M.Zuiko: I have a few M.Zuiko lens catalogs. It is an absolute treat to learn more about these excellent lenses. Highly recommended.
Showing posts with label Olympus WorkSpace. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Olympus WorkSpace. Show all posts

Apr 7, 2026

The histogram and digital imaging process...

Last updated: 12th April 2026 (I added new information and photos from my Olympus Pen E-P7)

The positive memories of filming with VHS inspired my priorities while preparing the next update to my filming series with Olympus cameras. My goal was to prepare the final look of my image and video footage in the camera, which meant more advanced color and exposure techniques. I decided to use two Olympus E-M5 II cameras for their unique film look. The color creator, tonal adjustments, and other settings make it easy to set the look and feel of my videos. I also came across a video from the YouTuber, Duade Paton, which encouraged me to prepare this short article in support of future articles. It's a good idea to watch his video before you study this interesting subject.

PS: The next article in my filming series will be out soon...


Olympus E-M10 II with the M.Zuiko 17mm f1.8 lens. ISO200, f4.5, 1/400. What do we learn from the histogram?


Basic guidelines on the histogram and exposure


The histogram in the above image suggests an optimum exposure mix. The best way to confirm that is to analyze the histogram with the exposure mix. The goal is to evaluate the sensor's saturation level and SNR. The histogram plus the native ISO indicated a saturated sensor. This exposure mix produced excellent image quality with a wide depth of field at f4.5. The 4th exposure variable (late afternoon sun) was also ideal for the scene and the "painting with light" effect. This analysis would have looked different at higher ISOs, even though the histograms might have looked the same.



Summarizing the exposure mix and histogram in the above image:

  • Histogram: A native ISO with no clipping and the histogram to the right.
  • Native ISO: The sensor was saturated (with a high SNR) at its native ISO.
  • Scene Luminance: The late afternoon sun and "painting with light" effect.
  • Aperture: The right focus point at f4.5 - The MFT depth of field advantage.
  • Image sharpness: A shutter speed of 1/400th worked well for sharp results.

It's impractical to evaluate image quality at higher ISOs with only the histogram. The alternative is to add sensor saturation and SNR to the mix with a personalized set of guidelines. The info in this article will help you identify and document "acceptable image quality" SNR values for your camera's sensor and ISO-to-SNR ratios. The reason is each camera and sensor has a unique noise floor.

Tip: LV (Light Values or scene luminance) - Discussed in the Duade Paton video.


Figure 1.


The above image signal flow diagram represents a high-level overview of the digital imaging process. It was created as a basic guide for photographers seeking an alternative to the oversimplified "bigger is better" or "capture more light" theory. The goal is to simplify managing technical aspects like image quality, dynamic range, and image noise. The image signal flow diagram highlights:

  • 4 critical aspects of the digital imaging process (lens, sensor, processor, and Workspace).
  • the 3 variables exposing the image sensor (reflected light, aperture, and shutter speed).
  • the sensor and why the photons to electrons graph is critical for managing the sensor.
  • the exposure formula and the 4 variables we manage in the digital imaging process.
  • the role of the TruePic image processor and finalizing the digital imaging process.
  • the link between the image processor, the exposure controller, and Workspace.

The question photographers fail to ask is, what causes noise, and how do we manage it? The answer is to familiarize yourself with the graph below. While the "water bucket" example worked well to explain the "size and capture" theory, it couldn't explain technical aspects like image noise, sensor saturation, and SNR. Duade Paton added the role of "Light Values" in managing the exposure mix, noise (SNR), and ISO amplification. My suggestion is to add the following to his presentation:

  • A layer of sand at the bottom of the bucket to represent the sensor's noise floor.
  • Explain SNR and the effects of ISO amplification and lower light values on noise.
  • Sensor saturation and the link to SNR, "filling the bucket," or exposing the sensor.

PS: Saturating the sensor (filling the bucket) is not something magically linked to sensor size...


Figure 2.


Many photographers don't know that lower SNR values are the reason for visible noise. The sensor's noise floor is always present; we just don't see it at higher SNRs. In other words, the layer of sand in the bucket is more visible with less water. An alternative approach to having lower SNRs is to saturate the sensor (filling the bucket) at the camera's native ISO, wider apertures, and longer exposures. One could also accept more noise when upping the ISO and shutter speed (lowering the SNR).

It is important to master concepts like 18% gray exposures, tonal or gamma adjustments, and color. The information in this article enables us to explain and manage dynamic range in a similar way as we do with noise. For example, we can explain dual ISO with this knowledge. Marketers unfortunately withhold information because repetitive sales lines have priority over basic knowledge. 

PS. Visible noise simply means the sand is more visible with a partially filled bucket.



Olympus E-M5 II with the amazing M.Zuiko 7-14mm f2.8 lens. ISO500, f3.2, 1/10 sec. I converted the enhanced Raw file in Workspace. 


More about the exposure mix and the histogram


Always remind yourself that the ISO function is another variable in the camera's exposure formula. ISO amplification is the difference between a partially exposed sensor and an 18% gray saturated sensor. The camera needs 18% gray exposures to accurately replicate ambient light and color.

Photographers were never "given" the chance to monitor the camera's sensor or manage variables like sensor saturation, noise, or dynamic range. The reason is the "bigger is better" narrative and social media distractions, like the histogram displays 8-bit JPEG data, ISO 100 on Olympus cameras differs from ISO 100 on others, or we shouldn't trust the histogram because it's inaccurate. These distractions are totally irrelevant when you start applying Live View and the histogram. Why?

A practical way to apply the exposure principles reviewed in this article is to think in terms of f-stops (1 EV steps) while preparing the exposure mix for challenging scenarios. For example, one can double the reflected light exposing the sensor when reducing the ISO by 1 stop. It's crucial to master the digital imaging process (Fig. 1) and the ability to manage the image sensor. Manual exposure mode is the most effective way to monitor specific variables with the histogram and Live View.

Tip: I get the best view when studying the examples below on my 27' iMac...


Example 1 - Ambient light



I am always surprised at the level of ignorance or cognitive dissonance when people boast about using ISO 25600 on social media. For example, ISO 25600 means 7 stops of amplification, whereas the above images illustrate a 3 EV delta. The left image was amplified by 3 stops, or ISO 800, and the image to the right shows how much reflected light reached (exposed) the sensor at ISO 800.

The histogram shows the brightness of the pixels. That means all 4 exposure variables. The horizontal axis is the brightness levels from pure black on the left to pure white on the right (0-255 tonal range), and the vertical axis is the number of pixels at each brightness point on the horizontal axis.

How did I measure the reflected light exposing the sensor? Start by setting your exposure in auto or aperture mode. Change to manual exposure mode and apply the autoexposure values. The histogram will display the reflected light exposing the sensor as you turn the ISO back to its native value. That means the histogram is now measuring reflected light passing through the aperture and shutter onto the sensor. The flow diagram in Figure 1 helps us to identify and target specific phases in the imaging process, and manual mode helps us to display them in Live View and the histogram.

For example, the goal with ETTR is to saturate the sensor. That means more reflected light reaching the sensor. One option is fixing the ISO and adjusting the shutter, aperture, and scene luminance. Use the histogram to monitor the reflected light reaching the sensor. The next example is clipping. For example, it's possible to clip highlights with ISO amplification, which means the sensor is not clipping. Use the histogram to establish which of the 4 exposure variables are causing clipping.

PS. See the exposure formula for why I say 4 exposure "variables" and not only the 3 in the exposure-triangle.


Olympus E-30 with the Zuiko 50-200mm f2.8 lens. ISO100, f5.6, 4" (An ambient light example)


The above image shows it's possible to saturate the sensor in low light. It's incorrect to link noise to low light because longer exposure times saturate the sensor. It simply means the bucket doesn't need to be filled instantly because the sensor is designed to also saturate over longer periods. Higher ISOs, shutter speeds, and noise are, therefore, application-specific. It is critical to consider the reflected light reaching the sensor when setting your aperture and shutter speed mix. Random safety margins cause less light reaching the sensor and lower SNR values or more visible noise. 


Example 2 - Ambient light with +2EV illumination



The above example is exciting because I upped the scene luminance (4th exposure variable) with 2 EV. I used a similar method with the cuckoo clock image. For example, I used a powerful LED light in the above example and selective lighting (painting with light) with the cuckoo clock. Selectively using or applying the time of day is another example of "managing" your scene luminance.

Photographers often need higher shutter speeds in normal daylight conditions. Modern cameras are more efficient at lower saturation and SNR values, which makes higher ISOs of up to +3 stops possible in these conditions. Study the inserted 200% cropped gray cards in the photos. If needed, the AI noise filter of Workspace works from ISO 800 upwards. We can also manage the image look by selectively adding noise to monotone (B&W) or monochrome photos. See the example further down.

I never consider social media talking points like noise, DR, diffraction, or image quality when I am out photographing with my Olympus cameras. I also don't use personalized ISO guides for my cameras. A basic understanding and the knowledge shared in this article are enough to benefit my results with any digital camera. For example, I only use Workspace and Affinity to process my images. Why would anyone prefer MFT unfriendly raw converters over Olympus colors and Workspace?

PS. I can make any camera's ISO test look worse than another with equavilent camera settings... How?


Olympus E-30 with the Zuiko 50-200mm f2.8 lens. ISO100, f5.6, 1" (Another ambient light example)


Here is a list of things we can explain with this article:

- Knowing that the ISO can be a cause of clipping is huge.
- Test the sensor and select the SNR points you are happy to use.
- It is now possible to explain HDR photography with this knowledge.
- The goal with ETTR is to manage and improve sensor saturation and SNR.
- It is now possible to manage the amount of noise in your black & white shots.
- 18% gray exposures and calibrating the WB in WS insure consistent image colors.
- This article reviews a new exposure technique to control the DR in night photography.
- The unique histogram and the Live View functionality of Olympus cameras and Workspace.


Examples of applying the information in this article 


It should be clear that the ISO does not generate noise. One can, therefore, consider the ISO function as an image signal amplifier (Fig. 1) or a creative/control option. For example, it's possible to manage highlight clipping by upping the ISO with one to two stops while setting the exposure mix in manual mode. One would dial the ISO back prior to taking the image. The next step is finalizing the exposure with the exposure compensation and tonal curve options in Workspace. Only the ISO changed while the sensor's saturation and SNR stayed the same. FF promoters call this "magic" ISO invariance.

Tip: Click on the photo collection below and click again for a large view of each.

Pen E-P7 - I used the know-how in this article to set my ISO range (ISO1250 - 3200). Workspace - The Color Creator & basic tonal tweaks.


It's important to keep in mind that modern sensors are so efficient that we don't need this knowledge for stunning results. The purpose of this article is a good understanding of the digital imaging process and the know-how to plan, solve, and optimize challenging and more complex applications.

The following Pen E-P7 images are examples of complex scenes. They were all taken in fast-changing low-light, color-changing, and fast-moving scenes. I started by taking a few test images to evaluate different exposure mix variations. I used aperture mode with various combinations of exposure shifts, exposure compensation, and fixed ISOs to "manage" the exposure mix of my Pen E-P7.

The color creator is perfect for LED lighting and color effects. My circus and X-mas photos were taken in an environment with illuminated colors, which complicates color management in the camera and postprocessing. The color creator behaves differently with reflected and illuminated colors. Olympus cameras with the color creator are excellent options for illuminated color applications.


Olympus Pen E-P7 with the M.Zuiko 45mm f1.8 lens. ISO2500, f1.8, 1/1000. I converted the RAW file in Workspace.


What makes Workspace special? The camera's TruePic imaging environment is part of Workspace and the enhanced RAW file. That means we can tweak our camera settings and finalize our exposure and tonal settings in Workspace and on a large PC screen. For example, we don't have the powerful tone curve function or the extended color options of the Workspace color adjust function in the camera. Workspace lets us do more in a replica of the camera's TruePic imaging environment.

It's exciting to study Olympus/OM System cameras and Workspace. For example, the histogram is only a tiny part of the creative and innovative features the Olympus Engineering team created over many years. For instance, it's unique for older MFT cameras to have access to the latest processing of the creative color strategy and advanced tonal and computational options from Olympus. Photographers also get access to the cameras' TruePic image processor via PC-RAW mode and Workspace.

PS. Fuji Raw Studio does not offer the same benefits for older cameras without the camera being connected to the PC.



The E-M5 & E-P7 Monotone/Monochrome with noise...

E-M5 with the M.Zuiko 12mm f2.0 lens. ISO12800, f9, 1/150. Monotone Picture Mode.


I took the above image with my Olympus E-M5. I selected the MKI because it has a larger noise floor than more recent cameras. The E-M5 histogram and Live View showed that the sensor received almost no reflected light at ISO 12800. It wouldn't surprise me if the sensor's actual exposure level were at the Absolute Sensitivity Threshold (Fig. 2). Will ISO 24600 increase the visible noise?

The next image was taken with the E-P7 in monochrome mode. My E-P7 review received more views than any of my other articles. The daily views tripled when the rumor surfaced that OM System might release an E-P8 in 2026. The monochrome function (Pen F, E-P7, and OM-3) is absolutely brilliant. It's also frustrating to see social media statements like "My favorite monochrome profile..." I'd rather see people experiment and manage their own monochrome look. Workspace and the enhanced raw format are perfect for tweaking and practicing your monochrome photography skills.

I couldn't confirm it, but read Olympus studied analog prints to create the realistically looking "noise patterns" of the Pen F, E-P7, and OM-3 monochrome function. I used the 2nd option below.

PS. Which of the older Olympus cameras have the best looking monotone noise?


E-P7 with the M.Zuiko 12mm f2.0 lens. ISO1000, f4.0, 1/20. Monochrome Picture Mode.


In summary, always plan and apply all 4 exposure variables controlling the camera's 18% gray exposure mix and practice using the histogram to follow the scene luminance exposing the sensor. The image signal flowchart and photons-to-electrons graph are basic tools to help us master key variables like sensor saturation, SNR, and the ISO (image signal amplification). While the ISO is part of the exposure formula, it does not directly control the reflected light to the sensor. Other key elements impacting the digital imaging process are the lens, sensor, TruePic processor, and Workspace.


OM System OM-3 with the tiny M.Zuiko 9-18mm f4 - 5.6 lens. I converted the RAW file in Workspace - AUTO Gradation.


Folks, it should be clear why we only see some references speculating about the information in this article. The complete "bigger is better" commercial theory will fail as people learn more about digital photography. For example, I only use the "low" noise filter in Workspace and Olympus cameras. Noise and dynamic range have become nonissues to the experienced photographer, which explains why not all Olympus and OM System cameras have access to the Workspace AI noise filter. 

Someone who recently changed to an OM System cameras made an interesting comment. The person said that one of the main aspects sparking his interest in MFT cameras was the knowledge and general creativity associated with Olympus and OM System photographers/communities.

Best

Siegfried

PS. I took these circus photos last weekend with a tiny kit consisting of the E-P7, the 17mm f2.8, and 45mm f1.8 lenses. Most MFT photographers don't appreciate the significance of the 2-stop depth of field advantage we have with Micro Four Thirds. For example, I took most of these images at f1.8 with the right focus points. That means I applied the 2-stop DOF and ISO/SNR (lower noise) MFT advantage with my E-P7. The Olympus cluster-autofocus function again proved to be a winner...


Olympus E-P7 with the M.Zuiko 45mm f1.8 lens. ISO1600. f4, 1/250. I converted the RAW file in Workspace - Color Creator.


An action shot with the E-P7 and M.Zuiko 45mm f1.8 lens. ISO3200. f1.8, 1/640. RAW converted in Workspace.


E-P7 with the M.Zuiko 17mm f2.8 lens - ISO1600, f2.8, 1/400. Raw converted in Workspace - Color Creator.


Pen E-P7 with the M.Zuiko 45mm f1.8 lens. ISO1600, f1.8, 1/200.


Olympus PEN E-P7 with the M.Zuiko 17mm f2.8 lens. Click and download to see my camera/editing settings in Workspace...


Jan 1, 2026

My home studio layout continues to evolve...

Last update:- 11th January 2026

One of the more exciting photography applications is home studios and product photography. It's also a treat to watch product photographers advising others on how to grow successful businesses with a "perfect" home studio. These vary from a basic mobile phone to professional product studios. I have been working on a more flexible home studio and lighting configuration after years with a small off-the-shelf home studio. I upgraded the standard lighting to two Olympus FL600 flashlights, which gave me more control in RC mode when placing them in the right positions for product shoots. I had little freedom with this studio and wanted a new layout with more configuration options.


This basic off-the-shelf home studio was a gift from my dear wife.


My son and I talked about photography and other while spending a day together in December. He told me about a training session he did with an experienced group of photographers. The focus was studio layouts and creating a specific mood or atmosphere with studio lights. Being interested in the subject, I couldn't wait to try some of the techniques he mentioned in our conversation. A few days later we enjoyed an eventful Christmas Day as a family with grandchildren, presents, dinner, and me sharing some of the photos I created with my improved home studio and lighting setup.


Olympus E-450 and the Zuiko 50mm f2 macro lens. (ISO100, f3.5, 1/100)


My son didn't say much about my photos other than suggesting a quick hands-on session while waiting for dinner. He shared more basics and creative ideas on studio lighting and how it relates to outdoor conditions. He was using my OM System OM-3, while I tried the older Olympus E-450 before and after our hands-on session. The children had fun creating handmade shadows on the backdrop...


OM System OM-3 and the M.Zuiko 25mm f1.8 lens. (ISO3200, f3.5, 1/125)


I thought the image quality of the E-450 was way better than what most would have expected. What made my OM-3 an appropriate choice is its high-sensitivity BSI sensor and pro-level features. The OM-3 made it easier to capture excellent shots with better framing and creative angles. For example, the OM-3 photos were all handheld, whereas the E-450 lived on my tripod most of the time.

One of the interesting outcomes experimenting with home studios and new studio lighting options is how much I needed to learn about color, light, and product photography.


A few shots with the OM-3 and the SmallRig RM01 Kit before our Christmas dinner. (An example of the photographer's eye)


One typically expects large image quality differences between the OM-3 and the E-450, considering social media claims about newer and high-resolution cameras. The OM-3 photos should literally jump off your PC's display with its newer sensor and double the resolution of the older E-450. It's amusing to watch "trusted influencers" desperately repeating the full-frame sales pitch as they refuse to accept M43 image quality results while reviewing OM System cameras like the OM-5 II and the OM-3.


The E-M10 IV (SCN mode: Snow) with the M.Zuiko 12 - 45mm f4 Pro lens. The perfect weekend for my new home studio...


We know that OM System does not have entry-level cameras. Some would like us to think the OM-5 II is an entry-level camera, while knowing the E-M10 IV and E-P7 are more appropriate candidates. The OM System OM-5 II is simply a repackaged pro-level E-M1 III. A slightly improved and rebranded E-P7 and E-M10 IV have the potential to be great upgrade options for used compact owners.


One of my older home studio variations. What does your favorite home studio configuration look like?


It was a process to create a working home studio layout for my future needs. For example, you will see a different studio configuration in each of my images. Study my new studio layout below and how it gives me more control as I plan and frame my shots. Many of you will spot improvements I could consider while viewing my photos. What would you like to see from a new product studio?

You will find several similarities to modern AI and editing trends as you study my included photos. For example, those photos taken with a studio light pointing down are typically flat or two-dimensional. Experienced photographers develop a so-called photographer's eye, which helps them to use optimum camera angles and the right mix of natural-flowing highs, midtones, and shadows. AI masking and AI-generated images often fail to preserve these critical three-dimensional elements.



Secondhand cameras are one of the more exciting ways to rediscover and reconnect with photography and older Olympus cameras. It's a simple process of highlighting digital photography pioneers and the unique digital features they designed for older and modern digital cameras. While it's challenging to sell older DSLRs in 2026, I found they are excellent when sharing our passion for digital photography with the next generation of photographers. One such example is the E-450 from 2009.



I have bought only a few new cameras and accessories over the years. I also saved because I rotate the camera gear I use for articles and learning purposes. For example, I've been testing those popular "everyone agrees" claims promoters use when pushing better image quality. I continue to disagree with everyone after studying the test results from a carefully selected group of used cameras. I sold most of these tested cameras, improved my home studio, and saved the change...



The Olympus E-450 is an exciting DSLR from 2009. Many question the relevance of used mirrorless and older DSLR cameras. My experience rediscovering DSLRs like the E-3, E-450, E-30, and the Canon 6D II was surprisingly positive. A personal experience makes it harder to trust social media influencers making negative comments about used or micro four-thirds (M43) cameras.


The E-M5 III, M.Zuiko 25mm f1.8, Rotolight Illuminator, and the Olympus FL900 in RC mode. Is this a possible option?


Changing from an off-the-shelf home studio to a completely different studio configuration was a game changer. The entire room is now a potential product studio. It does take a little planning to set it up for different product shoots. Product photography seems to quickly become complex but is also very rewarding. See this video from the Tin House Studio in the UK. It wouldn't surprise me if features like high-resolution mode and focus stacking benefit M43 product photographers.



The TruePic image processor, Workspace, and a gray card is a winning combo.


The deeper depth-of-field (DOF) advantage of M43 cameras is a huge plus for product photographers. Another M43 advantage is lower ISOs at equivalent apertures. It simply means M43 cameras need lower ISOs at equivalent apertures or the same DOF as FF cameras. In other words, FF photographers will select an aperture of F11, and M43 photographers F5.6 for an equivalent or matching DOF. Micro four-thirds cameras therefore have a 2X advantage over FF cameras for landscape, macro, wildlife, or product photography. That also means lower ISOs or 2X less noise at an equivalent DOF. The SNR will improve because a lower ISO means more reflected light exposing the sensor...

See this article for more on the ISO-to-SNR ratio.


This is my 3-studio light configuration with my EM-1 III and OM Capture.


I coudn't find much on social media about product photography with Olympus or OM System. Marketers like to categorize cameras for wildlife, landscape, sport, and studio photography. I don't think hobby photographers benefit much from anything marketers label as appropriate. The above image shows a home studio scene with my Olympus E-M1 III, Macbook Pro, and OM Capture. Not all Olympus or OM System cameras are compatible with OM Capture. Surprisingly, the E-M5 II is on the list.


The E-M1 III with the 12 - 40mm f2.8 pro lens. (ISO800, f2.8, 1/60) This image benefitted from the deeper M43 DOF and ISO to SNR ratio.


Taken with the Olympus E-450 and the Zuiko 50mm f2 macro lens. (ISO200, f5.0, 1/2)


OM System OM-5 with the M.Zuiko12-45mm f4 lens. I used Workspace to process this "detailed" high-res RAW file.


Taken with the Olympus E-450 and the Zuiko 50mm f2 macro lens. (ISO100, f4.5, 1/2)


This was a quick illustration with more creative ideas for the future...


Olympus E-M1 III with the amazing M.Zuiko 12 - 40mm f2.8 Pro lens. (ISO800, f2.8, 1/50)


Taken with the Olympus E-450 and the Zuiko 50mm f2 macro lens and a studio light pointing down. (ISO400, f5.0, 1/50)


Taken with the E-M5 III and the M.Zuiko 25mm f1.8 lens. (ISO800, f3.5, 1/60)


OM System OM-3 and the M.Zuiko 25mm f1.8 lens. (ISO3200, f3.5, 1/125, Workspace AI noise reduction)


Taken with the Olympus E-450 and the Zuiko 50mm f2 macro lens. (ISO100, f4.5, 1/5)


Taken with the Olympus E-450 and the Zuiko 50mm f2 macro lens. (ISO100, f5, 1/6)


OM System OM-5 with the M.Zuiko 12-45mm f4 lens. Workspace, High-res shot, and Monochrome profile.


Taken with the Olympus E-450 and the 50mm f2 Zuiko macro lens. (ISO100, f4.5, 1/1.6)


Taken with the Olympus E-450 and the Zuiko 50mm f2 macro lens. (ISO100, f4.5, 1/2)


Taken with the E-450 and the Zuiko 50mm f2 macro lens and a studio light pointing down. (ISO400, f3.5, 1/50)


Taken with the Olympus E450 and the Zuiko 50mm f2 macro lens. (ISO100, f4.5, 1/2)


Taken with the Olympus E-450 and the Zuiko 50mm f2 macro lens. (ISO200, f5.0, 1/1.6)


Taken with the Olympus E-450 and the Zuiko 50mm f2 macro lens. (ISO100, f4, 1/2)


Taken with the E-450 and the Zuiko 50mm f2 lens and a studio light pointing down. How did I switch on the motorcar's lights?


VideoPic Blog Comments

Please add any comments to this article here.