Photowalk and Advanced Exposure Techniques

Last Update: 27th May 2024

My wife and I were driving past an old town of Rapperswil at the far end of Lake Zürich. Returning from our appointment, we decided to stop at Rapperswil and spend an hour or two in this lovely old town. My wife with her EM10 III, and I with my Pen F and the 12-50mm f3.5 - 6.3 EZ lens.

I also wanted to try my Gossen light meter. The idea was to use the Gossen for more demanding cases like exposure techniques like ETTR for street/city photography. (Walimex is a Gossen)

Olympus EM1 II w 30mm Macro, 2x FL600, mini studio, RC Mode.

Regular visitors to my blog know I've been on a journey studying the camera's image sensor, types of image sensors, the size and capture theory, and different exposure and focusing techniques.

While searching for information for my Gossen, one thing led to another, and I came across the Sekonic YouTube presenter, Joe Brady. In his videos, Joe demonstrated the benefits of using external light meters with modern cameras. Joe convinced me to keep the Gossen in my exposure toolbox. The Gossen was tucked away in my photography "to-do" list until I saw Joe's videos.

It's now 3 years since I started studying image sensors. In time, I read different articles on DPReview and participated in heated forum discussions. I always compared the information I received to theoretical and technical articles published by engineering schools, image sensor manufacturers, the European Machine and Vision Association, and other enthusiast websites. 

As in most cases, finding that one thing that matters needs unpacking the fluff and talking. Without getting too much into the sensor size debate, those who did change from one format to another know it takes way more than the size of the sensor or pixel area. The 3 factors we should consider are buying/selling costs, the size and weight of camera equipment, functionality, and lens options.

Focussing on one thing, I discovered the key to optimum image quality is using the image sensor at its optimum SNR and saturation. (Figure 1) It became clear that the digital camera is not a digital paintbrush. The ideal SNR is specific and available in a small operating window. This motivated me to shift the creative part of my digital photography to the post-processing phase in Workspace.

The image recording phase is simply a data-collecting phase and nothing more. The goal is to select the "best" exposure mix to push the sensor to its ideal performance window. This "ideal" performance window happens when the sensor reaches an optimum SNR and Saturation. (See Figure 1) The sensor records more tonal data with the lowest visible noise when saturated.

Figure 1.

It took my wife and me 2 hours to complete our photo walk in Rapperswil. I selected an ISO of 200. The cloudy conditions would benefit from the higher DR at ISO200. I started with an aperture of f5.6 and aperture mode. That meant I had to carefully select my focus point and monitor the histogram when using ETTR or upping the exposure. This process of monitoring and adjusting the exposure is quick and takes seconds. The photographer's experience in advanced exposure techniques guides their decisions to select an ND or Polarizer filter, stacking or bracketing, or the camera's HDR function.

Olympus Pen F with 12-50mm ISO200, f5, 1/500 - Raw file converted in Photoshop (only basic settings).

I adjusted the exposure of the above scene with the Gossen. Study the histogram. The Gossen's exposure reading was the equivalent of the camera exposure at +0.3 EV. The dynamic range of the scene was influenced by the clouds. For example, one has more or fewer clouds in the exposure frame by pointing the camera up or down. With the camera's exposure reading pointed toward the clouds, the street-level exposure and SNR decrease, and the visible shadow noise increases. 

Not that shadows generate image noise. Less reflected light on the sensor means a smaller SNR, less tonal data, and more visible noise. Interestingly, the Gossen exposure meter is less affected by clouds because its FOV is 180 degrees. The camera's FOV is linked to the focal length of the lens...

This is the same image edited in Luminar 4 - One can see how the camera handled the DR well.

The above image is an edited version of the RAW file. While editing the RAW file in Photoshop, I knew the RAW file had enough tonal data, which enabled me to push the RAW file a little more. 

I upped the camera's exposure with the aperture "gain" option (image below). The histogram shifted to the right, and the street-level image brightness improved with the higher exposure level. My final exposure benefited from an ETTR gain of +1EV. Moving the histogram to the right means the darker street level benefits from more tonal data and less noise. An increase in tonal data benefits the complete tonal range. Exposure techniques like HDR increase the tonal data even more. I also used the camera's over- and underexpose indicators to monitor highlight and shadow clipping. The Olympus histogram is flexible enough to help us find the best possible exposure mix with ETTR. 

I rarely go for clipping-free exposures. The brighter clouds did clip a little in the above example. I was OK with that because most people wouldn't recognize any clipping. I apply the same rule for darker shadow areas. I learned it's better to clip (turn black) some darker areas and prevent non-critical areas from showing noise. This is similar to what Panasonic does for filming. For example, Panasonic allows us to work with a smaller tonal range of 15 to 256. Study the OOC JPEG below. 

This is what the camera's JPEG looks like when one applies an ETTR of +1EV.

The image below is the edited Raw conversion of the above JPEG. I pushed the sensor to its optimum saturation and SNR with my exposure mix. This allowed me to "push" the conversion of my raw file a little more. Study my articles about Workspace and the Enhanced Raw Format for more.

Those preferring out-of-camera "ready" JPEGS should read the following. The secret is to treat your Raw and JPEG files differently. The RAW file can be pushed to have more tonal data with less visible noise and can be re-adjusted to mimic the scene in post-editing. Jpegs are different and benefit from more accurate exposures. For example, we can tweak the gamma curve of Olympus cameras. This is done with exposure compensation and the Gradation and highlights/shadows functions.

The following settings allow us to create JPEG profiles in the cameras. For example, use the mid-tone slider to correct ETTR adjustments and the i-Enhance Picture Mode to activate the Olympus image quality features. The gradation function improves shadow details and limits clipping, and the highlight and shadow sliders are used to add contrast or manage the shadows and highlights.

Olympus Pen F with 12-50mm lens - ISO200, f5.7, 1/250 (+1EV ETTR) - Raw file converted and edited in PS and Luminar 4.

Final thoughts on saturating the image sensor and ETTR

Study this article to learn more about ETTR or what it means to "flood" the sensor. Study this article for more on how to read the DxOMark image quality database, and read this article discussing the 4 things that will improve your image quality. The image creation process for the above image starts by reviewing any depth-of-field (DOF) or movement requirements linked to the aperture and shutter mix. The next step is to optimize the sensor. I used the following camera settings for the above image:

• ISO200 (Manual setting - see intro text)
• Shutter speed of 1/400 (Aperture-Mode - shutter speed was selected by the camera)
• An aperture of f5.6 (The photographer's choice in Aperture Mode - f5.6 creates a large DOF)
• I used my Gossen exposure meter reading with an ETTR of +0.5 EV to up the SNR.
• The histogram confirmed that I could shift the histogram to the right by +0.5 EV.
• I used the histograms under/overexposure warnings to find the final exposure mix.

The final step focuses on the reflected light reaching the image sensor. The aim is to expose the sensor optimally with techniques like ETTR or stacking. Which of the above exposure settings would you change if you had to increase the shutter speed? I manually selected ISO200. We also know that the ISO does not control the reflected light to the sensor like the aperture/shutter mix. 

The target is exposure and not DOF when using the aperture gain effect. That means doubling the reflected light to the sensor for every 1EV aperture increase. This exposes (floods) the sensor with information. The question is, how does this affect the DOF? Something that should be talked about more is the 2-stop DOF (Depth-of-Field) advantage of M43 cameras.

This M43 (DOF) advantage varies from application to application, like macro, landscapes, or city scenes. Always experiment and use your photography experience to select the best exposure mix. Photographers migrating to M43 cameras tend to prefer higher apertures. For example, they will use f8 to f11 for landscapes, whereas f5.6 to f7.1 is enough for landscapes on M43 cameras.

Pen F with 12-50mm, ISO200, f5.1, 1/200 and +0.3EV (ETTR)

It was safe to add +0.5 EV reflected light to the sensor for the first image of Rapperswil. The brighter street level and 50% more reflected light onto the sensor didn't affect the original DOF much.

If you want to experience the full benefit of aperture gain and how it impacts sensor performance, apply this technique to older M43 or smaller sensor cameras like the Olympus X-Z2.

The takeaway is that the aperture changes the reflected light (gain) or DOF. Exposing to the right (ETTR) means more aperture gain, especially in poor light conditions with slower shutter speeds and higher ISOs. One needs as little as +0.5EV to improve the sensor's saturation. A full stop will seriously flood the sensor. More reflected light means a better SNR, more tonal data, and less Visible Noise.

It helps to practice with older 12 and 16MP mirrorless or compact cameras. The benefits are more visible with older image sensors, and it also helps to master the DOF versus gain principle. 

Do later 16MP and 20MP sensors also benefit from this technique? Absolutely, but the differences are less visible for newer versus older sensors. The camera's auto-exposure algorithm saturates the sensor more with newer Olympus cameras. See this article about Olympus' safety headroom.

Olympus Pen F with 12-50mm f3.5-6.3 EZ lens, ISO200, f5.0, 1/350, +0.3EV (ETTR) - Raw file converted in Photoshop.

ETTR summary plus a real example

Last Update: 24th May 2024.

Olympus EM1 II with Leica 25mm f1.4 lens - ISO6400 f7.1 1/13Sec with ETTR - Enhanced Raw file converted in WorkSpace and edited in Photoshop.

What is ETTR or Exposing to the Right?

ETTR means an optimum aperture, shutter speed, and luminance mix. The goal is to increase the sensor's SNR and saturation. The key is knowing that the ISO function does not control the light from the building to the sensor, whereas the shutter, aperture, and flash control how much reflected light is reaching the sensor. I also adjusted my flash to match the illumination and light reflecting from the inside of the building. A fully exposed sensor means less noise and increasing the camera's tonal data and image quality. This article discusses luminance, reflected light, and the types of light.

This article discusses 7 critical points photographers should know.

What is the role of the ISO function?

We manage 4 of the camera's exposure variables. These are the aperture, shutter speed, ISO, and reflected light. The ISO does not change the sensor's sensitivity. It amplifies the image signal and the noise coming from the sensor. See my other articles for more about the sensor's noise floor.

My flash illuminated the building and increased the reflected light, and the fixed ISO and my aperture and shutter speed settings controlled the light reaching the sensor. Study this article for more about the interaction between the ISO, aperture, shutter speed, and luminance. This article reviews the ISO as an image signal amplifier or brightness adjustment. I often use my ISO strategically.

The most critical aspect impacting image quality is understanding the ISO. 
Avoid Auto ISO settings and learn how to manually use the ISO.

What are the benefits of ETTR?

ETTR is not something we use daily. The most effective way to manage the sensor's performance is to master the roles of the aperture, shutter, and ISO. The average consumer camera records more tonal data (image quality) with a saturated sensor. Digital cameras typically double the tonal data for every +1 EV of ETTR. That means the histogram moves to the right, the sensor's saturation and SNR improve, and the camera records better image quality (tonal data).

The under-exposed version has approximately 75% less total data.

How does one apply ETTR?

I only use ETTR for the most challenging cases. An Exposure Shift of up to +1 EV is enough. I also prefer Aperture or Shutter Mode with a fixed ISO. For example, an ISO of 64 or 100 is perfectly OK in most daylight conditions. I also use my ISO function strategically because we know it adjusts image brightness and is part of the exposure formula. A fixed ISO lets us use exposure compensation for ETTR while monitoring the sensor's saturation and SNR levels with the histogram...

A copy of the Olympus EM1 II display when the camera selected the exposure.

Olympus cameras have a default safety Headroom to prevent the sensor from clipping. For example, the camera's exposure meter shows a correct exposure while the sensor is not saturated. It's possible to manage this safety headroom with ETTR. For example, one can increase the exposure by up to 2 EV with the blue sky as a background. Another scene might limit the possible ETTR compensation to 0.5 EV. The camera's exposure meter will show an overexposure reading with ETTR. We correct this in Workspace with the exposure compensation (ISO) function.

Study the image below. I used an ETTR of 1EV. There was enough available dynamic range to increase the exposure with another stop. This is how much the camera's exposure meter desaturated the sensor. The processed tonal data in the shadows suffer most in these conditions...

A copy of the Olympus EM1 II display with an ETTR of 1EV.

General comments

Photographers think that ETTR only works at the camera's base ISO. This is not 100% correct because digital cameras are designed to capture more tonal data with the histogram to the right, irrespective of the ISO value. The dynamic range does reduce a little at higher ISOs. Does this mean we shouldn't use ETTR at higher ISOs, or should we manage the situation? 

Tip:- The ISO effectively adjusts image brightness and not the exposure.

In terms of exposure, the following basics are critical:-

• The aperture and shutter are the only variables controlling the light to the sensor
• The ISO function only amplifies the image signal coming from the image sensor

Do this quick ETTR experiment:-

• Find a scene with deep shadows and not overly bright areas.
• Set the camera to A, S, or P Mode with Auto ISO and take an image.
• Use the above camera settings (fixed ISO) for a 2nd image in Manual Mode.
• Use your aperture or shutter speed to increase the exposure in 0.5 EV steps.
• The histogram shows what's happening on the sensor with a fixed ISO.
• Download the images to your PC and study the shadow areas for noise.

Conclusion

The camera's histogram tells us when the image sensor desaturates at base ISO or when the camera applied a safety exposure headroom. This "safety headroom" is one of the main reasons having visible shadow noise. Knowledge and experience taught me it's safe to overexpose Olympus cameras with up to 1EV (ETTR) and correct the exposure in Workspace. The secret is a fixed ISO and keeping an eye on the histogram for highlight clipping while applying ETTR (adjusting the aperture/shutter).

The most important aspect I learned from studying M43 sensors, testing Olympus cameras, and writing is, that image noise has become an effective counter-marketing strategy in favor of full-frame cameras. I recently tested the impact pixel area has on 15 cameras. The image quality differences, especially in the shadows, were surprisingly small. You will find the article here.

Do I often apply ETTR? I have several Olympus cameras in my collection and photograph almost each day with one of them. I regularly use these cameras while preparing articles and is confident the Olympus engineers selected well specified 16MP and 20MP sensors. This means these sensors perform well in a wide range of applications. I occasionally need to apply ETTR, but learned that my understanding of Olympus cameras is more valuable than focusing on noise and ETTR...

Sony A7 III with 50mm, f1.8 lens - ISO25600, f7.1, 1/30sec, and ETTR - The Raw file was edited in PhotoLab 3 plus PhotoLab 3 noise reduction.

Filmmaking with the EM5 II and WorkSpace

Last Update: 17 May 2020

Update - I am updating this article - 23rd July 2025

I always wonder what happened to those keen filmmakers of yesterday. Those spending hours filming family events, breaking waves, zoo animals and wildlife, and playful pets. This filming culture seemed to have vanished when those older VHS cassettes transformed into hybrid digital cameras.

It seems like most camera manufacturers underestimated the market potential and the enthusiasm amongst casual filmmakers? Instead, they decided to target "professional" filmmakers using dedicated filming equipment from RED, Canon, and Panasonic. It's fun to learn how Olympus targeted casual and family VHS filmmakers. Let's discuss how to apply our VHS know-how with Olympus cameras.

A basic documentary using simple movie-making techniques and three Olympus cameras.

This article takes a closer look at digital filmmaking, Olympus M43 cameras, and what VHS filmmakers need to get started. We will study camera settings and how to edit videos with Workspace. The aim is to support readers with the basics of filming and editing YouTube and Instagram videos.

Which Olympus camera and video accessories do I need?

Most of the older and more recent Olympus or OM System M43 cameras can be used for filming. Many Olympus compact cameras have interesting options for VHS filmmakers. This includes cameras like the original EM1, EM1 II, EM5 II/III, Pen F, E-P7, EM10 II/III/IV, and the EPL8/9. Older M43 cameras like the EM5, EM10, and the E-PL models are capable candidates for VHS filmmakers. Some of these older M43 cameras are growing in popularity for their unique image and film look properties.

Any of the following lenses are good enough for filming:

• Olympus 12-50mm EZ Kit Lens - great for filming; benefit is the motorized zoom
• Olympus 14-42mm EZ Kit Lens - Smaller zoom range but with motorized zoom
• Olympus 30mm or 60mm Macro lenses for close-ups or more detail views
• Olympus 14-42mm Kit Lens (not EZ). The 2nd & 3rd generation MSC types
• Olympus Pancake Lenses - any of the fixed f1,8 focal length lenses are perfect
• Olympus M43 40-150mm and the 14-150mm general or kit zoom lenses
• Olympus M.Zuiko 12-45mm f4 Pro and 40-150mm f4 Pro lenses
• I personally prefer to use Olympus lenses with my Olympus cameras
• Any of the Olympus standard M.Zuiko compact and Pro lenses

Depending on your personal progress, you could benefit from an ND filter to manage the 4th variable in the exposure mix. Study this article for more. Variable ND filters are often more practical than one or more fixed ND filters. Use lens adapters or lenses with the same filter diameter. The above list of M.Zuiko lenses has filter diameters ranging from 46 mm to 58 mm.

Smallrig flash mount filming handle with LED light and mic

What else could we need for filmmaking with Olympus M43 cameras? The following items are practical items, but not necessarily must-have items:

• Camera cage or camera handle that fits into the hot shoe (see above)
• A couple of inexpensive, small and portable (LED) light sources
• An external microphone, or a mobile phone as an external recording device
• An external monitor (not necessarliy the recorder type)
• A good understanding of digital photography is a great plus for filming
• Tripods and various types of reflectors

The SmallRig "Video" handle helps while filming from a lower position or when closer to the ground. It's also good for specific camera movements such as moving closer to or away from subjects. When used in combination with IBIS, video handles enable us to do complex camera movements.

Like photography, I was intimidated by the mainstream views of filmmaking. I decided to keep the original content in the next chapters and to add my current camera information and configuration as an alternative. Sometimes it's better to take a step back and start with a clean sheet of paper.

What camera settings are best for digital filming?

I used the EM5 II for the video clips, final video, and illustrations in this article. 

From the camera menu, select the gear menu "I. Movie." Study the examples below to adjust your camera.

This is what I recommended in the past:-

• Select shutter priority or S-Mode - 2nd image from the left
• Set the Noise Filter to "Standard" - 4th image from the left
• Other settings - copy all the above settings to your camera
• Select "Movie Specification Settings" - Press OK & copy the settings below
• Wind Noise Reduction - Deselect with no wind and the best option for wind

The preferred shutter speed while filming is double the frame rate. That's 1/50th for a frame rate of 25 fps. The next step is an ND filter because lower shutter speeds can be problematic in bright light. Fixed shutter speeds with ND filters work well in controlled conditions but are cumbersome in nature or city walks. This complexity is one of the reasons why I don't film more. The next question was, do I need all the things social media experts claim are crucial? For instance, I never needed to film in 4K, do color grading, use VLOG profiles, or collect all the video accessories social media experts promote on social media. What settings are best for family events or filming the dog playing?

These are the camera settings or configuration I prefer today:

• Select program or P-Mode. I selectively use an ND filter for more control.
• I exclusively use 50 fps (Europe) for smooth panning and slow speed options.
• I mainly film in 1080p (FHD) and Super Fine (SF) quality when possible.
• I use both IBIS only and IBIS plus digital IS while filming.
• The camera applies a cropped sensor section for the digital IS option.
• Cropping is not a problem because it's approximately 1.4X digital zoom.
• I prefer to tweak the camera's Picture modes or the Color Creator for filming.
• I use CAF (continuous AF) for video, and the shutter to start and stop recordings.
• The camera uses the center of the display to focus in movie mode (see the marking).
• That means you need to keep the subject in the center of the display.
• The focus point can be moved by pointing at subjects on the display.
• One can also apply face recognition. Study the manual and practice.

In terms of image or movie sharpness, as said filmmaking is not like photography. Don't think of image sharpness when selecting video options, think data. The compression ratio determines how much data the camera records. Keep in mind the camera records 25 or 30 fully sized jpeg images per second.

The data transferred to the SD card is huge. This is why videographers use high-speed SD cards. For example, select F (above image) if you work with an older PC. In terms of SD cards, see the EM5 II specifications listed in the user manual. As long as you stay with 1080p, the EM5 MKII specification is all you will need for all the above Olympus cameras.

The basic setting selected up to this point is to prepare the camera for video recording. With the next step, we will determine the day to day video settings. Select "Movie Mode" on the camera mode dial and press OK. Next, you will see the "Live Control" below. Use the up/down arrows to scroll up or down to the video recording format. To change the video recording format, press "Info", and with the left and right keys to select the different options displayed in the image below. 

The above video format is perfect for home video recording. This video format determines:-

• The actual file compression rate SF or F (data compression or volume data)
• Frame rate (typically 25p for Europe and 30p for the US or cinema is 24p)
• Clip Recording Time (If you new to video, start with clips, its easy and works well)
• Slow-speed and high-speed recording is great for recording emotion
• Check the video format: 1080p and MOV (this should be visible in the selection)

Your camera is now ready for video recording. Similar to the SCP screen, "Live Control" offers quick access to important video settings. With Live Control, you can adjust the frame rate, change the clip recording time, select the recording speed (standard, slow or fast speed), and adjust the compression ratio from F to SF or vice versa. To disable the clips or slow/fast functions, select "Off".

Scroll up or down to activate or deactivate things like the microphone, and Picture Modes. Study the "video recording" screen below and you will see that Olympus added a few more interesting video effects at the bottom of the screen. You will find more on those in the user's manual.

Tip:- When using the camera digital zoom, change to MF. That will prevent the AF from hunting.

General video recording Tips and Techniques

A typical social media video should not be more than 4 minutes. In fact, one of the Instagram video options is only 60 seconds. People's average web attention span is between 2 and 5 minutes. In fact, I was watching a video and the presenter said the attention span is the swipe of a thumb, think of that! One can set the camera clip duration from 1, 2, 4, to 8 seconds. The aim is to record a collection of video clips related to the same storyline. The next step is to combine these clips in a storyline (video) with WorkSpace.

Press the Info button until you see the view below on your camera. Olympus cameras and WorkSpace offer basic "editing" functions. It's important to get the clip right in the camera. The first step is to set the shutter speed, to 1/50 or 1/60 depending on the frame rate (25p/24p or 30p). This is referred to as the 180-degree shutter angle. (Search my favorite videos page information on shutter angle)

With Shutter Priority selected, the camera is now in full Auto mode and will automatically select the aperture and ISO. When outside in sunny conditions, the camera will need higher shutter speeds. The challenge is the shutter speed should stay fixed at 1/50th or 1/60th. This is why we have ND filters. ND filters are used to control the amount of light reaching the sensor (exposure). Use the histogram and adjust the variable ND filter to control the final exposure.

To plan your movie or "walk my dog" report, see the points below:-

• Introduction - What can people expect (2 seconds Title or walking shoes & dog)
• The story - the story consisting of the different elements described below
• The closing - Text like "The End" or a short clip of the dog "resting" 

Use the following techniques to build the story:-

• Show an overview shot of the event, venue, or situation (slow panning movements)
• Find & record detail - zooming in, macro or close up's, focus on subjects or people
• Look for emotional moments - slow motion, close up facial shots, and/or animals

Tip:- Some Olympus cameras have a 120fps slow-motion option. Some are 720p and others 1080p. We selected 1080p for his article. That means the 720p options will not be a good fit.

See this interesting article with 7 tips on camera movements.

Additional comments and ideas

• Study YouTube videos for ideas on how to move the camera - practice & apply
• Configure the camera direction keys to control electric zoom on Oly EZ lenses
• Practice using the camera special effects (Picture Modes, Filters, Monochrome)
• Practice camera movements, working with/without the Camera Handle and IBIS
• Plan ahead, think what the final video/project will look like before recording
• Practice controlling available light using LED sources, reflectors, and flashes
• Home filmmakers do not really need Log Profiles and/or special flat profiles
• As you grow more advanced in editing, then 4K and Log Profiles are great
• Color Grading - when starting with video, Auto WB is perfectly OK and safe
• Study the Users Manual (P78-83) when it's your first Olympus video project

What you don't need

• Running in and out the camera screen to check your camera CAF
• 4K, 6K, or 8K to create great videos - 1080p or FHD is perfectly OK
• The lowest noise, highest DR, and fastest AF or the best EVF
• The best sharpest lens on the market - filming is not like photography
• Fact is, with practice Olympus cameras will deliver amazing recordings
• Panning the camera fast from left and right to test "Rolling Shutter" 

The GH1 is a classic and capable of producing great results - selling for +/- $65

The advice I would pass on to those interested in filming is to steer away from photography forums and YouTubers worshipping specifications and the virtues of full-frame cameras. Most of them dwell in perfect make-believe bubbles, which are disconnected from casual filmmakers. Master your Olympus, and learn to trust your eyes. Be brave and creative while filming as often as possible.

Recording video clips and managing them in the camera

Follow the steps below when recording your first video clip:-

• Select the camera Movie Mode on the mode dial
• Use a storyline to help you identify which clips to record
• Fit a fixed or variable ND filter to the lens
• Set the shutter speed to 1/50th for 25p/24p or 1/60th for 30p
• Adjust the final exposure using the ND filter and check the histogram
• Select the "Clip" duration and recording speed
• Check IBIS plus digital stabilization for video is "ON" (MS1) 
• Press the "Red" recording button to start & stop the recording

While recording, you will see a small "clip" timer at the bottom right of the camera screen. When the clip is done the camera will automatically switch to the screen below.

Press the down button and follow the steps below. You can also press the Up button to review the clip. It's better to first go to the step below and review the clip later. The reason is when you review the clip first, you will not have an option to go back to the step below.

The above two images show the current projects and timelines in the camera. The first view you see is the view on the left after pressing the down arrow.

With the view on the left, you can remove clips from the timeline or start new projects. It's possible to work with multiple projects. One can move clips to the left or right on the timeline or up to "Create a New Project". One can also "Remove the Clip". The image on the right shows 2 projects. When done press OK.

Now you ready to record the next clip. Always check the clip recording time and recording speed before recording the next clip. If at any time you like to "edit" (shift clips on the timeline) while in the field, follow the steps below:-

Press the playback button to see the view on the above left. For more menu options press the OK button. This will open the menu on the right. This menu has no option to edit clips. To edit clips you need to press the Menu button to go back to the view on the left. Then turn the camera back dial one-click to the left to see the view below, on the left.

The above images show 3 steps. Follow these steps to edit or rearrange your project timeline. Press the buttons on the views in steps 1 & 2 (see the arrows). This will take you to step 3. In step 3, you select the clip you like to "edit" and press OK. This will take you to the view on the bottom left.

From the menu, select "Rearrange Order" and press OK. This will open the image on the right. Now you can move the clip to the "New" tab. You can also remove the clip. When done press OK. This will take you back to step 3. Select the next clip you like to move and press OK. Continue to apply the same sequence while editing the timeline. When done press the shutter button halfway to go back to video recording mode.

Below is an alternative method to edit the timeline.

To export the final video directly from the camera, press the image review button, and select "Export My Clips". Keep in mind exporting clips directly from the camera takes battery power and it can take a while.

When exporting the video with the camera, you need to check the following:

• Clip effects - Select one of six effects
• Transitions - Select "Fade" or "None".
• BGM - Background Music - the EM5 II has one melody pre-installed
• Clip Volume - Adjust the clip playback volume

The short video below was prepared with the EM5 MKII. When I exported the video, I selected no transitions, the Light Tone picture mode, and BGM (Back Ground Music). When uploading the video to YouTube, it is safer to upload the video in MP4 format.

In this project we selected MOV. To change the video format, open the video with Workspace and exported it again as an MP4 file. For more, see further down.

All video clips recorded with the EM5 II and the video was rendered in the EM5

Download clips from the SD card & editing in WorkSpace

Workspace has basic but functional video editing tools for beginners. They are similar to what you will see in advanced editing environments.

Please study the image below.

Workspace offers 4 easy steps to edit and prepare videos:-

1. Prepare and trim the clips with the Clip Trimming tool (Step 1)
2. Build the Timeline with the Merge Frames tool (Step 2)
3. Add external audio or music to your project
4. Export or render the final video

Follow steps 1 and 2 (see above image). If you need more information on WorkSpace, go to the help menu and download the pdf version of the WorkSpace User Manual. The image below shows how to organize your clips, where to file your "edited" clips, and how to save your final video.

Import the video clips from the SD card to the Video folder and the edited clips to the Projects folder. Give the edited clips descriptive file names and give each clip a "scene" number. When working with many clips it's important to clearly mark each clip. Study the example below.

I did not test the "add audio" or external music function on WorkSpace. Workspace does not have an audio editor. If you like to prepare separate audio files with music and sounds from the clips look for a separate audio editor you can use with your Mobile Phone.

The final step is to export your video. See the image below for more details. I used the MP4 format. When uploading MOV files to YouTube, they will be compressed and the results are not good. The export function (image below) is also a great tool to convert video formats. Open the video in WorkSpace and export it again with the new format.

Congratulations, you completed your first video project. Have fun, produce many videos, and show your grandchildren how it's done on Instagram...

Below is a video my wife recorded with her EM10 MKIII fitted with the 14-150mm. She uses full Auto Mode with no ND filters. She edits her clips in iMovie. This an example of not applying the basic video principles we covered in this article. It also shows that anything is possible.

Video clips recorded with the EM5 II and the video was prepared in WorkSpace

Final Thoughts and Q&A

How does one add Titles in WorkSpace

Olympus Workspace or the camera cannot add text to images or videos. One could prepare the text separately in Powerpoint. The idea is to then film a clip with the title:-

• Print the Powerpoint or Keynote page and film a 2s clip of the title
• For example:- Record a 2-sec clip of a black screen and then a 2-sec title clip
• The timeline will then have a 2-sec black, then the title, and then the video...
• You could also film the title clip directly from the PC screen (using a presentation)
• On my Mac, I have a screen recorder. (It records what is happening on the screen)
• With something like iMovie, text, titles, and openings are all done in iMovie

How to create separate Audio Tracks

Workspace has a basic Audio Editor but it does have the option to add separate audio tracks to the video. If you like to create a music track with a combination of sounds from your clips, try this:-

• Play the edited and ready timeline on your PC
• Simultaneously play a separate music track on your home stereo
• Adjusting the volume on these 2 tracks, use your mobile to record the final audio track
• Link the final audio track to your video with WorkSpace
• With a different editor like iMovie, this process is all done in iMovie

The above method might look like a strange technique but keep in mind it works. Add a bit of flair and creativity and you will have the necessary tools to create great video projects in WorkSpace.

How should I manage my web presence?

At the moment, much is written about vlogging and video reporting. Many photographers are discovering the power of video and people like to create holiday or event videos.

There are basically two on-line options, one is live streaming and the other is to first build the video from different clips. The first is a live event and for experienced presenters and vloggers. The second is great for storytelling and for those who prefer to control and select their best clips first and then edit a final movie. For those who are starting with a video and those who like to start a web presence, see the steps below:-

• Open a Google account which will give you access to YouTube
• Go to Google and YouTube Training Center and search for how-to videos
• The first step is to upload edited videos to YouTube
• From YouTube, share the links with friends and family
• Create an Instagram account
• Search the web for info, how to prepare images and videos for Instagram
• The final step is, be active, comment on others work, and follow people

What is the next step?

This is an open question. The options and variations to this question are endless. Keeping it simple, my advice is the following:

• Shoot longer clips to cut/edit shorter clips (from the same recording or clip).
• Move to more powerful video editing software, the options are:-
• Various iPad options of which one is iMovie
• iMovie for Mac is simple and easy to learn plus it's powerful
• I used Adobe Premiere Elements for years - great for video editing
• I stopped using Premiere Elements because it had a problem with Mac's
• I use Apple's Final Cut Pro, a professional video editing package
• Davinci from Black Magic is free for personal use and it's easy to learn
• Adding monitors, gimbals, microphones, and a camera cage
• Join groups or training courses to improve your video editing skills
• Join local clubs that do video as a hobby - its great for support

It is important to ask questions before buying new video gear. There are many great toys but chances are you will never use them.