Better Image Quality with Image Stacking

Last update:- 20th May 2024

Introduction.

I am busy updating this article. (16 Nov 24)

We are discussing image quality, stacking, and computational photography. Image quality is the sum of the sensor, lens, image processor, and knowledge. Modern Image Processors mean better control and computational features. It's possible to optimize the sensor's Saturation and SNR and Olympus created an excellent range of Standard, Premium, and Pro Zuiko lenses. For example, cameras select an average exposure, and knowledge enables us to use optimum exposures. For example, stacking, composite, bracketing, and computational options mean higher image quality and more creative control, while some say it's all about sensors and expensive cameras...

I also did an article with 4 TIPS on how to improve your photography. link

We are reviewing the Olympus Auto HDR (High Dynamic Range) and Bracketing functions and how they give us more control over our image quality. Auto HDR converts 3 bracketed exposures into one HDR (JPEG) image. Auto HDR and Exposure bracketing give us more dynamic range and tonal data in the shadows and midrange areas of the image. These different Auto HDR and Bracketing options are available with most Olympus EM10, EM5, PEN, EM1, OM5, and OM1 cameras.

Olympus EM5 II with 12-50mm f3.5-6.3 EZ lens - ISO1600, f6.3, 1/80 - 40MP high-Res image edited in Photoshop.

Olympus designed an interesting range of advanced camera features to enable hobby photographers. One can categorize these unique features into four groups:

• Long Exposure times
• Composite Techniques
• Stacking Techniques
• Powerful Tonal Adjustments
• Creative Color adjustments
• Computational photography
• Workspace Raw conversion

The following applications or techniques are linked to these features:

• Traditional bracketing (exposure, focus, white balance, ISO, and ART)
• Computational functions like focus-stacking and high-resolution images
• Editing software like Photoshop has similar options like HDR functions
• Various camera and image editing techniques for more creative results
• Olympus computational functions, Live Time, Live Comp, and ND filters

One way of improving image details is the Photoshop Merge to HDR Pro function. It combines 2 or more bracketed exposures into one high-detail 32-bit image. This method works well for product and landscape photography. The benefits are similar to HDR or the Olympus Hi-Res mode.

The Photoshop Merge to HDR Pro function is also used for traditional HDR images. Follow the image descriptions for examples of stacking 3 or more bracketed images into one HDR photo.

The High-Detail 32-bit function in Photoshop

I selected 3 bracketed exposures from my photo collection to test the 32-bit HDR Pro function. I used Adobe Bridge to open the 3 images in HDR Pro. The high-detail 32-bit Pro option is one of several HDR possibilities. It's now possible to create natural-looking HDR photos. The surreal HDR look is something of the past with the High Detail 32-bit HDR Pro function.

I used 3 bracketed images from my Canon 350D and processed them with the Photoshop High Detail 32-bit HDR Pro function.

Study these 3 Canon 350D histograms. Nobody talked about sensor performance or optimizing the image sensor when I took these 3 bracketed images in 2004. I knew nothing about sensor saturation or SNR. I simply followed forum and magazine advice when taking the 3 exposures.

The histograms show the default exposure was good. The 350D did a great job selecting the best exposure for the initial image. It shifted the shadow and midrange tonal data to the right and protected the highlights. It helps to use your camera frequently and create opportunities and projects to practice these and other Olympus computational features.

Three Bracketed Exposures

                    Under Exposed                       Default Exposure                     Over Exposed

High Dynamic Range (HDR) images

What is the best default exposure for High-Detail and HDR sequences? The principle of merging stacked images into one photo allows the HDR software to select the best tonal data from each image and combine them into one HDR photo. One typically uses +/-1EV steps to create HDR photos. The initial or default exposure should maximize the tonal data for every bracketed exposure. 

Another interesting method is Exposure Blending. See this function in Photoshop. It puts 3 bracketed images into separate layers with a mask highlighting the best data for each layer. This lets us see which parts of the bracketed images should go to the final HDR photo. The photographer can tweak these separate masks to focus on specific data areas, noise, and shadow details.

Experiment and practice with your camera's exposure settings and histogram until you find the best exposure technique to complement your photography style. For example, the presenter in the above video used 2 bracketed images to explain the Photoshop "Merge to HDR Pro" function.

Olympus EM5 II with 12-50mm f3.5-6.3 EZ lens - ISO1600, f4, 1/80, -0.3EV - Enhanced Raw file converted in Workspace and edited in PS.

What about the HDR1 and HDR2 functions in Olympus cameras?

The Olympus HDR function is one of the most underrated Olympus features. It is available for most Olympus cameras and can be configured in Shooting Menu 2. The secret is to use the Olympus HDR function in Manual Exposure mode. It's also possible to use Auto or Semi-Auto (A or S) mode...

Olympus EM5 II with 12-45mm f4 Pro lens - ISO200, f4, 1/80 - this is a handheld HDR1 image - the OOC jpeg was prepped in WS and PS.

Use the camera's HDR1 or HDR2 function and set the default exposure for optimum image data. The histogram lets us determine each capture's tonal data range. The camera will automatically select ISO200. That means you need a tripod in low light. The base or starting exposure determines whether your focus is shadow, midrange, or highlight data. For example, use ETTR for the initial (default) exposure to increase your shadow data or reduce the exposure to protect the highlights.

Olympus placed HDR1 and HDR2 in the AP menu of newer cameras like the E-P7. Turn the mode dial to AP, select HDR, and press the down arrow. It is not possible to configure HDR1 or HDR2.

Olympus EM5 II with 12-50mm f3.5-6.3 EZ lens - ISO1600, f8.0, 1/250, -0.7EC - 40MP high-Res image edited in WS & Photoshop.

Conclusion

I discussed different ways to record an image. We understand the basic principles of sensor saturation and SNR and reviewed examples of various computational and exposure techniques. Knowledge is crucial because it lets us do more with the camera and image-editing software. A good example is WS and the Enhanced Raw Format. Is Workspace always better than Lightroom or PhotoLab?

Why does the camera's HDR function need bracketing? Because the shutter and aperture project a uniform exposure (image) onto the sensor. Study my previous articles for more information...

Olympus E-M5 II with 12-45mm f4 Pro lens - 40MP high res image.

Why should one ignore those who criticize the High-resolution function? Experienced photographers plan for movements caused by people or wind when using stacked images to create photos. Typical examples are focus bracketing, exposure bracketing (HDR), and high-resolution imaging. For example, full-frame cameras have a smaller DOF than M43 cameras. You will, therefore, find that many full-frame and medium-format photographers use focus bracketing for landscape photography...

Olympus EM5 II with 12-45mm f4 Pro lens - 3 bracketed exposures processed in "Merge to HDR Pro" and edited in PS.

Which exposure technique is best? Knowledge is an enabler and necessary. It's good to know more about sensors and how we optimize their performance because digital cameras can do more and are more complex than analog cameras. That's also why I spent so much time on the image sensor and managing its saturation and SNR. This article illustrated different computational and image results. Each scene is unique and benefits from an experienced photographer showcasing its beauty. The type of scene and final image determine which exposure technique is better...

The Olympus E-M5 II is a surprisingly capable camera in 2024 and can be bought "like new" for less than $250. It has almost all the computational and video features of the E-M1 II. Used Olympus cameras like the E-M10 II, E-M5 II, E-M1 I/II/III, and the E-PL8/9 are selling at bargain prices...

Best

Siegfried

The OM-D series E-M5 and E-M10 cameras

 Last Update:- 16th June 2023

Introduction.

The Olympus OM-D series pioneered the mirrorless segment as we know it today. Olympus OM-D cameras like the E-M1 I/II/III and the E-M5 I/II/III were leading the industry with at least 10 years in terms of vision, innovation, functionality, and performance. The OM-D series also became the most targeted range of cameras by marketers deploying some of the most aggressive counter-marketing strategies typically found in the Pharmaceutical and Political segments.

The Olympus OM-D E-M10 MKII with a special handgrip and a 14-150mm MKII lens.

I bought my first Olympus OM-D camera, the E-M5 with the 12-50mm f3.5-6.3 EZ lens in late 2012. My first reaction was it's an exciting concept with a high level of flexibility consisting of high-quality lenses plus add-ons like the handgrip and separate battery grip. The E-M5 with a 12-50mm lens was expensive at $1300 when the E-620 and E-P3 were selling for less than $800 each.

The Olympus E-M5 with its unique range of add-ons had a remarkable resemblance to the original OM-4 analog camera and converted many photographers to the M43 mirrorless segment.

The E-M10 followed the E-M5 and received rave reviews. It quickly became as popular as the E-M5. Priced attractively, the E-M10 was very popular at half the price with the new 14-42mm EZ lens. It quickly became a first choice for those upgrading from compact or mobile phones. 

The E-M5 was the first OM-D with the new 5-axis in body image stabilization (IBIS). Other models like the Pen E-P3 and the E-M10 came with 3-axis stabilization. The E-M5 was also the first M43 camera to introduce shuttershock to the M43 mirrorless segment. I recall upgrading from the E-P3, and how frustrating it was to get so many blurred images with my new E-M5. Olympus added a new 0-second Anti-Shock option to fix the problem.

The E-M10 used a different shutter mechanism which helped. All new Olympus M43 cameras benefitted from these new and improved shutter units plus the new 0-second software fix.

The Olympus OM-D E-M10 MKI with a 25mm f1.4 Leica lens.

The E-M10 MKI and MKII were interesting because both came with an optional handgrip like in the above image. The handgrip had a new feature to access the battery or memory card. It's possible to unclip the handgrip from the camera with a unique clip. The handgrip works well with the 14-150mm or 75-300mm lenses. It's a pity that Olympus excluded this option from the EM-5 MKIII. I did not see any mention that this option would be available for the EM5 MKIV. 

This was disappointing because one of the strengths of the O-MD series is its ability to grow in functionality with the handgrip or separate battery grip. This enabled photographers to scale the camera as needed. One moment the E-M5 is a small compact camera, and in the following, it's fitted with a comfortable handgrip, or it changes into an extended battery life...

E-M10 target customers

While evaluating the E-M10 product positioning, we see the original E-M10 was a bit of a "free spirit." It lacked the different EM5 add-ons, weather sealing, and the accessory port. Other than that, it offered the bulk of the EM5 functionality. If you think about the evolution of the EM10s, the simplified chart below describes what I find interesting about these E-M10s. One can create more charts like that's based on different photographers' needs and priorities.

Click on the chart for an enlarged view.

The EM10 MKII was a comprehensive upgrade to the original EM10. I couldn't help thinking it was designed to fill the gap between the original EM5 and the far superior EM5 MKII. Olympus planned the opposite for the EM10 III and positioned it into the existing Pen space.

When Olympus launched the EM5 MKII, it was a more powerful camera than the original EM1. The EM1 MKII followed one year later to re-establish the E-M1's superiority. The EM1 was targeting professionals as well as serious hobby photographers. The Pen range was designed for casual or entry-level photographers and the Pen F for city or street photographers. 

When Olympus introduced the E-M10 MKIV and its simplified user interface, they hinted they were planning to discontinue the Pen F. The E-M5 III also confirmed this. Like with the E-M5 II, photographers expected new and trendsetting features. They were not ready for a "tamed down" E-M1 MKII. That's why the initial disappointment with the E-M5 MKIII.

What happened was a common strategy of optimizing the new factory in Vietnam by re-positioning the product offer and lowering manufacturing and product costs. We also see Olympus considering the complete phasing out of the Pen range. It will not surprise me if any future Pen will exclusively be for the Japanese market and to help Olympus transition the offer... The E-PL10 was initially launched to be this model. This will basically accelerate the overall imaging business profitability or marketability. I think we also see this when we read between the lines with the JIP announcement...

This is one more reason why I question the timing of "selling" the imaging business. 

In one of my previous articles I asked, what did Olympus managers see

 about the global economic recovery that made them run...? 

One cannot help to ask, is Olympus preparing for future camera sales, or were they getting ready to sell the imaging business? Compare this with what we see happening at Canon and Nikon, they delayed their entry into the professional mirrorless segment, and then both introduced new mirrorless cameras with new lens mounts in late 2018? Next, go study Sony and Fuji and ask yourself if they are ready for the future while into the 3rd and 4th generation of their mirrorless camera range. Think of the 12 years it took from introducing the mirrorless concept in 2008 to having a fully refined M43 product offer in 2020. I cannot help smiling when I see photographers raving about the wonderful EVF on their new Canon or Nikon mirrorless camera...

The Olympus EM10 range main functions and features

New EM10 AP Menu.

The new AP menu gives photographers easy access to advanced features. Must say it would have been nice if Olympus added the curves (highlight/shadow) and the Color Creator to the AP menu. With the MKIII it's now more practical to select curves via the SCP, whereas with the MKII one simply uses the multifunction button. The MKII only adjusts highlights and shadows whereas the MKIII and MKIV also adjust mid-tones. When Olympus launched the MKIII they removed the RC (Remote Flash) function. This was quickly "corrected" with the next firmware upgrade.

Is the new AP Menu something useful? It's difficult to say, for someone new to OMD cameras it could be something valuable. For existing OMD owners, my advice is to try it first... I found the AP menu a little frustrating because you need to go back to the advanced menu to access more advanced options. I did not check but I am sure those reviewers complaining about the Olympus menu, also found something with the MKIII and IV menus to complain about...

I studied the EM10 MKIV and the EM5 MKIII at my local camera shop. It is possible to rent these cameras but I honestly cannot make up my mind about Olympus. For example, I bought a Panasonic G9 on the secondhand market and I am considering supporting Panasonic in the future. I feel it is important to support those manufacturers that are loyal to their client base. That does not mean I will not enjoy the extensive secondhand Olympus supply...?

The new EM5 MKIII.

When studying the EM5 MKIII and the EM10 MKIV, I was surprised at how lightweight these new bodies are compared to the EM10 MKII and the EM5 MKII. The original EM5, the EM10, and the EM10 MKII all used a solid metal build. The EM5 MKII has a nasty weakness wearing off the silver, black, or platinum paint at the corners, whereas the EM10 MKI & II stays good for years. Another really irritating aspect of more recent models is the rubber inserts on the thumb position. I first experienced this with the Pen F and I noticed the EM10 MKIII and MKIV have this too. The rubber falls off over time and it's esthetically and functionally not really practical. See my wife's EM10 MIII and my Pen F below. The E-M10 MKII still uses the best solution, it will stay good for years...

That said my wife loves her E-M10 MKIII. She has her 14-150mm fitted almost permanently. It seems the MKIII is manufactured from the same composite material as the MKIV and the E-M5 MKIII. Unlike the E-M5 MKII, these new bodies do not scratch easily or lose paint at the corners. The image and video quality are great and my wife is completely satisfied with her E-M10.

One can talk for hours about these differences, the new panorama function, the AP Menu, the different video options, or the difference in resolution. The bottom line is, that talking makes no difference to these cameras. If it's more video you want, consider the EM1 MKII or the EM5 MKIII. This is true for almost any feature graving forum expert... You can safely select almost any OMD to closely match your own needs, whether it's the original EM10 or any other OMD right up to the EM1X.

Studying the video specifications of the MKII, III, and IV, we see the main differences are:

• The MKII is basically a replica of the EM5 MKII
• Olympus added 4K to the MKIII and IV with an increase in data rate (102mps)
• Olympus added a 720p, 120fps slow-motion to the MKIII and the MKIV
• Olympus removed the All-I option from the MKIII and IV (not all use this)
• The movie options accessible via the AP Menu are the most basic options only
• With the MKIII and IV, it takes a little digging to access more advanced video options
• All the E-M10 cameras benefit from recording with IBIS plus electronic stabilization
• The MKII, III, and IV all have the 4K TimeLapse function - check the details first...
• The MKII slow-motion basically uses 60p and adapts that to the set frame rate

I think it is important to see that while the MKIII and IV benefit from 4K, the MKII has 1080P plus All-I. Studying the MKIV in my local shop I also saw one can buy a brand new EM1 II with 4K and more video options for less than a new E-M10 MKIV. Again the scalability of the EM1 II is excellent plus the additional features one gets with the E-M1 MKII.

Let's talk about a missed opportunity

Panasonic G100 for Vloggers (Panasonic image).

I think the vlogging camera in the above image is shouting a message from the mountaintops. With all I wrote about Olympus, the financial scandal, the amazing turnaround, and the reorganizing of the imaging business, one thing we never discussed is the impact it had on the employees. 

Missing an opportunity to introduce a great vlogging camera, is more than revealing. It's not that nobody knew what vloggers need, or that vlogging is something completely new. Vloggers have been begging for a good vlogging camera. To make things worse Sony and Panasonic are already leading the way but do not have the equivalent of an E-M10 camera...

How did Olympus miss this one with the new EM10 MKIV? Here we have the perfect camera, an amazing new segment, and "policy" or "saddened employees" lacked commonsense?

To make this worse, Olympus cannot go back and quickly adapt the EM10 MKIV because the screen format is completely wrong. I am really too embarrassed to even show a picture of the MKIV flip-down display. Besides, think of the possible cost savings if all OMD cameras had the same display. I think this example demonstrates just how out of touch Olympus was at the end... 

Update 26th Jan 2022:- From writing this article I did decide to stay with Olympus and not to invest in Panasonic. I bought the EM1 III during a special promotion in December 2021 and received the 17mm f1.2 Pro lens at no additional cost.

Conclusion

The E-M10 range cameras are probably the most exciting in the OMD range. From the award-winning MKI with its built-in flash to the latest MKIV, each E-M10 has its own unique strengths and great value. Yes, they are not weather-sealed and the MKIII and IV are a little different. That said, they do have the new AP menu, and many newcomers value that... 

As discussed, Olympus created a unique opportunity with the O-MD range. If you look carefully you will see the E-M1 MKII is a complete bargain new and secondhand. The MKII was commercially available in 2020 plus it was hugely attractive in terms of price and functionality. Now in 2022, they are selling secondhand for less than $200 in our local market. This is no-brainer territory...

It always amazes me to see just how disconnected the financial 

advisors are when it's about engineering and 

designing or consumer behavior...

Olympus Pen-F color and monochrome

Last Update: 7th September 2021

In this article, we will take a look at the different Color and Creative Photography features available with the Olympus Pen F. I will also discuss the new functions Olympus added to the Monochrome, the Color Profile, and the Color Creator functions with the latest V3 firmware upgrade. We will study the Pen-F integration with WorkSpace and how one can share and upload profiles. We will discuss how to create and change profiles and finally, we will have a look at the new Pen F gallery on the official Olympus website.

These images were part of the ad campaign introducing the Pen F as a definition of style and substance in 2016

The Pen-F is one of the most radical and elegant mirrorless cameras ever designed. That said, it was received amidst "unexpected" hostility as most reviewers and forum experts immediately complained about the menu, and then demanded an OMD type "Pen F". These M43 experts also rejected the Pen F, claiming the Creative Dial had no real purpose, it's in the wrong location, and the Creative Dial and ART Filters have no place in modern digital photography. 

Search "Pen F" on the DPReview and the Mu-43 forums and you will be blown away by the negative reactions and the gossip from Olympus and M43 photographers. The most surprising was that none of these "experts" figured out that Olympus was really in the process of introducing a completely new and future Color and Creative Photography concept.

We also saw how the Pen F enabled street photographers and how they welcomed the EVF placement. The unique MonoChrome and Color features made the Pen F special and one of a kind. They could simply select from a list of up to 32 different Color and Monochrome Profiles without having to spend time on location to select individual camera settings.

Something I discuss in my WorkSpace "how-to" article, is the unique Live View feature of WorkSpace. This feature enables photographers to develop their Color and Monochrome Profiles on any WorkSpace "Live View" display. Photographers can now develop and test their new profiles before entering them into the Pen F. Also see Part 6 in my Color and Creative Photography series.

See this launch video of the Pen-F (less than 5 minutes)

Street Photography with the Olympus Pen-F

The interesting Pen-F video with the POV Photo Guy (Highly Recommended)

The Pen F had two firmware updates, see the details below:-

• Olympus added the "Bleech Bypass film" ART filter to the Pen F
• Custom settings C1 to C4 are now included when saving the camera configuration
• This makes it possible to share Pen F configurations with C1 to C4 with friends
• The ability to extract color and monochrome profiles from JPEG images
• You can now share color or monochrome profiles by sharing your JPEG files
• Shading effects have been added to the color profile and the color creator
• The ISO auto settings have been expanded and are the same as the EM1 II
• The monitor AF Targeting Pad performance has been improved
• ART filter selection and the touch function operation have been improved

Below is the User Manual (V3.1) page #, and the related creative Pen F functions:-

• Page 38 - Creative Dial operation
• Page 39 - The Color Profile Tool
• Page 40 - Monochrome Profile Control
• Page 66 - Monochrome Profile Grain filter
• Page 41 - The Color Creator
• Page 42 - Art Filters
• Page 67 - Color filter effects to the Monochrome Picture Mode
• Page 116 - Assigning photo story to C3 and SCN modes to C4
• Page 116 - Photo Story
• Page 118 - SCN Modes
• Page 33, 88 - How to set up Custom Modes
• Page 179 - 182 - A summary of the Firmware updates V2 & V3

I wrote a 6 part color and creative photography series. Please go see parts 3 & 6 if you are new to the color wheel, color harmonies, and how to work with color and your Olympus camera. Also, see my article on how to use the Color Creator.

Setting up the Pen F to its full creative flexibility?

Your Pen F should always be ready for maximum creative use. It's really a mistake to wish the Pen F was some kind of OMD camera. For example, camera manufacturers will carefully select the image sensor for each camera to match the camera concept. This is why Olympus used a different image sensor for the Pen-F and not the same sensor for the EM1 II. The EM1 II was designed for high performance and speed, whereas the Pen F was designed for street photography and ultimate creativity. The EM1 II and the Pen F are completely different cameras and together they cover a wide range of photography applications.

A = Creative Dial / B = Mode Dial (Custom Modes) / C = Lever

The Mode Dial on the Pen F is different from the EM5 II, the EPL9, or the EM1 II. For example, you will not find Photo Story or SCN Modes on the Pen F. You need to first configure the Custom Modes C3 and C4 for Photo Story and SCN Modes before you can use these features on the Pen F. See the above user manual summary and the relevant pages in the user manual. That leaves C1 and C2 open to save your preferred camera configurations and any additional color and monochrome profiles. This enables you to save up to 9 additional colors and 9 additional monochrome profiles.

Tip:- If you like to save new color or monochrome profiles to the custom modes C1 and C2, start by selecting your preferred exposure mode like Aperture Mode (A-Mode).  Now you can configure the Pen F as you like, plus the 3 Color or the 3 MonoChrome Profiles. When done save the configuration to C1 or C2. It is not possible to save a new configuration directly to C1 or C2.

The Olympus Pen-F's main creative modes?

It's sometimes difficult to picture the complete creative magnitude of Olympus cameras and especially, the Pen F. The reason is the different creative features and options are linked to more than one function. For example, looking at ART filters you might say no they are not that interesting. 

It's only when you select ART filters that you see that each ART filter has several more options. Some of these options will also be seen when you work with the Color or Monochrome Profile. You could be in a situation where you quickly want to record a series of images with Photo-Story. You do not want to edit the Photo-Story images when back home, so you decide to use a Pop ART filter with Photo-Story. As you can see these cameras are truly creative masterpieces.

One can summarize the Pen-F creative modes in 6 groups:-

1. The Color Creator
2. The Color Profile (One can save up to 9 profiles in C1 & C2)
3. The Monochrome Profile (One can save 9 profiles in C1 & C2)
4. Monotone "Picture Mode" (different from the monochrome profile)
5. ART Filters, SCN Modes, Photo Story, and HDR
6. Live Composite, Live Time, Panorama, Stacking, Timelapse

Each of these creative groups has access to more options like curves, grain filters, color filters, and shading to assist the photographer in creating the perfect image look and feel in the camera.

The Color Profile Tool

A = You can select 1 of 3 factory set Profiles (Profile 1 is neutral)

Olympus describes the above color profile presets as:

"Of the three color profile presets, Colour Profile 2: Chrome Film Rich Colour provides rich, deep tones, and Colour Profile 3: Chrome Film VS gives rich film colors with high levels of saturation. You can make adjustments to these two presets, or you can create your own color profile from scratch using the Colour Profile 1 preset."

The first color profile (Profile 1) is neutral and available to the user. Profiles 2 & 3 are factory preset color profiles. If you assigned your preferred camera configuration to custom modes C1 and C2, you have 6 (3+3) more options for saving your own profiles. Set up your different color profiles for C1 and C2 and you will have a total of 8 preset color profiles and profile 1 for unique situations. I keep a summary of all my profiles on my mobile phone with a brief description of each profile.

The following variables are included and saved with color profiles:

• Color Profile tool with 12 different color selection
• The Shading function
• The Highlight/Shadow & Midtone function (Curves)
• Sharpness and contrast settings (See the SCP)
• Exposure compensation (Exposure Comp dial on the Pen F)

These are the main settings when creating your own color profiles. Keep profile 1 in the factory setting so that you can quickly adapt colors when out doing photography. Save your own or any shared profiles in the Picture Modes C1 and C2 (6x Profiles in total). Always practice your color awareness. 

For example, practice your color awareness by doing the following:-

• Practice scanning your surroundings, identify colors, and build color harmonies
• When paging through a magazine identify the main colors and the color harmonies
• Be aware of the people's clothes (colors) and check their selection of colors
• Practice using different color harmonies (Complementary, Analogous, and Triadic)
• In time you will find your color awareness and creating harmonies will improve
• See this interesting photographer and his article on working with color - link

With practice, it will become second nature to scan your surroundings, select colors, and build harmonies. Adjust your target colors with Profile 1 using the Color Profil. The more you do this the easier it gets. The secret is to apply small adjustments at a time. In most cases, subtle chances are more effective than extreme color effects.

For example, you are out visiting a historic city with your family. Your partner is dressed in a bright yellow shirt with jeans. The sky is clear so you decide to focus on the complementary colors yellow and blue. You like these colors to stand out with the blue skies above the buildings. Highlighting these complementary colors, you can increase the vividness of yellow and blue with +2. Next, you will reduce the vividness of all the other colors with -2. Next, you will increase the contrast with the curves function, and in the final step, you can create a slight pinhole look with the shading function.

Monochrome Profile

A = Monochrome Profiles / B = Grain filter setting or selection

Olympus describes the above monochrome profile presets as:

"Of the three monochrome profile presets, Monochrome Profile 2: Classic Film B&W provides a grainy monochrome look, and Monochrome Profile 3: Classic Film IR emphasizes red color filter effects for the look of infrared film. You can make adjustments to these two presets, or you can create your own monochrome profile from scratch using the Monochrome Profile 1 preset."

The first Monochrome Profile (Profile 1) is neutral and available to the user. Profiles 2 and 3 are factory-preset monochrome profiles. If you assigned your preferred camera configuration to custom modes C1 and C2 you have 6 (3+3) more options for saving your own profiles. Set up your different monochrome profiles for C1 & C2 and you will have a total of 8 preset monochrome profiles and profile 1 for unique situations. I keep a summary of all my profiles on my mobile phone with a brief description of each profile. All said, with a little practice it's often faster to evaluate the scene and adapt Profile 1.

The following parameters are saved with each monochrome profile:

• The Monochrome Profile with 9 target colors with 3 levels each
• The Shading function settings
• Highlight/Shadow & Midtone settings (Curves)
• Sharpness and contrast (SCP adjustments)
• Film Grain Effect in the (See the SCP)
• The Monochrome base color (found in the SCP)
• Exposure compensation (Exp Comp dial on the Pen F)

When creating your own monochrome profiles follow the steps below:-

• Like with color profiles, be aware of your surroundings and dominant colors
• With monochrome, you only focus on the target color and the opposite color
• When adjusting the blues in the sky, blue will darken and yellow will brighten
• With landscapes, one typically targets the sky, clouds, trees, fields, or structures
• With monochrome or black-and-white scenes, focus and work on strong contrasts
• The first step is to select your target color and adjust it with the profile tool
• The next step is to activate the SCP
• Select a monochrome base color (T) or leave the base color neutral
• From the SCP you can also select black & white or monochrome grain settings
• Finally, use curves to add more contrast and the shading function as required

See the examples below:

Original image on the left and the Monochrome profile using a yellow base color on the right

Again the original image has a color profile, then a monochrome-only profile, and finally a base color

The monochrome profile tool is not the only monochrome or monotone option on the Pen F. All Olympus cameras have the monochrome picture mode. To activate the monochrome picture mode, turn the creative dial to the "OFF" position and press the OK button to activate the SCP. Move the cursor to picture modes and turn the front dial until you see monochrome. The different monochrome options will be available in the SCP.

Olympus Pen F with 50mm f1.8 - ISO200, f4.5, 1/800 (MonoChrome Profile plus a little Photoshop)

How to create/manage and share your color or monochrome profiles?

See my WorkSpace, how-to page here. Go to how-to technique #7 for a detailed explanation of how to manage your profiles. Olympus added a new gallery with color and monochrome images created by different Olympus visionaries. You will find the collection here. Each image can be downloaded and the Exif data is included. Each image also has additional information about the profile. This is a great resource for Pen F photographers looking for ideas and inspiration... 

You can now lift any of these profiles with WorkSpace and transfer them to your camera. You can also open the image in WorkSpace, open the Exif Info, and manually transfer the settings to your Pen F.

Part of the Olympus Pen F collection of color and monochrome profile images

The available information for each image in the gallery

A more advanced technique for developing profiles is described in this article.

For example, it is possible to use color cards to copy and create your own profiles. I created a series of color cards with different DXO film profiles applied to them. Each image has another DXO film profile applied to the color card. This is a little more advanced and you need to be patient and ready to practice. The color cards are also a great help to develop a feel for color and to identify what the other person did when creating profiles.

Then finally visit my Pen F Profile page where I regularly add new profiles I developed or profiles I see on the web. You are also welcome to let me know when you develop a new profile you like to share with others...

I have added a few videos below. They offer more information on additional Pen F creative functions. Sometimes it's enough to apply a basic ART filter, it's not always necessary to look for complex solutions. Unfortunately, I had to remove several links, it seems Olympus is deleting videos from YouTube, I do not know if it is linked to Olympus selling the camera business.

Live Composite

See this link for 7 interesting TIPS on how you can use the Live Composite function. You can also subscribe to this Olympus webpage.

Photo Story

Rob Trek showing how to enter a version of the Kodak 25 profile