Last updated:- 24th January 2025
This article reviews the technical and optical strengths and weaknesses of different sensor sizes and why the demand for high ISOs doesn't apply to all wildlife photographers. My goal with this article is to illustrate alternative options hobby photographers could use for wildlife photography. Please study the included links for more about planning and selecting optimum weather and light conditions.
Also, study this article about wildlife photography with the Zuiko 12-200mm lens.
Olympus E-3 with the Zuiko 50-200mm f2.8-3.5. ISO160, f8, 1/125. I converted the Enhanced Raw File in Workspace.
Most full-frame promoters claim they need higher ISOs for wildlife photography. The commercial spin is that full-frame cameras are better at higher ISOs. The challenge is high ISOs are not the only option in diverse conditions or wildlife photography. For example, how much "Reflected Light" exposes the sensor at +ISO20K or an ISO amplification of 7-Stops. How many hobby photographers do pre-sunrise or post-sunset wildlife photography? Most wildlife safaris are scheduled after sunrise or before sunset. Some of the best wildlife photography opportunities are in the morning or late afternoon.
Study this article about the most likely available light at ISO6400 or higher.
E-3 with the Zuiko 28mm f2.8 lens. ISO160, f2.8, 1/100. I edited this Low-light Raw file with PL-5 and DeepPrime NR.
This article reviews the technical and optical aspects of digital cameras. For example, there are many ways to evaluate M43 cameras and improve your wildlife photography. It's crucial to master concepts like Sensor Saturation and SNR if you plan to capture wild animals in poor lighting conditions.
Olympus E-3 with Zuiko 50-200mm f2.8-3.5 lens. ISO160, f8, 1/640. I edited the Enhanced Raw file in Workspace.
"Olympus wildlife photographers are cheating..."
It's always fun to see a full-frame photographer's reaction to Pro-Capture. Some say Pro-Capture is an unfair advantage (cheating). I also disagree with those claiming that crop sensors have more noise as it always points to the commercial "size and capture" theory. Noise is NOT a function of sensor size because every sensor has a noise floor with Read and Shot noise. The characteristics of this noise floor are technical and a function of sensor design. I also think a classic "portrait" look with a blurred background applies to specific wildlife environments like waterholes or open fields. The challenge most wildlife photographers face is showcasing the natural habitat of wild animals.
My family and I left South Africa 20 years ago, and will always be part of Africa. This is a typical bushveld scene.
How does a theoretical explanation benefit photographers?
Each photographer should start with these 6 points:-
- All lenses have diffraction, and this is something photographers manage.
- Sensors are linear devices, and they record less tonal data at lower SNRs
- A saturated image sensor has a higher SNR with less visible image noise
- The aperture and shutter speed control the reflected light to the sensor
- The ISO function amplifies the image signal and the sensor's noise floor
- Pixels capture photons and not the size of the backplate housing them
Olympus E-3 with the Zuiko 50 - 200mm f2.8 - 3.5 lens - ISO160, f3.5, 1/3200 - The Raw file was converted in PhotoLab 5
We know M43 photographers enjoy a 2EV Depth of Field (DOF) advantage plus the size and weight of M43 lenses are lower. The summary below is designed for M43 wildlife photographers:-
- M43 photographers can safely use apertures between f4,5 and f7,1 (and higher)
- It's OK to target shutter speeds between 1/400 and 1/4000 (landscape to action)
- Always confirm your exposure settings. (start with: ISO400-1600, f6.3, 1/2000)
- Learn to use Shutter Priority, fixed ISO values, exposure comp, and the histogram.
- Understand the benefits of saturating the sensor or managing the SNR-to-ISO ratio.
- In most cases, M43 cameras don't need more than ISO3200. Also, use AI NR (WS)
- Why only IS=3200? Consider the advantage of having IBIS with suitable scenes.
- Planning and selecting the best time of the day is critical for wildlife photography.
- They always keep a sturdy tripod with them. IBIS does not stabilize your subject
Olympus E-3 with the Zuiko 50-200mm f2,8-f4 Pro lens. ISO160, f4, 1/2000. I converted the raw file with PhotoLab 5.
The above scene showcases the animal's natural habitat. They are experts at hiding and being one with nature. They are seldom in open spaces in the
bushveld or
Kruger National Park. Wild animals will only enter open spaces when they need water. I prefer the bushveld areas over the danger associated with open drinking spaces. That's why I don't do portrait-style wildlife photography with blurred backgrounds. The above image represents a more natural look for wildlife photographers.
E-3 with the Zuiko 50-200mm f2.8-35 lens. The Enhanced Raw File was converted in Workspace.
Andrew Goodall is one of my favorite wildlife photographers. This
video shows his 2023 photo summary with excellent wildlife photos. It's a good idea to make notes of his camera settings.
Most game drives are done in poor to good daylight conditions. Waterholes are very popular. Talk to your local ranger about photography spots and what you like to see. List the
animals you want to photograph while they are at these waterholes. Discuss your lighting preferences and having the sun behind you. Always ask for info about sunrise and sunset safari drives or other opportunities. Another exciting destination for wildlife photography is the
Etosha National Park in Namibia.
Olympus E-3 with 50-200mm f2.8-3.5 lens. ISO160, 1/4000, f3.5, -0.7EV (PhotoLab 5)
Which M43 cameras are best for Wildlife Photography?
The best M43 wildlife photography camera is the one you keep with you. I purposely uploaded these images of my older Olympus E3 (10MP). Wildlife photographers don't need "forum-approved" cameras, the latest and greatest cameras, or those with the best reviews for wildlife photography.
Olympus E-3 and 50 - 200mm f2.8 - 3.5 Zuiko lens. ISO160, f3.5, 1/320. I converted the raw file with Workspace.
The Olympus E3 has no AI Subject Recognition or Eye Detection. It was launched with the quickest AF lock-on time in 2007. While most photographers enjoy the benefits of technology and new autofocus algorithms, it does not need to be a deal breaker for experienced wildlife photographers.
Olympus E-3 with 50-200mm f2.8-f3.5 lens. ISO160, 1/2000, f3. I converted the raw in PhotoLab 5.
Conclusion
Olympus has an excellent range of professional equipment. Pro lenses are designed for the highest levels of image quality,, image details, weather sealing, and fast apertures. These extreme levels of performance are only necessary when doing professional wildlife photography. Plan your photo sessions...
Standard and Premium Zuiko lenses are more than enough for most hobby photographers. They have excellent image quality. While they are slower lenses they are good for starting wildlife photography. I decided to focus on three affordable solutions for those interested in wildlife photography.
Olympus E-3 with 50-200mm f2.8-3.5 lens. ISO160, f2.8, 1/640. Handheld and I converted the Raw file in PhotoLab 5.
I prefer to use Olympus lenses with Olympus cameras and Panasonic lenses with Panasonic. These two manufacturers use vastly different autofocus systems. You will get the highest levels of compatibility when combining Olympus lenses with Olympus cameras. I have some lenses from Panasonic, like the Leica 25mm f1.4 and the Lumix 35 - 100mm f2.8...
Olympus E-3 with the Zuiko 50-200mm f2.8-3.5 lens. ISO160, f8, 1/160. I converted the Enhanced Raw File in Workspace.
Did you see the unique "bokeh" backgrounds of the original Olympus Zuiko 50-200mm lens? There's something special about this original version. The newer version has a smoother background blur. I used both and like the older version more for its unique attitude. While the M.Zuiko 12-200mm backgrounds are more refined, its "character" resembles that of the older 50-200mm lens.
Olympus E-3 with 50-200mm f2,8-3,5 lens. ISO160, f3.5, 1/500. Converted with PhotoLab 5.
Let's start with a few M.Zuiko Digital Lenses:-
- 40 - 150mm f4 - f5.6 (This is a good lens and perfect for smaller game parks)
- 14 - 150mm f4 - f5.6 (This multi-purpose lens works for smaller game parks.)
- 12 - 200mm f3.5 - f6.3 (An excellent lens and perfect for Kruger National Park)
- 75 - 300mm f5.6 - f6.7 (It's a good lens for large parks like Etosha National Park)
- 100 - 400mm f5 - f6.3 (I never used this lens. It should work for large game parks)
E-3 with Zuiko 50-200mm f2.8-3.5 lens. ISO160, f3.5, 1/1600, -0.3EV. I converted the enhanced raw file in Workspace.
These are more cost-effective lenses for beginners and semi-advanced photographers. They offer excellent image quality with cameras like the EM10 II/III, EM5 II/III, EM1 I/II/III, and the OM-1.
Smaller
Bush Lodges offer several opportunities for casual bird and wildlife photographers. South Africa has many of these smaller reserves with short hiking routes. These parks do not have the Big Five and are perfect for those enjoying more casual nature, birding, and wildlife photography.
E-3 with the Zuiko 50 - 200mm f2.8 to f3.5 lens - ISO160, f3.5, 1/500 - The Enhanced Raw File was converted in Workspace.
Which secondhand Olympus cameras are best for wildlife photography?
- The EM1 II is a great wildlife camera. They are affordable and have Pro features.
- The EM1 III is a more advanced camera. They are also more expensive secondhand.
- The EM5 II, the EM5 III, and the EM10 II-IV are affordable and excellent cameras.
- I recently bought a used EM1 MKI and was blown away by this excellent camera.
Olympus E-3 with the Zuiko 14-54mm f2.8-3.5 lens. ISO160, f9, 1/125. The Enhanced Raw File was converted in Workspace.
Here are my 3 proposals with one bonus camera:
- EM1 II with the 100-400mm f5-f6.3 lens (Also consider the 75-300mm or 12-200mm)
- EM5 III with the add-on Grip, the Zuiko 75-300mm, or the Zuiko 12-200mm lens
- The older EM5 II with the 14-150mm f4-f5.6 II lens is an excellent combination
- The Pen F or the E-P7 with the 18mm f1.8 and the 14-150mm f4-5.6 II lens
Olympus E-3 with 50-200mm f2.8-3.5 lens. ISO 160, f3.5, 1/2000. Raw file converted in PL5.
Also, consider the Olympus 40-150mm f2.8 Pro lens with the 1.4X and 2X converters. This will give you more "Pro" flexibility plus a maximum full-frame reach of 600mm at f5.6.
Olympus E-3 with the Zuiko 14-54mm f2.8-3.5 lens. ISO160, f4.5, 1/400. I converted the Enhanced Raw File in Workspace.
Wildlife, bird, and landscape photography are great fun. Take the time to walk and practice with your new zoom lens before booking a trip to a game park in Africa. Finally, nothing beats the love for nature, enthusiasm, patience, and practice with your Olympus cameras.
It was fun editing these RAW files of my older Olympus E3. It doesn't take much to say this is a great camera when going through the E3 images. I sold my E3 while being happy with its performance and image quality. I can only imagine what the RAW files would be like if I knew more about the ISO-to-SNR ratio. I wish every photographer gets the chance to master these basics...
Take care...
Siegfried
Olympus E-3 with 25mm f2.8 lens. ISO160, f3.5, 1/320. Raw file converted with PhotoLab 5 and DeepPrime NR