Image Editing with Workspace

Last Update:- 30th May 2023

1. Introduction

Does your photography session end at the PC Workstation or Photo Shoot? This article discusses the PC Workstation option and the practical aspects of having the Enhanced Raw Format and Workspace. For example, most M43 photographers don't see any difference between Workspace and other commercially available Raw Editors (Converters) like Lightroom or PhotoLab.

I also discussed the Enhanced Raw Format in a previous article.

For example, Olympus and OMDS use the same "Advanced Raw Processing" terminology in their press releases. For more info about these Workspace descriptions, see the page here. I also keep a basic timeline of all the Workspace updates and my comments in this link.

The best way to benefit from Workspace is to include it in your photography workflow. You will discover it's not just another raw converter the more you work with Workspace. Workspace becomes an extension of your photography experience with Olympus cameras when you convert your Enhanced Raw Files in Workspace and edit the 16-bit Tiff files in Photoshop.

Why 16-bit Tiff files? See the 1st chapter discussing Dynamic Range in this e-book.

We will discuss the following:-

1. Introduction
2. Why are Workspace and the Enhance Raw Format different?
3. Who benefits most from using the Enhanced Raw Format?
4. My preferred Olympus camera settings for Workspace
5. How does one edit Enhanced Raw Files with Workspace?
6. Finally, I added a short video at the end of this article
7. Conclusion

Olympus EM10 II with 12-50mm EZ Lens - Enhanced Raw File converted in Workspace and edited with Photoshop.

2. Why are Workspace and the Enhanced Raw Format different?

Workspace and the Enhanced Raw Format are unique because they use the same Image Processing as the camera. This is why it's possible to end your photography sessions in Workspace. We can review camera settings like sharpness, contrast, or saturation with WS. It is also interesting to simulate the camera Live View display via WS and the Enhanced Raw Format on a PC display. 

What is a typical workflow for Workspace? There is no difference between finalizing your image in the Olympus camera or Workspace. We would typically open an Enhanced Raw File, activate the camera settings, and adjust the camera settings in Workspace. 

The most exciting part is the ability to review our camera settings in Workspace. Another exciting aspect is PC RAW mode. It links Workspace to the camera's Image Processor. In fact, Workspace V2 offers an added benefit because it enables the OM-1 photographer to use the standard Workspace Editing panel in PC RAW mode. This is, unfortunately, only applicable to the OM-1.

The Enhanced Raw Format is the main difference between Workspace and commercially available Raw editors like Lightroom and PhotoLab. The same editing panel is used on raw and jpeg files in WS. The only change is the differences between Enhanced Raw and Jpeg files. Olympus photographers benefit most from using both the raw + jpeg options. (see my video further down)

Like anything else, Workspace improves over time and experience. I reached the point of consistently getting better results with my Enhanced Raw Files and Workspace. This also applies to the 16-bit Tiff files I use in Photoshop. Workspace is much better at converting Olympus raw files, and Photoshop is excellent with the converted 16-bit Tiff files...

Below is an example of the differences between raw and jpeg files. The Enhanced Raw Format has more editing options, and it's possible to simulate Live View in Workspace. This ability to have the equivalent of a Live View display with Workspace does not apply to jpeg files. 

The same Workspace Editing Panel is used on jpegs and raw files, but the unique link between the Enhanced Raw Format and the Olympus Image Processor does NOT apply to jpegs. This is why it is possible to use Workspace ART filters and Color Profiles on the jpegs from another brand. In other words, Workspace is just another image editor for jpegs.

3. Who benefits most from using the Enhanced Raw Format?

Reflected light and the ability to work with light are basic skills all photographers should have. Light or illumination is the key to managing your exposure and image sensor performance. Light is crucial for award-winning pictures and determines if the image is flat or multi-dimensional. 

Anyone who says we don't need a tripod or flash should return to basics. Even if we don't need the best image quality, light is the one thing that makes a difference. The basics of mastering Light, Workspace, and the Camera are reasons photographers are better today...

E-P7 with 25mm f1.8 lens - The 2 Enhanced Raw Files were edited in WS - The difference is Auto Graduation.

Thorsten von Overgaard is an exciting example of an inspiring photographer. Even though I do not own a Leica, my Pen F makes me think... I appreciate the creative freedom with my Pen F, the Enhanced Raw Format, Workspace, and Light when editing 16-bit Tiff files in Photoshop.

4. My preferred camera settings for Workspace

Some photographers adjust the saturation, sharpness, and contrast with the camera to correct the camera's "color science." It reminds me of Sony's A7 cameras. Olympus cameras have more advanced color functions, and most of these camera settings are available in Workspace. It's now possible to tweak your camera settings in the comfort of your home with a large PC screen and Workspace.

Years back, when I started editing, we learned that adjusting sharpness, contrast, and saturation is not the best way of editing images. A better way of editing is to use a histogram (Curves). I accepted that and focussed on Curves with Photoshop. Olympus has two plus a "half" curve equivalent in the camera and Workspace, the "highlights/shadows" sliders, Graduation, and Tone Curves.

Olympus EM10 III with 14-42mm kit lens - Enhanced Raw File converted in WS and edited in PS.

A better way of sharpening images is the Unsharp Mask function. You can safely start with an Amount of 44 and a Radius of 1.3 while developing your sharpening skills. Image sharpening is a simple process of adding contrast to the contrast areas in the image. You could also use a basic S-Curve in Tone Curves or the highlight and shadow sliders in your camera or Workspace...

One of the most critical decisions is having the same color space for the camera and Workspace. I simply use Adobe RGB for all my software and devices. That means the camera Live View display is the same as my Workspace Live View Display. I only convert my images during my final adjustments to SRGB for posting them on the web or CYM for printing.  

Olympus EM5 with 12-50mm, ISO800, f4.0, 1/6Sec (Handheld) - fully edited in Workspace.

Why do I focus on photography and not my camera settings? The reason is simple, you need to know what is possible in Workspace and what is possible when photographing. For example, you cannot re-adjust your exposure settings (aperture and shutter speed) in Workspace, but you can select a different Picture Mode in Workspace. This knowledge helps us to plan our critical camera settings while photographing versus what we can tweak with Workspace.

For example, while out photographing, focus on your exposure settings. You can always do any final exposure compensation settings in WS. Focus on your inspiration, exposure strategy, direction and quality of light, and having the best viewing or picture angle when you photograph.

It's good to keep a grey card or Spider Cube with you. Place them in the scene and do a few test shots with different angles. Manual Exposure Mode is the best way to master your exposure settings. For example, work with the direction of light and various light sources. The challenge with Manual Exposure Mode is the Exif data does not show any "exposure compensation" settings. If this is a problem, use Aperture Priority with exposure compensation.

Olympus EM1 III with 12-200mm Lens - The Enhanced Raw File was converted with WS.

Why is it important to know if you used exposure compensation? One would correct the exposure compensation settings in Workspace to ensure the correct 18% gray or color values.

Here are my recommended camera settings for Aperture or Shutter Priority Modes:-

• Always apply the ISO manually (Manual or Aperture or Shutter priority)
• Do not adjust the sharpness, contrast, or saturation sliders in the camera
• Always use the jpeg + raw option in your camera (Enhanced Raw files)
• Use Exposure Compensation to manage the exposure mix of the camera
• Always use a fixed ISO when your goal is a fully saturated image sensor
• The focus of using these settings is maximum tonal/image data, not creativity
• If your focus is a final in-camera jpeg, then these suggestions will change
• If your goal is a final image in Workspace, then use the Enhance Raw Format
• We can "simulate" the jpeg in WS and select our best camera settings in WS

Olympus EM5 with 12-50mm lens - ISO800, f4.0, 1/3 sec (handheld on a rail) - Raw File edited in Workspace

A welcome aspect of Workspace and the Enhanced Raw format is how we determine the best camera settings for our unique photography styles. This is especially applicable to jpegs. Workspace offers the best environment with large PC screens to help us fine-tune our camera settings.

5. How to edit your images in Workspace

We are not discussing Workspace features like hotkeys, button functions, or how to re-arrange the editing windows. It's good to take a few minutes and familiarize yourself with WS. You will find the User Manual in the Help Menu. We will focus on standard and enhanced editing functions.

EM10 III with 12-45mm f4 Pro lens - A good camera for Workspace (Color Creator) and Photoshop.

Workspace V2 is slower on my older Macs. I saw this on my older MacBook Pro and iMac from 2014/15. My Macbook is the basic version, and my iMac is well-specified for 2014. The iMac performs well but is slower with V2. Go to my WS tips page for more... 

See the diagram below. It summarises what we discussed in this article. Any computational or AI functions should be part of a separate discussion. The same applies to downloading or importing images to WS or managing and rating your image collection.

Figure 1

The best decision you can make is to study Olympus Software Applications like Workspace and OI. Share. Trust the Olympus Developing and Engineering Teams and the fact that they compete with the best in the industry. Ignore forums, camera reviews, and YouTube with all the undisclosed promotions on these platforms. Trust your own talent and experience with Olympus. For example, photography forums will never admit that the 14-42mm kit lens is an above-average performer. The same is true for the 9-18mm, the 14-150mm, the 12-200mm, and ALL the f1.8 compact lenses.

Olympus 14-42mm f3.5 - 5.6 R II Kit Lens

Workspace is a fully-featured image editor with all the advanced features of Olympus cameras. While not as powerful as Photoshop, the editing features of Workspace are the same as the camera and a good editing solution for Olympus photographers. Workspace is one of the best image editors for those new to editing. The main reason is the similarities between Workspace and the camera.

It's good to start editing with Workspace because it offers similar editing features as the more advanced editors like Photoshop. It's possible to export your Workspace images to Photoshop for more advanced image editing. This makes any editing transition simpler from Workspace to Photoshop.

Figure 2

How to activate Live View in Workspace? None of the camera settings are "live" when you open your Enhanced Raw File in Workspace. All the camera settings are available but have to be activated. Live View is only active when all the camera settings are selected in Workspace. The above illustration shows the process of selecting and activating your camera settings. The camera jpeg or Live View image is displayed when all the camera settings are active.

Olympus E-P7 with 9-18mm f4 lens - Great lens for creative effects - Edited with WS and PS.

Any editing steps discussed in this article reflect my own editing style. I have been using WS from the first day it was launched, and I like to start by activating my raw file or camera settings. See the above graphic. This allows me to sit back and inspect the image in Live View mode. It is good to take a few minutes and study the image before making any adjustments.

These are the steps I follow when I am editing an Enhanced RAW File:-

• I first activate (select) all my camera settings in Workspace
• I use a +2/6EV exposure shift with all my Olympus cameras
• Correct the exposure shift with a -1/3EV exposure compensation
• This will reset the image colors or neutral grey values to 18%
• I mostly use the "Low" option for the iEnhance Picture Mode
• The Highlight/Shadow sliders open shadows and pull back highlights
• Use the mid-tones slider to adjust the brightness of the image
• Use the Tone Curve slider for older cameras with no mid-tone slider
• You could use an S-Curve in the Tone Curve section to add contrast
• Use the Dehaze and Clarity slider to better define the sky or clouds
• I do not sharpen my images in Workspace - I prefer Photoshop...
• I use the RGB color space, and it's critical to activate it in WS
• I prefer the "Low" option for the Noise Filter in the camera or WS
• I never use the False Color Suppression in the WS Noise Filter
• I very seldom use any of the other noise filters in my camera or WS
• When I am done, I transfer the 16-bit Tiff file to Photoshop...

Olympus E-P7 with 9-18mm f4 lens - The Enhanced Raw File was converted with Workspace.

I typically use a mix of highlights & shadows settings or gradation to determine the final brightness of my images in Workspace. The next step is white balance. There are more ways of selecting your White Balance. One is to leave the WB in Auto or to use the daylight, clouds, or other WB presents. Another option is to select a reference point in the image with the custom WB or Grey Pointer. It can be a gray card in the image or any white surface. 

Don't confuse yourself with image brightness and the correct neutral (18%) grey value. Follow the steps below to optimize your image quality and color:-

1. Determine your neutral grey exposure settings with the camera exposure meter.
2. The final exposure settings will include ETTR, WB, and exposure-compensation
3. The 1st WS step is to set back the exposure compensation for the correct exposure.
4. The next step is to select the appropriate White Balance for the image and WS.
5. The final image (exposure) is now ready for the raw conversion steps in WS
6. For example, any creative brightness tweaks happen from this point onward

It's OK to have a personal style when selecting the white balance for the image. I prefer white areas in shadow areas or the cement between bricks. Your WB point choice represents your preferred image style and look. There are no rules for setting your WB.

Figure 3.

How should I edit my images in Workspace? Image editing is a series of minor adjustments until the image mirrors the photographer's impression of the original scene. There are no rights or wrongs when editing an image. There are probably 3 types of image editing styles for WS:-

1. Casual image editing (nothing big and small steps at a time)
2. Creative image editing (various options like ART filters & PS)
3. Customer contracts (this requires advanced editing in WS & PS)

This article focuses on casual and creative image editing. See my fully customized editing panel in Figure 2. The different editing panels below are from this customized editing panel. I marked each editing step in the illustration below (figure 4). The opening and exporting of your images happen in A and E. Steps B, C, and D are discussed in more detail in the video below. 

Olympus E-P7 with 9-18mm f4 lens - The Enhanced Raw File was converted with Workspace.

The main editing sequence in Figure 4 consists of a step-by-step editing sequence. Steps B and D are used in casual editing, and B, C, and D for creative editing. None of the camera settings are active when you open the Enhanced Raw File. What's displayed on the PC screen is pure raw data. You first need to activate Live View in Workspace. See Figure 3 for more info. I grouped all the Standard Camera settings in Step B to simplify them.

The same applies to any Creative functions. You will activate your creative settings in Step C to see them in Live View. Workspace shows you which options were used in the camera. The only tricky one is the Color Creator. The Color Creator is the final option in the Picture Mode drop-down menu in Step 3. The best way to check if you used the Color Creator is to study your Jpeg Exif data.

Figure 4.

Image editing starts when you analyze the Live View image in Workspace. You will have a good feel for your final image and what you like to change or update. It's important because it's part of your editing/creative process when preparing your final images. 

I typically prepare notes on what I like to achieve with the Live View image in Workspace. Image editing is a simple step-by-step sequence starting at Step A and finishing with Step E.

Workspace is one of the best image editors for those new to image editing. In fact, Workspace quickly becomes powerful the more you use it. For example, I am talking about taking the time or the fact that image editing is a process. What about those cases where speed is critical? Well, that is also possible in Workspace. You would typically take the time to edit the first image and then copy and paste the settings to the remaining images in the sequence.

6. A short video on Workspace and the Enhanced Raw Format

The above video explains the different sections discussed in this article. I also show a few basic editing steps. It is good to know that image editing in Workspace is as simple as adding an S-Curve, selecting a new picture mode, or changing the Noise Reduction from Standard to Low. Image editing in Workspace does not have to be a big thing.

7. Conclusion

I did something I wouldn't normally do when I updated Workspace to version 2. I typically wait a while to safeguard myself and my PC. My concern is speed. The upgrade to Workspace V2 was obviously done to support the new OM-1 and newer PCs.

The previous version of Workspace (V1.5) is a safe option if you don't use the M1 Macbook, or use the EM1 III, or any other Olympus camera. Its fast and older PCs generally support Workspace V1.5 without any issues.

Olympus EM10 III with 14-42mm kit lens - Enhanced Raw File converted in WS and edited in PS

The cost-effective and tested PC is the entry-level Macbook Pro with the M1 processor (I added the 16GB option to mine). If you need the new sequential shooting group display, focus sorting feature, or the AI noise reduction feature of V2, then you need something like the new M1 CPU.

Long-term Olympus users are familiar with Olympus Viewer 3. Workspace is the improved version of Viewer 3. It offers a better interface for the Enhanced Raw format. I kept a copy of Viewer 3 on my iMac and continue to use it. For example, it's a pity that Olympus removed the Gamma function from Workspace. A nice benefit of Viewer 3 is how it displays the camera settings (Enhanced Raw data) in the editing panel.

See the camera settings in the Enhanced Raw File.

What is the Gamma function? Image sensors are linear recording devices. Editing software like Workspace or Photoshop overlays a standard display profile to the raw data. The Gamma slider allows us to adapt or fine-tune this display profile.

Pen F + 60mm Marco - High Resolution 80MP (10368x7776) - Edited in OV3 /Changed the Gamma profile)

Have fun editing your images...

Siegfried

The new OM-1 Stacked BSI with Quad Pixel AF...

Last updated:- 22nd January 2023

Introduction.

We see the main areas improving when we study the image sensor and how scientists spend R&D dollars. That said, it's good to focus on all these components:-

• Speed (new generation sensors are faster)
• Resolution (the trend is to have more megapixels)
• Sensitivity (Optical & Quantum efficiency - very important)
• Firmware (Sensor and camera CPUs - Image Processors are crucial)
• Sensor Noise Floor (a smaller noise floor with each new generation)

The video discusses the new OM-1 image sensor and why it's a critical development for Micro Four Thirds. We see how Olympus photographers benefited from the OM-1 sensor improvements. We also take a closer look at the new Stacked BSI Image Sensor and why the step to BSI technology.

Camera reviewers never discuss the losses associated with more pixels. For example, any improvements in sensor sensitivity, firmware, or image processing are used to offset the losses from adding more and smaller pixels. OMDS did the opposite and kept the OM-1 resolution the same at 20MP. This pixel count and the new BSI sensor technology made it possible to improve the OM-1 noise performance with up to +2EV and the DR with +1EV. The BSI sensitivity also improved the OM-1's ability to capture detail. These are the benefits of moving from a MOV CMOS to a BSI CMOS sensor.

As seen in the video, it's technically possible to explain why the BSI sensor is better. Looking for similar examples, study the Sony A7 II and A7 III. Like the EM1 and the OM-1, the A7 II / III have the same sensor size and resolution. Like OMDS, Sony also achieved the "standard" BSI noise improvements of +1.5EV and the DR increase of +1EV with the A7 III. 

Olympus EM1 III with 12-200mm lens and Pro Capture function.

In the following example, Sony used the improvements to the new A7 IV image sensor to offset the losses of adding 40% more megapixels. No matter how you view it, pixels come at a price. In other words, except for the additional pixels, the A7 IV image quality stayed similar to the A7 III. This is an example of how much sensors improve from one generation to the next...

It is crucial to challenge those saying stacked BSI sensors have no benefits. Ask for the same detailed information as in this short article and video. It became so easy to randomly drop incorrect statements on social media.

The R&D on the new image sensor started below the surface. Pixels capture Photons, and pixels are the link to Sensor Sensitivity. For example, scientists will target the noise floor of the sensor, and they will focus on Optical and Quantum Efficiency. The stacked configuration improves the operation and speed of both pixels and the image sensor.

Olympus EM1 III with the 12-200mm lens and the Pro Capture function.

Stacked BSI Live MOS sensor with Quad Pixel AF

A big thank you to the forum poster who posted positive feedback on my OM-1 video. Another forum poster asked for information on the "Quad Bayer AF" solution. The information in my video is enough to help photographers understand the Stacked BSI sensor. Obviously, some photographers like to have more, and that is good.

The source is OMDS                   

It is always better to rely on information from manufacturers. For example, see the OM-1 press release further down. You will see OMDS talking about their Cross Quad Pixel AF solution. This is something we can research. Having done that, we see the first Quad Pixel AF solution came from Canon. The Quad Pixel AF is the next level up to the older Canon Dual Pixel AF solution. Dual Pixel AF is similar to the Standard CMOS technology Canon has been using for years.

It could be that OMDS decided to select a new sensor manufacturer to take this new Stacked BSI - Quad Pixel AF sensor with the more powerful Truepic X CPU to the next level. The main benefits of the Cross Quad Pixel AF sensor are speed, accuracy, and a 4D-type AF capability. This improves the Uni-Directional Dual Pixel AF solution from Canon with all its limitations.

3 aspects of the new OM-1 sensor should be discussed more:-

1. Pixels capture Photons, and it is possible to improve image sensors...
2. There is so much more to discover about this amazing new image sensor
3. We are also seeing more excellent images and feedback from OM-1 users

The official OM-1 news release...

Interesting additional reading:-

- Quad Bayer Sensors - what are they and what are they not - link

- Bringing Backside Illumination to high-speed applications - link

- Interesting explanation of the Quad Bayer section and sensors - link

- Also see this info on Wikipedia (Fuji, Bayer, Quad Bayer, and more) - link

- Comparison between front, and back-illuminated sensors - link

- One more site with detail on the sensor - link

- See this discussion on image quality on DPReview - link

- Interesting book if you like to study more - link

- See the Sony A7 III description of the BSI improvements - link

- Here are some OM-1 test images for download from Image Resource - link

- Another article discussing OMDS introducing the Quad Pixel AF solution - link

- Peta Pixel discussing the Quad Pixel AF tech with a typical Canon video - link

- One of the OM-Systems  OM-1 launch videos - one of the better ones - link

- OM-1 Review, a great overview from an existing Olympus photographer - link

- "Size and capture" theory & counter-marketing. Do you trust undisclosed promotions? - link

Is the "Size and Capture" theory too basic?

Last updated:- 29th February 2024

Introduction.

I support traditional science and marketing values. That means accurate and mathematically correct data has priority over commercial preferences. I studied electrical engineering, worked as a project engineer, and held several marketing positions in my working career. My marketing training started at a global manufacturer of industrial automation solutions and electrical equipment, and my interest in consumer behavior developed with product launches, the first digital calculator, the original XT PC, automation solutions, large project sales, and the photography segment.

Please study my ISO Low, ISO100, and ISO64 series. My focus in this discussion is luminance (reflected light). We will review the image signal path from the subject to the sensor because our ability to optimally capture reflected light (image signal) depends on the sensitivity (efficiency) of the image sensor and our ability to manage the digital image-taking process. This article illustrates why many photographers question those promoting the oversimplified "size and capture" theory...

Study this article discussing the 7 points each photographer should know...

What are the main technical differences between sensors? We know sensor sensitivity is the sum of the optical and quantum efficiencies of the image sensor. Pixel area (size) influences these optical and quantum efficiencies. The visible impact that pixel area has on quantum and optical efficiency is a good question? For example, the Canon 6D and Olympus Pen-F are 20MP cameras. The pixel area on the 6D is 248% larger than the Pen F. How much does this benefit the Canon's image quality, and what should one look for? One option is the DxOMark IQ database, and the practical option is shadow details. We also know each image sensor has a native noise floor that influences our IQ. The pixel's effective photon-sensitive area also changes for BSI, Live MOS, and Standard CMOS sensors...

The technical characteristics of image sensors are, therefore, unique. The design specs of each image sensor determine its technical characteristics and NOT its physical size. These characteristics include the saturation level, dynamic range, noise floor, and sensitivity of each sensor.

What is the "size and capture" theory? The best place to learn more about this theory is the well-known "size and capture" authority DPReview. Their camera reviews repeatedly explain the benefits of large sensors capturing more light than crop sensors. The "size and capture" theory predominantly applies to sensors smaller than full-frame sensors. It does not equally apply to FF and MF cameras. These are the benefits you should expect from your new FF (large sensor) camera:

• They capture more light...
• Have better image quality...
• Almost no image noise...
• Much better low-light IQ...
• DR with No highlight clipping...
• Better Auto-focus & video...
• The magical FF look...
• Better background blur...
• More and bigger bokeh...
• The joy of perfect IQ...

Interestingly, "Size and capture" theorists never mention the benefits of saturating the image sensor or having a higher SNR. They only discuss "Shot Noise" and never the sensor's Noise Floor. For example, instead of explaining the benefits of saturating the sensor, they use "ISO Invariance" to discuss the benefits of using a higher SNR. ISO Invariance and sensor size are regarded as magical treats...

This article discusses the 4 essentials that will improve your image quality in 2024...

Do you think the "size and capture" theory is oversimplified..?

Sony improved the Quantum and Optical efficiencies (BSI architecture), lowered the noise floor (fewer pixels), and upped the readout speed.

Here are the points we are reviewing in this article:-

1. A better way of doing photography
2. Testing the Pen F and the A7S III
3. A quick review of the test results?
4. A few additional thoughts
5. Conclusion

1. A better way of doing digital photography

The following hearsay theories/trends are associated with the "Size and capture" fanboys:

• Your ISO function adjusts the sensor's sensitivity
• Never use ETTR at higher ISOs because the DR is less
• You don't need a flash because FF cameras have no noise
• They never use a tripod because new cameras have IBIS
• They need high-resolution cameras because they CROP
• They always argue while using the analog exposure triangle
• They depend 110% on FF sensors, AI, and the perfect AF
• Crop sensor lenses suffer from high levels of diffraction...
• They always hope for something new to have more IQ

Take a moment and study the exposure formula...

Everything starts by mastering the image sensor (Fig 1) and exposure. We control 4 of the variables in the Exposure Formula. They are:

• N - The aperture or f-stop
• t - The Shutter speed
• S - ISO setting (image brightness)
• L - Avg. scene luminance (illumination or a flash)

Digital photographers use these 4 variables to expose (saturate) the image sensor or to create optical effects like background blur or bokeh. This is why experienced photographers have a flash or tripod. Some of the most creative photography is done with artificial lighting like LED panels or a flash.

Reliable information digital photographers can trust. It all starts by walking away from "size and capture" fanboys. For example, focus on the following to master your image sensor:

• Sensor pixel diameter influences sensitivity - fewer pixels are more sensitive
• Higher pixel sensitivity improves the sensor's ability to capture shadow details
• Each image sensor has a unique noise floor (noise floor size and types - Fig 1)
• More megapixels means adding noise to the Noise Floor. (pixel control circuits)
• There are two forms of noise. Shot noise and the sensor's Noise floor (Fig 1)
• When calibrating the sensor, the sensor's sensitivity is fixed/set at the factory
• High-sensitivity sensors mean less high ISO noise (low calibration multiplier)
• High-sensitivity sensors typically have a higher saturation point plus DR
• The old analog exposure triangle is not the best choice for digital cameras

Those saying we don't need knowledge or a flash, see this video on flash photography - link.

Olympus E-P7, w the FL300 flash, w 17mm f1.8 lens - ISO200, f4.0, 1/50th.

A quick way of improving your family photos is to consider the subject, illumination (flash), and the luminance reaching the sensor. The secret is more luminance on the sensor and a flash to illuminate and freeze the subject. In fact, keep an Olympus FL-300R flash or the standard OMD flash in your bag. Try the following camera settings for your next family event. Use Manual Exposure Mode with a shutter speed of 1/125th and an aperture of F4.0. Use ISO500 and set the exposure compensation for your flash between 0 and -0.7EV. Your flash is an exposure variable to illuminate the subject. You don't need the best flash/tripod. A bean bag with the clip-on flash or FL300R is enough.

The focus on Reflected Light is a different way of planning and doing digital photography? This is how photographers used to capture photos before the days of AI and Photoshop. Thinking about it, the only new thing is digital photography and learning how to optimize your image sensor.

See this article discussing the 7 points each digital photographer should know...

Figure 1. This is the most critical illustration photographers should study to master image sensors.

2. Why test extremes like the Sony A7 III and Olympus Pen F?

Because the difference between these 2 sensors is BIG? What happens when we underexpose the shadows while correctly exposing the mid-tones to highlights? Will "size and capture" fanboys claim it's all about DR, sensor size, and smaller sensors capturing less light, or are there technical reasons why scientists investing their time and energy to design more sensitive sensors? Are image sensors as basic as "size," or is there a technical explanation for sensor performance?

My challenge was to underexpose part of the subject and manage the performance of the Image Sensor.

I had the opportunity to test my own advice. My son was so kind as to lend me his A7S III for one day. What simple test could I do to push these two image sensors in one day? I decided to use my Pen F with the A7S III. I wanted to see if the SNR of each sensor changes when part of the subject is in the shadows. Will this prove that all image sensors have a noise floor and the SNR is lower in the shadows? The next step was to create a semi-controlled space to record these images.

A quick reminder:- Your ISO setting does not create noise. The ISO setting amplifies the image signal and the existing noise floor of the image sensor. The sensitivity of your image sensor and the SNR at each exposure will determine how much visible noise you see in your final image.

That said, I wanted to test if my thinking process is correct, or should I repent and forever accept the "Size and Capture" theory and focus on that ONE variable, SIZE..?

3. Can we explain these results?

I have no doubt that the Sony A7S III is a fantastic camera. My son uses the Sony A7S III, his Sony A1, and RED video cameras professionally. His customers are happy with his work. My own experience with the A7S III is only positive. The Sony A7S III is a unique camera aimed at videographers.

The same is true for the Olympus Pen F. Against all odds, it has a loyal following, and many new creative enthusiasts are discovering this unique camera in 2023/24. Does it mean we should compete with the newest and most popular cameras? I really do not see any value in that..?

The reason for this test is NOT which is better, or my M43 sensor is super awesome. Each image was taken in a semi-controlled space. I upped the brightness so you can study the shadows. Olympus said the differences between M43 and FF cameras are tiny. Will we see that in this test? 

The change in shadow detail between 0EV and +1EV demonstrates the changing sensor performance (saturation) between the two exposures. This level of control is only possible if you know your digital camera and how the performance of the camera/sensor works. (It is not only ETTR.)

This exercise was exciting. The SNR response is different for each camera, and the saturated and unsaturated parts of the sensor determine the final image look. "Size and capture" fanboys cannot explain these performance differences between the shadows and well-exposed areas. 

Normally (0EV) Exposed Images

The +1EV (Exposure) Images

4. A few more thoughts on the above test images

The two images below are the fully edited raw versions of the above +1EV images. The Sony A7S III has more shadow details, and it took more effort to recover the Pen F shadow details. The reason for this is the sensitivity differences between the A7S III BSI sensor and the Live MOS sensor of the Pen F. Another reason is my Pen F recorded less tonal data in the shadows (See the histogram). I purposely left these final images slightly "flat" so you can study the "recovered" shadow details. 

Here are a few final thoughts about these images:-

• Sensor technologies - LiveMOS versus BSI (Both CMOS but different architectures)
• Technical differences - 2016 to 2020 (Much development happened in these 4 years)
• Sensor Sensitivity - Sensor evolution focuses on Quantum and Optical Efficiencies...
• Sensor sensitivity - Sony selected a super high-sensitivity BSI sensor for the A7S III.
• Pixel Size - It makes a difference + the delta pixel area is the highest for this example
• Sensor Noise Floor - The A7S III sensor benefits from having a smaller noise floor
• Sensor Noise Floor - The BSI sensor + four years of R&D improved the noise & eff.

See the video I did for the OM-1 - link.

I asked the following question in a previous article. Does the sensor backplate record photons? We see the size of the backplate stayed the same while the pixel count increased with each new camera. Doesn't that mean the "size and capture" theory is hopelessly oversimplified? 

Have you ever wondered if pixel diameter is one of many variables impacting IQ?

Then what are the other variables, and shouldn't we consider them?

The image below is best viewed on an iMac or large PC screen.

Don't you think the 17mm f1.8 three-dimensional "M43 look" from my Pen F is awesome? 😉

Conclusion

Why do I think "size and capture" promoters are not serious? Simply study their articles, reviews, and comments. For example, why use Pixel Pitch when referring to the Pixel Area. Pixel pitch is generally used with LED monitors. Why call BSI sensors "stacked CMOS sensors?" Why let people think Standard CMOS sensors have a stacked or layered design? Why not call it a Stacked BSI..? 

Why argue and focus on the placement of components like A/D converters or ISO "sensitivity" when photographers benefit more from learning the correct function of these components? Why do fanboys and promoters always focus on unnecessary or fake theories like oversimplification..?

Best Regards

Siegfried