Wildlife Photography with Micro Four Thirds

Last updated:- 1st August 2023

I like the Pangolin Wildlife channel and watched several of their YouTube videos. I enjoy their photos, discussions, and the techniques they share on wildlife photography. They recently uploaded an interesting video about Micro Four Thirds and wildlife photography.

Olympus E3 with the 28mm f2.8 lens - ISO160, f2.8, 1/100 - Low light Raw file edited with PL-5 and DeepPrime NR.

The example about noise at ISO20K made me wonder how much "low light" is available at nearly 7 Stops of ISO amplification. How much of the wildlife photographer's daytime is spent in these conditions? It's also clear the Pangolin photographers support the "size and capture" theory. Will their videos benefit from a more theoretical understanding of the digital camera? For example, the ISO to SNR ratio is enough to explain the scenarios in the two videos we are reviewing.

Janine talks about noise in this video and ways to improve image quality. Except for the part saying the "ISO function adjusts the sensor's sensitivity," the remaining content is excellent. The size and capture theory is like assigning an invisible handicap to M43 photographers.

Study the additional information below:-

- This is a more recent article discussing a visit to a South African game reserve.

- See this article about background blur (information) and the examples in this video.

- See this video for more about the best camera settings for wildlife photography.

- For more about Readout Speed or warping & wobbling, watch this video

- Study this article for more on image noise and ISO amplification.

"Olympus wildlife photographers are cheating..."

I enjoyed Janine's feedback on how full-frame photographers reacted to Pro-Capture. I disagree with the 1st disadvantage listed in the video or the "size and capture" theory. Noise is NOT a function of sensor size because EACH sensor has a noise floor. The characteristics of the noise floor are linked to the sensor's design. I also think the classic "portrait" look with blurred backgrounds works only in some cases for wildlife photography. The challenge for wildlife photographers is to display the natural habitat of wild animals without overpowering the subject.

My focus is the seasoned Pangolin photographers and the experience they share. How do we combine this experience with a theoretical explanation of the digital or Micro Four Third camera?

My family and I left South Africa 20 years ago. We will always be a part of Africa. A typical bushveld scene with my E3.

How does a theoretical explanation help photographers?

Each photographer should start with these 6 points:-

• All lenses have diffraction, and it's not something photographers should fear
• Sensors are linear devices, and they record less tonal data at lower SNRs
• Saturated image sensors benefit from higher SNRs with less image noise
• Your aperture and shutter speed control the reflected light to the sensor 
• The ISO function amplifies the image signal and the sensor's noise floor
• Pixels capture photons and not the size of the backplate they are placed on

Olympus E3 with 50 - 200mm f2.8 - 3.5 lens - ISO160, f3.5, 1/3200 - Raw file edited with PhotoLab 5

We know M43 photographers benefit from a 2EV DOF advantage and the size and weight of M43 lenses. The summary below was designed for M43 wildlife photographers:-

• M43 photographers can safely use apertures between f5,6 and f8,0 (and higher)
• It's OK to target shutter speeds between 1/400 and 1/4000 (landscape to action)
• Always check your default exposure settings. (start at: ISO400-1600, f6.3, 1/2000) 
• Learn to use Shutter Priority, fixed ISO values, exposure comp, and the histogram.
• Understand the benefits of saturating the sensor or managing the SNR-to-ISO ratio.
• In most cases, M43 cameras don't need more than ISO3200. Also, use AI NR (WS)
• Why only IS=3200? Consider the advantage of having IBIS with suitable scenes.
• Planning and selecting the best time of the day is critical for wildlife photography.
• They always keep a sturdy tripod with them. IBIS does not stabilize your subject

Olympus E3 with the 50 - 200mm f2,8 - f4 Pro lens - ISO160, 1/2000, f4.0.

The above scene shows the natural habitat of wild animals. They are experts at hiding and becoming one with nature. One seldom sees them in open spaces in the bushveld or Kruger National Park. Wild animals will only go into open spaces when they drink water. I prefer the bushveld environments over the danger associated with open areas. That's why portraits with blurred backgrounds do not apply to wild animals in their natural habitat. I prefer the above image image look because it's natural. 

Andrew Goodall is one of my favorite wildlife photographers. See this video of his 2023 photo summary with many examples of excellent wildlife photos. Also, make a note of his camera settings.

Most wildlife photography is done in medium to good daylight conditions. Waterholes are popular locations. Talk to your local ranger about the photography spots you like to see. List the animals you want to photograph and when the animals drink. Master working with light and having the sun behind you. Always ask for information about sunrise and sunset safari drives and other opportunities. Another exciting destination for wildlife photography is the Etosha National Park in Namibia.

Olympus E3 with 50-200mm f2.8 - 3.5 lens - ISO160, 1/4000, f3.5 (Exposure compensation = -0.7)

Which M43 camera do you need for Wildlife Photography?

The best Mirco Four Thirds camera for wildlife photography is the one you have with you. I purposely posted these images from my older Olympus (10MP) E3. We don't need forum-approved cameras, the newest cameras, or those with the highest review ratings for wildlife photography. 

The Olympus E3 had no Subject Recognition or Eye Detection. Olympus did say the E3 had the fastest autofocus in 2009. While I enjoy technology and autofocus algorithms, wildlife photographers should know these technologies do not need to become deal breakers.

Olympus E3 with 50-200mm f2.8 - f3.5 lens - ISO160, 1/2000, f3.5, FL200mm - Raw file dited with PhotoLab 5 and PS 

Conclusion

Olympus has an excellent range of professional equipment. Pro lenses are designed for the highest levels of image quality, fast apertures, and the ability to extract fine details. These extreme levels of performance are only necessary in demanding conditions. Plan your photo sessions... 

Beginners and hobby photographers can expect excellent image quality from Standard and Premium Zuiko lenses. These are generally slower lenses, which is OK for wildlife photography. I decided to focus on three affordable solutions for those interested in wildlife photography.

Olympus E3 with 50 - 200mm f2.8 - 3.5 lens - ISO160, f2.8, 1/640 - Handheld and Raw file edited with PL5

I prefer to use Olympus lenses with Olympus cameras and Panasonic lenses with Panasonic. These two manufacturers use vastly different autofocus systems. You will get the highest levels of compatibility when combining Olympus lenses with Olympus cameras. I have some lenses from Panasonic, like the Leica 25mm f1.4 and the Lumix 35 - 100mm f2.8...

Did you see the unique "bokeh" type backgrounds from the original Olympus Pro 50-200mm lens? There's something special about the original version of this lens. The newer version has a smoother background blur. I used both and like the older version for its character. While the M.Zuiko 12-200mm backgrounds are more refined, its "character" resembles that of the older 50-200mm lens.

Olympus E3 with 50-200mm f2_8 - 3_5 lens - ISO160, f3.5, 1/500 - Edited with PhotoLab 5.

Let's start with a few M.Zuiko Digital Lenses:-

• 40 - 150mm f4 - f5.6 (This is a good lens and perfect for smaller game parks)
• 14 - 150mm f4 - f5.6 (This multi-purpose lens works for smaller game parks.)
• 12 - 200mm f3.5 - f6.3 (An excellent lens and perfect for Kruger National Park)
• 75 - 300mm f5.6 - f6.7 (It's a good lens for large parks like Etosha National Park)
• 100 - 400mm f5 - f6.3 (I never used this lens. It should work for large game parks)

These are more cost-effective lenses for the beginner and the semi-advanced photographer. They offer excellent image quality with cameras like the EM10 II/III, EM5 II/III, and EM1 I/II/III.

Smaller Bush Lodges have several opportunities for casual bird and wildlife photographers. South Africa has many of these smaller reserves with short hiking routes. These parks do not have the Big Five and are perfect for those enjoying nature, birding, and wildlife photography.

Olympus E3 with 50 - 200mm f2.8 to f3.5 lens - ISO160, f3.5, 1/500 - Raw file edited in PhotLab 5

Which secondhand Olympus cameras are best for wildlife photography?

• The EM1 II is a great wildlife camera. They are affordable and offer many Pro features.
• The EM1 III is a more advanced camera. They are also more expensive secondhand.
• The EM5 II, the EM5 III, and the EM10 II-IV are affordable and excellent cameras.
• I recently bought a used EM1 MKI and am blown away by this excellent camera.

Here are my 3 proposals with one bonus camera:

1. EM1 II with the 100-400mm f5-f6.3 lens (Also consider the 75-300mm or 12-200mm)
2. EM5 III with the 75-300mm or the 12-200mm lens
3. The EM5 II with the 14-150mm f4-f5.6 II lens
4. The Pen F or the E-P7 with the 18mm f1.8 and the 14-150mm f4-5.6 II lens

Olympus E3 with 50 - 200mm f2.8 - 3.5 lens - ISO 160, f3.5, 1/2000 - Raw file edited in PL5

Also, consider the Olympus 40-150mm f2.8 Pro lens with the 1.4X and 2X converters. This will give you more "Pro" flexibility plus a maximum full-frame reach of 600mm at f5.6.

Wildlife, bird, and landscape photography are great fun. Take the time to walk and practice with your new zoom lens before booking a trip to a game park. Finally, nothing beats the love for nature, enthusiasm, patience, and practice with Olympus cameras.

It was fun to edit these RAW files from my Olympus E3. It's easy to react and say, a great camera as I go through my images from 2010. I sold my E3 while being happy with its performance and image quality. I can only imagine what the RAW files would be like if I knew about the ISO-to-SNR ratio. I wish every photographer gets the chance to master these basics...

Take care and God's Bless

Siegfried

Olympus E3 with 25mm f2.8 lens - ISO160, f3.5, 1/320 - Raw file edited with PhotoLab 5 and DeepPrime NR