Aurora and DxO FilmPack 5. Years back I started with Adobe Photoshop Elements and through the years I kept an updated copy of Elements. If Adobe added curves to Elements, I would cancel my subscription and only use Elements.

Olympus XZ-1 - raw file edited in WorkSpace

When you click on the above image it will open in the web viewer. Scrolling through the different images you will see the image cropping and keystone results are different for each editor. No real reason other than I should have done a little more effort with each.

My typical raw file editing sequence looks something like this:-

1. In some cases, I open and edit in WorkSpace, then export to PS
2. I edit in DXO PhotoLab 3 and export to PS for difficult scenes with noise 
3. In most cases, I start with the raw file in PS and also complete it in PS

I prefer to have Luminar 4 and FilmPack 5 as Photoshop filters. I seldom work with Luminar 4 in standalone mode. The reason is the included image organizer. This is also the reason I do not use Lightroom... It would be so much better if Luminar and Adobe gave us the option to stop/cancel the organizer. I have a great system that works well for me and never saw the benefits of changing.

XZ-1 - edited in PhotoLab, Photoshop & Luminar 4

Different editing styles will apply to different applications. When editing for prints I am much more conservative and I will focus on colors and details aimed at printing. Editing for the web is different and more fun or experimental.

Taken with the Olympus EM5 with 14-150mm lens - ISO200, f9, 1/400 (Edited and prepared in Photoshop)

Photoshop is by far the best tool to prepare and edit panoramas. The above image consisted of 6 raw files. Photoshop compiled the final panorama in raw and I was able to do my normal raw routine with Photoshop. Interesting about Photoshop is the Content-Aware tool and how it fills in the edges in the final panorama.

The above image was edited in Luminar as a Photoshop filter, changed the sky, and changed various AI settings

The above panorama and the next 3 images were all taken in Miami. Using Luminar, I replaced the sky in the panorama. The sky replacement was not perfect because the replacement sky was sized for a single image and not a 6 part panorama. The raw post-processing with the next 3 images started in PhotoLab 3 and then exported to PS. From PS I used Luminar 4 as a filter to edit my special effects.

Olympus EM5 w 14-50mm, ISO200, f7.2, 1/640 (PhotoLab 3 plus Photoshop plus Luminar - no sky replacement)

Olympus EM5 w 14-150mm, ISO200, f6.3, 1/800 (PhotoLab 3 plus Photoshop plus Luminar - no sky replacement)

Taken with the EM5, raw file edited - I let you guess what was done with this image...

The next two images were taken in Germany in a lovely village close to Frankfurt. You can literally spend weeks in this village and create many masterpieces...

Olympus EM5 with 14mm f2.5 - ISO800, f3.5, 1/60 (Raw edited in PhotoLab 3 and completed in Photoshop)

The same image was edited in Luminar - sky replacement, added glow, and a few other AI adjustments

The next two images were taken in 2007 when I visited Nürnberg. The images were taken with the G7 and the E410. The E410 was in raw format and the G7 was in jpeg format. When comparing these results with those I edited in 2007, the difference is day and night. One can literally spend hours going back a few years and re-process raw files...

Olympus E410 with 14-42mm Kit Lens, ISO100 - Edited with PhotoLab 3 and Photoshop

Canon Powershot G7 - ISO80, f4.0, 1/500 - Edited with PhotoLab 3, Photoshop, and Luminar 4

The time I spent editing the different images in this article was less than 5 minutes each. Normally I spend more time per image. The fun factor of working with these different editors is huge. One of my next projects will be to take more exciting skies for Luminar 4. This is probably the most fun aspect of Luminar 4.

Do you need to have all these different editing tools? Any of the editors discussed in this article is great and more than enough. If I had to recommend an editor or filter option, my choice would be Luminar 4. WorkSpace combined with Luminar 4 is more than enough and really powerful.

Olympus EM5 with 12mm f2.0 - ISO200, f9.5, 1/500 - (Raw file edited in PhotoLab 3)

Edited in PhotoLab 3, then transferred to Photoshop and sky replacement in Luminar 4

When you study the above image you will see I replaced the sky. Can you see the mistake? This is an important question because the final result should always look realistic... See my Instagram account for more examples. (TIP:- look at the sun)

The images below were all taken in different locations like South Africa, Switzerland, and Sardinian. I used different editing combinations with different editors...

Panasonic LX100 - ISO640, f5.6, 1/60 - Raw file edited with PhotoLab 3

Olympus EM5 II with 14-150mm MKII - f5.6, 1/640 - Raw file edited with PhotoLab 3

Olympus EM5 II with 12-50mm - ISO200, f5, 1/200 - Raw edited with Photoshop and refined in Luminar 4

Olympus EM5 II with 17mm f1.8 - ISO200, f4.5, 1/1000 (ETTR +0.7EV) - Raw edited with PS and Luminar 4

Oly E-620 with 18-180mm - ISO100, f11, 1/100 - Raw edited with PS, then edited in Luminar 4 (no sky replacement)

Auto-Focus Techniques and Focussing Points

Last Updated:- 15th December 2021

Introduction

In this short article, we will study the image with different focus points, focal lengths, and apertures. How does the focus point influence the look of the image and what happens if we change the aperture, focus point, or the size of the sensor?

For example, if you are looking for a new lens and the salesman mentions Depth Of Field or Hyperfocal Length, are you OK with these terms? In this short article, we will also look at how to select a new lens and why it's a good idea to select the right lens for your application.

Let's take a quick look at the definition of Depth-Of-Field (DOF) so that we are all on the same page. See the Wikipedia definition below:

For most cameras, depth of field (DOF) is the distance 

between the nearest and the farthest objects that 

are acceptably sharp in an image.

Why would photographers need a background blur or a nice bokeh? Why would they isolate their subjects from the background? What is the so-called cinematic look? How do videographers impact the use of depth of field or what do they want from different focusing techniques?

Photographers progressively neglected the importance of giving marketing feedback over the past 10 years. Computational features became increasingly more appealing to photographers each year, and in the process, photographers also started questioning traditional photography techniques. 

Mirrorless cameras now have built-in lens corrections and mobile phones made it possible for anyone to isolate subjects with a simple App. Do we still need to consider old-school photography techniques or should we only rely on a new application or new digital camera features?

Canon 650D with 15-85mm - f9, 1/125, ISO200 (Used Kodak Porta film simulation with DXO FilmPack 5)

Let's ignore AI for a moment, mobile phones, and things like sensor size, dynamic range, and Auto Focus (Contrast/Phase Detect). Step back 50 years and let's look at photographers from that era. I bet they will challenge us with questions like:-

• What criteria will you use when you select and purchase your next lens?
• Hyperfocal distance, Depth of Field, acceptable sharpness, circles of confusion
• Focus twice the distance to the nearest subject or focus one third into the scene
• Lens design, number of lens elements, lens groups, and how it impacts the lens?
• Testing your lenses, how to determine your lens sweet spot and diffraction point?
• Video recording introduced new rules with new lens variables, or are they new?
• Start using full Manual Exposure or continue using Auto Mode in A or S-Mode.
• Did you ask yourself, why the Olympus wide-angle 12mm lens uses f2?
• What about the backlighting or from the side, how does it impact your image
• How about the right lens, and focal length, and using infinity FL on your lens

Those, not 100% familiar with Depth of Field (DOF), HyperFocal distance, Circles of Confusion, or the infinity method, please have a quick look at the articles below:

Link 1:- A great article about sharpness, lens sweet spot, and the App we will discuss...
Link 2:- A great article about focusing techniques, all you need to know about focus...
Link 3:- A quick and simple technique to determine Hyper Focal Distance... great article
Link 4:- An article discussing how to use Hyperfocal distance for landscape photography
Link 5:- The App (OptimumCS-Pro) we will be discussing in this article... pls study
Link 6:- One final idea and a great practical example using the CS Pro App... a great read

Link 7:- Great presentation on infinity focusing techniques at Photography on Line...

Olympus EM1 with 60mm f2.8 Macro Lens - f7.1, 1/125, ISO100 - (Fuji Velvia film simulation with DXO FilmPack 5)

Here is a short summary of the key points in the above articles:

• Top lens sharpness (sweet spot) is typically +2 stops above the widest aperture
• Lens sharpness is determined by the aperture de-focus blur or its diffraction blur
• A long focal length offers a better illusion compression than a wide-angle lens
• Wide-angle lenses are more effective when used with large depth-of-field applications
• Large sensors need a smaller aperture for the equivalent DOF as smaller sensors

Different focusing features and techniques with MF and AF:

• Use full Auto Mode, AF (SAF or CAF) when doing street or landscape photography
• Selecting the focus point at double the distance from the closest "sharp" subject
• Third focussing rule, for max DOF, select a point one-third into the scene and focus
• Using the camera preview button, available on most OMD cameras - see Link 3
• Manual Focus - various MF assist features like Pre-MF, magnify, and peaking
• Selecting the right lens and infinity focusing technique to ensure an infinite DOF

The OptimumCS-Pro and Simple DoF Applications

A quick look at the OptimumCS-Pro App. I trust you studied the information in the above articles and are familiar with the CS Pro App. Did you install the above Apps on your mobile phone?

When we photograph at a too-wide aperture, we could lose image resolution because of defocusing (the blurring of objects in the front and back of the focus point); and vice versa with a too-narrow aperture, we could lose sharpness due to diffraction. So we always need to think about the optimum aperture setting and focusing distance. The CS-Pro application can help us with that.

How does this app work? The app looks at sensor size, focal length, and distance from the closest point to the furthest point that needs to be in focus. It then calculates the aperture and the focus point at double the distance from the closest focus point.

The Simple DoF App is free and easy to use. It calculates the hyper-focal distance for each lens, focal length, distance, and aperture. For those new to the App, it's important to practice first, before using it on critical projects. Having had the app on my phone for several months, I do use it from time to time but I found it's more valuable for learning purposes than my day-to-day photography.

Let's try the App and see what we learn about the Olympus 17mm f1,8 and the 12mm f2,0 fixed focal length lenses. Which apertures and what focus distance will work best to achieve an acceptable depth of field? I noticed that the lens data you will use with the App is those displayed on the lens and not the full-frame equivalent.

There are basically 4 ways to select a focus point:

1. Using full Auto (A-Mode) and focussing on the far distance using f5,6 to f8.0
2. Use mobile phone apps like simple DOF and CS Pro app, to calculate camera settings
3. Select the closest focus point in the scene and set the focus point at double that distance 
4. Select an appropriate aperture and then use the rule of 3rds to determine the focus point

Pen F w Lumix 14-140mm - ISO200, f5,6 1/200

1. Using full auto A-Mode, AF, and f5,6 to f8

To use this method it is important to have a good understanding of what lens to select for every scene or photo application. The concept is to try and test your lenses. You should know the best aperture (sweet spot) for each of your lenses by experimenting with different apertures for street, landscape, product, and portrait applications. You will find they become second nature if you apply these basics. Let's have a quick look at the following lenses:

1. Olympus 17mm f1,8

For example, we know when doing street photography in crowded areas, the camera will select an AF point reasonably close to the camera. Let's see if that will support a preferred DOF from 1,5m to 30m. Using the Simple DOF and the OptimumCS-Pro applications, we see when selecting an aperture from f6,3 to f7,1 and a focal distance starting from 2,7m to 4m, the DOF will be from 2m to infinity.

Testing the 17mm f1,8 you will find its sharpest aperture is between f4 and f7,1. With a little practice, you will see that you can safely dial in an aperture of f7,1 for both street and landscape photography. For portraits, you will typically work with apertures ranging from f1,8 to f4.

Olympus 17mm f1,8 best DOF settings

2. Olympus 12mm f2,0

Peter Forsgård proposed using a wide-angle lens with apertures f5,6 to f8 for one month. Using the above applications, we see the advantage of WA lenses is the closer in-focus distance to the camera, and the wide-angle lens DOF characteristics tend to benefit a wider range of photography applications.

Studying the above examples we see the 17mm f1,8 hyper-focal distance was 1,4m. The CS-Pro App proposed a focal length of 4m. This is important when you need the foreground sharp. The general habit of focussing on a far distant point is therefore not ideal.

Repeating the above exercise with lenses like the Olympus 12mm, 17mm, and 25mm, you will find they are all great for street or landscape photography. The 45mm, 60mm, and 75mm lenses lean more towards portrait or product photography. Applying the same process you will see the 9-18mm f4 or the 12-50mm kit lenses are great for a wide range of applications.

To set up the camera so you can safely focus at any point, then lift your camera, reframe the image, and take the shot, see this article. Look for - "Customizing the camera AEL and AFL"

2. Hyperfocal Distance Method

(Using only the Simple DOF App)

Looking at a hyperfocal distance I wanted to see the results when using the settings suggested by the App. I also selected to use a fixed MF distance. See the calculated results from the app below. See if you get the same results I did.

Olympus MFT lens 12mm f2,0

- Using f7,1 everything from 1.2m to infinity will be in focus
- Set the camera FL to 2m (MF or SAF)
- Hyperfocal distance is 1.4m

Olympus MFT lens 17mm f1,8

- Using f8 everything from 1.7m to infinity will be in focus
- Set the camera FL to 3m (MF or SAF)
- Hyperfocal distance is 2.4m

Sony A7 III lens 34mm f2,8

- Using f8 everything from 2.5m to infinity will be in focus
- Set the camera FL to 5m (MF or AFS)
- Hyperfocal distance is 4.9m

Pen F w Lumix 14-140mm - ISO200 f5,6 1/400

3. Using the OptimumCS-Pro App

With this example, I again selected MF to test what the results would look like when using the settings suggested by the CS-Pro app. See the results below. Again see if you get the same results I did.

Olympus MFT lens 12mm f2,0

- Using f7,1 everything from 1m to infinity will be in focus
- Set Focal Length to 2m (MF or SAF)

Olympus MFT lens 17mm f1,8

- Using f7,1 everything from 2m to infinity will be in focus
- Set Focal Length to 4m (MF or SAF)

Sony A7 III lens 34mm f2,8

- Using f13 everything from 2.5m to infinity will be in focus
- Set Focal Length to 5m (MF or SAF)

What's really interesting about using this method is finding the right focus point. I ended up using another app on my phone that only measures distance. When the app recommended a focus point of 2 meters, I used the other app to measure that distance so I could mark a focus point. I would then manually focus on that point.

Another interesting thing I noticed was the camera reacts differently in Manual Mode and Auto Exposure. The camera seems to "automatically" optimize the DOF when in Auto Mode. When in Manual Mode this was not the case. This happened with both the A7 III and the EM1 II.

4. Using the thirds and doubling subject distance, focussing methods

Considering what we learned, I see this final method as a practical example as it summarizes what experienced photographers have been doing for years.

Setting up a home studio

Let's look at how to set up a home studio for a new YouTube channel. We will look at the lens and the position of the camera to the target. What focusing method will you use?

We often see camera reviewers walking around in a video to test and demonstrate the camera's CAF abilities. Do we really need this kind of CAF capability when setting up a simple home studio? Let's assume your home study consists of a desk, a chair, and something like a green backdrop. Considering what we discussed, we can now calculate the preferred aperture and focusing distances. This enables us to use older cameras like the Panasonic GH4, and the EM10 II with MF, and save money.

You can select any focal length ranging from 12mm to 25mm. I used the 17mm f1,8 and the Olympus 25mm f1,8 for this example.

• Olympus 17mm f1,8 is camera A
• Olympus 25mm f1,8 is camera B and C (One could also a 45mm f1,8 for C)

I like to have a DOF from the center of the table to +2m behind the chair. See the CS Pro results below.

With a single camera set-up, you will select either camera A fitted with the 17mm lens or camera B with the 25mm lens. The key is the lens FOV (Field of View). If you prefer an upper body with a face view, the 25mm will work well, and if you prefer to have part of the desk included you will select the 17mm. This example is not an exact design, you still need to calculate the details. Camera C is meant for product views, that is if you like to have detailed product views in your presentation video.

Selecting an aperture and focus point for landscape images

One can use any application to calculate the best focal distance for a landscape. As said, it is key you practice with your camera. The practical experience provides a good feel for what works best for you. My personal lens preference for landscape photography is 9mm to 25mm. I test each of my lenses and then record the results in my aperture "sweet spot" notebook. My preferred landscape apertures range from f5,6 to f7,1, and in some cases, I will go up to f8.

The key is not to focus on the far distance but to select the "best" focus point. I prefer to use the rule of thirds to determine my focus point. I will then use SAF in Mode 2. This is similar to the back focus technique and enables me to select a focus point, move the camera, reframe, and take the image. See this article for more on this focusing technique.

The third method works on the principle that the distance from your camera to the focal point should be a third distance into the scene. That means everything twice that distance behind the focal point will be in focus. The closest in-focus point will depend on the lens aperture and the lens FL. This is the reason we prefer to focus on the first thirds when doing landscape photography. Again, you need to practice this method and experiment until you are comfortable with the results and your camera.

One more focusing method - Focus Stacking

In more serious cases photographers prefer to use focus stacking. Some Olympus cameras do this all automatically inside the camera. Others will take the stacked images and as explained in this video, create the final image in Photoshop. When watching the video, think of where you will select the different focal points for each stacked image. In other words, break each stacked scene up into thirds and select the focal point on the first third. (What camera did the presenter use, a crop sensor, or a FF camera?)

My final thoughts

Preparing for this article I spent a lot of time and I took many images while testing the two Apps. I was trying different focussing techniques like MF, SAF, and CAF. I was looking at what works best, a single AF point, 9 group AF points, and more. Each time I came back to the single AF point placed in the center of the camera screen. I also preferred MF or SAF depending on the situation.

I often used my EM1 II together with my A7 III. Interestingly, the A7 III images are more detailed than the EM1 II and one would expect that (24MP versus 20MP). That said, the closer I get to my camera/lens combination "perfect" settings, the smaller these differences are. Practicing with your camera and finding those sweet spots and best settings will result in significant image quality improvements.

The worst thing you can do is buy a lens, have no sweet spot or preferred aperture strategy, focus in the far distance, and expect great results...

Editing images with your Olympus Camera

Last Update: 27 April 2020

Experienced photographers rely on their equipment and experience when preparing for that winning image. Most photographers are familiar with image editing with Lightroom or Photoshop. The question is, how does one personalize your images in the camera?

Olympus Pen F with Lumix 14-140mm f3,5-5,6 @ ISO200, f7,1, and 1/400 shutter speed (Exposed for optimum Dynamic Range)

Most say, everything starts with good image quality, that is the reason why we purchase expensive camera gear. To record great image quality, we know we need to consider the following:-

• Make sure you selected optimum Exposure (Aperture and shutter speed + ETTR)
• Set the camera White Balance - This will improve the IMG color accuracy and IQ
• ISO impacts dynamic range and image noise, keep the ISO as low as possible

See these articles for information on how to improve your image quality

• My articles on the Olympus Creative Color - Series
• How to Improve image quality and reduce noise

This article applies to the following Olympus cameras:

• All Olympus OMD bodies
• Olympus Pen cameras, EPL5/6/7/8/9/10 plus the Pen F

This article has 3 parts:

• Discuss general but important camera settings and techniques
• How to prepare and edit raw or jpeg files in your camera
• How to personalize your images with the Olympus OI Share App

General camera settings

The settings I discuss in this section will improve your general experience with your camera. If you are familiar with these settings, please scroll to the next section.

I used my Pen F and the EM5 II to prepare the different images and illustrations for this article. I will not discuss all the camera settings available with your camera, please refer to your User Manual.

Image Quality

Shooting Menu 1:- Always select the RAW+JPEG option. This allows you to save your raw files for future use. Raw files do not change when editing your images in the camera. All edited images are saved as JPEG files in the camera. The RAW+JPEG option enables photographers.

Use your camera SCP as a window into which image settings are available with each Picture Mode. For example, use the camera SCP to check the jpeg file quality. You want your jpeg files set to LSF (Large Super Fine) to have more image data. If you need web-ready files, use smaller file sizes like Medium or Small. No matter what file size you select, always use SF (Super Fine). To change the image quality, go to the Custom Menu "G", and select "IQ Set". Follow the steps below:-

Image Aspect Ratio

Image aspect ratios are a personal choice and part of creating a unique personal style. The Micro Four Thirds sensor has a native ratio of 4:3. Raw files have a ratio of 4:3 with the full 16 or 20MP capacity. Photographers are generally comfortable using image ratios of 3:2 because that is the native ratio for APC and full-frame sensors. The image at the top of this article has a 4:3 ratio. This ratio is unique and a first step in differentiating yourself...

Customizing AFL and AEL

Mode 2 is a great choice when using SAF (Single Auto Focus). Think of a portrait photo with the model not in the center of the frame. Mode 2 enables you to point the camera to the subject, focus, and keep the shutter halfway while reframing and taking the image. The camera will measure the exposure when you press the shutter all the way.

"S-AF AEL/AFL" - Mode 2 is therefore good for static scenes. It's perfect for photographers using hyper-focal distances when doing street or landscape photography. Mode 2 is also great for weddings or portrait photography.

Mode 1 (camera default) is general and suitable for both moving and static subjects. When selecting Mode 1 you will not focus and reframe like you did with Mode 2. You will basically focus and take the image in one movement. The reason is Mode 1 measures and locks both AE and AF when you take the image.

Configure your camera for ETTR

Those not familiar with ETTR (Exposing to the Right), see this article. My preferred camera settings for ETTR are the following:-

• I always set my OMD back dial for exposure compensation. (Not the Pen F)
• I use the following exposure Info settings, Highlights, Shadows, and Histogram
• Camera Histogram set the over/under-exposure warnings limits to 254 and one
• Set the exposure (EV) steps to 1/3 EV steps and the ISO (Auto) steps to 1/3 EV
• Set Noise Reduction to Auto
• Noise Filter to "Low" (You can always change this when editing the raw file)
• ISO high limit to 1000 and the low limit to 200 (Rely on IBIS and not high ISO's)
• Depending on the scene, use full ESP or center-weighted exposure metering

Why do we use ETTR? The main reasons for using ETTR are:

• Recording more tonal data (image data)
• Improve image quality
• Reduce shadow noise

See this interesting article (7 Tips for getting better results with your Olympus Camera)

Olympus has an interesting function, Exposure Shift. It's important you first read the user manual. Using the exposure shift function, dial in an auto-exposure compensation of +3/6 (+.05EV).

One of the challenges in applying ETTR manually is the photographer needs a good understanding of exposure and the role of ISO. When using the Exposure Shift function it all is a little easier. My Pen F reacts a little differently than my EM5 II. You need to practice using this technique.

Select your preference AF configuration

For accurate focusing, select the center group or the single frame AF option. Olympus cameras have two single AF frame options. The small AF frame (image on the right) is more accurate and perfect for macro photography. Using all the focus points is not always the most effective way to apply your camera autofocus. Selecting the single AF frame option will offer several advantages:

• The center AF point is almost typically a cross-type focus point
• It is fast and the camera will focus accurately in various situations
• It complements the AF Mode 2 (AEL and AFL) we discussed above
• The photographer is in charge and not some eye-tracking or AI protocol
• This is a great strategy for repeatedly having the same result

Personalizing your images in the camera

There are basically three ways to create our own personalized images in the camera:-

1. Do not be afraid to select and experiment with the "standard" Picture Modes
2. Experiment with the Creative Color functions like Curves and the Color Creator
3. Create your own custom profiles or presets (Camera, WorkSpace, and OI Share)

Using Olympus picture modes

In my Creative Color series, I said it's important to make small adjustments when changing contrast, saturation, or sharpness. Apply one click at a time and test the effect for a few days until you find a combination that works well for you. I used the following Pen F settings for all the images below:-

• Picture Mode (Vivid)
• Contrast (+1)
• Saturation (-1)
• Graduation (See image notes)
• Curves

I then used different tonal (curve) settings on the image in the middle and the image on the right. I used the following settings for the image in the middle:-

• Shadows (-2)
• Mid tones (-3)
• Highlights (+1)
• Graduation (Normal)

With the image on the right, I activated Graduation which lifts the shadows and balances highlights and mid-tones. Besides, I used the following tonal settings:-

• Shadows (-4)
• Mid Tones (-3)
• Highlights (-4)
• Graduation (Auto)

The tonal (curve) function is great for adding that unique image look or when "pulling back" the excess brightness you get from ETTR. Here are a few curve adjustments (profiles) you can use and practice with:

• Add contrast - Highlights (+1) and Shadows (-1) - for more contrast, Shadows (-2)
• ETTR images - Pull back the Mid Tones while checking the histogram
• Misty look - Highlights (-2), Mid Tones (+2), Shadows (+3), and Contrast (-2)
• Experiment with the camera curves function, it's a powerful creative tool...

Olympus creative color functions

With the OMD EM5 II Olympus took the bold step and introduced the Color Creator. The Color Creator introduced Olympus owners to the artist's Color Wheel and color concepts like opposite or complementary colors. The Pen F took this to the next level by introducing the Color Profile and the MonoChrome Profile tools. The Pen F inspired me to write a 6 Part Creative Color series. 

You will find Part 6 here.

Olympus Scene Modes and Art Filters offer creative photographers more creative options. The key is to practice using SCP. The SCP will show you when curves are available and when not. Curves are available with ART filters and not with SCN modes. The steps below demonstrate how to activate the SCP for the different camera Modes.

Many Olympus owners do not know it's possible to fine-tune ART filters with curves. You can now select any ART filter and fine-tune that ART filter to create the image look you prefer. See the example below or at the bottom of this article:-

Another option I discovered with B/W ART filters, is the option to apply color filters and/or change monochrome base colors. See the SCP or ART filter menus below.

These color options are available with the:

• Dramatic Tone II
• Grainy Film 1
• Grainy Film II

Another option is Photo Story. Photo Story has different in-camera image templates. Each template has different options to finish the final Photo Story look and feel. This is a great way of creating your own unique Instagram presentation...

Photo Story Template

Instagram images have an image ratio of 4:5 or 8:5. The 2nd ratio is more complex because it's best done in Photoshop with the slice tool. You can prepare your 4:5 ratio in the camera or with the OI Share app. Before uploading your image to Instagram resize the image vertical to 1350. See the example below...

Editing your raw files in the camera

I never used this function. I was pleasantly surprised to see just how much one can do with the camera. With your Olympus camera, you can edit raw files and JPEG files separately. The raw editor is more flexible and powerful than the jpeg editor.

Follow the steps below to open the camera raw editor:-

Step 1 - From the "Playback" menu select "Edit"
Step 2 - Select "Sel. Image"
Step 3 - Scroll through your images until you find the image you like to edit, press "OK"
Step 4 - Select "RAW Data Edit"
Step 5 - Next you will select how you will edit your raw file, see the descriptions below

Option 1 - "Current"

The camera will take the current camera configuration and apply that to the raw file. You need to prepare any special settings before opening the editor.

Option 2&3 - "Custom" 1&2

Here you have two options:-

Option 1

Select Custom 1 or Custom 2 and press OK. The camera will use the previously used Custom adjustments. Think of Custom 1 or 2 as "editing" profiles.

Option 2

Select Custom 1 or Custom 2 and press the right arrow. Next, you will see the raw editor. See the images below.

Scroll through the different raw settings to edit/adjust your camera raw file. The settings you use will become part of the Custom "profile". Next time you select the Custom option and press "OK", these settings will be applied to your raw file.

When done press "OK" and then "Yes". The edited raw file is now saved onto the memory card. Next press "No" and you will be able to select the next image...

I did not discuss all the different editing functions separately, we will do that in the next article. You could also try the jpeg editor. You will see the raw editor has more editing functions.

Olympus OI Share and OI Track

Most Olympus cameras have a Wi-Fi function and some of the later models have Bluetooth. This makes it possible for you to track your location, control your camera, upload images, and edit images with your mobile phone. This is great news for those traveling.

See the Olympus OI Share Page
See the Olympus OI Track Page

How-to connect to these applications? I first connected my OI Share app with my camera (EM5 II) and next, I connected the OI Track app. It's easy to make the connection, press the WiFi logo on the back of your camera screen, and follow the steps below...

Now you are ready to start using your Olympus App with your camera. See the images below showing some of the editing screens available with the OI Share Application.

The image on the left is the application "Control Center" from where you have access to all the App settings and functions. In my follow-up articles, I will discuss more.

The interesting part is, that as you get used to working with WorkSpace, the different camera functions, and the mobile phone application, you will find all use the same look and feel. You basically familiarize yourself with one set of tools with which you can do most of your cataloging, image editing, editing on the go, and image sharing...